Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep
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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

A powerful continuation of OMEGA’s diving legacy the watch, and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design inspired by a submersible’s
viewport.

In April of that year, three Ultra Deep watches joined explorer Victor Vescovo on a mission to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean. Originally recorded as 10,925 m (35,843 ft), the depth was later updated to 10,935 m (35,876 ft) and is the deepest any human or watch has ever dived. Two of the Ultra Deep watches were attached to the submersible’s robotic arm, while another was strapped to a data-gathering unit known as a Lander. Thanks to their ingenious build and design, all three watches completed the 12-hour dive without a problem and surfaced completely unscathed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

The New Watch in Titanium

Taking the next step in state-of-the-art ocean design, 2022 sees the release of seven new models: OMEGA’s Ultra Deep collection. Waterresistant to 6,000 m (20,000 ft), the 45.5 mm
range is led by a bold version crafted in sandblasted and forged grade 5 titanium. To achieve its unique personality, the watch features a brushed ceramic bezel with a Liquidmetal™ diving scale, along with the distinctive “Manta Lugs” and streamlined asymmetrical case that are reminiscent of the original Ultra Deep model. They support a striped NATO strap, in cyan and black, made from polyamide yarn, sourced from 100% recycled fishing nets. Fixed to the wrist with a loop and buckle in grade 5 Titanium.

Beneath the protuberant and domed sapphire crystal, the dial has been produced in black ceramised titanium with cyan numerals and a blued gradient on the central seconds hand. Turning the watch over reveals a grade 5 titanium caseback featuring a black laser-engraved Sonar emblem, with the iconic OMEGA Seahorse at its centre. The words “Divers’ watch 6000 m for saturation diving”” are included to reaffirm the watch’s adventurous credentials.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

The New Watches in O-MEGASTEEL

Six models in the Ultra Deep collection have been built in brand new O-MEGASTEEL. This highperformance stainless steel alloy once again proves OMEGA’s leadership in the production of
advanced materials, with qualities that surpass the normal standard. O-MEGASTEEL is notable for its superior strength, whiter colour and incomparable shine. It also offers exceptional
resistance to corrosion for a longer-lasting appearance.

Mounted on each O-MEGASTEEL symmetrical case is a ceramic bezel with diving scale, as well as a protuberant and domed sapphire crystal, which is neatly bevelled and designed for maximum strength under pressure. A new crown guard is also integrated to the watch’s case, assuring protection when deep under water.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

The choices include white or gradient-effect dials, which transition from grey-to-black or blue-to-black, and include a glossy finish as well as 18K white gold hands and indexes. Each piece includes a grade 5 titanium caseback with the same laser-engraved Sonar emblem and wording as the full titanium model.

Each design is completed by either a rubber strap or an O-MEGASTEEL bracelet. The rubber straps feature a technical diving suit structure on the upper surface, along with an O-MEGASTEEL
buckle. For the metal bracelets, OMEGA’s patented extendable foldover rack-and-pusher has been included, with a complementary length adjustment and an extra diver extension – perfect
for use around a thick wetsuit.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep

Depth Tested and Certified Driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, all watches in this collection are Master Chronometer certified at Switzerland’s highest standard of precision, performance and magnetic-resistance. What’s more, OMEGA’s Ultra Deep was ocean-tested at a depth of 6,269 m (20,567 ft) in the Mariana Trench in 2021.

The markings “For Saturation Diving” are included to meet the ISO 6425 standard for saturation divers’ watches which is certified by Switzerland’s independent testing body METAS – a premiere in the watch industry!

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HUBLOT CAMPAIGN WITH KYLIAN MBAPPÉ

HUBLOT CAMPAIGN WITH KYLIAN MBAPPÉ

Considered one of the world’s best footballers, Kylian Mbappé is in the prime of his life, a living embodiment of passion, success and the power of dreams. Multidisciplinary creative director Ezra Petronio captures the player’s excellence, applying an uncompromising, timeless yet contemporary aesthetic that eschews ostentation in the latest Hublot advertising campaign.

The global player Mbappé, renowned for his sporting intelligence, spirit and dedication, is a true icon of world football; and yet, it was on the intensity of his direct gaze and his openness that the internationally-acclaimed photographer chose to focus for the new campaign.

Mbappé, Ezra and Hublot are united by shared values including a long-standing respect for creativity, work, integrity and the quest for perfection.

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“One of Not Many Mentorship Program” devoted to passing on skills: A new expression of the mentorship program in collaboration with Abbey Road Studios and Woodkid

“One of Not Many Mentorship Program” devoted to passing on skills: A new expression of the mentorship program in collaboration with Abbey Road Studios and Woodkid

  • Transmitting and perpetuating skills is core to Vacheron Constantin’s concerns.
  • The Maison is pursuing its mentorship program that begun in the Middle East.
  • Partners since 2018, the watch Manufacture and Abbey Road Studios offer a unique opportunity for young music talents to record a track in the legendary London studios.
  • A first young budding artist has been chosen by Woodkid, the program’s mentor.

Geneva, 16 March 2022 –Vacheron Constantin is continuing its mentorship program initiated in the Middle East with the entrepreneurship support provided to six young Emirati women. Based on the sharing of skills and expertise, a tradition deeply cherished by the Maison, this new “One of Not Many Mentorship Program” is part of the creative collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and Abbey Road Studios, which will enable and support the development of, and record all the One of Not Many tracks from the program’s grassroots artists.  Up-and-coming musical talents will benefit from the knowledge of an internationally renowned mentor, Woodkid.

Sharing knowledge and passing on skills lies at the heart of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage – which all began with the founding of the Maison on 17 September 1755, when the young Genevan master-watchmaker Jean-Marc Vacheron hired his first apprentice. This notarised deed bears the oldest known mention of the first watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and represents Vacheron Constantin’s birth certificate. Since then, apprenticeship, training and the sharing of knowledge has always been a mission and a responsibility within the Manufacture.

To broaden the scope and impact of this mission, the Maison set up its “One of Not Many Mentorship Program”, an initiative designed to encourage and mentor young talent to achieve their aspirations. The program, which is part of the drive to stimulate creative momentum, began in the Middle East, with six young Emirati women being given the opportunity to enjoy guidance by six female entrepreneurs in launching their own business ventures. After an initial mentoring experience lasting six months, the six candidates were able to continue their learning process with a six-month internship with Vacheron Constantin or the Richemont Group in order to develop their skills and knowledge of the business world.

Vacheron Constantin and Abbey Road Studios

The “One of Not Many Mentorship Program” is continuing as part of the ongoing creative collaboration since 2018 between Vacheron Constantin and Abbey Road Studios, the legendary London recording studios owned by Universal Music. Over these four years, this partnership has already given rise to several significant events and projects. The official launch of the Fiftysix collection, which took place in this exceptional setting that has welcomed artists such as Adele, The Beatles, Shirley Bassey, Pink Floyd, and Kanye West. On this occasion, guests were treated to a performance by Benjamin Clementine, one of the faces of Vacheron Constantin’s “One of Not Many” campaign and who recorded his track “Eternity” at Abbey Road Studios as a co-production with the Maison. It was also there that the Manufacture organised the recording of the acoustic imprint of its Les Cabinotiers chiming watches, presented in 2020 as part of its “La Musique du Temps®” theme.

This mentorship program begins a new chapter in the creative collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and Abbey Road Studios. Through the Vacheron Constantin mentorship program, attention is focused on young talents who have not yet signed with a label. A curated list of names chosen by Spinnup – a service created by Universal and dedicated to discovering new artists – was suggested to the program’s first mentor, Woodkid.

Woodkid and Ewan J Phillips

Woodkid, a world-renowned French musician and director, chose a young singer-songwriter from the London area, Ewan J Phillips, to be the first to join the Vacheron Constantin “One of Not Many Mentorship Program” dedicated to the world of music. “To be able to pass on knowledge and artistic sensibility by working with young talents is a privilege for me as a musician”, said Woodkid. “Above and beyond the mentor-apprentice relationship, the sharing and discussions Ewan and I have enjoyed are an enrichment for both of us.”

Ewan J Phillips thus benefited from Woodkid’s advice and expertise in recording a track from his repertoire. “It was an unexpected opportunity to have Woodkid as a mentor and Abbey Road as recording studios”, said Ewan J Phillips “I hadn’t so far managed to get the right tone for this song, so we worked on a new voice and piano only version to recreate that intimate atmosphere typical of the first ‘takes’ of a composition.”

Ewan J Phillips “Say You Never Loved Me” track will be pressed to vinyl, complete with a B side featuring an interview with the mentor and his apprentice. This song will also be available as a DSP file ready for streaming on music platforms. The program is accompanied by photos and videos of how the project came to life and illustrating the passing on of knowledge cherished by Vacheron Constantin. Through this mentorship program, Vacheron Constantin is highlighting the sharing and transmission of knowledge that is indispensable in the art world in general and particularly in the measurement of time.

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Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface: a contemporary aesthetic for a model reflecting Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

  • A new openworked sapphire face for the Traditionnelle complete calendar watch, interpreted through two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold
  • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with triple calendar and precision moon phase
  • A highly contemporary aesthetic for these timepieces, heirs to Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

Geneva,- Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The openworked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.

Revisiting the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva’s watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCL/2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.

Airy construction

The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers – embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment – highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.

The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.

Calibre 2460 QCL/2

Beating at the heart of these two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, it beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.

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Sum-up

The two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watches in white and pink gold combine the classic attributes of the collection with an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The dial is made of sapphire crystal opening onto the movement featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic treatment. This total transparency on both sides of the watch highlights the technical nature of its horological complications. Equipped with a self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/2, these two 41 mm models provide a complete calendar display complemented by age of the moon and precision moon phase indications. The day and month are shown through central dial apertures below the 12 o’clock hour-marker, while the date is indicated on the periphery by a central hand. Already available in rose and white gold in a more classic interpretation with a solid dial, the two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface versions are paired with a grey alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654

Calibre
2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Assembled in three parts:

  • Slate grey guilloche upper part
  • Slate grey opaline flange
  • Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers

18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

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The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey URWERK’s latest flash of brilliance

The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey

URWERK’s latest flash of brilliance

Amid the calm and serene skies of Haute Horlogerie, an unidentified flying object is looming on the horizon. Could it be the announcement of an imminent upheaval? The intuition of an emotional cataclysm?

Flashing across the night sky, the new UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey appears in a shower of metal! The latest evolution of the UR-112 features a new titanium and steel fuselage. With this limited edition, URWERK – creator of ‘space opera’ watches – pushes its limits further than ever… to infinity and beyond!

Gleaming like Padme Amidala’s J-type 327; equipped with two large round eye-like windows like Archie; the ‘owl ship’ from Watchmen. Streamlined like a Klingon Bird of Prey. Grooved like the hull of the Battlestar Galactica. The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssée emerges from the URWERK shipyard in a limited edition, featuring an infinite number of flat, curved, grooved, sculpted, screwed and bonded surfaces, all incorporating advanced finishes alternating between matt and glossy, sandblasted and polished. This painstaking, meticulous work contributes to enhancing the two large cockpits where the rotating prisms representing the UR-112’s unique signature operate, akin to two advanced observation posts.

Sophisticated textures

The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey is the successor to the UR-112 Aggregat Two-Tone. The upper part of this wrist spacecraft is suitable for polishing. The grooved steel cover opens vertically to give access to the secondary power reserve and digital seconds indications. It is mirror-polished on the top with a beadblasted edge. Its central titanium body is satin-brushed, grooved, sandblasted and beadblasted, thereby forming a field of functional microdots. The two steel wings of the UR-112 Odyssey fit into this central body.

Each zone, each space, each element has its own texture, its own finish, its own language. Martin Frei, co-founder of URWERK and head designer, said: “I am lucky enough to experience the birth of our creations first-hand – in the workshops and in close proximity with our watchmakers. I witness the final assembly. I see the material come to life, and even more importantly, finishes that existed only in my mind materialize before my eyes. Like the pencil strokes that draw and refine the outlines of the watch on paper, the traces of machining on the titanium and steel render its creative process visible. It then takes all the magic and mastery of the craftsman’s hand to transcript this emotion in the finished product, which is beadblasted, satin-brushed and polished. In the case of the UR-112, this was a particularly long and trying process, a real odyssey, which enabled us to convert the strength of the raw material into the refinement of the finished product. “

Digital sequence

The UR-112 belongs to the Special Project line. This is a departure from the founding concept of URWERK’s wandering-hour indication, on a whole new scale. There are no cubes, no carousel with arms, no 120-degree sector-type indication like on so many models that have marked the history of URWERK over the last 25 years. The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey displays jumping hours and trailing minutes on prisms. Shifted to the front of the watch, they are visible in their large sapphire crystal housings. As the hours jump on one side and the minutes advance in five-minute increments on the other, an additional trailing indicator shows the precise minutes. Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of URWERK and master watchmaker said: “Once again we have let our guts speak for us in making a spaceship, a UFO that is a technical challenge. This UR-112 is pure madness in terms of the mechanics and the finishes. We will only be able to make a very limited number and there may be just five of them, but this is sheer unadulterated watchmaking pleasure!”

Heart of the reactor

The central body of the case contains the driving and regulating components of the UR-13.01 caliber: a large barrel providing 48 hours of power reserve, coupled with an automatic-winding rotor. Pressing the two pushers on the sides of the watch opens the cover to reveal the power-reserve indicator and the spectacular small seconds. The latter is composed of a skeletonized silicon disk attached to a red anodized aluminum bridge, a typical URWERK design feature.

Spatio-temporal module

A long, thin rod stands out in the middle of this incredible vessel. Measuring several centimeters in length, it is possibly the longest component in contemporary watchmaking. To guarantee its lightness and rigidity, this cardan shaft is made of titanium and ensures the coupling with the display module, located at the front of the shell. It establishes this link thanks to a new succession of gears that drive the hours and minutes prisms via two 90° bevel gears. The black aluminum prisms featuring grooved sides are enhanced with Super-LumiNovaTM and are secured by planetary systems that ensure they rotate both on their axis and in space. This kinematic approach calls for absolute precision and contributes to endowing the UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey with a totally unique and unconventional design. So URWERK!

UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey

Limited edition

Price: CHF 250,000.00 (Swiss francs / excluding tax)

MOVEMENT

Caliber: UR-13.01 automatic
Jewels: 66
Escapement: Swiss lever-type
Frequency: 4 Hz; 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 48 hours
Materials Aluminum hours and minutes satellite prisms; titanium cardan shaft, silicon second wheel
Surface finishing: Circular graining, sandblasting, Côtes de Genève, polished screw heads
   
   
INDICATIONS

 

 Jumping digital hours and trailing digital minutes on satellite prisms; silicon digital seconds; power-reserve indicator

 
   
CASE  
Dimensions: Width 42mm; length 51mm; thickness 16 mm
Materials Titanium, steel
Glass Sapphire crystal
Water resistance Pressure tested to 3 ATM / 100 ft / 30 m
   

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Audemars Piguet - The 34 mm Royal Oak selfwinding in black ceramic returns
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Audemars Piguet – The 34 mm Royal Oak selfwinding in black ceramic returns

THE 34 MM ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING IN BLACK CERAMIC RETURNS WITH A SUBTLE DESIGN EVOLUTION FOR THE COLLECTION’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has slightly evolved the 34 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding fully dressed in black ceramic on the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.

While the case’s design remains unchanged, the black dial benefits from the Royal Oak’s latest design evolution debuted in 2022 on several 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm Royal Oak models. The watch is also fitted with the Royal Oak’s dedicated anniversary oscillating weight.

MORE NUANCED DIAL DESIGN

Similarly to last year, this 34 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding timepiece adorns a black guilloché “Grande Tapisserie” dial contrasted with scintillating pink gold accents. Yet, it benefits from the refined dial design evolution debuting in 2022 on some of the Royal Oak models in 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm.

The logo now presents an applied Audemars Piguet signature crafted in 24-carat pink gold achieved through galvanic growth – a chemical process akin to 3D printing. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed by hand on the dial with tiny legs almost invisible to the eye. This long-form signature appears at 12 o’clock without the AP monogram for added refinement.

While keeping with the Royal Oak’s aesthetic codes, the size and length of the faceted hour-markers and hands have been harmonised with the rest of the anniversary Royal Oak Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph models across the collection for optimum visibility.

BLACK CERAMIC ILLUMINATED WITH PINK GOLD

Similarly to last year’s version, the watch’s black ceramic case and bracelet are embellished with 18-carat pink gold hexagonal screws, which secure the bezel onto the case, for a refined two-tone contrast. All the case and bracelet components have been finished by hand with the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers, providing an ever-changing play of light.

“Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”  

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AUDEMARS PIGUET LANZA SU PRIMER TOURBILLON VOLADOR AUTOMÁTICO ROYAL OAK OPRENWORKED

AUDEMARS PIGUET LANZA SU PRIMER TOURBILLON VOLADOR AUTOMÁTICO ROYAL OAK OPRENWORKED

El fabricante suizo de alta relojería Audemars Piguet se complace en presentar su primer Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked en un diámetro de 41 mm para celebrar el 50 aniversario del Royal Oak. Este reloj de acero inoxidable funciona con el primer mecanismo calado de tourbillon volante de cuerda automática de la Manufactura, el Calibre 2972, estrenado en este elegante reloj monocromático. Este último movimiento interno se basa en la dilatada experiencia de Audemars Piguet en mecanismos calados y tourbillon, lo que lleva la estética contemporánea a nuevas cotas.

UN TOURBILLON VOLANTE DE CUERDA AUTOMÁTICA DOTADO DE UNA ARQUITECTURA CALADA DISTINTIVA

El Calibre 2972 recién lanzado, que combina un rotor central con un tourbillon volante, evoluciona del Calibre 2950, lanzado en 2019 como parte de la colección Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. El nuevo calibre ha sido concebido para ofrecer simetría y un rico juego de luces. Su arquitectura calada altamente estilizada y de múltiples capas otorga al reloj un efecto 3D único, ya que la forma de los puentes se ha acabado horizontal y verticalmente.

El calibre 2972 ​​se basa en las antiguas técnicas de calado que han estado remodelando lo que es posible con el diseño de relojes de pulsera desde la década de 1930. La belleza y delicadeza del mecanismo se revela al eliminar la mayor cantidad posible de material de la placa principal y los puentes para dejar pasar la luz, sin afectar sus funciones. Aprovechando las tecnologías de fabricación avanzadas, las geometrías preliminares de la placa principal y los puentes se cortaron mediante mecanizado de control numérico por computadora (CNC), antes de perfeccionarse mediante mecanizado por descarga eléctrica (EDM). Este proceso de fabricación permite eliminar pequeñas cantidades de material con extrema precisión para alcanzar la forma deseada.

Luego, cada componente se ha acabado con refinadas decoraciones de alta relojería que incluyen “traits tirés”, satinado, cepillado circular y de rayos de sol, caracoles y biseles pulidos. Los ángulos en V pulidos que se pueden admirar en ambos lados del reloj reflejan el trabajo manual meticuloso que se llevó a cabo en su realización, ya que este nivel de artesanía solo se puede lograr a mano. Los tonos rodiados de los diferentes componentes armonizan con la caja y el brazalete de acero inoxidable del reloj, lo que le otorga una estética monocromática contemporánea.
El tourbillon volante despejado, ubicado a las 6 en punto, compensa el efecto de la gravedad y mejora la precisión. El volante está alojado en una diminuta jaula giratoria que hace una revolución por minuto para evitar que la espiral permanezca estática. Sostenido únicamente sobre la platina principal, el tourbillon volante se considera hoy como un símbolo del arte relojero, ya que solo unos pocos relojeros conservan las habilidades necesarias para su realización.

“Nacido en Le Brassus, criado en todo el mundo”.

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ROGER DUBUIS – Paints Downtown Red

A TALE OF LEGENDARY CRAFT

THE KNIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE

Passion. Commitment. Boldness. The codes of chivalry may be thousands of years old but their virtues are still alive within the minds of many. That is why excellence continues to be the goal for Roger Dubuis. Yet the Maison’s ultimate mission is its perpetual quest to challenge the rules of the game – and represent the future of Hyper Horology as a result.

This mindset is taken to new heights for the latest evolution of the iconic Knights of the Round Table collection. Setting a new standard, the timepiece is adorned with rare artistic mastery, outstanding craftsmanship and unbridled creativity. Infused with the legacy of a legend, yet designed with the future in mind, it is a powerful statement for the here and now. For the modern wearer who understands how the strength of the past creates power in the present – and beyond. But this story of legendary craft cannot just be told to anyone. It is a privilege reserved for a few. Ones in the know. Bold enough to discover it? Take a seat at the table.

FORGING A MYTH THROUGH MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP

The threat is real. The battle is on. In the mysterious depths of a forgotten place, twelve brave knights prepare to defend their kingdom against the power of gravitational force. The ground is fracturing, the broken earth begins to crack. Sensing danger, the knights position themselves against this invisible enemy. Will they triumph?

Bringing a legend to life in the most exciting way yet, twelve hour-marked knights cast in 18k 750/1000 pink gold are designed to appear in flux in their own unique postures. This is the true feat of hyper-expressive craftsmanship that took a year and a half to master. Through the complex art of micro-sculpture, each character is complete with medieval armour, plates, shield and helmet, while their customised weapons are drawn ready to fight whatever bursts from beneath their feet. Here lies the stage that required the manual hand-assembly of each and every piece of the glass puzzle. With fine detailing as intricate as this, Roger Dubuis all but proves its métiers d’art credentials. An honour – like those of the knights – reserved for the few, whatever era it’s found within.

Symbolising an imagined scene where the knights prepare to defend themselves from imminent danger, each warrior is settled against a transparent blood red flange developed from precious Murano glass. This artisanal rarity is also used to construct the dark and shiny texture of the black dial. Part of the great Venetian tradition, Murano glass bends light in uniquely modern and interesting ways.

ARMED WITH HOROLOGICAL MASTERY

The evolved Knights of the Round Table timepiece merges a legend from the past with futuristic design cues to produce a charismatic emblem for right now. Powered by an automatic Monobalancier RD821 calibre, its new contemporary finish and design includes a clean-cut case made from a rich and remarkable 18k 750/1000 pink gold.  Just as the fiercely brave knights are loyal to their oath of duty, the Maison is loyal to hyper expressive craftsmanship. Indeed, maintaining the highest standards of excellence included hand-finishing all parts of this 45mm movement with meticulous care, and according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

Meanwhile, the crown and its protector are intentionally shaped like the guard of a sword, designed to appear as if a blade is stuck inside the watch, just like the Excalibur sword in the stone that Arthur was crowned a king for pulling free.

To make the most of the knight’s fine detailing, a new transparent sapphire crystal ring under the bezel provides a full view of their elaborate facets. Now, discerning collectors are secretly invited to enjoy all aspects of their features with this hyper exclusive view available only to them.

On the back of the case, the oscillating weight is completely redesigned with a circular finish comprised of two woven layers of tilted pyramid shapes that create the appearance of castle-stained glass. Inspired by the triangular notches around the edge of the timepiece, this sophisticated design choice provides a mesmeric view of the weight moving inside the mosaic. Around the display an engraving of the famous oath spoken, as the legend goes, by all knights who sought to defend King Arthur reads: “Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak and humbling the proud.” Honouring this mythical sentiment, yet designed to mark the cues of the modern world, the wearer can lean into a legend from the past to bring him power in the present.

A black calf leather strap – the first of the Knights of the Round Table collection to feature a Quick Release System – allows for easy interchangeability, while completing the luxurious look and feel of this legendary timepiece fit for the warrior of today.

Only a few privileged have the honour of wearing a Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table timepiece; a hyper expressive timepiece that combines the power, myth and know-how of the past and the modern world. That’s why scarcity must reign when it comes to craft like this. With a limited series of 28 pieces available exclusively in Roger Dubuis boutiques, will you become one of the lucky few?

A secret unearthed, a valiant quest embarked upon. But a legend does not die that easily, and neither does danger. What else might emerge from the deepest depths? To be continued….

NO RULES. OUR GAME.

ABOUT ROGER DUBUIS

The rush of adrenalin, a pounding heart, the sure and certain knowledge that something is about to happen: ENTER THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY. Impertinent, excessive, incisive, uncompromising, and slightly mad, this is Roger Dubuis. Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture, an innovative spirit, a flagrant disregard for convention and irrepressible daring are the cornerstones of its irrepressibly bold attitude; the lifeblood of its non-conformist and unmistakably contemporary timepieces. That’s what Roger Dubuis is all about!  Laugh, scream, roar, and above all, create… for an exclusive tribe that believes in the value of living larger than life at every turn. Inspired by other cutting-edge industries and out-of-the-box designs, boundary-pushing technical sophistication combined with an inbred passion for extravagance to prove, time and time again, that Roger Dubuis is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology.

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Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound
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Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe ”Advanced Research”

The manufacture presents a pioneering innovation for one of its most significant fields of competence – chiming watches.

The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” have extended the horizon of its chiming watches by developing a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality. Crowned by four patents, the pioneering technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

The spirit of innovation has been in Patek Philippe’s DNA since the company was founded. True to this uninterrupted tradition, the manufacture has spared no effort to further push the limits of watchmaking artistry and move at the forefront of technical development. But Patek Philippe considers innovations to be meaningful only if they offer the user genuine added value in terms of quality, precision, and dependability in the long run.Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.

To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.). Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar.

In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.

A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer.

Today, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department can present an important technical milestone in a domain that relates to the superb competencies of the manufacture: the chiming watches, or, more precisely, the minute repeaters. As regards these grand complications, Patek Philippe offers the largest portfolio of regularly produced models.Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions. After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm. Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.

A flexibly suspended sound lever

To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm. When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A new type of sound propagation

Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass. Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring. The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing. Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.

Platinum components

Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.A limited edition of 15 watches

To present the exclusive system of sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe is launching a limited special edition of the watch as was the case previously with the “Advanced Research” innovations. The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges – 950 platinum.

In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same openworked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges. The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.

With its unique fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” presents an innovation that will seduce all enthusiasts of minute repeaters and technical debuts. It opens up totally new horizons for chiming watches.

Patents

Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer:
PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Sound amplification mechanism:
EP3812844 A1 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Platinum hammers:
CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG

Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT

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HUBLOT Introduces an Orange Carbon Edition of the Big Bang Unico Golf

HUBLOT Introduces an Orange Carbon Edition of the Big Bang Unico Golf

Hublot loves golf! Today, at LVMH Watch Week 2022, we’re extremely proud to introduce the Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon, an entirely mechanical golf watch that can keep track of your score over the course of an 18-hole round.

In 2017 and in partnership with the most successful golfer of his generation Dustin Johnson, we introduced the world’s first mechanical golf watch, the Big Bang Unico Golf. Most golf watches are digital, but this innovative Swiss Made watch brought the joy of watchmaking mechanics to golfers’ wrists.

We developed a module for our Unico movement so that through three apertures, the watch showed golfers which hole they were on, how many shots they’d taken on that hole, and their cumulative score for the round. The Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon continues the story, casing the ground-breaking Hublot MHUB1580 automatic movement in zesty, lightweight orange carbon.

The 45mm Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon is simple to operate. The shot-counting mechanism is activated by a yellow putter-shaped pusher at 2 o’clock, which also advances the yellow stroke counter visible through an aperture at 3 o’clock. When it’s time to move to the next hole, another putter-shaped pusher at 4 o’clock resets the shot indication to zero and advances the hole indication at 9 o’clock by one hole. The cumulative score goes up by one with every recorded shot, and is shown through an aperture at 6 o’clock.

At the end of a round, the display can be reset to zero via the pusher at 8 o’clock. This pusher can be locked by rotating it 45 degrees to avoid accidentally resetting your score during a round. And because the watch is skeletonised, revealing the movement’s inner workings, every operation is visualised by an intriguing dance of precisely choreographed moving parts – just like a good golf swing.

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