, , , ,

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

/by
, , , , , , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

Vacheron Constantin

High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

  • Horology stems from the observation and study of the stars dating right back to the earliest ancient civilisations
  • Twenty years after its foundation in 1755, the first watches with astronomical indications appeared at Vacheron Constantin.
  • The Manufacture has developed a rare breed of expertise in Grand Complication watches dedicated to the movement and influence of the moon, stars and planets.

Geneva, November 17th 2021 – Horology, the science of time measurement, was born from the observations of heavenly bodies and natural cycles. The mechanical instruments developed by horologists stem from these observations, reflecting an art that has continued to progress since the late Middle Ages. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin developed a perfect mastery of astronomical indications at a very early stage, progressively enriching it over the two and a half centuries of the Manufacture’s existence. Today, the Maison produces watchmaking masterpieces of great astronomical complexity.

Astronomical watches remind us of the origins of watchmaking. Born of the observation of the great physical laws of Nature, the measurement of time is in fact a material extrapolation of the movement of the stars and cycles. This mechanically translated interpretation has given rise across the ages to timepieces capable of offering a wide variety of functions, and of varying degrees of complexity, linked to the singularities of the Gregorian calendar, to the various temporalities governing our universe, or to the motion of heavenly bodies and their impact on the Earth. Although many of these functions are not of practical use, they nonetheless testify to expertise that is all the rarer in that it lends a cosmological dimension to these watches forming a link between humankind and the universe. From its earliest days, Vacheron Constantin has shown great interest in watches with astronomical functions, including various types of calendar displays and indications of the phases and age of the Moon, often combined with other horological complications. Since the 2000s, this technical mastery has been illustrated in particular through its Les Cabinotiers department, whose astronomical watches are masterpieces of their kind.

Astronomical functions

The astronomical functions of a wristwatch include indications related to the particularities of the Gregorian calendar, as well as a wide variety of displays related to the movement of the stars. In addition to the main functions listed below, the most complex of them may offer a system for predicting lunar and solar eclipses, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, displays of the ephemerides (solstices, equinoxes, seasons), the signs of the zodiac, a tideograph, sunrise and sunset, the duration of day and night, the annual deviation or angular movement of the Moon, etc. All this bearing in mind that a good number of these functions are valid exclusively for a given location. The most “common” astronomical watches include one or more of the following indications.

  • Calendars

A simple calendar watch is a watch that, in addition to the time, provides calendar information – usually the date – but whose mechanism does not automatically keep step with the irregularity of successive months. When such a calendar also provides indications including the day of the week, phases of the moon and even the year, it is called a complete calendar. This type of complication requires five adjustments per year. Unlike a simple calendar, an annual calendar automatically takes into account the irregularity of 30- or 31-day months, except for February, meaning that manual adjustment is required on March 1st each year. A perpetual calendar, on the other hand, indicates calendar functions such as the date, month and day of the week, taking into account months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years.

  • Moon phases

The moon-phase indication is frequently associated with the perpetual calendar. It serves to reproduce the cycle of Earth’s satellite (new Moon, first quarter, full Moon, last quarter) on the watch dial. The phases of the Moon should not be confused with the age of the Moon which indicates the time (in days) elapsed since the last new Moon.

  • Equation of time

The equation of time is defined by the difference between solar time – or true time – and civil time – or mean time. The former is the time as shown on a sundial, while the latter is the time displayed on a watch. The difference between the two ranges from -16 minutes to +14 minutes and occurs during the course of the year, due to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and the tilt of its axis.

  • Sidereal time

The time it takes for the Earth to complete one full spin on its axis (360°) is 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds, and is called the sidereal day. Because of the Earth’s revolution around the Sun and its rotation on its own axis, the solar day – the time difference between two passages of the Sun through the zenith point (meridian) – lasts a few extra minutes. Using a fixed star in the sky instead of the Sun as a reference point, this sidereal time is used as a basis for astronomical observations.

  • Sky map

The sky chart is a planispherical representation on a disc or dial of the sky at a given location on the globe. This surface is rotated at a rate of one revolution per year – thereby offering a ‘snapshot’ of the sky at a given time – or of one revolution per sidereal day, which provides a view of the sky in real time.

Advanced mechanics

The perpetual calendar is often considered one of horology’s finest gems for its ability to display the exact date for an all but infinite duration (with the exception of secular years not divisible by 400), taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this mechanical feat, the movement must have a “memory” of 1,461 days, equivalent to four years. The essential component of these mechanisms is the month cam on which the different monthly durations are programmed. Equation of time mechanisms are also governed by a cam – which is in this case asymmetrical, performs one revolution in a year and features a shape derived from the analemma.

This results in a one-day discrepancy for this type of mechanism that must be corrected every 2 years and 7 months. Watches with a precision moon-phase display have a wheel with 135 teeth. With this system, the deviation from the lunar cycle is reduced to one day every 122 years. Another astral representation is the rotating sky chart, of which the visible part corresponding to the skyline is delimited by an ellipse, and which generally makes one revolution in one day in order to offer a vision of the sky in real time.

This rotation is calculated according to sidereal time, which is 3 minutes and 56 seconds shorter than the average day. Technically, the simplest solution consists of integrating two kinetic chains in the movement, from the barrel to the regulating organ, the first beating at the mean solar time rate of one revolution in 24 hours and the second at the slightly faster sidereal time rate of one revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Astronomical paternity

The appearance of megalithism around 5000 BC owes nothing to chance. These thousands of precisely oriented stone monuments – of which one of the best-known is the circle of menhirs at Stonehenge – are regarded as the first astronomical observatories. It was however not until around 4200 BC that these first observations took on a more scientific nature, when the birth of writing played a decisive role by making it possible to record events, perform calculations, establish chronologies and make forecasts. Writing appeared in Mesopotamia, and gradually became established in Egypt in the following century – and then some 2,000 years later in China and the Mayan Empire. Each great civilisation then set about developing its own calendar based on the visible movement of the Sun or the Moon, or both.

It was the Mesopotamians, around 2400 BC, who invented a common unit of measurement for calculating distances and time, which is still the basis of our sexagesimal system of degrees of angle and minutes today. This spatialisation of time was decisive when it came to sequencing it according to the course of the stars. The development of mechanical engineering, which already emerged at the time of Aristotle, was thus able to give shape to the counting of time and its astronomical dimension. As soon as the first clocks appeared in the 13th and 14th centuries, mechanical horologists set out to reproduce on dials the movements of the solar system’s main planets. The pocket watches of the Renaissance were direct heirs to these large astronomical clocks. Well before the invention of the minutes hand, these watches already indicated the time, the date, the days of the week, the months and their duration, the moon phases and the signs of the zodiac. These astronomical watches, which were very popular in the 17th century, are still considered to be models of their kind today.

From that time onwards, ingenious watchmakers redoubled their efforts to make their mechanisms more accurate – resulting in the appearance of minutes and then seconds hands – and more compact. This miniaturisation naturally made it difficult to depict certain astronomical functions, except for the date and its most sophisticated perpetual calendar interpretation, accompanied by a moon-phase display. As of the 19th century, any Grand Complication watch had to incorporate a mechanism capable of following the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar. At that time, some exceptional pocket watches also reproduced celestial mechanics by displaying the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times or sidereal time. These functions can be found in the highly complicated timepieces of the first half of the 20th century. The advent of the wristwatch, however, put a stop to these technical masterpieces – while nonetheless not provoking their complete disappearance. Since the revival of the mechanical watch at the end of the 1980s, the astronomical watch has enjoyed a clear resurgence in interest and currently represents a supreme demonstration of expertise.

 

Vacheron Constantin and calendar watches

The first mention of a pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s records dates back to a period prior to 1773, i.e. the early years of the workshop founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755. A decade later, the range of complications developed under the leadership of Jean-Marc’s son Abraham Vacheron, notably exemplified by the first complete calendar dating from 1785 and appearing on a brass dial with a floral motif. The archives of the Maison accurately retrace this progressive mastery of astronomical complications, beginning in 1829 with the first recorded order for a watch featuring a simple calendar and moon phases, and again in 1884 for a perpetual calendar integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch now belonging to Vacheron Constantin’s private collection. This achievement marked the beginning of an epic mechanical saga that was to take on greater significance at the turn of the century.

As early as 1900, the company set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, and orders poured in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was thus combined with other technical feats, as in this 1901 pink gold pocket watch incorporating a minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon. This masterpiece of mechanical artistry typifying Grand Complication watches prefigures the historic golden age of complicated watches at Vacheron Constantin. An era that culminated in the 1920s and 1930s, notably with the astronomical pocket watch made in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. This masterful timepiece combines a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism.

The heyday of the perpetual calendar

Throughout most of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to its classic and elegant approach to horological complications, including the perpetual calendar in pocket watches until the 1960s. These decades were thus punctuated by a number of exceptional creations, including this gold pocket watch from 1946 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar displaying the phases and age of the moon. Elegance was notably expressed by models featuring impressive slimness made possible by their thin movements. In 1955, Vacheron Constantin had already presented its manual-winding Calibre 1003, which was barely 1.64 mm thick, a real feat. Some 12 years later, the company achieved a new feat – this time in the field of self-winding movements – with its Calibre 1120 measuring 2.45 mm thick. It was this specific movement, skeletonised for the occasion, that served as the basis for the first perpetual calendar (Calibre 1120 QP) housed in an ultra-thin wristwatch introduced by Vacheron Constantin in 1983.

While complete calendars, triple calendars with moon phases and retrograde calendar indications are part of the grand traditions of the Maison, the perpetual calendar remains one of its preferred complications, currently interpreted in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections. This inclination has notably been reflected in a major new model presented in 2019 with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar . With its two going trains operating at different rhythms, the watch can be slowed down to a “resting position” ensuring at least 65 days of power reserve. In its “classic” version, the perpetual calendar also remains a basic function of grand complication mechanisms, an unchanging tradition at Vacheron Constantin. In recent years, the Manufacture has distinguished itself with timepieces whose complexity has become an art in itself, such as the Tour de l’île with its 16 watchmaking and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 for the 250th anniversary of the Maison. Ten years later, for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented another timepiece destined to make watchmaking history, the Reference 57260 and its 57 complications, making this one-of-a-kind model the most complicated watch in the world.

Astronomy at its peak

At Vacheron Constantin, mastery of astronomical functions is by no means confined to calendar functions. In the world of pocket watches, the Manufacture responded at an early stage to specific requests from customers and collectors who were particularly sensitive to this dimension of watchmaking. In 1890, for example, at the request of a Parisian client, the Manufacture created a watch indicating sidereal time. Some 20 years later, the company archives mention a movement blank designed to power a display of true solar time, associated with a simple calendar as well as sunrise and sunset indications. The year 1919 was also marked by the delivery of a perpetual calendar movement with moon phases, sunrise and sunset and retrograde equation of time, a true mechanical rarity. This tradition of astronomical indications based on the course of the stars – which been put on hold for a time due to the miniaturisation requirements of the wristwatch – has made a major comeback in the Maison’s collections since the powerful late 20th century craze for mechanical watches and has been further strengthened since the creation of the Les Cabinotiers department.

Responsible for special orders and exceptional creations for the Maison in the form of one-of-a-kind timepieces, this department has produced veritable masterpieces in the field of astronomical watches with highly sophisticated complications. Among these is the Celestia Astronomical grand complication 3600 (2017) and its 23 functions inspired by astronomy, including a reading of civil, solar and sidereal time. This same reading is found on the Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music (2020) and its 19 essentially astronomical functions coupled with a minute repeater. The theme chosen for the Les Cabinotiers watches introduced in 2021 was Le Temps Céleste (celestial time), masterfully expressed through three exceptional timepieces. Among them are the Armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, featuring a jumping retrograde perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a 3D depiction of the two hemispheres for the 24-hour and day/night indications. Expressed at this level, astronomical complications are undoubtedly both science and art.

A beautiful tribute

In the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s reputation was well established, particularly in the world of accuracy, which earned the company numerous prizes for excellence in chronometry (precision timekeeping) awarded by the Geneva Observatory, among others. The Manufacture’s customers therefore increasingly placed orders for timepieces meeting their needs, which were strictly formulated when it comes to astronomical observations. A letter addressed to Vacheron Constantin on February 24th 1853 by Count Hyppolite Salino, secretary of the Sardinian Legation in Paris, features a request for a thermometer and date watch: “(…) as I intend to use this watch for astronomical observations, I would like it to be a true chronometer, crafted with the perfection that the works emerging from your workshops come so close to attaining”. A glowing tribute to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin.

************************

Watch selection

Double-sided yellow gold pocket watch with 48-month perpetual calendar and moon phases –1884

This is the first recorded Vacheron Constantin pocket watch to incorporate a perpetual calendar and features a double-sided display. The display of time including small seconds appears on the front enamel dial with Roman numerals and external minute-track, while the perpetual calendar is displayed on four counters visible through the transparent caseback. The vertical axis features the date and the day of the week, while the age and phases of the moon appear on the horizontal axis opposite the month display. This subdial divided into four quarters is staggered over 48 months with the leap year indicated by the same hand. This timepiece is all the more remarkable in that it won a First Prize for chronometry at the Geneva Observatory competition.

Grand Complication yellow gold pocket watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases and split-seconds chronograph – 1931

This extremely complicated watch is a collector’s item. A very rare model for its time, it displays a perpetual calendar with the age and phases of the moon, together with a split-seconds chronograph as well as a 32-hour power reserve indication. Regulated by a tourbillon, which can be seen by lifting the cover protecting the caseback, this watch won First Prize in the 1934 Geneva Observatory competition. Produced in 1931, it is a perfect example of the golden age that Vacheron Constantin experienced at that time in the production of pocket watches with multiple complications, perfect readability and infallible chronometry.

King Farouk yellow gold Grand Complication pocket watch – 1934

One of the most complicated watches of its time. This imposing model – measuring 80 millimetres in diameter and which took more than five years to complete – is equipped with 13 hands. Its calibre incorporates 820 components that drive 14 complications. This double going-train watch in 18K yellow gold was presented to King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 and remained in his collection until 1954. It includes a chiming minute repeater and Grande and Petite Sonnerie equipped with three gongs and three hammers, a split-seconds chronograph with a 30-minute counter, a perpetual calendar, an indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm clock and two power-reserve indicators.

“Cioccolatone” yellow gold square curved wristwatch with triple calendar and moon phases – 1954

In the 1950s, post-war exuberance led to new forms of design that were both functional and unrestrained. Vacheron Constantin’s response to this new trend took the form of this large, organically square wristwatch with rounded lugs and bezel, as well as a slightly curved case. Nicknamed “Cioccolatone”, this watch has become an iconic symbol of the design typical of that period. Introduced at the beginning of the decade, it has been interpreted through several variations, including this most emblematic Reference 4764 with triple calendar and moon phases.

Ultra-thin platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phases – 1988

At the height of the hegemony of quartz watches in the 1980s, Vacheron Constantin took a gamble on the mechanical watch by producing this complication watch, the first perpetual calendar with moon phases on a wristwatch from the Maison, which was also offered in an ultra-thin version. This model played an important role in the renewed interest in high-end watchmaking and its complicated mechanical watches. Presented in 1983, this reference –interpreted through several iterations including a skeleton version – remained in production until 2006. The watch is particularly elegant thanks to its movement measuring barely 4.05 mm thick: the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP complete with date module.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – 2017

The unique double-sided Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 combines astronomy and the art of watchmaking in a “celestial” white gold composition. The watch incorporates 23 mainly astronomical horological complications appearing on both sides of the case, offering a reading of the time in three different modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Its new fully integrated calibre has nearly 514 components housed in a thickness of barely 8.7 mm, while six barrels guarantee it a three-week autonomy.

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria – 2021

Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991, the result of four years of development, this one-of-a-kind timepiece features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of the date, day and month. It also features a rare 3D depiction representing the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a complete rotation in 24 hours complete with a day/night indication. The movement is regulated by a dual-axis tourbillon whose interlocking cages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.

/by
, , , ,

Patek Philippe – 5905/1A FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

Patek Philippe 

5905/1A
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. ANNUAL CALENDAR.

A resolutely sporty version in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019,
Reference 5905 combines two practical and easy-to-use complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The Manufacture is reinterpreting the style of this much sought-after model by unveiling a first version in steel – a rare metal in the Patek Philippe collections – with a three-link integrated bracelet. This bold and casual design renews the way a Patek Philippe complication watch is worn on a daily basis.

The extremely rhythmical dial features a new elegant and contemporary sunburst olive green color. It ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting. Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch. This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st.

It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial

5905/1A-001
Available for the first time in steel, the Reference 5905 self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar radiates a resolutely sporty look. The rhythmic dial features an elegant and casual “sunburst” olive green color. The integrated bracelet is enhanced by contrasting polished and satin finishes. Thanks to the vertical disk-type clutch, the central chronograph seconds hand can be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

/by
, , ,

CORINNE SUTER, THE SWISS SKIER, JOINS THE HUBLOT FAMILY

CORINNE SUTER, THE SWISS SKIER, JOINS THE HUBLOT FAMILY

Corinne Suter, the Swiss skier, joins the family of Swiss luxury watchmaker, Hublot Corinne Suter: the 2021 World Downhill Champion is the Swiss star that everyone had been waiting for. She has managed to harness pressure by transforming her adrenaline into a driving force and turning her doubts into a strength that is greater than her. She has gained confidence in her abilities and knows that she can compete with the best; this has changed her perspective. She has found her equilibrium and became the world’s best speed specialist. Today, she is joining the Hublot family. A unique combination of the watchmaker and the Queen of the downhill skiing.

To stay up-to-date, follow: @Hublot #Hublot
And one day, all your efforts turn into success! The first podiums bring confidence and that confidence brings podiums. I really felt that I was surrendering, that I was also having much more fun on my skis, I put much less pressure on myself and my first medals allowed me to convert those hundredths of seconds which were against me into success. Knowing that I can keep up and compete with the best, I feel liberated. Even though I am aware that the slate is wiped clean with each race, and that I always have to push my limits, I am now competing for and no longer against myself. I don’t want to be faster than anyone else, I just want to improve for myself; I ski for myself and not against someone else. That mindset has changed everything. I transcend the race adrenalin and it transcends me. When I met Hublot, Ricardo and the teams, I again found that desire to surpass oneself, to make each watch, each new material, an opportunity to push new limits, because this is a brand that is competing for itself, not against itself or others. A family of athletes and media personalities united by the same
desire to surpass themselves, again and again.”

Corinne Suter
2021 World Downhill Champion and new Hublot friend of the brand HUBLOT:
Corinne Suter’s story is the story of a favourite who became a speed specialist, by converting promising talent into success. They say success breeds success; above all, it is shaped by experiences and what you make of them. On the ski runs, it all comes down to tenths and hundredths of seconds, times that the queen of speed will now measure with Hublot stopwatches alongside the other skiers of the family – Dario Cologna, Tanguy Nef, & Kjetil Jansrud.

CHIARA FERRAGNI BECOMES A NEW HUBLOT GLOBAL AMBASSADOR AND FACE OF THE GLOBAL CAMPAIGN

Hublot believes it is very important for members of our family to be inspirational and role models, so that their life journeys can motivate others to give their best. Corinne Suter is on such a journey and we love her life story. She has strength of character, authenticity and is incredibly likeable. As queen of the greatest downhill skiing
discipline, she is now the best speed specialist in the world. I am certain that together we can produce the perfect performance.”  Ricardo Guadalupe  HUBLOT CEO

The tenths and hundredths of seconds that make history People often remember the decisive day that changed the life of an athlete; yet the athlete did not pull that performance out of a hat! Their achievement was a rich journey patterned with success and failure. Corinne Suter’s very promising early career was followed by a succession of injuries, and then she underwent a renaissance, affirming her talent in 2019. The two medals – silver in the Downhill and bronze in the Super-G – which she won in Åre, took the pressure off; both the pressure she put on herself and the pressure of the World Cup tour which saw her as the long-awaited star. In 2020, Corinne, originally from Schwyz, won two speed awards (Downhill and Super-G), confirming her rise to power. With her first small crystal trophy, she became the first Swiss female skier to win the competition since Chantal Bournissen in 1991. Then, there was that classic run, on 13 February 2021, on one of the most tour’s beautiful runs, the Olimpia delle Tofane in Cortina, where Corinne crossed the finishing line with nine tenths of a second advantage. She won her first world championship title, and gave Switzerland its first world title in downhill skiing since Maria Walliser in 1989. The long-awaited star confirmed her potential, and was crowned best speed specialist in 2021.
Her recipe for success With no fear of either gradient or speed, her routine at the top of the run is now simpler: after the recce, she takes one look at the run to conserve all her energy and focus for the race. While adrenaline helps the athlete give her best, she now knows that races convert into podium results by managing the pressure she puts on herself and then surrendering.

HUBLOT
Founded in Switzerland in 1980, HUBLOT is defined by its innovation, which began with the highly original combination of gold and rubber. This “Art of Fusion” stems from the imagination of its visionary Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, and has been driven forward by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe since 2012.
The release of the iconic, multi-award-winning Big Bang in 2005 paved the way for new flagship collections (Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang), with complications ranging from the simple to the highly sophisticated, establishing the extraordinary DNA of the Swiss watchmaking house and ensuring its impressive growth.
Keen to preserve its traditional and cutting-edge expertise, and guided by its philosophy to “Be First, Different and Unique”, the Swiss watchmaker is consistently ahead of the curve, through its innovations in materials (scratch-resistant Magic Gold, ceramics in vibrant colours, sapphire), and the creation of Manufacture movements (Unico, Meca-10, Tourbillon).
HUBLOT is fully committed to creating a Haute Horlogerie brand with a visionary future: a future which is fused with the key events of our times (FIFA World CupTM, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) and the finest ambassadors our era has to offer (Chiara Ferragni, Pelé, Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, Novak Djokovic).
Discover the HUBLOT universe at our network of boutiques located in key cities across the globe: Geneva, Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich and at HUBLOT.com
Stay up-to-date with #Hublot

 

/by
, , , , , , , , , ,

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Watches and Wonders Geneva | Nearly 40 watchmaking Maisons to exhibit at the physical Salon in 2022

After two entirely digital editions, the key watchmaking industry event is confirmed to take place in Geneva both in a physical format – in the halls of Palexpo – and digitally, via the watchandwonders.com platform. Nearly 40 watch and jewellery brands will gather at this watchmaking summit for the first time over 7 days – from 30 March to 5 April 2022.

The next Watches and Wonders Geneva, which is eagerly awaited after two years of being entirely online, is already shaping up for 2022. More than a trade show, this watchmaking summit will bring together the main industry players, with the arrival of new brands such as Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith from the LVMH Group, Grand Seiko, Oris and the jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels who is making its return to the Salon.

 

Reputed brands such as Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor will also be exhibiting for the first time in Geneva. Not to mention other major Maisons, such as Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin, who have been regulars for many years.

All these players will vibrate to the rhythm of a thrilling watch-industry week and will be showcased in one single setting at Palexpo. The Carré des Horlogers will welcome fifteen independent designer-craftsmen and women at the centre of the exhibition.

A hybrid, flexible concept.

After proving its agility over the last two events, Watches and Wonders Geneva is moving to a hybrid format so that visitors can above all have a face-to-face experience but also participate on line, depending on the changing context of the pandemic.

Everything has been thought through and organised to ensure that the product presentations, new product launches, keynotes, panel discussions and conferences be followed in Geneva by visitors onsite, but also, for those who are unable to travel, remotely, via the www.watchesandwonders.com platform. All the content will be available online, live or in replay.

But nothing can ever replace in-person experience. Industry players have clearly stated their desire to get together around the products. They want their guests to be able to see and touch the exceptional pieces, to discuss, debate and interact on site.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 promises once again to be a great success but also a wonderful reunion. Whether in Geneva or elsewhere in the world, make a date for this leading watchmaking summit, from 30 March to 5 April 2022!

EXHIBITING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER |

CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS | CZAPEK | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

More information at watchesandwonders.com

/by
, , , , ,

THE ROLLS-ROYCE BOAT TAIL TIMEPIECES: AN ARTISTIC COLLABORATION WITH BOVET 1822

THE ROLLS-ROYCE BOAT TAIL TIMEPIECES: AN ARTISTIC COLLABORATION WITH BOVET 1822

Rolls-Royce Boat Tail is a pure expression of its owners’ interests, influences and passions, with every detail minutely considered. We have enjoyed working with BOVET 1822 to create a pair of exquisite timepieces that also serve as Boat Tail’s dashboard clocks. In doing so we have together created historically significant items of detail, precision, and beauty.

  • Rolls-Royce collaborates with Swiss master horologists BOVET 1822 to create unique timepieces for first Boat Tail coachbuilt commission
  • Pair of reversible tourbillon timepieces, each designed to be worn on the wrist, used as a table clock, pendant or pocket timepiece, or placed within the fascia as Boat Tail’s Timepiece
  • Timepieces and dashboard holder took 3,000 hours to develop and manufacture
  • Five-day power reserve and tourbillon mechanism ensure the timepieces keep perfect time when used as dashboard clocks

“Rolls-Royce Boat Tail is a pure expression of its owners’ interests, influences and passions, with every detail minutely considered. We have enjoyed working with BOVET 1822 to create a pair of exquisite timepieces that also serve as Boat Tail’s dashboard clocks. In doing so we have together created historically significant items of detail, precision, and beauty. These remarkable objets d’art, unique to the first iteration of Boat Tail, represent the finest examples of the skills and values shared by our two great luxury Houses.”
Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars

“I am so proud of the BOVET 1822 team, who worked in tandem with their counterparts at Rolls-Royce to produce something truly spectacular. The owners of the coachbuilt car, and these bespoke timepieces, are personal friends, as well as valued collectors of BOVET 1822. It was important to do the very best for them – two completely unique pieces that are unlike anything we have ever done before.”
Pascal Raffy, Owner, BOVET 1822


A MOMENT IN TIME

The clock in a Rolls-Royce motor car frequently assumes a jewel-like status, often becoming a canvas for the client to tell the story of their commission in miniature. For Rolls-Royce Boat Tail, the recently unveiled, first of three, coachbuilt creations, in which every element has been created to the owners’ exact specifications, this iconic centrepiece has been elevated to new technical and aesthetic heights.

In a spirit of warm collaboration, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars and Swiss master watchmakers, BOVET 1822, have created a pair of unique timepieces for Boat Tail and its owners. This ambitious undertaking brought together designers, engineers and craftspeople from both luxury Houses, in a magnificent demonstration of their shared values of excellence, precision, heritage, artistry, innovation and attention to detail.

The timepieces are unique to both the horological and automotive worlds. Made as a pair – in lady’s and gentleman’s versions – they are reversible, and housed in BOVET 1822’s patented Amadeo case, which allows them to be worn on the wrist, or used as a table clock, pendant or pocket-watch, as well as being placed front and centre in Boat Tail’s fascia as the motor car’s own timepiece. Both are fitted with tourbillon mechanisms to ensure perfect accuracy.

IN KEEPING WITH TRADITION

BOVET 1822 initially earned its reputation making luxury pocket-watches for wealthy patrons in China; today, it is renowned worldwide for its exquisite timepieces featuring hand-painted dials, detailed engraving and finely finished visible mechanisms.

The timepieces, created for this first iteration of Boat Tail, have specially designed 18K white gold cases and feature matching front dials with the same Caleidolegno veneer found on the aft deck of Boat Tail itself, and are finished with the owner-couples’ names. The gentleman’s timepiece is highly polished; the lady’s is ornately engraved then filled with blue lacquer.

On the reverse side, the dials are more individual. The gentleman’s features an aventurine dial with the celestial arrangement of the night sky over the place of his birth on his birth date; the lady’s is decorated with an ornate miniature painting of a flower bouquet on a mother-of-pearl dial. This design is a traditional BOVET 1822 motif, chosen by and personalised for the owner.

Both reverse dials have hand-engraved Bespoke sculptures of Boat Tail, complete with wheels, door handle, mirrors and other fine details. By working closely together, the teams at Rolls-Royce and BOVET 1822 were able to achieve a precise colour match between the lacquer on this tiny work of art and the full-size motor car.

Further close cooperation was required to ensure the timepieces conformed to the demands of their unique role as motor car clocks. In watchmaking, weight is rarely an issue for a complex timepiece, but in this instance, there was a limit on the combined permissible weight of the timepieces and their holders. BOVET 1822 met this requirement by creating an entirely new 44mm white gold case. In addition, the timepieces and holders also had to be tested to automotive-industry standards for vibration and crash safety – something never previously undertaken on mechanisms of this kind.

At a conservative estimate, the timepieces’ design, engineering, sculptures, miniature painting, marquetry, bespoke movements and cases took a total of 3,000 hours to complete.

THE TRANSFORMATIVE TOURBILLON

When a pocket-watch is left static in one position for any length of time, the effect of gravity on key moving parts can impair its accuracy. At the end of the 18th Century, watchmakers solved this problem by developing the tourbillon, where the escapement and balance wheel are mounted in a cage that slowly revolves, cancelling out the gravitational effect. In a wristwatch, the wearer’s natural physical movements diminish the need for the tourbillon. However, when that same timepiece is mounted vertically in a car dashboard for many hours at a time, the tourbillon truly comes into its own.

BOVET 1822 is a specialist in tourbillion timepieces, for which it holds a number of patents and has received many awards including the Aiguille d’Or, watchmaking’s highest honour. It is also one of the only companies in the watch industry to manufacture its own spirals and regulating organs. To reduce potential impact from the vibration from the car, the tourbillon has pivots rather than the traditional ball bearings; a heavier balance wheel and an increased oscillation rate to aid precision. Finally, the tourbillon bridge is finished with a miniaturised Spirit of Ecstasy handcrafted in gold.

The timepieces have an astonishing five-day power reserve, rather than the 42-48 hours of a ‘standard’ watch, to allow for their role as motor car clocks.

DASHBOARD HOLDER MECHANISM: PERFECT PRECISION 

The holder mechanism is unique to Rolls-Royce Boat Tail and was designed by BOVET 1822 engineers and the Rolls-Royce Coachbuild design team from a blank sheet of paper. Although in a Rolls-Royce vibration is naturally reduced to an absolute minimum – undetectable vibrations are inevitably still present. This highly complex mounting assembly serves to isolate the timepieces from these micro-vibrations. It also ensures they operate silently, are easy to mount and remove from the dashboard and, above all, remain safe and secure.

These challenges were unlike any normally encountered in watchmaking and car manufacture. From the start, BOVET 1822 was determined to follow a purely mechanical approach in keeping with its tradition of Swiss handcrafted production. The engineers’ innovative solution was to keep all the system’s moving parts external, with the dashboard providing a solid setting for the holder. Finally, Rolls-Royce ensured that when the holder is not housing one of the time pieces, it can be covered with a beautiful engraved and lacquered display plaque.  Below the clock, the dashboard is fitted with a special drawer, lined with the same leather as Boat Tail’s seats, which serves as a safekeeping receptacle to house the timepieces, straps, chain and pendant when not in use.

ROLLS-ROYCE BOAT TAIL TIMEPIECES FACTS & FIGURES

Case Size: Bespoke; diameter – 44mm; thickness – 14mm

Case Type: 18K white gold Fleurier case; BOVET 1822 bow at 12 o’clock; 49 components

Case Function: Amadeo Convertible System; reversible; pocket watch on chain; pendant watch on necklace; table clock; dashboard clock

Case Finishing: Men’s timepiece is high polish finish; Women’s timepiece is hand-engraved then filled with blue lacquer

Movement: Bespoke 60-second tourbillon; manual-wind; 284 components (without dial and hands); 21,600 v/h

Functions: Hours and minutes on both sides (reverse hand-fitting); power reserve indicator on front

Power Reserve: 5 days

Men’s Front Dial: Hand-made wood marquetry dial; hand-engraved Spirit of Ecstasy sculpture fixed to the tourbillon bridge; “A Special Timepiece Commission” on the dial

Women’s Front Dial: Hand-made wood marquetry dial; hand-engraved 18K white gold Spirit of Ecstasy sculpture; “A Special Timepiece Commission” on the dial

Men’s Reverse Dial: Blue aventurine glass with sky chart of owner’s birth day and birth place; hand-engraved bespoke Boat Tail sculpture, lacquered to match the colour of the car then miniature painted by hand to add the details; lady’s name engraved on the mirror-polished (by hand by the watchmaker) tourbillon bridge

Women’s Reverse Dial: Miniature hand-painting of flower bouquet on mother-of-pearl dial (based on historical BOVET 1822 timepiece, customised); hand-engraved bespoke Boat Tail sculpture, lacquered to match the colour of the car then miniature painted by hand to add the details; gentleman’s name (engraved on the mirror-polished (by hand by the watchmaker) tourbillon bridge

Dashboard Holder: Aluminium and Titanium; 51 components; Engraving of two Rolls-Royce Boat Tails in a white gold case, to match that of the timepieces, to place inside when the timepiece is not present (100% engineered, designed, and produced in-house by BOVET)

In-car Drawer: to hold timepieces, straps, chain, necklace

Independent laboratory certification: shock, temperature, humidity, vibration

/by
, , , , , , , ,

CHIARA FERRAGNI BECOMES A NEW HUBLOT GLOBAL AMBASSADOR AND FACE OF THE GLOBAL CAMPAIGN

CHIARA FERRAGNI BECOMES A NEW HUBLOT GLOBAL AMBASSADOR AND FACE OF THE GLOBAL CAMPAIGN

Fusion under the influence – With Chiara, everything is possible

Chiara Ferragni has joined the Hublot family in the company of many legendary personalities such as football legend Pelé, tennis world No. 1 Novak Djokovic, track and field champions Dina Asher-Smith and Usain Bolt and three Michelin star chef Clare Smyth. She lights up everything she touches and creates, she is a natural-born winner and shines her aura over everything she loves and chooses.

Today, she has chosen Hublot. So why Chiara Ferragni and why Hublot?

Everything I do, I do to share. The things I love, the people I love, the things I experience, my daily life, my children, my work: I put my heart into everything to inspire others, to believe in themselves and their dreams. I found my ikigai in 2009. I managed to combine my passion with my talent in response to a need and now it has become my business. By opening the door to who I am and what I experience, I am also hoping to inspire the women of today not to choose between being a wife, a mother or an entrepreneur. All these roles complete me, just as they complete each other. Beauty drives everything I do. Not only inner beauty, but everything I see around me. That is reflected in my collaborations, my words, my charity work and my daily life. Why Hublot? Because Hublot is not like any other watch brand, it follows its own distinctive path, with determination: It follows its dreams of innovation, while respecting traditions; it seeks beauty both inside and out, by showcasing much more than athletic performance or the success of a family member, it celebrates the reasons for this performance and success, in other words, the ability to be first, different and unique. Hublot’s messages and values speak to me, that’s why I have chosen to join this family today. A fusion of passion and determination has shaped who I am, across all my roles, and forged the businesswoman I have become. This same fusion has also made Hublot the company it is today.

Chiara Ferragni
Hublot Brand Ambassador

Who does not know Chiara Ferragni? Her extraordinary destiny is not down to luck, this visionary and determined woman is someone who learnt how to grow and evolve with her time. By portraying and sharing who she is and what she loves, she has realised her dream, inspiring the men and women of her generation to believe that anything is possible. As someone who is both authentic and spontaneous, she has turned her happy, positive and generous nature into her trademark. As a visionary and pioneer, she has been able to move with the times by dominating the digital platforms and turning her passion into a real business. Her passion became her job, and her natural talent transformed into a success that is seemingly within everyone’s reach. Her inspiring journey proves that anything is possible; it’s the stuff of dreams, while being very real. Who wouldn’t want to live and realise their dreams like Chiara Ferragni? At Hublot, we love inspiring women and men who believe in their dreams and move heaven and earth to fulfil them, who assert their distinctive personality, are willing to go out on a limb, who are not afraid of what people will say and who follow their path with authenticity and passion.
That’s why Chiara fits so well into our family.

Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO

Surely, one no longer needs to present Chiara Ferragni?

Well yes, if only to highlight the very nature of this woman, a so-called influencer, a term too small to encompass all her talents. As a business woman, entrepreneur, influencer, wife and mother of two, she embodies that ‘can do’ attitude that everyone finds so inspiring.Twelve years after launching theblondesalad.com, Chiara Ferragni has achieved a success story. When she started out, Instagram did not exist and blogging was in its infancy. It took Chiara only a few months to turn a hobby into a business, attracting the attention of the media and the fashion world, and placing her name alongside the biggest luxury brands.

First, Unique, Different. Just like Hublot! She single-handedly created a job for herself, followed her instincts, asserted her choice to share and talk about her life. Honoured several times by Forbes, her career path has even inspired a study by the prestigious Harvard University to understand her success.

In tune with her times, Chiara is leaving her mark on the world. She resolutely believes in her dreams. A dreamer she may be, but she is firmly rooted in her land and her roots. Chiara Ferragni draws her strength from the stability of her family, her parents and two sisters; she has gone on to recreate this strength through her own family, which she has built with Fedez.

So, is it natural talent, intuition or destiny? What if was a bit of all three? Whatever the case, what is certain is that she achieves firsts with her writing, she asserts her uniqueness, and her difference while retaining that very inclusive feeling of being the ‘girl next door…’

She is an entrepreneur who embodies the digital revolution and the arrival of social media. Chiara is a pioneer, she is constantly achieving firsts. With her fashion blog, launched 12 years ago, she was immediately considered the most influential and most famous blogger in the world. She created her own brand of shoes, then clothing in 2015— Chiara Ferragni Brand, —she was also the first to be listed as the world’s most powerful influencer. Indeed, there is no shortage of superlatives to describe her career and she is not afraid to use them. Both her real life and her digital world are filled with sharing, joy, values and optimism. She is unique, that’s for sure! She is proud of her uniqueness, after transforming her name into a brand, a trademark, a style and an inspiration. She also uses her platforms and visibility to help the causes that are close to her heart. Ultimately, what makes her different is that she has managed to turn her passion, her daily routine and her life into a true success story. She is also different for resembling a generation of women who live with the times and manage to combine several roles, without placing any filters between the different parts of their lives. With an Instagram community of 24.7 million followers, she shares her daily life as a wife, mother and entrepreneur openly and frankly. Chiara is an inspirational figure.
Chiara and Hublot, how it began


You may remember the pictures of Chiara Ferragni wearing the Big Bang Millenial Pink. A unisex watch with an inclusive message, produced as a limited edition of 200 pieces in a shade chosen by Lapo Elkann and designed in collaboration with Garage Italia. Since this project, Chiara and Hublot have simply understood that there were many similarities between their worlds.
So, get ready, because what Chiara & Hublot are preparing for you is likely to make a big impression, once again… First, Unique, Different!
To stay up-to-date, follow: @Hublot #Hublot

HUBLOT
Founded in Switzerland in 1980, HUBLOT is defined by its innovation, which began with the highly original combination of gold and rubber. This “Art of Fusion” stems from the imagination of its visionary Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, and has been driven forward by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe since 2012.

The release of the iconic, multi-award-winning Big Bang in 2005 paved the way for new flagship collections (Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang), with complications ranging from the simple to the highly sophisticated, establishing the extraordinary DNA of the Swiss watchmaking house and ensuring its impressive growth.
Keen to preserve its traditional and cutting-edge expertise, and guided by its philosophy to “Be First, Different and Unique”, the Swiss watchmaker is consistently ahead of the curve, through its innovations in materials (scratch-resistant Magic Gold, ceramics in vibrant colours, sapphire), and the creation of Manufacture movements (Unico, Meca-10, Tourbillon).
HUBLOT is fully committed to creating a Haute Horlogerie brand with a visionary future: a future which is fused with the key events of our times (FIFA World CupTM, UEFA Champions LeagueTM, UEFA EUROTM) and the finest ambassadors our era has to offer (Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, Pelé, Novak Djokovic).
Discover the HUBLOT universe at our network of boutiques located in key cities across the globe: Geneva, Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich and at HUBLOT.com

/by
, , , , ,

Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Reverso Tribute minute repeater

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

/by
, , , ,

HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE

HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE

The most streamed French artist in the world, with a slew of international hits, DJ Snake is joining forces with Hublot to unveil an exclusive creation: the Big Bang DJ Snake. A watch boasting a myriad of facets, just like the talented artist who inspired it.

“To be able to wear – and also offer my fans – a watch which reflects my personality is something that has been very important to me since the start of my partnership with Hublot. I am delighted to have been able to combine my inspiration with the expertise of the fantastic watchmakers and technicians at this Swiss brand.” – DJ Snake


“DJ Snake turns everything he touches to gold! We are thrilled to have been able to channel his outstanding creativity into this new limited edition piece. The result is truly multifaceted, just like DJ Snake’s talents!” – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

DJ Snake has such a huge presence in today’s musical landscape that he needs no introduction. The electronic music star first came to public attention with the track “Turn Down For What”, released in 2013. Since then, the hits have racked up: “Lean On”, “Loco Contigo”, “Let Me Love You” with Justin Bieber, and “Selfish Love” with Selena Gomez. Diplo, Kanye West, Lil Jon… the collaborations keep on coming! He became the first French artist to have two songs with over a billion plays on Spotify, and the awards have rained down: Billboard Music Awards; MTV Music Awards; and no fewer than three NRJ Music Awards.

Hublot and DJ Snake have been partners since January 1st 2018, when he presided over the decks at Hublot’s closing evening during the FIFA World Cup in Russia.

Three years later, the first watch of this partnership is being unveiled:  The Big Bang DJ Snake.

The instantly recognizable and iconic design of the Big Bang now has an iridescent shine, with countless blue and purple hues. The bezel and the six titanium components of the 45-mm case are treated with a special and technical manufacturing process, similar to a black PVD treatment.  During the process, the different components of the watch must each be placed in specific positions when they are coated with different colors. The result is an optical effect in which the colors of the watch change depending on the light and when viewed from different angles. Not only that, but the surface of the parts was hardened before the iridescent treatment in order to improve its adherence. This operation is a complex one as it is difficult to obtain the same gradation of colour on each of the 100 watches being produced. The cut-outs on the outer edge of the bezel were designed by DJ Snake himself. These notches make the Big Bang DJ Snake immediately recognisable, distinguishing it from other collections. An illustration of the “Art of Fusion” philosophy so dear to Hublot!

On the upper face of the sapphire dial in the same colours as the case, a globe is featured, the signature of the electronic music star. A nod both to his travels across the planet for his concerts and to the fact that his hits have made the world his home. The lower section is skeletonised and treated to create sections with a black fumé finish.

This semi-transparent finish allows a glimpse of the famous calibre HUB1242 UNICO movement, a flyback chronograph with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Big Bang DJ Snake will be supplied with two straps which are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s patented One Click system. The first is made from rubber, with a grey, black and purple camouflage pattern echoing the myriad colours reflected by the watch case. The second, also rubber, has a black ribbed structure. The clasp on these straps also features the same “Newton’s Rings” effect as the case and bezel.

/by
, , , ,

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

A high-precision chronograph  embellished with a unique natural Swiss stone dial  in support of the Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy

Chopard has once again committed itself to the Only Watch sale by offering a one-of-a-kind timepiece inspired by nature: the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch chronograph, specially created in support of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy. Since 2005, this charity project has brought together more than 50 watch manufacturers in a formidable creative drive.

Bearing ultimate testimony to the expertise and inventiveness of Chopard’s watchmakers, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is distinguished by its dial in Swiss granite from the Graubünden region, speckled with blue and green inclusions recalling the colours of the Alpine massif seen from the sky. It brings two novel touches to the Alpine Eagle collection: for the first time, a case made of beadblasted Lucent Steel A223 and a calf leather strap. Three patents have been filed for the chronometer-certified Chopard 03.05-C flyback chronograph movement that powers it.

An original design inspired by the beauty of the Alps

Above and beyond its technical prowess, the Alpine Eagle collection has been a guarantee of aesthetic finesse ever since its launch, entirely aligned with Louis Sullivan’s “form follows function” doctrine. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch fully reflects this principle. On the right-hand side, the chronograph pushers are subtly and discreetly integrated on either side of the protective crown guards so as to preserve the Alpine Eagle’s characteristic harmony of form and symmetry.

With the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch, harmony also reigns supreme on the dial, which is adorned with a carefully selected natural Swiss stone: an exceptional granite quarried in the canton of Graubünden. Its blue and green inclusions have been chosen to evoke the beauty of the Alpine forests and lakes as seen from the sky by an eagle.

One of these breathtaking landscapes is the Lauenensee. This lake in the canton of Bern is a place dear to Only Watch founder and organiser Luc Pettavino, who liked to go there with his son Paul, whose illness gave rise to this charity project. It is also an iconic landmark for Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who presented the Alpine Eagle collection there for the first time in 2019, along with his father and son. Their shared admiration for this place of refuge justifies the rich decorative work gracing the dial, and exuding a sophistication that contributes to the aesthetic originality and symbolic value of the watch.

The addition of the black counters for the 30-minute, small seconds and 12-hour indications – respectively placed at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock – is carefully designed to highlight the natural hue of the granite. To enhance the legibility of measurements, the dial transfers and the three hands linked to the chronograph function match these precious inclusions, as well as the tachymeter scale, also discreetly punctuated by blue-green transfers at the 100, 160 and 240 graduations. Divided into four steps, the scale features intervals varying from 5, 10, 20 or 40km/h per line. This arrangement facilitates the reading of average speed measurements.

The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the first timepiece in the collection to be fitted with a black calf leather strap.

A cutting-edge chronograph movement

The extra-wide 44 mm-diameter case of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is sculpted in Lucent Steel A223, an innovative steel alloy made from 70 percent recycled material and developed by Chopard for its anti-allergenic properties and its robustness, as well as its incomparable brilliance achieved through a meticulous resmelting process. In another first, this material has been beadblasted, thereby creating an even nobler texture and accentuating the avant-garde spirit of Lucent Steel A223.

At the heart of the case beats a sophisticated chronograph movement manufactured by Chopard’s Artisan Watchmakers and endowed with a precision chronometer, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Chopard Calibre 03.05-C has a 60-hour power reserve and also features an elaborate design guaranteeing accurate adjustments and optimal use of the timekeeping functions. Equipped with a column wheel, it represents the culmination of several technical innovations for which Chopard has filed three patents resulting from the daring approach of its research and development teams.

Firstly, it is equipped with a unidirectional gearing system that avoids energy losses while ensuring fast winding, a function particularly appreciated for chronographs which are known to be consistently energy-hungry. In addition, its vertical clutch mode guarantees an accurate start for time measurements. This chronograph calibre is also of the flyback variety, enabling smooth and seamless short-time measurements thanks to three elastic-armed pivoting hammers that facilitate zero-resetting the counters.

Chopard and Only Watch, a heart-felt partnership

The ninth edition of Only Watch – considered the world’s most important charity watchauction – will be held on 6 November in Geneva. More than 50 watch manufacturers have each donated a unique timepiece, specially created for the occasion. The profits from this sale will be entirely donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy to help fund research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic neuromuscular disease affecting 250,000 children, adolescents and young adults worldwide. Since its creation in 2005, Only Watch has already raised over 70 million Swiss francs.

“We are delighted to support the cause of major scientific research into a disease that affects so many children and adults”, says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “Ever since our first participation in 2005, this longstanding commitment has enabled us to develop unique and daring models stemming from lengthy aesthetic and technical research, endowed with powerful distinctive features that our collectors have not necessarily expected.”

The Alpine Eagle collection: reinterpreting an icon

Devised by three generations of gentlemen in the Scheufele family, the Alpine Eagle collection is a modern reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first horological creation by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in the late 1970s. With its pure and assertive design, Alpine Eagle enriches this heritage with powerful inspiration drawn from Nature. Featuring a round case with stylised flanks; a material exclusive to Chopard (Lucent Steel A223); a crown engraved with a compass rose; a bezel with eight functional indexed screws; a textured dial with deep colours and luminescent indications; and a seconds hand shaped like an eagle’s feather, Alpine Eagle radiates a resolutely contemporary look of refined elegance.

Chopard’s independence and integrated skills enables the Maison to perform the entire range of the collection’s production and assembly stages in its own workshops, from movement to bracelet as well as components and case.

Technical details

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

One-of-a-kind model

 

 

Case:

Beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Total diameter                                                                                 44.00 mm

Thickness                                                                                        13.15 mm

Water resistance                                                                            100 metres

Crown in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

with compass rose                                                                         8 mm

Crown guards and pushers in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Caseband in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Bezel in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223 with eight screws set at a tangent

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal and Only Watch logo

 

Movement

Mechanical movement with automatic winding                        Chopard 03.05-C

Column-wheel chronograph with integrated construction

Number of components                                                                310

Diameter                                                                                          28.80 mm

Thickness                                                                                        7.60 mm

Number of jewels                                                                           45

Frequency                                                                                       28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve                                                                                60 hours

Annual balance with balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve

Patented chronograph zero-resetting system with pivoting hammers and elastic arm

Patented seconds hand zero-resetting system

Patented vertical coupling clutch

Openworked tungsten alloy central rotor

Chromometer-certified (COSC)

 

Dial and hands

Dial made of granite from Switzerland’s Graubünden region

Black counters with white transfers

Applied rhodium-plated numerals and hour-markers enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®

Black inner bezel ring and chronograph counters

Rhodium-plated baton-type hours and minutes hands enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®

Rhodium-plated, turquoise-tipped arrow-type seconds hand with eagle feather counterweight

Rhodium-plated, turquoise-tipped chronograph counter hands

 

Functions

Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds

Semi-instantaneous date display between 4 and 5 o’clock

Chronograph with flyback function

30-minute counter at 3 o’clock

12-hour counter at 9 o’clock

Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Stop-seconds function

Strap and clasp

Black calfskin strap with black bridle stitching and beadblasted titanium inlay

Triple folding clasp in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

Ref. 298609-3005 – in beadblasted Lucent Steel A223

One-of-a-kind model created for Only Watch

/by