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Watches and Wonders Geneva announces its dates for 2024

The Salon has revealed its dates, confirming that it will be opening to the general public with a two-part program.
The next edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva will be held from 9 to 15 April 2024 in Geneva’s Halles de Palexpo. New for next year, the general public will be able to attend the event over a long 3-day weekend, from Saturday to Monday inclusive. Press and trade visitors will have access to the Salon throughout the week.

The 2024 edition intends to build on the success of 2023, further raising Geneva’s profile as an international watchmaking destination. The program will again unfold in two parts – at Palexpo and In the City – with an evening event on Thursday 11 April in the heart of town. The aim is to get the people of Geneva and local players even more involved in this major watchmaking event.

All the brands taking part in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 will be announced at a later date, along with the full program.

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Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

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Patek Philippe – 5905/1A FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

Patek Philippe 

5905/1A
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. ANNUAL CALENDAR.

A resolutely sporty version in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019,
Reference 5905 combines two practical and easy-to-use complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The Manufacture is reinterpreting the style of this much sought-after model by unveiling a first version in steel – a rare metal in the Patek Philippe collections – with a three-link integrated bracelet. This bold and casual design renews the way a Patek Philippe complication watch is worn on a daily basis.

The extremely rhythmical dial features a new elegant and contemporary sunburst olive green color. It ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting. Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch. This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st.

It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial

5905/1A-001
Available for the first time in steel, the Reference 5905 self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar radiates a resolutely sporty look. The rhythmic dial features an elegant and casual “sunburst” olive green color. The integrated bracelet is enhanced by contrasting polished and satin finishes. Thanks to the vertical disk-type clutch, the central chronograph seconds hand can be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

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CHIARA FERRAGNI BECOMES A NEW HUBLOT GLOBAL AMBASSADOR AND FACE OF THE GLOBAL CAMPAIGN

CHIARA FERRAGNI BECOMES A NEW HUBLOT GLOBAL AMBASSADOR AND FACE OF THE GLOBAL CAMPAIGN

Fusion under the influence – With Chiara, everything is possible

Chiara Ferragni has joined the Hublot family in the company of many legendary personalities such as football legend Pelé, tennis world No. 1 Novak Djokovic, track and field champions Dina Asher-Smith and Usain Bolt and three Michelin star chef Clare Smyth. She lights up everything she touches and creates, she is a natural-born winner and shines her aura over everything she loves and chooses.

Today, she has chosen Hublot. So why Chiara Ferragni and why Hublot?

Everything I do, I do to share. The things I love, the people I love, the things I experience, my daily life, my children, my work: I put my heart into everything to inspire others, to believe in themselves and their dreams. I found my ikigai in 2009. I managed to combine my passion with my talent in response to a need and now it has become my business. By opening the door to who I am and what I experience, I am also hoping to inspire the women of today not to choose between being a wife, a mother or an entrepreneur. All these roles complete me, just as they complete each other. Beauty drives everything I do. Not only inner beauty, but everything I see around me. That is reflected in my collaborations, my words, my charity work and my daily life. Why Hublot? Because Hublot is not like any other watch brand, it follows its own distinctive path, with determination: It follows its dreams of innovation, while respecting traditions; it seeks beauty both inside and out, by showcasing much more than athletic performance or the success of a family member, it celebrates the reasons for this performance and success, in other words, the ability to be first, different and unique. Hublot’s messages and values speak to me, that’s why I have chosen to join this family today. A fusion of passion and determination has shaped who I am, across all my roles, and forged the businesswoman I have become. This same fusion has also made Hublot the company it is today.

Chiara Ferragni
Hublot Brand Ambassador

Who does not know Chiara Ferragni? Her extraordinary destiny is not down to luck, this visionary and determined woman is someone who learnt how to grow and evolve with her time. By portraying and sharing who she is and what she loves, she has realised her dream, inspiring the men and women of her generation to believe that anything is possible. As someone who is both authentic and spontaneous, she has turned her happy, positive and generous nature into her trademark. As a visionary and pioneer, she has been able to move with the times by dominating the digital platforms and turning her passion into a real business. Her passion became her job, and her natural talent transformed into a success that is seemingly within everyone’s reach. Her inspiring journey proves that anything is possible; it’s the stuff of dreams, while being very real. Who wouldn’t want to live and realise their dreams like Chiara Ferragni? At Hublot, we love inspiring women and men who believe in their dreams and move heaven and earth to fulfil them, who assert their distinctive personality, are willing to go out on a limb, who are not afraid of what people will say and who follow their path with authenticity and passion.
That’s why Chiara fits so well into our family.

Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO

Surely, one no longer needs to present Chiara Ferragni?

Well yes, if only to highlight the very nature of this woman, a so-called influencer, a term too small to encompass all her talents. As a business woman, entrepreneur, influencer, wife and mother of two, she embodies that ‘can do’ attitude that everyone finds so inspiring.Twelve years after launching theblondesalad.com, Chiara Ferragni has achieved a success story. When she started out, Instagram did not exist and blogging was in its infancy. It took Chiara only a few months to turn a hobby into a business, attracting the attention of the media and the fashion world, and placing her name alongside the biggest luxury brands.

First, Unique, Different. Just like Hublot! She single-handedly created a job for herself, followed her instincts, asserted her choice to share and talk about her life. Honoured several times by Forbes, her career path has even inspired a study by the prestigious Harvard University to understand her success.

In tune with her times, Chiara is leaving her mark on the world. She resolutely believes in her dreams. A dreamer she may be, but she is firmly rooted in her land and her roots. Chiara Ferragni draws her strength from the stability of her family, her parents and two sisters; she has gone on to recreate this strength through her own family, which she has built with Fedez.

So, is it natural talent, intuition or destiny? What if was a bit of all three? Whatever the case, what is certain is that she achieves firsts with her writing, she asserts her uniqueness, and her difference while retaining that very inclusive feeling of being the ‘girl next door…’

She is an entrepreneur who embodies the digital revolution and the arrival of social media. Chiara is a pioneer, she is constantly achieving firsts. With her fashion blog, launched 12 years ago, she was immediately considered the most influential and most famous blogger in the world. She created her own brand of shoes, then clothing in 2015— Chiara Ferragni Brand, —she was also the first to be listed as the world’s most powerful influencer. Indeed, there is no shortage of superlatives to describe her career and she is not afraid to use them. Both her real life and her digital world are filled with sharing, joy, values and optimism. She is unique, that’s for sure! She is proud of her uniqueness, after transforming her name into a brand, a trademark, a style and an inspiration. She also uses her platforms and visibility to help the causes that are close to her heart. Ultimately, what makes her different is that she has managed to turn her passion, her daily routine and her life into a true success story. She is also different for resembling a generation of women who live with the times and manage to combine several roles, without placing any filters between the different parts of their lives. With an Instagram community of 24.7 million followers, she shares her daily life as a wife, mother and entrepreneur openly and frankly. Chiara is an inspirational figure.
Chiara and Hublot, how it began


You may remember the pictures of Chiara Ferragni wearing the Big Bang Millenial Pink. A unisex watch with an inclusive message, produced as a limited edition of 200 pieces in a shade chosen by Lapo Elkann and designed in collaboration with Garage Italia. Since this project, Chiara and Hublot have simply understood that there were many similarities between their worlds.
So, get ready, because what Chiara & Hublot are preparing for you is likely to make a big impression, once again… First, Unique, Different!
To stay up-to-date, follow: @Hublot #Hublot

HUBLOT
Founded in Switzerland in 1980, HUBLOT is defined by its innovation, which began with the highly original combination of gold and rubber. This “Art of Fusion” stems from the imagination of its visionary Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, and has been driven forward by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe since 2012.

The release of the iconic, multi-award-winning Big Bang in 2005 paved the way for new flagship collections (Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang), with complications ranging from the simple to the highly sophisticated, establishing the extraordinary DNA of the Swiss watchmaking house and ensuring its impressive growth.
Keen to preserve its traditional and cutting-edge expertise, and guided by its philosophy to “Be First, Different and Unique”, the Swiss watchmaker is consistently ahead of the curve, through its innovations in materials (scratch-resistant Magic Gold, ceramics in vibrant colours, sapphire), and the creation of Manufacture movements (Unico, Meca-10, Tourbillon).
HUBLOT is fully committed to creating a Haute Horlogerie brand with a visionary future: a future which is fused with the key events of our times (FIFA World CupTM, UEFA Champions LeagueTM, UEFA EUROTM) and the finest ambassadors our era has to offer (Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, Pelé, Novak Djokovic).
Discover the HUBLOT universe at our network of boutiques located in key cities across the globe: Geneva, Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich and at HUBLOT.com

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Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

A high-precision chronograph  embellished with a unique natural Swiss stone dial  in support of the Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy

Chopard has once again committed itself to the Only Watch sale by offering a one-of-a-kind timepiece inspired by nature: the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch chronograph, specially created in support of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy. Since 2005, this charity project has brought together more than 50 watch manufacturers in a formidable creative drive.

Bearing ultimate testimony to the expertise and inventiveness of Chopard’s watchmakers, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is distinguished by its dial in Swiss granite from the Graubünden region, speckled with blue and green inclusions recalling the colours of the Alpine massif seen from the sky. It brings two novel touches to the Alpine Eagle collection: for the first time, a case made of beadblasted Lucent Steel A223 and a calf leather strap. Three patents have been filed for the chronometer-certified Chopard 03.05-C flyback chronograph movement that powers it.

An original design inspired by the beauty of the Alps

Above and beyond its technical prowess, the Alpine Eagle collection has been a guarantee of aesthetic finesse ever since its launch, entirely aligned with Louis Sullivan’s “form follows function” doctrine. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch fully reflects this principle. On the right-hand side, the chronograph pushers are subtly and discreetly integrated on either side of the protective crown guards so as to preserve the Alpine Eagle’s characteristic harmony of form and symmetry.

With the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch, harmony also reigns supreme on the dial, which is adorned with a carefully selected natural Swiss stone: an exceptional granite quarried in the canton of Graubünden. Its blue and green inclusions have been chosen to evoke the beauty of the Alpine forests and lakes as seen from the sky by an eagle.

One of these breathtaking landscapes is the Lauenensee. This lake in the canton of Bern is a place dear to Only Watch founder and organiser Luc Pettavino, who liked to go there with his son Paul, whose illness gave rise to this charity project. It is also an iconic landmark for Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who presented the Alpine Eagle collection there for the first time in 2019, along with his father and son. Their shared admiration for this place of refuge justifies the rich decorative work gracing the dial, and exuding a sophistication that contributes to the aesthetic originality and symbolic value of the watch.

The addition of the black counters for the 30-minute, small seconds and 12-hour indications – respectively placed at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock – is carefully designed to highlight the natural hue of the granite. To enhance the legibility of measurements, the dial transfers and the three hands linked to the chronograph function match these precious inclusions, as well as the tachymeter scale, also discreetly punctuated by blue-green transfers at the 100, 160 and 240 graduations. Divided into four steps, the scale features intervals varying from 5, 10, 20 or 40km/h per line. This arrangement facilitates the reading of average speed measurements.

The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the first timepiece in the collection to be fitted with a black calf leather strap.

A cutting-edge chronograph movement

The extra-wide 44 mm-diameter case of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is sculpted in Lucent Steel A223, an innovative steel alloy made from 70 percent recycled material and developed by Chopard for its anti-allergenic properties and its robustness, as well as its incomparable brilliance achieved through a meticulous resmelting process. In another first, this material has been beadblasted, thereby creating an even nobler texture and accentuating the avant-garde spirit of Lucent Steel A223.

At the heart of the case beats a sophisticated chronograph movement manufactured by Chopard’s Artisan Watchmakers and endowed with a precision chronometer, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Chopard Calibre 03.05-C has a 60-hour power reserve and also features an elaborate design guaranteeing accurate adjustments and optimal use of the timekeeping functions. Equipped with a column wheel, it represents the culmination of several technical innovations for which Chopard has filed three patents resulting from the daring approach of its research and development teams.

Firstly, it is equipped with a unidirectional gearing system that avoids energy losses while ensuring fast winding, a function particularly appreciated for chronographs which are known to be consistently energy-hungry. In addition, its vertical clutch mode guarantees an accurate start for time measurements. This chronograph calibre is also of the flyback variety, enabling smooth and seamless short-time measurements thanks to three elastic-armed pivoting hammers that facilitate zero-resetting the counters.

Chopard and Only Watch, a heart-felt partnership

The ninth edition of Only Watch – considered the world’s most important charity watchauction – will be held on 6 November in Geneva. More than 50 watch manufacturers have each donated a unique timepiece, specially created for the occasion. The profits from this sale will be entirely donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy to help fund research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic neuromuscular disease affecting 250,000 children, adolescents and young adults worldwide. Since its creation in 2005, Only Watch has already raised over 70 million Swiss francs.

“We are delighted to support the cause of major scientific research into a disease that affects so many children and adults”, says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “Ever since our first participation in 2005, this longstanding commitment has enabled us to develop unique and daring models stemming from lengthy aesthetic and technical research, endowed with powerful distinctive features that our collectors have not necessarily expected.”

The Alpine Eagle collection: reinterpreting an icon

Devised by three generations of gentlemen in the Scheufele family, the Alpine Eagle collection is a modern reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first horological creation by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in the late 1970s. With its pure and assertive design, Alpine Eagle enriches this heritage with powerful inspiration drawn from Nature. Featuring a round case with stylised flanks; a material exclusive to Chopard (Lucent Steel A223); a crown engraved with a compass rose; a bezel with eight functional indexed screws; a textured dial with deep colours and luminescent indications; and a seconds hand shaped like an eagle’s feather, Alpine Eagle radiates a resolutely contemporary look of refined elegance.

Chopard’s independence and integrated skills enables the Maison to perform the entire range of the collection’s production and assembly stages in its own workshops, from movement to bracelet as well as components and case.

Technical details

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

One-of-a-kind model

 

 

Case:

Beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Total diameter                                                                                 44.00 mm

Thickness                                                                                        13.15 mm

Water resistance                                                                            100 metres

Crown in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

with compass rose                                                                         8 mm

Crown guards and pushers in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Caseband in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Bezel in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223 with eight screws set at a tangent

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal and Only Watch logo

 

Movement

Mechanical movement with automatic winding                        Chopard 03.05-C

Column-wheel chronograph with integrated construction

Number of components                                                                310

Diameter                                                                                          28.80 mm

Thickness                                                                                        7.60 mm

Number of jewels                                                                           45

Frequency                                                                                       28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve                                                                                60 hours

Annual balance with balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve

Patented chronograph zero-resetting system with pivoting hammers and elastic arm

Patented seconds hand zero-resetting system

Patented vertical coupling clutch

Openworked tungsten alloy central rotor

Chromometer-certified (COSC)

 

Dial and hands

Dial made of granite from Switzerland’s Graubünden region

Black counters with white transfers

Applied rhodium-plated numerals and hour-markers enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®

Black inner bezel ring and chronograph counters

Rhodium-plated baton-type hours and minutes hands enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®

Rhodium-plated, turquoise-tipped arrow-type seconds hand with eagle feather counterweight

Rhodium-plated, turquoise-tipped chronograph counter hands

 

Functions

Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds

Semi-instantaneous date display between 4 and 5 o’clock

Chronograph with flyback function

30-minute counter at 3 o’clock

12-hour counter at 9 o’clock

Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Stop-seconds function

Strap and clasp

Black calfskin strap with black bridle stitching and beadblasted titanium inlay

Triple folding clasp in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Ref. 298609-3005 – in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

One-of-a-kind model created for Only Watch

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GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

Timepiece with four hands • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve • 30° inclined GREUBEL FORSEY balance wheel system

This creation combines fully – and visibly –sport and chronometry. Circular from above, its case reveals the unique arched ovoid shape from other angles, and its slim profile reinforces its dynamic new momentum

The oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. The perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6 mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance. Its 30° angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance and is prominently visible in action thanks to the unique movement architecture

Balancier S

The exceptional chronometry of this creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement’s reliability and chronometric performance at all times

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Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

  • A single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.
  • A new Grand Complication movement, Calibre 1991, which took four years to develop

Geneva, April 7th 2021 – A highly technical single-piece edition, the Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch stages sophisticated complications in a manner bearing a unique aesthetic signature. Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre 1991, a new Grand Complication movement
Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100. Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial. In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system. In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Nods to historical master-watchmakers
The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260. This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism. In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Haute Horlogerie finishes
Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial. The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal. The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

“Le Temps Céleste”
Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches
Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions
In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist
Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

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Sum-up

The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch demonstrates technical mastery of watches featuring extreme astronomic and aesthetic complexity, with the integration on the dial of rotating globes. Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991 stemming from four years of development, this single-piece edition features a completely original perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of dates, days and months. This timepiece also offers a rare three-dimensional representation of the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a full rotation in 24 hours, complete with a day/night indication. The regulation of the movement is based on the same concern for technicality expressed by a double-axis armillary tourbillon whose nested aluminium carriages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This timepiece is presented in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Reference
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre
1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

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FRANCK MULLER – The Grand Central Tourbillon

FRANCK MULLER – The Grand Central Tourbillon

The Grand Central is an outstanding new collection, where the Tourbillon is in the spotlight, placed at the center of the timepiece. This beautiful central Tourbillon is housed in a redesigned Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex™ case. One of the complexities of the collection lies in the fact that we had to totally rethink the watch in order to move the Tourbillon from its original position at 6 o’clock to the center of the watch.

The Grand Central Tourbillon

In addition to this attractive and surprising decentering, Franck Muller designers and watchmakers had to find an innovative system to display the time in the center of the watch. Thus, they found an innovative way to place the hour and second hands around the Tourbillon cage, highlighting the beauty of the piece. Extremely rare for a Franck Muller Tourbillon collection, the watch holds a self-winding movement, thanks to an eccentric micro rotor, offering 4 days of power reserve.

FRANCK MULLER - The Grand Central Tourbillon

FRANCK MULLER – The Grand Central Tourbillon

FRANCK MULLER – The Grand Central Tourbillon

Regarding the case, it has been redesigned so that the sapphire crystal goes all the way to the bracelet. The bezel which is separate from the case, allowing two-tone treatments. This design totally changes the aspect of the original Cintrée Curvex™ and fully highlights the beautiful curves of the watch. It also gives full visibility to the dial by limiting the amount of material used on the sides which is technically very difficult to achieve and giving the case a new modern line of life.

The open back allows to admire the pure traditional decorations as the Côte de Genève.

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Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Geneva, April 6, 2021  Close to 500 press conferences, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six expert-led panels… and a wealth of exceptional creations revealed by the 38 prestigious participating Maisons: Watches and Wonders 2021 opens tomorrow a for a particularly intense edition that will put watchmaking in the spotlight for over ten days. Online and
offline, from Geneva to Shanghai, follow this unmissable event live from anywhere in the world. Connect from tomorrow 7:00 CET to the
watchesandwonders.com digital platform.

Only hours to go before the curtain comes up on Watches and Wonders with a 2021 edition in two parts, starting with a digital format in Geneva, then over to Shanghai for an in-person Salon. For more than ten days, the eyes of the world will be on the creativity and expertise of the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Getting this horological marathon under way, Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be particularly intense with 38 participating brands – double last year – 500 press conferences, 400 presentations to retailers, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six panel discussions, also live each day, one-toone appointments, virtual tours and more. All part of the exciting program for the 23,000 visitors – media, retailers and end customers – who have been invited to Watches and Wonders Geneva by the brands for a fully digital Salon
experience.

Watchmaking puts on a “Morning Show” Going out live every morning from April 8 to 13 at 8:00 CET, the 2021 edition launches with the first “Morning Show” at 7:00 CET on April 7th. Presented by Belle Donati, a primetime news anchor for major European networks, this is where industry experts and other prestigious guests will be giving their informed insight. Analyses, summaries, product presentations, trend focuses, CEO interviews, expert views, panel discussions, highlights of the day and everything you need to know about watchmaking will be shared, live, each morning… not forgetting the “Minute LAB”, spotlight on the latest technology and innovations from the participating brands. No stone will be left unturned during these seven 40-minute shows, presented in English and simultaneously translated into simplified Chinese. The public will be able to watch the “Morning Show” live on the watchesandwonders.com platform or
catch up on the Watches and Wonders YouTube channel and social media.

Another highlight of the event will be the 42 launches and other “breaking news” from the 38 participating brands. Expect some major announcements, new watch presentations and exclusive product reveals, all on the new watchesandwonders.com platform.

A platform for debate and discussion And there is more: watchesandwonders.com is also a place for ideas and debate. Every day, from April 8 to 13 at 12:15 CET, influencers, brand leaders
and watchmaking experts will discuss the perspectives and challenges that lie ahead for the industry.: How can watchmaking contribute to overcome
resources scarcity and generate a positive impact? What will be the lasting consequences of the global pandemic? What role should technology and new
materials play? What impact can blockchain have on watchmaking? All these subjects will be covered in six 40-minute discussions, streamed live on the
platform, then available on replay for the public.

A gathering of the leading players in watchmaking worldwide, Watches and Wonders is set to become the standout event for 2021. Join watch enthusiasts around the world on watchesandwonders.com from 7:00 CET tomorrow and be part of this digital experience, before moving on to China, starting April 14!

BRANDS ON THE WATCHESANDWONDERS.COM DIGITAL PLATFORM
PARTICIPATING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BVLGARI | CARL F. BUCHERER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CORUM | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GREUBEL FORSEY | H. MOSER & CIE. | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS MOINET | LOUIS VUITTON | MAURICE LACROIX | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | ORIS | PANERAI | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | PURNELL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS |ROLEX | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | ZENITH

BRANDS EXHIBITING AT WATCHES AND WONDERS SHANGHAI EXHIBITING BRANDS | CARTIER | ROLEX | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | PIAGET | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | CHOPARD | PANERAI | ULYSSE NARDIN | ROGER DUBUIS | MONTBLANC | TUDOR | BAUME & MERCIER | H. MOSER & CIE. | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | PURNELL

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An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet
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An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time.

Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silk-like pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The watches come with a full 5-year warranty and are offered in three unique choices:

– A model with an 18K Moonshine™ gold dial featuring an embossed silk pattern and Roman numerals.
– A model with a white dial, featuring embossed Roman numerals in 18K Moonshine™ gold.
– A model with an 18K white gold rhodium-plated dial, fully paved with a snow setting of 768 single-cut diamonds. The markings appear on the front crystal.

As always, each Trésor is defined by the 38 full-cut diamonds that curve along the sides of the case, as well as an additional full-cut diamond set on the crown, which itself is engraved with an OMEGA flower and filled with red liquid ceramic.

Turning the watches over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits just behind polished mirror casebacks that are embellished by a unique metalized pattern.

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