L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Swiss Haute Horlogerie meets Chinese zodiac tradition

Steeped in the aesthetic codes of Chinese culture, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is the first L.U.C timepiece to display the traditional Chinese timekeeping system, Shí Chen. The animals of the zodiac that symbolises them parade slowly by on an Urushi lacquer disc, accompanied by the symbol of prosperity and its god Lu Xing. This creative new complication exists as an 88-piece limited edition. Its L.U.C 96.29-L Chopard Manufacture movement is housed in a 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case of peerless symbolic and physical finesse.

Carved from a block of ethical 18-carat rose gold, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is a talisman timepiece, an allegory of beliefs related to the Chinese zodiac and luck. It represents the first time that an Haute Horlogerie watch displays Shí Chen, the traditional Chinese time system, as a complication. It consists of twelve two-hour units, each one represented by an animal from the zodiac cycle. The day thus begins at 11pm with the hour of the Rat and ends with the hour of the Pig, while noon is in the middle of the hour of the Horse.

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

The Chinese zodiac bestiary enhanced by the art of Urushi

The procession of 12 animals slowly parades through a large aperture at 12 o’clock, enabling a dual time read-off: one traditional and the other based on the international system. This succession of zodiac signs also underlines the creativity and mastery of the Chopard Manufacture artisans. In addition, the dial and Shí Chen disc of this timepiece are made of Japanese lacquer. Faithful to Asian traditions, Chopard has worked right from the start with the finest Japanese lacquer artisans, who craft dials using the traditional Urushi lacquer technique.

The 88 dials of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen are produced by the workshops of the century-old Yamada Heiando company and crafted by Master lacquer specialist Minori Koizumi. In accordance with the distinctive Maki-e technique, gold flakes sprinkled between the layers of lacquer illuminate the 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case from within.

A creation placed under the protection of the god of prosperity

At the centre of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen dial is the golden, embossed emblem of the god Lu Ying, who is one of the three deities – together with Fu Xing and Shou Xing – respectively dedicated to prosperity, happiness and longevity, symbolically summing up the characteristics of a full life. This star of prosperity also refers to fame and influence and is an omnipresent sign in Chinese culture, where auspices, symbols and representations playing on the nature of ideograms are essential.

 

A timepiece endowed with great technical refinement

To equip the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, Chopard has created the L.U.C 96.29-L calibre, an exclusive variation of the 96 family, featuring a disc that completes a full rotation in 24 hours. This mechanical movement with automatic winding is just 3.97 mm thick thanks to its micro-rotor, a small oscillating weight neatly integrated into the calibre. Made of ethical 22-carat gold, it boasts high inertia enabling it to wind the two barrels efficiently. The latter are stacked in accordance with Chopard Twin Technology and are capable of storing the energy necessary for the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen to offer a total 65-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist, it will remain on time and accurate for more than two and a half days, the duration of a long weekend.

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Chopard’s in-house approach to Haute Horlogerie

Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The manufacturing stages of L.U.C. timepieces are carried out in-house at its production sites in Geneva and Fleurier.

Movement development, finished product design, gold casting, stamping and cases machining, movement parts and bracelets, as well as traditional handcrafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and involved in the making of each creation in the L.U.C collection.

The result of meticulous craftsmanship, Chopard’s exceptional L.U.C timepieces meet the aspirations of today’s gentleman, speaking to him without the slightest artifice or pretention, and unequivocally conveying an ideal blend of artisanal skill and emotions.

 

Technical details

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

88-piece limited edition in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Case:

Ethical 18-carat rose gold

Total diameter:                                                                                40,00 mm

Thickness:                                                                                        8.28 mm

Water resistance                                                                            30 metres

18-carat ethical rose gold crown with L.U.C logo                     5.00 mm

Vertical satin-brushed sides and inter-horn space

Polished bezel and case-back

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition case-back

Movement:

Mechanical with automatic winding                                            L.U.C 96.29-L

Winding via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold

Total diameter:                                                                                34.20 mm

Thickness:                                                                                       3,97 mm

Number of jewels:                                                                           29

Frequency:                                                                                      28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:                                                                                65 hours

Disc rotating in 24 hours, representing the 12 signs of the Chinese Zodiac

Twin stacked barrels, based on Chopard Twin Technology

Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Dial and hands:

Dial hand-crafted in Japan using the Urushi lacquer technique with shimmering decoration for the main dial and the twelve signs of the Zodiac on the lower rotating disc

Central symbol of prosperity motif in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Indexes and Arabic numerals in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Functions and displays:

Central display of the hours and minutes

Bracelet and buckle:

Black hand-sewn alligator strap with brown alligator leather lining

Polished and satin-brushed ethical 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161980-5001 – in ethical 18-carat rose gold with special Spirit of Shí Chen dial

88-piece limited edition

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty.
An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time.

Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silk-like pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The watches come with a full 5-year warranty and are offered in three unique choices:

– A model with an 18K Moonshine™ gold dial featuring an embossed silk pattern and Roman numerals.
– A model with a white dial, featuring embossed Roman numerals in 18K Moonshine™ gold.
– A model with an 18K white gold rhodium-plated dial, fully paved with a snow setting of 768 single-cut diamonds. The markings appear on the front crystal.

As always, each Trésor is defined by the 38 full-cut diamonds that curve along the sides of the case, as well as an additional full-cut diamond set on the crown, which itself is engraved with an OMEGA flower and filled with red liquid ceramic.

Turning the watches over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits just behind polished mirror casebacks that are embellished by a unique metalized pattern.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

Technical Features :

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h

Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed s

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

 

 

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

 

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

 

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

 

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

 

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

 

 

Technical Features :

 

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h

Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal

Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition

 

 

ee-through case back with sapphire crystal

Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition

 

 

CHOPARD

Ювелирные часы Magari Произведение искусства из коллекции Red Carpet.

Среди сокровищ знаменитой коллекции Red Carpet от Chopard, автоматические ювелирные часы Magari ярко свидетельствуют о любви Дома к самым красивым из всех алмазов, добытых из даров земли.

Творческая душа Chopard и инициатор ее пути к устойчивой роскоши, сопрезидент и художественный руководитель Кэролайн Шойфеле воспевает чудеса природы в новой коллекции Red Carpet. Среди 73 творений Haute Joaillerie, составляющих эту драгоценную шкатулку – число в честь 73-го Каннского кинофестиваля, который должен был состояться в 2020 году, – ювелирные часы Magari отдают дань уважения исключительным драгоценным камням. Благодаря своему уникальному опыту, мастера женевского Дома украсили циферблат этих автоматических часов с 40-часовым запасом хода тонким венчиком из грушевидных бриллиантов общим весом более 32 карат. Установленные в положениях «12 часов» и «6 часов» причудливый розовый и причудливый голубой бриллиант грушевидной огранки весом два карата каждый придают этим часам ауру чистоты и благородства. Они были специально отобраны благодаря своему блеску и уникальным цветам, которые эффектно подчеркивают их ассоциации с белыми бриллиантами, которыми украшены остальные ювелирные часы.

Циферблат украшен тщательной отделкой микро-драгоценными камнями, а браслет также полностью усыпан бриллиантами, напоминающими реку с ее сверкающими отблесками, бегущими вдоль запястья. Дань красоте природы и диалогу со светом, все ювелирные часы Magari сделаны из этичного 18-каратного белого золота, что отражает приверженность Chopard к экологичной роскоши.

В мастерских Chopard в Женеве более 30 талантливых мастеров объединили свои таланты, раздвинув границы возможного – от линий до объемов, от ювелирного дела до драгоценных камней – чтобы вдохнуть жизнь в украшения, составляющие престижную коллекцию Red Carpet.

Франк Мюллер Женева | Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ СКЕЛЕТ

Вдохновленный динамичной коллекцией Vanguard ™, модель Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ Skeleton развивает творческое видение времени с подтвержденными морскими деталями. Морской мир, украшенный всеми морскими деталями, от темно-синего до розы ветров на циферблате, вдохновил каждую изящную деталь этих недавно созданных часов.
Ажурные мосты призваны подчеркнуть архитектуру часов и раскрыть механизм, полностью изготовленный собственными силами.
Этот напарник доступен в розовом, желтом и белом золоте 18 карат, нержавеющей стали и бронзе.

   
Создав Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ Skeleton, Франк Мюллер создал идеальную алхимию между традиционным механическим механизмом и производительностью часов с семидневным запасом хода.


Идеальные спортивные и элегантные часы для любителей моря с мостами, напоминающими якоря, и секундной стрелкой в положении «6 часов», представляющей собой компасную розу.
Сбалансированный дизайн, демонстрирующий страсть к ремеслам и искусству деталей, характерную для мануфактуры Franck Muller.

©2019 Franck Muller GenèveAll rights reserved GFM Watchland SA

www.franckmuller.com

ФРАНК МЮЛЛЕР GENEVE VANGUARD ™ REVOLUTION 3 СКЕЛЕТ

Skeleton Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ представляет творческое видение времени с подтвержденными морскими деталями. Морской мир, украшенный всеми морскими деталями, от темно-синего до розы ветров на циферблате, вдохновил каждую изящную деталь этих недавно созданных часов. Идеальные спортивные и элегантные часы для любителей моря с мостами, напоминающими якоря, и секундной стрелкой в ​​положении «6 часов», представляющей собой компасную розу.
Ссылка

ЯХТА V 45 S6 PR SQT ANCRE FM (BL)
случайный
Розовое золото 18 карат
Ширина: 44 мм, Длина: 53,70 мм, Толщина: 12,65 мм
Водонепроницаемость до 30 метров
Обязательства
Часы, минуты и секунды в положении «6 часов».
Индикатор запаса хода
Движение
FM 1740-VSPR
Ручное механическое движение
Ширина: 37,05 мм, Длина: 40,20 мм, Толщина: 6 мм
Запас хода 7 дней
18000 полуколебаний / час
175 компонентов – 21 камень
Движение
украшение
Ручное снятие фаски, зеркальная полировка боковой поверхности, полировка нижней пластины молдинга Матовая обработка пластины и пескоструйная обработка противоположной стороны
Сатинированная обработка и снятие фаски на всех компонентов.
Круговая чистка ствола и колес.
Набирать номер
Ажурный механизм с мостами из анодированного алюминия синего цвета
Отделка из 24-каратного розового золота на индикаторе запаса хода, стрелках и розетке компаса
Ремень
Ремешок из нейлона, сшитый вручную

 

© Franck Muller Genève, 2019 Все права защищены GFM Watchland SA

ЧАСЫ HUBLOT MECA-10

Часы, вдохновившие на создание часов: сотрудничая с мануфактурой L’Epée из Юры, Hublot выпустила увеличенную версию своего знаменитого мануфактурного механизма MECA-10 для использования в настольных часах.

Презентация Hublot механизма MECA-10 в январе 2016 года ошеломила любителей часов. Мануфактура заново изобрела ручной механизм, предлагая непревзойденную производительность, а также уникальный стиль, вдохновленный конструкционной системой Meccano. Необычная скелетная архитектура придает механизму поразительную трехмерную глубину, которая хорошо видна через мосты и заднюю крышку. Его исключительный 10-дневный запас хода – теперь необходимый для любого приличного калибра с ручным заводом – отображается на диске, который можно прочитать на циферблате.

В 2020 году Hublot представила уникальный продукт в негабаритной версии. MECA-10 был увеличен в четыре раза для использования в настольных часах, при этом полностью сохранены его первоначальные характеристики, включая 10-дневный запас хода.

«Нам удалось воспроизвести уникальные особенности нашего механизма MECA-10 в большем масштабе. Этот инженерный подвиг был достигнут благодаря совместным усилиям команд Hublot и L’Epée. Таким образом, мы прокладываем новый курс священной традиции часового искусства. ”

Чтобы расширить свой механизм MECA-10, Hublot прибегла к услугам мануфактуры L’Epée. Всемирно известный опыт в часовом деле этой компании из Джуры сделал ее естественным выбором для сотрудничества, и, поскольку разработка наручных часов сильно отличается от создания часов, это также дало Hublot возможность продемонстрировать свой знаменитый подход «Art of Fusion». в новой отрасли часового искусства. Этот особенно впечатляющий результат был достигнут благодаря объединению опыта дизайнеров, конструкторов и мастеров часового дела Hublot и Epée.

Часы Hublot MECA-10, поразительно похожие на оригинал, по сути, являются увеличенной версией своего предшественника. В просторном корпусе 19,60 на 18,10 см находится драгоценный механизм, который представлен в двух версиях. Первый отличается углами в стиле Meccano и кольцом из полированной сатинированной стали и прозрачного композита. Второй покрыт черным PVD-покрытием, а мосты, поддерживающие зубчатые передачи, также покрыты черным покрытием. Заводная головка с насечкой в ​​положении «3 часа» покрыта резиной для лучшего захвата при ручном заводе.

Как и версия наручных часов, от которой он черпает вдохновение, часовой механизм MECA-10 имеет 10-дневный запас хода, который отображается на индикаторе у отметки «6 часов».

Эти два драгоценных выпуска часов MECA-10, плод тесного сотрудничества между Hublot и L’Epée, являются эксклюзивными экземплярами ограниченного выпуска, предназначенными для истинных ценителей.

ТЕХНИЧЕСКИЕ ХАРАКТЕРИСТИКИ

СПРАВКА

DC.MECA10.SD.SP.1123

DC.MECA10.SX.SP.1123

КЕЙС

Сатинированная и полированная сталь с черным PVD-покрытием

Сатинированная и полированная сталь

Диаметр: 134,6 мм

Толщина: 69,8 мм

ДЕЛО-НАЗАД

Сатинированная и полированная сталь с черным PVD-покрытием

Сатинированная и полированная сталь

БЕЗЕЛЬ

Сатинированная и полированная сталь с черным PVD-покрытием

Сатинированная и полированная сталь

НАБИРАТЬ НОМЕР

Матовый черный скелет

Стальные стрелки с сатинированной пескоструйной обработкой и белым люминесцентным покрытием

ДВИЖЕНИЕ

Механизм Skeleton Power Reserve с ручным заводом и 2 барабанами

Мосты с черным покрытием

Спусковой механизм с родиевым покрытием

Индикация запаса хода в 6.00

Частота: 2,5 Гц

Запас хода: 10 дней

Количество компонентов: 432

Камни: 52

FRANCK MULLER – Первая автоматическая коробка для часов

Franck Muller рад сообщить о доставке самого первого скелета Vanguard Revolution 3 в феноменальной коробке.

Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton заслужил уникальную коробку для часов. На создание таких исключительных часов ушли годы, а на их изготовление – месяцы.

На этот уникальный трехосный турбийон предоставляется 5-летняя гарантия, и он поставляется в уникальной коробке с автоматической системой открывания.

ФРАНК МЮЛЛЕР GENEVE VANGUARD ™ REVOLUTION 3 СКЕЛЕТ

 

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies’ watch born to accompany every moment of the modern woman’s life

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

The manufacture is stepping up the allure of its Twenty~4 collection exclusively for women with a fresh interpretation of the original “manchette” or cuff-style quartz model in steel of 1999. It is launching two new versions adorned with white-gold applied Arabic numerals and white-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers. Designed as stylish companions to every facet of an active lifestyle, these Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A- 001 with a blue sunburst dial and 4910/1200A-010 with a gray sunburst dial stand out more than ever as paragons of timeless feminine elegance.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Since 1839, timepieces for women have always featured prominently in Patek Philippe’s collections – whether as the pocket watches or pendant watches of the nineteenth century or the wristwatches that first emerged in the early twentieth century. Several milestones in the manufacture’s history also relate to watches destined for women, such as the first true wristwatch made in Switzerland, created for a Hungarian countess in 1868, and the Geneva company’s very first striking wristwatch, a five-minute repeater housed in a small platinum case with an integrated chain bracelet in 1916.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A modern classic

In 1999, Patek Philippe strengthened its privileged links with feminine watch lovers by launching its first collection dedicated exclusively to women. The aim was to meet the demands of the independent active woman who sought a timepiece with an assertive personality able to adapt to her modern lifestyle. A watch of timeless elegance that would complement her fashionable business wear and most elegant evening wear. It would be her ally on every occasion, uniting contemporary design, technical excellence and impeccable craftsmanship.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Conceived, as its name suggested, for every hour of the day and night, at work, at home and during leisure activities, the new Twenty~4 stood out by its original art-deco-inspired “manchette” or cuff design, featuring a cambered rectangular case that followed the contours of a woman’s wrist and a metallic bracelet that felt exceptionally smooth and comfortable.

The first three Twenty~4 models of 1999 (references 4910/10A) were also distinguished by their pairing of steel with diamonds, an association unique at the time, with the precious stones set in two rows highlighting the rectangular shape of the two-tier case. The dials, adorned with the two applied Roman numerals XII and VI and diamond hour-markers, offered a choice of threecolors: “Forever Black”, “Eternal Gray” and “Timeless White”. An elegant modern advertising campaign marked the launch of this new women-only timepiece, with the slogan “Who will you be in the next 24 hours?” shining the spotlight on the watch’s versatility. The creation of the Twenty~4 strengthened women’s perception of Patek Philippe as a brand of direct relevance and appeal to them. It reminded them that the manufacture developed and built not only the most technically innovative and complex timepieces but those most aesthetically striking and refined.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A great success

Blessed with its strong identity and a design tailor-made to live the lives of modern discerning women, the Twenty~4 quartz “manchette” model was a great success from the start and has established itself in the last two decades as one of the manufacture’s best-sellers. Over the years it has appeared in rose gold and white gold, with other dial colors (brown and blue), in a small format complementing the medium-size models, on satin straps, in dazzling Haute Joaillerie versions (including two endowed with manually wound mechanical movements) and in a yellow-gold model without diamonds on the case. Now seen as epitomizing the classic modern style, the Twenty~4 has represented, for many women, their right of entry into the Patek Philippe universe. It has consolidated the manufacture’s position as a major player in the women’s watch market and paved the way for the expansion of other women’s lines, such as the Calatravas, as well as the complications that are useful in everyday situations (the Annual Calendar, the time-zone watches and the chronographs) and even the grand complications (perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph and minute repeater).

The time of the Twenty~4 Automatic

In 2018, Patek Philippe responded to women’s increasing interest in mechanical watches by launching the Twenty~4 Automatic. While its bracelet retains the same exclusive design, with the broad, gently cambered central links framed by delicate two-tier outer links, this Reference 7300, endowed with a caliber 324 S C self-winding movement, stands out from the quartz-driven “manchette” model by its round case, its bezel lit with a double row of diamonds in a “dentelle” (lacework) setting, and the applied Arabic numerals on the dial, these last providing a distinctly contemporary note. This model is available in steel and in rose gold, with a choice of dial colors, and in a jewelry version with gem-set crown, lugs and bracelet. Patek Philippe also produces an Haute Joaillerie model in rose gold, paved throughout with diamonds, showcasing the “random” or “snow” setting. The launch of this new incarnation of timeless feminine elegance was accompanied by an advertising campaign that excited widespread interest. It gave center stage to a “Twenty~4 woman”: independent, sure of her taste and making her own way in the world.

New Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A-001 & 4910/1200A-010

Patek Philippe is continuing the renewal of its Twenty~4 collection by reinterpreting the original model, the medium-size (25.1 x 30 mm) quartz “manchette” watch in steel. It is issuing two new versions in which the Roman numerals give way to the white-gold applied Arabic numerals 12 and 6 and the diamond hour markers are replaced by applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, also in white gold. This new face constitutes the first major change to the Twenty~4 of 1999 – and an aesthetic evolution in step with the design of the Twenty~4 Automatic. The two new references feature a dial decorated with a blue sunburst (4910/1200A-001) or with a gray sunburst enriched by a gradation to black at the periphery (4910/1200A-010). Their white-gold applied numerals and hour markers and white-gold baton-style hands all have a luminous coating ensuring excellent legibility in the dark. The fine grooved rays of the sunburst emanating from the center of the dial play with the light, lending a refined but dynamic touch.

The distinctive shape of the two-tier rectangular case is underlined by two rows of 18 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (approx. 0.42 ct) set with textbook precision. A Calatrava Cross, emblem of the Patek Philippe manufacture, embellishes the crown. The supple, comfortable bracelet, fitted with a fold-over clasp, is a jewel in its own right. Each component is manually finished and fully polished. The Patek Philippe caliber E15 quartz movement is made with the same devotion to fine workmanship as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The new references 4910/1200A-001 and 4910/1200A-010 with Arabic numerals replace the previous references 4910/10A-001, 4910/10A-010, 4910/10A-011 and 4910/10A-012 with Roman numerals.

“Rituals of my Life”

The launch of these two new Twenty~4 models is accompanied by a digital communication campaign addressing modern women sure of their taste, with an affinity for beauty and fine design. They are independent women, living life to the full, with a range of interests. Patek Philippe chose as central theme “Rituals of my Life”: the precious personal moments that punctuate the modern woman’s life – such as the finishing touches before an evening out; a pause for a moment’s serenity at sunrise; or the luxury of taking time for herself by reading a book or performing the movements that bring her physical and mental wellbeing. Essential, intimate moments that are part of a woman’s life today and that some choose to feature as scenes to be shared with friends on the social media. The slogan “Begin your own tradition” underlines the link with the famous Patek Philippe “Generations” campaign by inviting the Twenty~4 woman to begin a long-term relationship with a brand that shares her values. The images and videos work together with a film describing the creative philosophy behind the Twenty~4 collection: a model of timeless design that has become a modern classic and the gold standard for the “manchette” watch. All of which is set to strengthen Patek Philippe’s increasing success in the ladies’ watch segment and in the hearts of women for whom style and beauty must pass the test of time.

For more information about the new Twenty~4, please visit:
https://www.patek.com/en/company/news/introducing-the-new-twenty4

Patek Philippe reasserts its grand complications expertise

With the enrichment of the current collection by three models – the new Ref. 5303 as the first Patek Philippe minute repeater that presents the striking mechanism on the dial side as well as a reinterpretation of the legendary Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph and the redesigned classic Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph – the Genevan manufacture yet again leverages its virtuosity in the king’s class of watchmaking artistry. These three timepieces represent a perfect meld of tradition and innovation. Paired with beautiful finesse in looks and features, they enrich the already extensive lineup of grand complications.

Patek Philippe – Minute Repeater – 5303R-001

As far back as 1839, when the company was founded, one of the first timepieces crafted in the manufacture was a quarter repeater that can now be admired at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. As the 19th century continued to unfold, Patek Philippe further pursued its passion for grand complications, crafted many watches of this type, and received several patents for technical optimizations. In the 20th century, the manufacture earned a legendary reputation for so-called supercomplicated pocket watches that were made for the American collectors James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. and featured chiming functions as well as elaborate astronomical displays. At the same time, Patek Philippe was involved in miniaturizing grand complications so they could be worn on the wrist, as evidenced in 1925 by the first known wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. In the last decades of the 20th century, the manufacture again celebrated a milestone in this exceptional watch category and presented two pocket watches that the world had never seen before: the Calibre 89 (33 complications) that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for 25 years, and the Star Caliber 2000 with 21 complications. In 2001, the art of miniaturizing highly elaborate mechanisms found its ultimate expression with the launch of the Sky Moon Tourbillon (12 complications) and subsequently, in 2014, with the Grandmaster Chime that with 20 complications would become Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch.

An especially challenging philosophy

Today, Patek Philippe has one of the most comprehensive collections of regularly produced grand complications, including minute repeaters with perpetual calendars, astronomical watches, timepieces with tourbillons and models that combine several of these highly coveted functions. As the outcome of know-how transfers from one generation to the next and underpinned with the results of high-end research, these watches follow two fundamental principles that are highly important to Patek Philippe. One of them is to rise to the challenge of accommodating a maximum of technical complexity in a minimal volume (smallest possible height and diameter), allowing the design of very slender cases that project timeless elegance. Secondly, each complication – no matter how elaborate – must be simple to operate for the user and be a role model of convenience, functional integrity, and legibility. The three grand complications of 2020 illustrate this philosophy very convincingly. They embody a level of craftsmanship that makes each Patek Philippe a precious work of art.


Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater An extravaganza for eyes and ears

Since it made its first pocket watch with a minute repeater (1845), Patek Philippe has established itself as one of the gifted interpreters of the music of time. This remarkable know- how comes to the fore even in the most extraordinary creations, such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch featuring a minute repeater with cathedral gongs or the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with five chiming functions including two patented global debuts. The manufacture also offers the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeaters, watches with classic or cathedral gongs and models featuring a minute repeater with or without additional complications (perpetual calendar, tourbillon, World Time, chronograph). But never before had Patek Philippe crafted a minute repeater with a striking mechanism that was visible on the dial side.

The Ref. 5303 was unveiled in 2019 in a limited edition of 12 watches as a world debut on the occasion of the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”.
Now, a slightly modified version of the Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon has become part of the current Patek Philippe collection. This new complication for enthusiasts of repeater timepieces stands out with its open architecture without a conventional dial. The repeater mechanism – for the first time with the hammers and gongs – can be admired in action without removing the watch from the wrist. This is a further expression of Patek Philippe’s customer- centric development philosophy. The transparency aspect also applies to the tourbillon: the back side of its cage can be seen beneath the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In this veritably perfect composition, the filigreed steel parts glisten against the backdrop of the rose gilt plate.

The aesthetic of the manually wound caliber R TO 27 PS was subtly reworked to emphasize its appeal. For instance, certain components were pierced, as is common for skeletonized movements. Of course, Patek Philippe also mobilized its heritage in the manual finissage of movement parts: it decorated the plate with Genevan circular graining, applied a delicate perlage to the recesses, and decorated the hammers with a circular satin finish.

The inimitable rose-gold case sports a wide, cambered and polished bezel as well as white- gold inlays with foliage engravings that grace the caseband and the strap lugs. The white-gold slide in the left-hand case flank that activates the minute repeater features the same motif. The hour circle is black-lacquered sapphire-crystal rim with powdered rose-gold markers. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back and is framed by a white- gold rim. Its open-worked decoration echoes the case inlays and the repeater slide.
This fantastic lesson in watchmaking artistry, elegance, and manual finissage is complemented with the unique sound that is typical of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces. As is the case for every Patek Philippe minute repeater, this melody of time is personally rated with great care by manufacture president Thierry Stern.

Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph A new face with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial

Apart from the minute repeater and the tourbillon, the triad at the pinnacle of the most elaborate horological complications also includes the split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 124’824); since 1923, it occupies a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection. The Ref. 5370, the first split-seconds chronograph endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS was launched in 2015 with a platinum case and a black enamel dial. Coveted by connoisseurs, this grand complication has now been subtly upgraded with a new blue face with glossy finish that reflects Patek Philippe’s proud tradition in Grand Feu enamel dials. It is an oeuvre of unmatched chromatic intensity that is made by hand on the basis of an 18K gold dial plate.

The dial is superbly legible as befits an instrument with a decidedly technical personality. The hours and minutes are tracked by slender leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings and applied Breguet numerals in white gold. The results of short-time measurements are readable with the same precision and speed: the sweep chronograph and rattrapante hands as well as the instantaneous 30-minute counter hand contrast as clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.

The two-phase chronograph movement with two pushers for the chronograph functions and a rattrapante pusher integrated in the crown at 3 o’clock is an impressive example of how tradition meets innovation. The classic elements of the basic architecture are the manual winder, dual-column-wheel control, and the horizontal wheel clutch. Nonetheless, it is a 21st- century movement endowed with extensive optimization details and patented innovations as well as an advanced rattrapante mechanism.

The elegant polished platinum case with a concave bezel and satin-finished flank recesses is worn on an alligator strap in shiny night blue secured by a platinum fold-over clasp.
As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is graced with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces its predecessor with the black enamel dial, presenting a new combination of superb craftsmanship and watchmaking artistry.

Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph A majestic classic with a new yellow-gold personality

As the heir of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte”-style bracelet. Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication by the Ref. 5270, cased in yellow gold for the first time. It is a very elegant outfit for this timeless watch that pairs a concave bezel with two- tier lugs.

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts). The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales secured with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous platinum and rose-gold models to accommodate the individual preferences of aficionados of Patek Philippe grand complications.