Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante
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Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

Technical Features :

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed s

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

 

 

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

 

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

 

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

 

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

 

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

 

 

Technical Features :

 

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition –

 

 

ee-through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition –

 

 

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Patek Philippe – Minute Repeater – 5303R-001

Patek Philippe reasserts its grand complications expertise

With the enrichment of the current collection by three models – the new Ref. 5303 as the first Patek Philippe minute repeater that presents the striking mechanism on the dial side as well as a reinterpretation of the legendary Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph and the redesigned classic Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph – the Genevan manufacture yet again leverages its virtuosity in the king’s class of watchmaking artistry. These three timepieces represent a perfect meld of tradition and innovation. Paired with beautiful finesse in looks and features, they enrich the already extensive lineup of grand complications.

Patek Philippe – Minute Repeater – 5303R-001

As far back as 1839, when the company was founded, one of the first timepieces crafted in the manufacture was a quarter repeater that can now be admired at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. As the 19th century continued to unfold, Patek Philippe further pursued its passion for grand complications, crafted many watches of this type, and received several patents for technical optimizations. In the 20th century, the manufacture earned a legendary reputation for so-called supercomplicated pocket watches that were made for the American collectors James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. and featured chiming functions as well as elaborate astronomical displays. At the same time, Patek Philippe was involved in miniaturizing grand complications so they could be worn on the wrist, as evidenced in 1925 by the first known wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. In the last decades of the 20th century, the manufacture again celebrated a milestone in this exceptional watch category and presented two pocket watches that the world had never seen before: the Calibre 89 (33 complications) that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for 25 years, and the Star Caliber 2000 with 21 complications. In 2001, the art of miniaturizing highly elaborate mechanisms found its ultimate expression with the launch of the Sky Moon Tourbillon (12 complications) and subsequently, in 2014, with the Grandmaster Chime that with 20 complications would become Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch.

An especially challenging philosophy

Today, Patek Philippe has one of the most comprehensive collections of regularly produced grand complications, including minute repeaters with perpetual calendars, astronomical watches, timepieces with tourbillons and models that combine several of these highly coveted functions. As the outcome of know-how transfers from one generation to the next and underpinned with the results of high-end research, these watches follow two fundamental principles that are highly important to Patek Philippe. One of them is to rise to the challenge of accommodating a maximum of technical complexity in a minimal volume (smallest possible height and diameter), allowing the design of very slender cases that project timeless elegance. Secondly, each complication – no matter how elaborate – must be simple to operate for the user and be a role model of convenience, functional integrity, and legibility. The three grand complications of 2020 illustrate this philosophy very convincingly. They embody a level of craftsmanship that makes each Patek Philippe a precious work of art.


Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater An extravaganza for eyes and ears

Since it made its first pocket watch with a minute repeater (1845), Patek Philippe has established itself as one of the gifted interpreters of the music of time. This remarkable know- how comes to the fore even in the most extraordinary creations, such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch featuring a minute repeater with cathedral gongs or the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with five chiming functions including two patented global debuts. The manufacture also offers the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeaters, watches with classic or cathedral gongs and models featuring a minute repeater with or without additional complications (perpetual calendar, tourbillon, World Time, chronograph). But never before had Patek Philippe crafted a minute repeater with a striking mechanism that was visible on the dial side.

The Ref. 5303 was unveiled in 2019 in a limited edition of 12 watches as a world debut on the occasion of the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”.
Now, a slightly modified version of the Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon has become part of the current Patek Philippe collection. This new complication for enthusiasts of repeater timepieces stands out with its open architecture without a conventional dial. The repeater mechanism – for the first time with the hammers and gongs – can be admired in action without removing the watch from the wrist. This is a further expression of Patek Philippe’s customer- centric development philosophy. The transparency aspect also applies to the tourbillon: the back side of its cage can be seen beneath the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In this veritably perfect composition, the filigreed steel parts glisten against the backdrop of the rose gilt plate.

The aesthetic of the manually wound caliber R TO 27 PS was subtly reworked to emphasize its appeal. For instance, certain components were pierced, as is common for skeletonized movements. Of course, Patek Philippe also mobilized its heritage in the manual finissage of movement parts: it decorated the plate with Genevan circular graining, applied a delicate perlage to the recesses, and decorated the hammers with a circular satin finish.

The inimitable rose-gold case sports a wide, cambered and polished bezel as well as white- gold inlays with foliage engravings that grace the caseband and the strap lugs. The white-gold slide in the left-hand case flank that activates the minute repeater features the same motif. The hour circle is black-lacquered sapphire-crystal rim with powdered rose-gold markers. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back and is framed by a white- gold rim. Its open-worked decoration echoes the case inlays and the repeater slide.
This fantastic lesson in watchmaking artistry, elegance, and manual finissage is complemented with the unique sound that is typical of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces. As is the case for every Patek Philippe minute repeater, this melody of time is personally rated with great care by manufacture president Thierry Stern.

Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph A new face with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial

Apart from the minute repeater and the tourbillon, the triad at the pinnacle of the most elaborate horological complications also includes the split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 124’824); since 1923, it occupies a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection. The Ref. 5370, the first split-seconds chronograph endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS was launched in 2015 with a platinum case and a black enamel dial. Coveted by connoisseurs, this grand complication has now been subtly upgraded with a new blue face with glossy finish that reflects Patek Philippe’s proud tradition in Grand Feu enamel dials. It is an oeuvre of unmatched chromatic intensity that is made by hand on the basis of an 18K gold dial plate.

The dial is superbly legible as befits an instrument with a decidedly technical personality. The hours and minutes are tracked by slender leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings and applied Breguet numerals in white gold. The results of short-time measurements are readable with the same precision and speed: the sweep chronograph and rattrapante hands as well as the instantaneous 30-minute counter hand contrast as clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.

The two-phase chronograph movement with two pushers for the chronograph functions and a rattrapante pusher integrated in the crown at 3 o’clock is an impressive example of how tradition meets innovation. The classic elements of the basic architecture are the manual winder, dual-column-wheel control, and the horizontal wheel clutch. Nonetheless, it is a 21st- century movement endowed with extensive optimization details and patented innovations as well as an advanced rattrapante mechanism.

The elegant polished platinum case with a concave bezel and satin-finished flank recesses is worn on an alligator strap in shiny night blue secured by a platinum fold-over clasp.
As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is graced with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces its predecessor with the black enamel dial, presenting a new combination of superb craftsmanship and watchmaking artistry.

Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph A majestic classic with a new yellow-gold personality

As the heir of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte”-style bracelet. Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication by the Ref. 5270, cased in yellow gold for the first time. It is a very elegant outfit for this timeless watch that pairs a concave bezel with two- tier lugs.

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts). The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales secured with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous platinum and rose-gold models to accommodate the individual preferences of aficionados of Patek Philippe grand complications.

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ANNICK WOUNGLY, the designer behind the senora sol y estrella by Cuervo y Sobrinos

When Cuervo y Sobrinos decided to create a new lady’s watch, it looked to its spiritual home for inspiration. The Señora Sol y Estrellas refers to the sun and stars which look down on Havana’s inhabitants.
ANNICK WOUNGLY, THE DESIGNER BEHIND THE SEÑORA SOL Y ESTRELLA

The model was designed by female watch designer, Annick Woungly, who was born in Havana, close to Cuervo y Sobrinos’s inaugural boutique.

With the advent of the Señora Sol y Estrellas, Annick has sought to reference the clear skies of Cuba and capture the vibrant hues synonymous with life on this idyllic Caribbean island where sleep is not a priority.

As the sun descends and seemingly melts into the horizon, daylight begins to disappear. In most parts of the world, this period signifies the end of the day, a time to retire and enjoy some rest. However, in Cuba, the arrival of darkness indicates the party is about to begin.

When the sun vacates the clear skies, the stars come out to play, illuminating Havana’s streets with a warm glow. The humid night air, the smell of home-cooked food and the sound of latin beats provide the backdrop for this enchanting tapestry of colour, dance, vitality and, most of all, life. Havana never sleeps, merely the tempo changes ever so slightly.

 

Annick Woungly, a female watch designer, was born in Havana, close to San Rafael Avenue where Cuervo y Sobrinos opened its first boutique in 1882. Today, she lives in the Jura, close to the Swiss Manufacture. One day a friend told her about a Swiss watch firm with Cuban heritage and she wanted to know more, culminating in her making contact with Massimo Rossi, the CEO of Cuervo y Sobrinos.

The meeting of both parties was fortuitous as Massimo wanted to create a new lady’s watch designed by a female designer. Moreover, like Cuervo y Sobrinos, Annick has a deep understanding of both Cuban culture and Swiss watchmaking. The synergies were clear to see.

The meeting of both parties was fortuitous as Massimo wanted to create a new lady’s watch designed by a female designer. Moreover, like Cuervo y Sobrinos, Annick has a deep understanding of both Cuban culture and Swiss watchmaking. The synergies were clear to see.

The Señora Sol y Estrellas is offered in four dial variants, some more vibrant than others. Each version features a depiction of the sun at the centre of the dial, a reference to the orange orbe in the sky that influences life on the Caribbean

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LM101 MB&F x H. Moser an unprecedented collaboration…

In this crowning expression of the ties binding H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F for more than ten years, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser have composed a duet recital in the form of an exceptional concerto for devotees of fine watchmaking. For the first time in its history, MB&F is contributing to a Performance Art endeavour flowing in both directions in an entirely reciprocal manner. Within this framework, the two Maisons are co-signing a pair of creations whose DNA blends the main characteristics of each. A story of friendship between two men against a backdrop of shared values, for the pleasure of building and sharing, and then of jointly presenting the results of this extraordinary project.

UNITED WE STAND AMONG independents

through UNPRECEDENTED COLLABORATION

PROJECT ORIGINS

Moser & Cie. and MB&F are both independent, human-scale Swiss companies. They are run by two passionate personalities, longstanding acquaintances who both appreciate and respect each other on both a personal and professional level. The brands have in fact been working together for more than ten years, with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. – notably supplying MB&F’s balance springs. It is therefore not surprising that MB&F asked Edouard Meylan to take part as a “friend” to help create a Performance Art Piece. The latest aspect of this collaboration lies in its being a two-way street. Maximilian Büsser says: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.” In a spirit of sharing and openness, while cultivating the notion of strength in unity, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have thus jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series. This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. By pooling their strengths, these two competing yet friendly brands are working to harness the combined strengths of talented artisans, entirely in keeping with the philosophy adopted by MB&F.

LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time. It is therefore no coincidence that MB&F has chosen to revisit this model – one of the purest and “simplest” in its collection – since it is indeed minimalism that guided the creation of the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser model. Like H. Moser & Cie. and the “back to basics” approach embodied in its Concept watch series, MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and indeed to the very origins of horology, when only the movements were signed. In the same understated spirit, it has abandoned the floating domed subdials to display the hours and minutes as well as the 45-hour power reserve by means of hands placed directly on the main dial. The fumé dials borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. can thus be expressed in complete freedom, also enhanced by a refined bezel. Four fumé dials have been chosen for the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, of course, the famous Funky Blue fumé. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F.

The mesmerising large suspended balance wheel continues to take centre stage, albeit completely redesigned on the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser in order to highlight the beauty of the fumé dials. This beating heart, which represents the quintessence of watchmaking in the eyes of Maximilian Büsser, has been fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG. Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimised isochronism. Through the case back, the curved sapphire crystal reveals the ‘engine’ driving this timepiece. Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen, the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to enhance its beauty.

ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON H. MOSER X MB&F

Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maison’s identity, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock. Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, the same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome. Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring.

Another reference to MB&F’s identity lies in the tilted dials, which H Moser & Cie. has adopted for its hour and minute subdials. These are inclined at 40° so that the owner of the watch is the only one to whom it reveals the secret of time, and mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other. As Edouard Meylan explains: “We have Moserized the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner”. Available in five different versions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F model comes in a steel case topped by Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials, all of the fumé variety.

FRUITFUL COOPERATION

Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are delighted with this rewarding collaborative project, which has achieved results far exceeding their expectations. In addition to the beauty of the models created in tandem, two bodies of expertise and two sets of DNA have been blended and mutually enriched. The two different communities of the two Maisons have also pooled their skills in a wonderful spirit of openness and transparency. This experience leaves Edouard and Maximilian with a keen sense of coming back to a sense of pleasure: the pleasure of working together and of creating.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel: Funky Blue fumé dial, Cosmic Green fumé dial, Red fumé dial and a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

Engine

Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F

Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen

Manual winding with single mainspring barrel

Power reserve: 45 hours

Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement

Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring

Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz

221 components

23 jewels

Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks

Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges

Functions

Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator

Large balance wheel suspended above the dial

Case

Available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel 316, including a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

Diameter: 40.0 mm

Height: 16.0 mm

35 components

High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Dial

Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or Aqua Blue fumé with sunburst pattern

Strap

Hand-stitched calfskin strap

Steel 316L and titanium folding buckle

MB&F – GENESIS OF A CONCEPT LABORATORY

Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. With almost 20 remarkable calibres forming the base of the critically acclaimed Horological and Legacy Machines, MB&F is continuing to follow Founder and Creative Director Maximilian Büsser’s vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking.

After 15 years managing prestigious watch brands, Maximilian Büsser resigned from his Managing Director position at Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals that Büsser both respects and enjoys working with.

In 2007, MB&F unveiled its first Horological Machine, HM1. HM1’s sculptured, three-dimensional case and beautifully finished engine (movement) set the standard for the idiosyncratic Horological Machines that have followed – all Machines that tell the time, rather than Machines to tell the time. The Horological Machines have explored space (HM2, HM3, HM6), the sky (HM4, HM9), the road (HM5, HMX, HM8) and the animal kingdom (HM7, HM10).

In 2011, MB&F launched its round-cased Legacy Machine collection. These more classical pieces – classical for MB&F, that is – pay tribute to nineteenth-century watchmaking excellence by reinterpreting complications from the great horological innovators of yesteryear to create contemporary objets d’art. LM1 and LM2 were followed by LM101, the first MB&F Machine to feature a movement developed entirely in-house. LM Perpetual, LM Split Escapement and LM Thunderdome broadened the collection further. 2019 marked a turning point with the creation of the first MB&F Machine dedicated to women: LM FlyingT. MB&F generally alternates between launching contemporary, resolutely unconventional Horological Machines and historically inspired Legacy Machines.

As the F stands for Friends, it was only natural for MB&F to develop collaborations with artists, watchmakers, designers and manufacturers they admire.

This brought about two new categories: Performance Art and Co-creations. While Performance Art pieces are MB&F machines revisited by external creative talent, Co-creations are not wristwatches but other types of machines, engineered and crafted by unique Swiss Manufactures from MB&F ideas and designs. Many of these Co-creations, such as the clocks created with L’Epée 1839, tell the time while collaborations with Reuge and Caran d’Ache generated other forms of mechanical art.

To give all these machines an appropriate platform, Büsser had the idea of placing them in an art gallery alongside various forms of mechanical art created by other artists, rather than in a traditional storefront. This brought about the creation of the first MB&F M.A.D.Gallery (M.A.D. stands for Mechanical Art Devices) in Geneva, which would later be followed by M.A.D.Galleries in Taipei, Dubai and Hong Kong.

There have been distinguished accolades reminding us of the innovative nature of MB&F’s journey so far. To name a few, there have been no less than 5 Grand Prix awards from the famous Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: in 2019, the prize for Best Ladies Complication went to the LM FlyingT, in 2016, LM Perpetual won the Best Calendar Watch award; in 2012, Legacy Machine No.1 was awarded both the Public Prize (voted for by horology fans) and the Best Men’s Watch Prize (voted for by the professional jury). In 2010, MB&F won Best Concept and Design Watch for the HM4 Thunderbolt. In 2015 MB&F received a Red Dot: Best of the Best award – the top prize at the international Red Dot Awards – for the HM6 Space Pirate.

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HUBLOT LOVES TOKYO! Swiss luxury watch brand Hublot celebrates its 40th anniversary with another Big Bang!

Swiss luxury watch brand Hublot celebrates its 40th anniversary with another Big Bang! After Place Vendome in Paris, Rue du Rhône in Geneva, 5Th Avenue in New York City, New Bond Street in London, Heritage in Hong Kong Tsim Sha Tsui district, now comes Chuo-dori Street in Tokyo for the brand world’s biggest Flagship Boutique.

HUBLOT LOVES TOKYO!


In 2020, Hublot is turning 40! During this anniversary year Hublot has a reason to celebrate, as on May 26, its largest flagship store, the Hublot Boutique Ginza, will open. After Place Vendome in Paris, Rue  du Rhône in Geneva, 5Th Avenue in New York City, New Bond Street in London, Heritage in Hong Kong, now comes Chuo-dori Street in Tokyo.The swiss luxury watchmaker is now present on an iconic location on Chuo-dori Street. The new boutique, also called the “Hublot tower” thanks to its 56-meter-high dynamic façade, will offer Hublot a stylish, luxurious and open space. The Hublot Boutique Ginza perfectly expresses The Art of Fusion, the brand concept focused on the blending of materials and ideas. Across three floors, customers will be immersed in the world of Hublot. Visitors will find the whole collection displayed on the ground floor, the VIP experience room on the second floor and the exhibition area on the third floor.

“We are honored to celebrate the opening of our new flagship Boutique in Tokyo. In only 40 years, Hublot has seen many firsts and many successes, and today is again another milestone for our Maison. We have long had presence on the most prestigious streets in the world’s metropolises and from today in Japan too, our number one market. The “Hublot Tower” is a symbol of the fusion of modernity and tradition that we ardently pursue and uphold in all our actions.” -Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot

The 56-meter high dynamic façade is the most idiosyncratic and artistic façade of the brand’s boutiques. The laminated glass panels scattered with mirrored pieces exhibits different sights: it reflects sunlight to create a beautiful glitter during the daytime, and at nighttime a luxurious glow appears to emanate from within.

The interior of the boutique, boasting the brand’s largest retail space at 330 square meters, reflects one of the important elements of Hublot’s watchmaking—its unique use of materials. The spacious boutique expresses on three floors the contemporary style so dear to Hublot: leather chairs, ebony tables, floors of marble or carpet, and an impressive staircase with sides made of zigzag laser-cut mirrored stainless steel.

Another highlight of the boutique is the crystal chandelier installed on the vaulted ceiling reaching more than 9 metres high, which can be rarely found in Japan. The entrance hall is full of a sense of openness and welcomes customers.

Each floor of Hublot Boutique Ginza expresses the fusion of quality materials and contemporary, luxurious beauty by boldly displayed pop artworks depicting Hublot timepieces and movements on the walls, stretching from floor to ceiling.



Hublot Boutique Ginza Overview
            Opening:                                                                     May 26, 2020
            Address:                                                                      5-9, Ginza 3-chome, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
            Telephone:                                                                  03-3538-5055
            Business hours:                                                          11:00 – 20:00
            Total store space                                                         330 m2
            Floors                                                                            3
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160 ЛЕТ – НЕ ВОЗРАСТ: К СВОЕМУ ЮБИЛЕЮ TAG HEUER ВЫПУСКАЕТ СОВРЕМЕННУЮ ВЕРСИЮ КУЛЬТОВЫХ ЧАСОВ HEUER CARRERA

По случаю своего 160-летия швейцарская часовая мануфактура TAG Heuer выпускает лимитированную серию TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, в которой соединились дизайн 60-х и технологии 21 века.

marca de relojería suiza de lujo

marca de relojería suiza de lujo

160 ЛЕТ – НЕ ВОЗРАСТ: К СВОЕМУ ЮБИЛЕЮ TAG HEUER ВЫПУСКАЕТ СОВРЕМЕННУЮ ВЕРСИЮ КУЛЬТОВЫХ ЧАСОВ HEUER CARRERA

Ла-Шо-де-Фон, Швейцария, 15 января 2020 г.
Часовая мануфактура TAG Heuer (первоначальное название Heuer) была основана Эдуардом Хоэром в швейцарском городе Сент-Имье в 1860 году. За прошедшие 160 лет сменилась целая эпоха, но остались неизменными инновационный дух знаменитого бренда, его мастерство в создании лучших образцов высокого часового искусства. В этом году в центре внимания – обновленная коллекция TAG Heuer Carrera, в которую входят самые элегантные хронографы. Культовые часы, впервые выпущенные почти 60 лет назад, олицетворяют смелый характер бренда и подчеркивают эффективность его многолетнего сотрудничества с миром автоспорта.

marca de relojería suiza de lujo

marca de relojería suiza de lujo

Свой юбилейный год TAG Heuer открывает презентацией специальной серии часов TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition: они будут выпущены тиражом 1860 экземпляров. С июня 2020 года новую модель можно будет приобрести во всех странах мира.

Открытие юбилейного года: лимитированная серия TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition

В 1962 году Джека Хоэра, на тот момент занимающего пост генерального директора компании, заинтересовала история легендарного ралли «Каррера Панамерикана» (исп. La Carrera Panamericana) – оно стало знаменитым благодаря своей живописной и чрезвычайно опасной трассе. Хоэр сразу понял, что слово «carrera» (которое на испанском в зависимости от контекста может означать «дорога», «гонка», «карьера» или «путь») – отличное название для новой модели часов. И год спустя компания выпустила первые хронографы Heuer Carrera.

Будучи поклонником современного стиля Джек Хоэр стремился к чистым линиям и строгим пропорциям. Heuer Carrera должны были стать идеальными часами для гонщиков, позволяющими мгновенно определять время в моменты сильнейшего эмоционального напряжения. Прототипом юбилейных часов, символизирующих 160-летие часовой компании, стала знаменитая монохромная модель с серебряным циферблатом и тремя счетчиками, декорированными в технике azurage. Впервые она была выпущена в 1964 году. Сегодня можно говорить о том, что историческая модель (ее еще обозначают номером 2447S) благодаря целому ряду технических преобразований получила новую жизнь – теперь уже в 21 веке.

Многие особенности дизайна нового хронографа, выполненного из нержавеющей стали (в том числе безупречно элегантный циферблат, полированные кнопки и корпус), «цитируют» оригинальную модель. Вместе с тем юбилейный хронограф обладает и рядом отличий: несколько измененная форма, более крупный размер корпуса (39 мм вместо 36 мм), иное расположение постоянного счетчика секунд – теперь он находится положении «6 часов», а не «9 часов», как у оригинальной модели, что объясняется разницей в конструкции калибра Valjoux 72, который использовался в 1963 году, и современного механизма Calibre Heuer 02 у новой модели. Кроме этого, изменились центральные часовая и минутная стрелки: они получили фацетированные грани и люминесцентное покрытие SuperLuminova® бежевого цвета. На светлом циферблате выделяются безошибочно узнаваемые логотипы «Carrera» и «HEUER». Выпуклое сапфировое стекло придает новому хронографу Heuer Carrera винтажный стиль, напоминая дизайн исторической модели.

Часы дополняет лаконичный черный ремешок из кожи аллигатора. Тираж юбилейной серии составляет 1860 экземпляров, указывая на год основания мануфактуры Heuer. На задней крышке корпуса выгравированы надписи «One of 1860» и «LIMITED EDITION». Через сапфировое стекло с винтовым креплением можно наблюдать за работой обновленного ротора – он украшен юбилейной надписью, выполненной с помощью гравировки и покрытой лаком. Часы представлены в специальном футляре.

Мануфактурный калибр Calibre Heuer 02

При создании часов коллекции TAG Heuer Carrera применялись самые передовые технологии собственной разработки. Ключевым отличием исторической модели 2447S и ее современной вариации является сам часовой механизм. Новый хронограф оснащен мануфактурным калибром Heuer 02. Этот сложнейший часовой механизм был разработан и изготовлен в мастерской TAG Heuer, расположенной в Шевене (Швейцария). Калибр состоит из 168 компонентов (включая колонное колесо и вертикальную передачу, которые отличают хронографы усовершенствованной конструкции и присутствуют в премиальных мануфактурных механизмах), обладает увеличенным запасом хода в 80 часов.

Калибр Calibre Heuer 02, разработанный мануфактурой TAG Heuer, имеет целый ряд преимуществ:

  • увеличенный запас хода составляет 80 часов, что на 30 часов превышает возможности калибра Calibre Heuer 01;
  • уменьшенный размер позволяет использовать более тонкий корпус, что повышает удобство ношения. Толщина механизма составляет всего 6,95 мм (толщина калибра Heuer 01 – 7,30 мм);
  • вертикальная передача повышает точность запуска/остановки хронографа и хода его секундной стрелки, а также исключает потерю времени при использовании хронографа;
  • колонное колесо управляет переключением функций хронографа и обеспечивает оптимальный уровень точности и надежности – его можно «услышать» по равномерным импульсам, возникающим при нажатии кнопок хронографа;
  • частота колебаний баланса с4 Гц (28 800 колебаний в час) обеспечивает точность и высокую стабильность хода.

За десятилетия, прошедшие с момента выпуска первой модели TAG Heuer Carrera, которая изначально создавалась для профессиональных гонщиков, коллекция высокотехнологичных, выразительных по своему дизайну и вместе с тем элегантных хронографов претерпела множество изменений. Однако тесная связь Carrera с автоспортом, особая роль, которую она играет в часовом мире, и инновационный характер будут и впредь определять ее развитие.

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Four leading ladies join OMEGA in Shanghai for the launch of the new Constellation “Manhattan”

Four leading ladies join OMEGA in Shanghai for the launch of the new Constellation “Manhattan”

An unforgettable night with Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi.

It was an evening of true star quality, as OMEGA launched its new Constellation “Manhattan” collection at a special event in Shanghai. Hosted at the city’s dazzling Expo I–Pavilion, the celebrations introduced a full makeover for the iconic Constellation timepieces and also brought four of OMEGA’s most inspirational women to the stage.

Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi arrived as the glamorous guests of honour for the evening – each representing the beauty, sophistication and excellence that the Constellation collection is known for.

Standing alongside the four OMEGA ambassadors was Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of OMEGA, who said, “The Constellation has always been admired by women all around the world. No matter the country, it has appealed to ladies of all backgrounds and styles. To celebrate that spirit, we’ve been lucky to have not one, but four of our closest friends here together. Having Nicole, Cindy, Shishi and Alessandra at one single event shows how much love there is for the Constellation.”

The Constellation collection has long been OMEGA’s symbol of unrivalled precision and elegance in watchmaking. It was the “Manhattan” design in 1982 that introduced the modern look and today’s new collection has enhanced many of the most famous features. More than 100 new models will be made available to customers, each of them with subtle updates including bevelled edges for a refined feminine look, slender bezels and the iconic “claws”, which now fit more snugly to the case. More dial colours and case sizes have also been created, including watches in 25 mm, 28 mm and 29 mm.

Stepping inside the venue, it was clear for guests to see the evening’s inspiration, with an exquisite backdrop of white and gold that mirrored the “Manhattan” skyline. Amongst the many shapes and textures, the new timepieces were on display and ready for a close-up look.

Cindy Crawford has a very unique connection to the Constellation, as she was part of the collection’s redesign in 1995. Speaking in Shanghai, she said, “I’ve now seen this collection evolve over the past several decades and I’m always impressed by OMEGA’s new designs. It’s such a classic watch, yet these new models prove just how relevant it remains today.”


Alessandra Ambrosio, one of the world’s most recognised super-models, said, “I love fashion that is timeless. The Constellation is the perfect example. It has history and style, and it’s a watch that never loses its charm. That’s the sign of a truly great design.”

Nicole Kidman is another watch fan who knows OMEGA and the Constellation very well. Speaking to guests, she said, “I’ve known OMEGA a long time and they’re a brand that cares about quality and advancing their products. We can clearly see that in the Constellation. These watches are made especially for women and they have been able to adapt and change in the most subtle and elegant way.”


The Chinese actress, Liu Shishi, one of OMEGA’s newest ambassadors, said, “It’s my honour to welcome everyone here in my home country. It’s a privilege to be in Shanghai and to share the stage with such great women.”

The special evening concluded with a musical performance by the pianist Stephen Ridley as well as the revelation of OMEGA’s new Constellation advertising campaign. The imagery, shot by renowned photographer Damon Baker, features Cindy, Nicole, Alessandra and Liu Shishi, all together in one powerful and beautiful portrait.

For the evening, Cindy, Nicole, Alessandra and Shishi each wore a model from the new Constellation “Manhattan” Jewellery Collection. These 28 mm timepieces are distinguished by their dials made from Australian white opal. The hours are marked by 12 baguette-cut ruby indexes – beautifully matching the red dresses worn by the OMEGA ambassadors.

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