ZENITH UNVEILS “ULTRA COLOUR” BOX SET OF 8 CHROMATICALLY CHARGED DEFY 21 MODELS
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HIGH-FREQUENCY ACROSS THE SPECTRUM: ZENITH UNVEILS “ULTRA COLOUR” BOX SET OF 8

ALTA FRECUENCIA EN TODO EL ESPECTRO: ZENITH PRESENTA UNA CAJA “ULTRA COLOR” DE 8 MODELOS DEFY 21 CON CARGA CROMÁTICA

Ya se trate de esferas de colores vibrantes en la década de 1970 o de movimientos revolucionarios terminados con tonos llamativos en sus creaciones más recientes, ZENITH nunca ha rehuído explorar los cromatismos de maneras nuevas y atrevidas.

A través del DEFY 21, el primer modelo en albergar el innovador movimiento de cronógrafo El Primero de 1/100 de segundo de ZENITH, ZENITH buscó expresar la noción de precisión de alta frecuencia a través de frecuencias de luz y colores. Esta idea cobró vida por primera vez con el DEFY 21 Ultraviolet en 2020, que estableció un nuevo código de diseño para el DEFY 21 que ZENITH ahora expresa completamente este concepto con la caja DEFY 21 Ultra Color.

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Con ocho iteraciones diferentes del DEFY 21 y limitadas a solo ocho cajas, las piezas Ultra Color están todas fabricadas en titanio liviano con acabado completamente mate, lo que permite que brille el cromatismo interno. La esfera abierta presenta contadores de cronógrafo en relieve que combinan con el tono gris de la caja, debajo de los cuales se aplican vibrantes colores metálicos en la parte menos esperada del reloj: el movimiento.a

Luminoso y transparente con un encanto casi cristalino, el conjunto Ultra Box se entrega en una caja de presentación de acrílico transparente, con un efecto iridiscente que refracta la luz para mostrar diferentes colores según el ángulo de la luz. Cada uno de los relojes está grabado en la parte posterior de la caja con un número de edición limitada de 8, y cada caja contará con relojes numerados secuencialmente del 1 al 8, en lugar de tener el mismo número para los ocho relojes en una sola caja.

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Luxury timepiece – Roger Dubui Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier “An era of Light Colour Begins”

Reloj de lujo – Roger Dubui Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier “An era of Light Color Begins”

Hiperluminiscente. Hiper-colorido. Superrendimiento: comienza una nueva era de estética deslumbrante con la llegada de la próxima generación de Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier (MB). Una de las expresiones más brillantes de la Maison hasta la fecha, el reloj es una obra de arte contemporánea que es tan vibrante durante el día como bajo la luz ultravioleta. Bienvenido al deslumbrante mundo de Roger Dubuis, donde los campos de posibilidades se reinventan para ofrecer la forma más emocionante de experimentar Hyper HorologyTM.

EL ARTE DE LA LUMINESCENCIA

Siempre superando los límites, los relojeros altamente calificados de la Maison han estado desarrollando y dominando el intrincado arte de la luminiscencia durante años. Porque en Roger Dubuis, menos nunca es más.

Reflejando un nivel inigualable de artesanía, los micro-haces de metal del calibre son tridimensionales por primera vez, tomando la forma de la estrella característica de Roger Dubuis. De color amarillo brillante y naranja durante el día, revelan su luminiscencia oculta y brillan como neón bajo la luz ultravioleta.

Pero el dominio de la luminiscencia por parte de los relojeros va más allá. Manteniendo el punto culminante en el brillo de los micro-rayos, se eligió un diamante hiperprecioso y vívidamente fluorescente para el corazón de la estrella de la firma, canalizando el ojo para admirar el trabajo abierto de la pieza bajo la luz ultravioleta. Para garantizar que el centro de atención permanezca en los microhaces, también se seleccionaron específicamente 60 diamantes no fluorescentes para adornar el bisel. Motivados por una pasión extrema, el look final demuestra su control absoluto sobre dónde aparece la fluorescencia.

LLENO DE COLOR

La Maison presenta una colección cápsula icónica que brilla con colores de moda.

Encarnando un compromiso con la inconformidad y la voluntad de explorar nuevas posibilidades creativas, Roger Dubuis se inspiró para ir más allá de su obsesión por la luz e inyectar colores divertidos en esta próxima generación de Excalibur Blacklight MB.

Entre esta colección cápsula se encuentra un reloj vestido de amarillo brillante realzado con toques de naranja vibrante. Estos aportan un equilibrio armonioso al diseño, rompiendo el efecto de un solo tono y creando un camaieu. Estos tonos vivos también crean su estética distintiva, dejando que los detalles del calibre expresivo se revelen capa por capa, como una intrincada obra de arte que se aprecia cuanto más se mira. Atrevido, atrevido, icónico: este reloj de oro blanco de 42 mm realmente deslumbra, desde su correa de caucho amarillo brillante y piel de becerro hasta sus microrayos, marcadores de hora y minutos y su estrella característica. Si lo desean, los afortunados propietarios pueden incluso optar por cambiar la correa con solo unos pocos clics para expresar un nuevo estilo de su elección, ya que está equipada con un sistema de liberación rápida e hiperversátil. Hipercontemporáneo e hiperemocionante, la última edición del Excalibur Blacklight MB lleva a Hyper HorologyTM a nuevos y brillantes niveles de expresividad.

RENDIMIENTO IMPRESIONANTE

Definiendo el delicado equilibrio entre estética y rendimiento, el reloj está equipado con el calibre RD720SQ, que tiene una mayor reserva de marcha de 72 horas. El micro-rotor y el volante también están optimizados para minimizar las vibraciones, mejorar la estabilidad y hacerlo menos sensible a los golpes. Para lograr una eficiencia y transmisión de energía aún mejores, se mejora la forma de la rueda de escape, se combina con paletas de piedra de silicio recubiertas de diamante y se completa con un nuevo lubricante. La obra maestra está acabada a mano con meticuloso cuidado y recompensada con el Poinçon de Genève, una de las certificaciones más exigentes de la alta relojería.

Limitado a 28 piezas, el Excalibur Blacklight MB es la combinación perfecta de color, luminiscencia y mecánica avanzada, alcanzando nuevos niveles de expresividad. Al compartir su pasión por la luz y la luminiscencia, Roger Dubuis destaca una nueva faceta de Hyper Horology™, una que continúa dando forma al futuro de la alta relojería de la manera más colorida posible.

Hyper e Hyper Horology son marcas comerciales de Roger Dubuis presentadas y/o registradas en la clase 14

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George Clooney and Hyun Bin Wear The OMEGA Speedmaster ’57

George Clooney and Hyun Bin Wear The OMEGA Speedmaster ’57

The actors George Clooney and Hyun Bin are taking a front seat role in the promotion of OMEGA’s new Speedmaster ’57 collection.

Perfectly complementing both sides of the famous chronograph, Clooney brings his classic style and iconic character to the campaign, yet again highlighting his long-standing connection to OMEGA. On the other hand, Hyun Bin is the rising star, with a cool and modern spirit that epitomises the Speedmaster’s constant evolution.


As the name suggests, the Speedmaster ’57 is emblematic of the original Speedmaster design, which was released in 1957 for racing car drivers and engineers on the track. As a tribute, today’s Speedmaster ’57 collection of eight new watches has been delivered with a slim style, colourful dial choices, a vintage bracelet, and an outstanding Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9906 movement – reaching the pinnacle of precision, magnetic-resistance, and performance.

Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of OMEGA, says “The Speedmaster ’57 is known for its quality and timeless charm. George Clooney and Hyun Bin are the perfect leading men to showcase these values and prove exactly how the timepiece fits with the dashing style of today.”
George Clooney is a long-time friend of OMEGA and, in many ways, both he and the Speedmaster share the same story. Both their lives began in the optimistic years of the space age, and both are known for their lasting popularity and qualities of excellence.

For this shoot, George wears the stainless steel model with a PVD blue dial (ref: 332.10.41.51.03.001). Amongst the new portraits, the actor can be seen wearing the timepiece while driving a vintage car near his home around Lake Como – a nod to the Speedmaster’s racing origins.

The South Korean actor, Hyun Bin, recently joined the OMEGA family. Exuding his typically confident and laid-back style, he was shot on location with a classic car in Korea, this time wearing a 40.5 mm stainless steel model with a black dial (ref: 332.12.41.51.01.001).

Coinciding with the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster line, the full OMEGA Speedmaster ’57 collection now includes eight new models. Along with blue and black dial models, there are also green and burgundy choices. Signature 1957 details include the brushed metallic bezel with its “Dot Over Ninety”, as well as the famous Broad Arrow hands.
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HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE

HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE

The most streamed French artist in the world, with a slew of international hits, DJ Snake is joining forces with Hublot to unveil an exclusive creation: the Big Bang DJ Snake. A watch boasting a myriad of facets, just like the talented artist who inspired it.

“To be able to wear – and also offer my fans – a watch which reflects my personality is something that has been very important to me since the start of my partnership with Hublot. I am delighted to have been able to combine my inspiration with the expertise of the fantastic watchmakers and technicians at this Swiss brand.” – DJ Snake


“DJ Snake turns everything he touches to gold! We are thrilled to have been able to channel his outstanding creativity into this new limited edition piece. The result is truly multifaceted, just like DJ Snake’s talents!” – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

DJ Snake has such a huge presence in today’s musical landscape that he needs no introduction. The electronic music star first came to public attention with the track “Turn Down For What”, released in 2013. Since then, the hits have racked up: “Lean On”, “Loco Contigo”, “Let Me Love You” with Justin Bieber, and “Selfish Love” with Selena Gomez. Diplo, Kanye West, Lil Jon… the collaborations keep on coming! He became the first French artist to have two songs with over a billion plays on Spotify, and the awards have rained down: Billboard Music Awards; MTV Music Awards; and no fewer than three NRJ Music Awards.

Hublot and DJ Snake have been partners since January 1st 2018, when he presided over the decks at Hublot’s closing evening during the FIFA World Cup in Russia.

Three years later, the first watch of this partnership is being unveiled:  The Big Bang DJ Snake.

The instantly recognizable and iconic design of the Big Bang now has an iridescent shine, with countless blue and purple hues. The bezel and the six titanium components of the 45-mm case are treated with a special and technical manufacturing process, similar to a black PVD treatment.  During the process, the different components of the watch must each be placed in specific positions when they are coated with different colors. The result is an optical effect in which the colors of the watch change depending on the light and when viewed from different angles. Not only that, but the surface of the parts was hardened before the iridescent treatment in order to improve its adherence. This operation is a complex one as it is difficult to obtain the same gradation of colour on each of the 100 watches being produced. The cut-outs on the outer edge of the bezel were designed by DJ Snake himself. These notches make the Big Bang DJ Snake immediately recognisable, distinguishing it from other collections. An illustration of the “Art of Fusion” philosophy so dear to Hublot!

On the upper face of the sapphire dial in the same colours as the case, a globe is featured, the signature of the electronic music star. A nod both to his travels across the planet for his concerts and to the fact that his hits have made the world his home. The lower section is skeletonised and treated to create sections with a black fumé finish.

This semi-transparent finish allows a glimpse of the famous calibre HUB1242 UNICO movement, a flyback chronograph with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Big Bang DJ Snake will be supplied with two straps which are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s patented One Click system. The first is made from rubber, with a grey, black and purple camouflage pattern echoing the myriad colours reflected by the watch case. The second, also rubber, has a black ribbed structure. The clasp on these straps also features the same “Newton’s Rings” effect as the case and bezel.

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GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

Timepiece with four hands • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve • 30° inclined GREUBEL FORSEY balance wheel system

This creation combines fully – and visibly –sport and chronometry. Circular from above, its case reveals the unique arched ovoid shape from other angles, and its slim profile reinforces its dynamic new momentum

The oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. The perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6 mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance. Its 30° angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance and is prominently visible in action thanks to the unique movement architecture

Balancier S

The exceptional chronometry of this creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement’s reliability and chronometric performance at all times

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Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon
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BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: ميزة من الياقوت النقي

BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: ميزة من الياقوت النقي

صحيح أنه في بعض الأحيان يكون القليل أكثر – وربما أكثر من ذلك بكثير. مع Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire ، ارتقت Hublot بفن الانصهار إلى نهايتها النهائية. سوار جديد وعلبة متكاملة مصنوعة خصيصًا من الياقوت: يؤكد هذا العمل الفذ مرة أخرى الكفاءة التقنية والخبرة الاستثنائية التي اكتسبتها Hublot في عمل الياقوت.

أبريل 2021 – سيبدو هذا بالنسبة للبعض تطورًا طبيعيًا. بالنسبة للآخرين ، سيكون انقطاع الاتصال التام. النتيجة النهائية هي القليل من كل منهما. إن ساعة Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire هي ثمرة تقليد عريق. تعود جذورها إلى عام 2016 ، وساعة Big Bang Unico Sapphire ، وهي أول ساعة من الياقوت. من خلال هذه القطعة ، ترجمت Hublot الخبرة التي طورتها في تصنيع المواد شديدة الصلابة لإنشاء سلسلة استثنائية من ساعات الياقوت. واليوم ، تدفع Hublot هذه الحدود إلى أبعد من ذلك: أول Big Bang بهيكل وسوار مدمجين ، وكلاهما مصنوع من الياقوت. تطور طبيعي (r) وإنجاز تقني للغاية على قدم المساواة.

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

“لمثل هذا الابتكار الاستثنائي ، اخترنا عيار توربيون الأوتوماتيكي الجديد بجسوره المصنوعة من الياقوت ، وشفافيته التي تخلق مشهداً مذهلاً. ومع ذلك ، كان صنع علبة وسوار مدمجين من الياقوت أمرًا مستحيلًا. أول علامة تجارية تكتسب إتقانًا مثاليًا لليقوت ، وتصنيعه وجعله قابلاً للتكرار في الإنتاج المتسلسل. لقد استغرق الأمر منا خمس سنوات لإحياء أغلفة الياقوت الأولى – وتقريباً نفس المدة بالنسبة للسوار. إنتاج كل من الياقوت ودمجها معًا هي ذروة العمل المتعمق الذي قامت به جميع فرق Hublot. نحن فخورون بأن نكون من يكتب الأسطر الأولى في هذا الفصل الجديد في تاريخ المواد “. – ريكاردو جوادالوبي ، الرئيس التنفيذي لشركة HUBLOT

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

أحيانًا يكون صانعو الساعات هم الوحيدون الذين يعرفون تفاصيل معينة عن ساعاتهم. مع العلبة والسوار المصنوعين بالكامل من الياقوت ، يتم الكشف عن جميع الأسرار: فتيل الحركة والغلاف ، وكل جانب مرئي.

تمت إعادة بناء هيكل ساعة Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire بالكامل لتضمين حركة توربيون الأوتوماتيكية. الهدف: إزالة جميع المسامير المرئية تقريبًا ، وإصلاح الهندسة العامة للعلبة لدمجها مع سوار الياقوت ، وتطوير شكل إطار جديد لإيواء سوار الياقوت ، وإعادة صياغة الجسور واللوحات الرئيسية لمنحهم الوهم. للتعليق في الفضاء. طورت Hublot أيضًا إدخالات ومرفقات تم تقليلها إلى أبسط تعبير ، للسماح للضوء من خلال كل مكون. وهكذا تتكون العلبة من ما لا يقل عن 37 مكونًا ، خمسة منها مصنوعة فقط من الياقوت.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

 

كان السوار أيضًا تحديًا معقدًا: فهو يتألف وحده من 165 مكونًا ، 22 منها مصنوعة من الياقوت. كل مكون له عملية صناعية خاصة به. تم تصميم ثلثها خصيصًا لتوفير تناغم فريد مع شفافية العلبة ، ولتوفير الانسيابية والمرونة. وتجدر الإشارة بشكل خاص إلى إدخالات التيتانيوم التي طورتها Hublot ، فائقة الاختزال لضمان عدم بروزها على جانبي كل رابط سوار – وهو الأول من نوعه في التصنيع ، وربما لصناعة الساعات.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

فيما يتعلق بالحركة ، فإن عيار التصنيع الأوتوماتيكي HUB6035 ، المصمم بالكامل والمصنع داخليًا ، هو القلب النابض للقطعة. إنه يوضح توازنًا مثاليًا بين الدوار الصغير عند موضع الساعة 12 والتوربيون عند موضع الساعة 6 ، وأيضًا مع الجسور الشفافة الثلاثة المصنوعة من الياقوت ، حصريًا لهذا Big Bang الجديد. يبدو أن المكونات معلقة حرفيا في الفضاء. لا يخترق كل قطار تروس فقط الضوء القادم من جانب الميناء ويمر عبر الحركة الهيكلية على الجانب الآخر: الآن ، ولأول مرة ، يدخل الضوء إلى قلب Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire من جميع الاتجاهات. إنه منتشر ، منكسر ، منعكس ، ملتوي وملفوف – جزء من الضوء مغلف على المعصم.
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Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

  • A single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.
  • A new Grand Complication movement, Calibre 1991, which took four years to develop

Geneva, April 7th 2021 – A highly technical single-piece edition, the Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch stages sophisticated complications in a manner bearing a unique aesthetic signature. Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre 1991, a new Grand Complication movement
Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100. Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial. In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system. In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Nods to historical master-watchmakers
The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260. This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism. In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Haute Horlogerie finishes
Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial. The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal. The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

“Le Temps Céleste”
Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches
Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions
In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist
Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

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Sum-up

The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch demonstrates technical mastery of watches featuring extreme astronomic and aesthetic complexity, with the integration on the dial of rotating globes. Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991 stemming from four years of development, this single-piece edition features a completely original perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of dates, days and months. This timepiece also offers a rare three-dimensional representation of the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a full rotation in 24 hours, complete with a day/night indication. The regulation of the movement is based on the same concern for technicality expressed by a double-axis armillary tourbillon whose nested aluminium carriages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This timepiece is presented in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Reference
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre
1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

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Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Geneva, April 6, 2021  Close to 500 press conferences, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six expert-led panels… and a wealth of exceptional creations revealed by the 38 prestigious participating Maisons: Watches and Wonders 2021 opens tomorrow a for a particularly intense edition that will put watchmaking in the spotlight for over ten days. Online and
offline, from Geneva to Shanghai, follow this unmissable event live from anywhere in the world. Connect from tomorrow 7:00 CET to the
watchesandwonders.com digital platform.

Only hours to go before the curtain comes up on Watches and Wonders with a 2021 edition in two parts, starting with a digital format in Geneva, then over to Shanghai for an in-person Salon. For more than ten days, the eyes of the world will be on the creativity and expertise of the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Getting this horological marathon under way, Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be particularly intense with 38 participating brands – double last year – 500 press conferences, 400 presentations to retailers, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six panel discussions, also live each day, one-toone appointments, virtual tours and more. All part of the exciting program for the 23,000 visitors – media, retailers and end customers – who have been invited to Watches and Wonders Geneva by the brands for a fully digital Salon
experience.

Watchmaking puts on a “Morning Show” Going out live every morning from April 8 to 13 at 8:00 CET, the 2021 edition launches with the first “Morning Show” at 7:00 CET on April 7th. Presented by Belle Donati, a primetime news anchor for major European networks, this is where industry experts and other prestigious guests will be giving their informed insight. Analyses, summaries, product presentations, trend focuses, CEO interviews, expert views, panel discussions, highlights of the day and everything you need to know about watchmaking will be shared, live, each morning… not forgetting the “Minute LAB”, spotlight on the latest technology and innovations from the participating brands. No stone will be left unturned during these seven 40-minute shows, presented in English and simultaneously translated into simplified Chinese. The public will be able to watch the “Morning Show” live on the watchesandwonders.com platform or
catch up on the Watches and Wonders YouTube channel and social media.

Another highlight of the event will be the 42 launches and other “breaking news” from the 38 participating brands. Expect some major announcements, new watch presentations and exclusive product reveals, all on the new watchesandwonders.com platform.

A platform for debate and discussion And there is more: watchesandwonders.com is also a place for ideas and debate. Every day, from April 8 to 13 at 12:15 CET, influencers, brand leaders
and watchmaking experts will discuss the perspectives and challenges that lie ahead for the industry.: How can watchmaking contribute to overcome
resources scarcity and generate a positive impact? What will be the lasting consequences of the global pandemic? What role should technology and new
materials play? What impact can blockchain have on watchmaking? All these subjects will be covered in six 40-minute discussions, streamed live on the
platform, then available on replay for the public.

A gathering of the leading players in watchmaking worldwide, Watches and Wonders is set to become the standout event for 2021. Join watch enthusiasts around the world on watchesandwonders.com from 7:00 CET tomorrow and be part of this digital experience, before moving on to China, starting April 14!

BRANDS ON THE WATCHESANDWONDERS.COM DIGITAL PLATFORM
PARTICIPATING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BVLGARI | CARL F. BUCHERER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CORUM | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GREUBEL FORSEY | H. MOSER & CIE. | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS MOINET | LOUIS VUITTON | MAURICE LACROIX | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | ORIS | PANERAI | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | PURNELL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS |ROLEX | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | ZENITH

BRANDS EXHIBITING AT WATCHES AND WONDERS SHANGHAI EXHIBITING BRANDS | CARTIER | ROLEX | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | PIAGET | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | CHOPARD | PANERAI | ULYSSE NARDIN | ROGER DUBUIS | MONTBLANC | TUDOR | BAUME & MERCIER | H. MOSER & CIE. | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | PURNELL

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L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen
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CHOPARD – L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Swiss Haute Horlogerie meets Chinese zodiac tradition

Steeped in the aesthetic codes of Chinese culture, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is the first L.U.C timepiece to display the traditional Chinese timekeeping system, Shí Chen. The animals of the zodiac that symbolises them parade slowly by on an Urushi lacquer disc, accompanied by the symbol of prosperity and its god Lu Xing. This creative new complication exists as an 88-piece limited edition. Its L.U.C 96.29-L Chopard Manufacture movement is housed in a 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case of peerless symbolic and physical finesse.

Carved from a block of ethical 18-carat rose gold, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is a talisman timepiece, an allegory of beliefs related to the Chinese zodiac and luck. It represents the first time that an Haute Horlogerie watch displays Shí Chen, the traditional Chinese time system, as a complication. It consists of twelve two-hour units, each one represented by an animal from the zodiac cycle. The day thus begins at 11pm with the hour of the Rat and ends with the hour of the Pig, while noon is in the middle of the hour of the Horse.

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

The Chinese zodiac bestiary enhanced by the art of Urushi

The procession of 12 animals slowly parades through a large aperture at 12 o’clock, enabling a dual time read-off: one traditional and the other based on the international system. This succession of zodiac signs also underlines the creativity and mastery of the Chopard Manufacture artisans. In addition, the dial and Shí Chen disc of this timepiece are made of Japanese lacquer. Faithful to Asian traditions, Chopard has worked right from the start with the finest Japanese lacquer artisans, who craft dials using the traditional Urushi lacquer technique.

The 88 dials of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen are produced by the workshops of the century-old Yamada Heiando company and crafted by Master lacquer specialist Minori Koizumi. In accordance with the distinctive Maki-e technique, gold flakes sprinkled between the layers of lacquer illuminate the 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case from within.

A creation placed under the protection of the god of prosperity

At the centre of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen dial is the golden, embossed emblem of the god Lu Ying, who is one of the three deities – together with Fu Xing and Shou Xing – respectively dedicated to prosperity, happiness and longevity, symbolically summing up the characteristics of a full life. This star of prosperity also refers to fame and influence and is an omnipresent sign in Chinese culture, where auspices, symbols and representations playing on the nature of ideograms are essential.

 

A timepiece endowed with great technical refinement

To equip the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, Chopard has created the L.U.C 96.29-L calibre, an exclusive variation of the 96 family, featuring a disc that completes a full rotation in 24 hours. This mechanical movement with automatic winding is just 3.97 mm thick thanks to its micro-rotor, a small oscillating weight neatly integrated into the calibre. Made of ethical 22-carat gold, it boasts high inertia enabling it to wind the two barrels efficiently. The latter are stacked in accordance with Chopard Twin Technology and are capable of storing the energy necessary for the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen to offer a total 65-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist, it will remain on time and accurate for more than two and a half days, the duration of a long weekend.

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Chopard’s in-house approach to Haute Horlogerie

Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The manufacturing stages of L.U.C. timepieces are carried out in-house at its production sites in Geneva and Fleurier.

Movement development, finished product design, gold casting, stamping and cases machining, movement parts and bracelets, as well as traditional handcrafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and involved in the making of each creation in the L.U.C collection.

The result of meticulous craftsmanship, Chopard’s exceptional L.U.C timepieces meet the aspirations of today’s gentleman, speaking to him without the slightest artifice or pretention, and unequivocally conveying an ideal blend of artisanal skill and emotions.

 

Technical details

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

88-piece limited edition in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Case:

Ethical 18-carat rose gold

Total diameter:                                                                                40,00 mm

Thickness:                                                                                        8.28 mm

Water resistance                                                                            30 metres

18-carat ethical rose gold crown with L.U.C logo                     5.00 mm

Vertical satin-brushed sides and inter-horn space

Polished bezel and case-back

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition case-back

Movement:

Mechanical with automatic winding                                            L.U.C 96.29-L

Winding via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold

Total diameter:                                                                                34.20 mm

Thickness:                                                                                       3,97 mm

Number of jewels:                                                                           29

Frequency:                                                                                      28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:                                                                                65 hours

Disc rotating in 24 hours, representing the 12 signs of the Chinese Zodiac

Twin stacked barrels, based on Chopard Twin Technology

Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Dial and hands:

Dial hand-crafted in Japan using the Urushi lacquer technique with shimmering decoration for the main dial and the twelve signs of the Zodiac on the lower rotating disc

Central symbol of prosperity motif in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Indexes and Arabic numerals in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Functions and displays:

Central display of the hours and minutes

Bracelet and buckle:

Black hand-sewn alligator strap with brown alligator leather lining

Polished and satin-brushed ethical 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161980-5001 – in ethical 18-carat rose gold with special Spirit of Shí Chen dial

88-piece limited edition

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER RECEIVES PRESTIGIOUS GPHG INNOVATION

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER RECEIVES PRESTIGIOUS GPHG INNOVATION PRIZE

FOR THE FIRST HIJRI PERPETUAL CALENDAR WRISTWATCH

“The calendar is an eminently fascinating watchmaking complication, as it really is the mirror of civilizations.” Michel Parmigiani

Earlier today, Parmigiani Fleurier was proud to receive the prestigious Innovation Prize from the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève for its creation of the first Hijri perpetual calendar wristwatch. The prize is awarded by the Jury on a discretionary basis to reward the best competing watch offering an innovative and unique vision of time measurement, and for opening up new pathways for the art of watchmaking.

The Hijri Perpetual Calendar features a 44.5 mm platinum case, a slate dial and rotor in platinum. It shows the hours and minutes, and date in Arabic numerals, the name and length of the months in Arabic calligraphy, as well as the abundant and the common years. It also features a moon phase in an aventurine sky and a power reserve of up to 48 hours. As seen in all Parmigiani Fleurier timepieces, every single component of the movement, even the hidden parts, are decorated by in-house specialists.

Parmigiani Fleurier is often inspired by its work in restoration and is firmly rooted in the history and tradition of watchmaking. The original development of this stunning timepiece dates back to 1993, when Michel Parmigiani restored a simple Hijri Calendar and a pocket watch from the end of the 18th or beginning of the 19th Century that featured a solar calendar translated into Arabic. This led Mr. Parmigiani to create the first-ever Hijri Calendar table clock, and today to the first wristwatch featuring this complication. The Hijri Perpetual Calendar has been carefully designed in consideration of the most intricate elements of Arabic architecture, culture, and religion. It is the culmination of centuries worth of technical knowledge, combining both culture and high horology, and beautifully showcasing the high standards in innovation and hand-crafted expertise the Maison is known for.

“We would like to thank all the people who collaborated with us on this incredible project,” said Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. “At Parmigiani Fleurier we stand strong in our belief in solidarity, in the power of community, in being inspired by the work of greats who have come before us, in inspiring future generations, and sharing the gifts of watchmaking with industry colleagues and those around the globe who appreciate the artistry of our work. The international community of watch admirers and devotees is a motley of cultures and traditions; we celebrate this diversity in our own way with the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, and we hope that- as an industry and as citizens of the world-  we will also embrace it in the people we choose to represent and lead us.”

Parmigiani Fleurier sought the expertise of Mr. Stefano Macaluso to redesign each of the bridges of the new PF009 movement. The bridges are inspired by the typical arches of mosques and adopt the shape of growing and shrinking crescent moons. The Rub el Hizb, an Islamic symbol represented by two overlapping squares which in Arabic calligraphy marks the end of a chapter, is often used in the holy book of Quran and is also represented in this design to honor the cultural richness of the Arab world through modern watchmaking.

“The decoration inspiration for the Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar was drawn from the architecture of the Arab world, highlighting all of its aesthetic codes, each more beautiful than the next, while keeping in mind an evocative and quickly understandable visual vocabulary,” said Stefano Macaluso.

 
Picture: The Naked Watchmaker  

In the Muslim world, the calendar is based on the cycles of the moon. The Hijri or Islamic lunar calendar consists of twelve months of 29 or 30 days – depending on the moon phase- and is used to pinpoint the days for Islamic holidays. In contrast to the solar calendar, which is used in the west, the months of the lunar calendar change annually by a difference of -10 to -12 days. As a result, each month always falls on a different season and therefore varies from the Gregorian Calendar.

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

Taking its name from its founder, watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani, the fine watchmaking brand was founded in 1996 in Fleurier, in the Swiss valley of Val-de-Travers. With its own watchmaking centre ensuring its independence, the brand has both full control over the production process and unique creative freedom. For over twenty years, the Parmigiani Fleurier signature has resided within timepieces that command the utmost respect, in harmony with watchmaking traditions. They are the labour of a lifetime – that of Michel Parmigiani, the talented individuals who assist him, and the special relationship between the Manufacture and the masterpieces of the past, enabling it to invent a bold future.

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