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Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface: a contemporary aesthetic for a model reflecting Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

  • A new openworked sapphire face for the Traditionnelle complete calendar watch, interpreted through two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold
  • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with triple calendar and precision moon phase
  • A highly contemporary aesthetic for these timepieces, heirs to Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

Geneva,- Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The openworked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.

Revisiting the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva’s watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCL/2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.

Airy construction

The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers – embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment – highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.

The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.

Calibre 2460 QCL/2

Beating at the heart of these two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, it beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.

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Sum-up

The two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watches in white and pink gold combine the classic attributes of the collection with an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The dial is made of sapphire crystal opening onto the movement featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic treatment. This total transparency on both sides of the watch highlights the technical nature of its horological complications. Equipped with a self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/2, these two 41 mm models provide a complete calendar display complemented by age of the moon and precision moon phase indications. The day and month are shown through central dial apertures below the 12 o’clock hour-marker, while the date is indicated on the periphery by a central hand. Already available in rose and white gold in a more classic interpretation with a solid dial, the two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface versions are paired with a grey alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654

Calibre
2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Assembled in three parts:

  • Slate grey guilloche upper part
  • Slate grey opaline flange
  • Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers

18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

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The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey URWERK’s latest flash of brilliance

The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey

URWERK’s latest flash of brilliance

Amid the calm and serene skies of Haute Horlogerie, an unidentified flying object is looming on the horizon. Could it be the announcement of an imminent upheaval? The intuition of an emotional cataclysm?

Flashing across the night sky, the new UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey appears in a shower of metal! The latest evolution of the UR-112 features a new titanium and steel fuselage. With this limited edition, URWERK – creator of ‘space opera’ watches – pushes its limits further than ever… to infinity and beyond!

Gleaming like Padme Amidala’s J-type 327; equipped with two large round eye-like windows like Archie; the ‘owl ship’ from Watchmen. Streamlined like a Klingon Bird of Prey. Grooved like the hull of the Battlestar Galactica. The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssée emerges from the URWERK shipyard in a limited edition, featuring an infinite number of flat, curved, grooved, sculpted, screwed and bonded surfaces, all incorporating advanced finishes alternating between matt and glossy, sandblasted and polished. This painstaking, meticulous work contributes to enhancing the two large cockpits where the rotating prisms representing the UR-112’s unique signature operate, akin to two advanced observation posts.

Sophisticated textures

The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey is the successor to the UR-112 Aggregat Two-Tone. The upper part of this wrist spacecraft is suitable for polishing. The grooved steel cover opens vertically to give access to the secondary power reserve and digital seconds indications. It is mirror-polished on the top with a beadblasted edge. Its central titanium body is satin-brushed, grooved, sandblasted and beadblasted, thereby forming a field of functional microdots. The two steel wings of the UR-112 Odyssey fit into this central body.

Each zone, each space, each element has its own texture, its own finish, its own language. Martin Frei, co-founder of URWERK and head designer, said: “I am lucky enough to experience the birth of our creations first-hand – in the workshops and in close proximity with our watchmakers. I witness the final assembly. I see the material come to life, and even more importantly, finishes that existed only in my mind materialize before my eyes. Like the pencil strokes that draw and refine the outlines of the watch on paper, the traces of machining on the titanium and steel render its creative process visible. It then takes all the magic and mastery of the craftsman’s hand to transcript this emotion in the finished product, which is beadblasted, satin-brushed and polished. In the case of the UR-112, this was a particularly long and trying process, a real odyssey, which enabled us to convert the strength of the raw material into the refinement of the finished product. “

Digital sequence

The UR-112 belongs to the Special Project line. This is a departure from the founding concept of URWERK’s wandering-hour indication, on a whole new scale. There are no cubes, no carousel with arms, no 120-degree sector-type indication like on so many models that have marked the history of URWERK over the last 25 years. The UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey displays jumping hours and trailing minutes on prisms. Shifted to the front of the watch, they are visible in their large sapphire crystal housings. As the hours jump on one side and the minutes advance in five-minute increments on the other, an additional trailing indicator shows the precise minutes. Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of URWERK and master watchmaker said: “Once again we have let our guts speak for us in making a spaceship, a UFO that is a technical challenge. This UR-112 is pure madness in terms of the mechanics and the finishes. We will only be able to make a very limited number and there may be just five of them, but this is sheer unadulterated watchmaking pleasure!”

Heart of the reactor

The central body of the case contains the driving and regulating components of the UR-13.01 caliber: a large barrel providing 48 hours of power reserve, coupled with an automatic-winding rotor. Pressing the two pushers on the sides of the watch opens the cover to reveal the power-reserve indicator and the spectacular small seconds. The latter is composed of a skeletonized silicon disk attached to a red anodized aluminum bridge, a typical URWERK design feature.

Spatio-temporal module

A long, thin rod stands out in the middle of this incredible vessel. Measuring several centimeters in length, it is possibly the longest component in contemporary watchmaking. To guarantee its lightness and rigidity, this cardan shaft is made of titanium and ensures the coupling with the display module, located at the front of the shell. It establishes this link thanks to a new succession of gears that drive the hours and minutes prisms via two 90° bevel gears. The black aluminum prisms featuring grooved sides are enhanced with Super-LumiNovaTM and are secured by planetary systems that ensure they rotate both on their axis and in space. This kinematic approach calls for absolute precision and contributes to endowing the UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey with a totally unique and unconventional design. So URWERK!

UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey

Limited edition

Price: CHF 250,000.00 (Swiss francs / excluding tax)

MOVEMENT

Caliber: UR-13.01 automatic
Jewels: 66
Escapement: Swiss lever-type
Frequency: 4 Hz; 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 48 hours
Materials Aluminum hours and minutes satellite prisms; titanium cardan shaft, silicon second wheel
Surface finishing: Circular graining, sandblasting, Côtes de Genève, polished screw heads
   
   
INDICATIONS

 

 Jumping digital hours and trailing digital minutes on satellite prisms; silicon digital seconds; power-reserve indicator

 
   
CASE  
Dimensions: Width 42mm; length 51mm; thickness 16 mm
Materials Titanium, steel
Glass Sapphire crystal
Water resistance Pressure tested to 3 ATM / 100 ft / 30 m
   

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Audemars Piguet - The 34 mm Royal Oak selfwinding in black ceramic returns
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Audemars Piguet – The 34 mm Royal Oak selfwinding in black ceramic returns

THE 34 MM ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING IN BLACK CERAMIC RETURNS WITH A SUBTLE DESIGN EVOLUTION FOR THE COLLECTION’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has slightly evolved the 34 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding fully dressed in black ceramic on the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.

While the case’s design remains unchanged, the black dial benefits from the Royal Oak’s latest design evolution debuted in 2022 on several 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm Royal Oak models. The watch is also fitted with the Royal Oak’s dedicated anniversary oscillating weight.

MORE NUANCED DIAL DESIGN

Similarly to last year, this 34 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding timepiece adorns a black guilloché “Grande Tapisserie” dial contrasted with scintillating pink gold accents. Yet, it benefits from the refined dial design evolution debuting in 2022 on some of the Royal Oak models in 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm.

The logo now presents an applied Audemars Piguet signature crafted in 24-carat pink gold achieved through galvanic growth – a chemical process akin to 3D printing. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed by hand on the dial with tiny legs almost invisible to the eye. This long-form signature appears at 12 o’clock without the AP monogram for added refinement.

While keeping with the Royal Oak’s aesthetic codes, the size and length of the faceted hour-markers and hands have been harmonised with the rest of the anniversary Royal Oak Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph models across the collection for optimum visibility.

BLACK CERAMIC ILLUMINATED WITH PINK GOLD

Similarly to last year’s version, the watch’s black ceramic case and bracelet are embellished with 18-carat pink gold hexagonal screws, which secure the bezel onto the case, for a refined two-tone contrast. All the case and bracelet components have been finished by hand with the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers, providing an ever-changing play of light.

“Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”  

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ROGER DUBUIS – Paints Downtown Red

A TALE OF LEGENDARY CRAFT

THE KNIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE

Passion. Commitment. Boldness. The codes of chivalry may be thousands of years old but their virtues are still alive within the minds of many. That is why excellence continues to be the goal for Roger Dubuis. Yet the Maison’s ultimate mission is its perpetual quest to challenge the rules of the game – and represent the future of Hyper Horology as a result.

This mindset is taken to new heights for the latest evolution of the iconic Knights of the Round Table collection. Setting a new standard, the timepiece is adorned with rare artistic mastery, outstanding craftsmanship and unbridled creativity. Infused with the legacy of a legend, yet designed with the future in mind, it is a powerful statement for the here and now. For the modern wearer who understands how the strength of the past creates power in the present – and beyond. But this story of legendary craft cannot just be told to anyone. It is a privilege reserved for a few. Ones in the know. Bold enough to discover it? Take a seat at the table.

FORGING A MYTH THROUGH MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP

The threat is real. The battle is on. In the mysterious depths of a forgotten place, twelve brave knights prepare to defend their kingdom against the power of gravitational force. The ground is fracturing, the broken earth begins to crack. Sensing danger, the knights position themselves against this invisible enemy. Will they triumph?

Bringing a legend to life in the most exciting way yet, twelve hour-marked knights cast in 18k 750/1000 pink gold are designed to appear in flux in their own unique postures. This is the true feat of hyper-expressive craftsmanship that took a year and a half to master. Through the complex art of micro-sculpture, each character is complete with medieval armour, plates, shield and helmet, while their customised weapons are drawn ready to fight whatever bursts from beneath their feet. Here lies the stage that required the manual hand-assembly of each and every piece of the glass puzzle. With fine detailing as intricate as this, Roger Dubuis all but proves its métiers d’art credentials. An honour – like those of the knights – reserved for the few, whatever era it’s found within.

Symbolising an imagined scene where the knights prepare to defend themselves from imminent danger, each warrior is settled against a transparent blood red flange developed from precious Murano glass. This artisanal rarity is also used to construct the dark and shiny texture of the black dial. Part of the great Venetian tradition, Murano glass bends light in uniquely modern and interesting ways.

ARMED WITH HOROLOGICAL MASTERY

The evolved Knights of the Round Table timepiece merges a legend from the past with futuristic design cues to produce a charismatic emblem for right now. Powered by an automatic Monobalancier RD821 calibre, its new contemporary finish and design includes a clean-cut case made from a rich and remarkable 18k 750/1000 pink gold.  Just as the fiercely brave knights are loyal to their oath of duty, the Maison is loyal to hyper expressive craftsmanship. Indeed, maintaining the highest standards of excellence included hand-finishing all parts of this 45mm movement with meticulous care, and according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

Meanwhile, the crown and its protector are intentionally shaped like the guard of a sword, designed to appear as if a blade is stuck inside the watch, just like the Excalibur sword in the stone that Arthur was crowned a king for pulling free.

To make the most of the knight’s fine detailing, a new transparent sapphire crystal ring under the bezel provides a full view of their elaborate facets. Now, discerning collectors are secretly invited to enjoy all aspects of their features with this hyper exclusive view available only to them.

On the back of the case, the oscillating weight is completely redesigned with a circular finish comprised of two woven layers of tilted pyramid shapes that create the appearance of castle-stained glass. Inspired by the triangular notches around the edge of the timepiece, this sophisticated design choice provides a mesmeric view of the weight moving inside the mosaic. Around the display an engraving of the famous oath spoken, as the legend goes, by all knights who sought to defend King Arthur reads: “Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak and humbling the proud.” Honouring this mythical sentiment, yet designed to mark the cues of the modern world, the wearer can lean into a legend from the past to bring him power in the present.

A black calf leather strap – the first of the Knights of the Round Table collection to feature a Quick Release System – allows for easy interchangeability, while completing the luxurious look and feel of this legendary timepiece fit for the warrior of today.

Only a few privileged have the honour of wearing a Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table timepiece; a hyper expressive timepiece that combines the power, myth and know-how of the past and the modern world. That’s why scarcity must reign when it comes to craft like this. With a limited series of 28 pieces available exclusively in Roger Dubuis boutiques, will you become one of the lucky few?

A secret unearthed, a valiant quest embarked upon. But a legend does not die that easily, and neither does danger. What else might emerge from the deepest depths? To be continued….

NO RULES. OUR GAME.

ABOUT ROGER DUBUIS

The rush of adrenalin, a pounding heart, the sure and certain knowledge that something is about to happen: ENTER THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY. Impertinent, excessive, incisive, uncompromising, and slightly mad, this is Roger Dubuis. Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture, an innovative spirit, a flagrant disregard for convention and irrepressible daring are the cornerstones of its irrepressibly bold attitude; the lifeblood of its non-conformist and unmistakably contemporary timepieces. That’s what Roger Dubuis is all about!  Laugh, scream, roar, and above all, create… for an exclusive tribe that believes in the value of living larger than life at every turn. Inspired by other cutting-edge industries and out-of-the-box designs, boundary-pushing technical sophistication combined with an inbred passion for extravagance to prove, time and time again, that Roger Dubuis is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology.

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Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound
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Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe ”Advanced Research”

The manufacture presents a pioneering innovation for one of its most significant fields of competence – chiming watches.

The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” have extended the horizon of its chiming watches by developing a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality. Crowned by four patents, the pioneering technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

The spirit of innovation has been in Patek Philippe’s DNA since the company was founded. True to this uninterrupted tradition, the manufacture has spared no effort to further push the limits of watchmaking artistry and move at the forefront of technical development. But Patek Philippe considers innovations to be meaningful only if they offer the user genuine added value in terms of quality, precision, and dependability in the long run.Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.

To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.). Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar.

In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.

A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer.

Today, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department can present an important technical milestone in a domain that relates to the superb competencies of the manufacture: the chiming watches, or, more precisely, the minute repeaters. As regards these grand complications, Patek Philippe offers the largest portfolio of regularly produced models.Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions. After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm. Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.

A flexibly suspended sound lever

To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm. When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A new type of sound propagation

Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass. Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring. The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing. Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.

Platinum components

Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.A limited edition of 15 watches

To present the exclusive system of sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe is launching a limited special edition of the watch as was the case previously with the “Advanced Research” innovations. The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges – 950 platinum.

In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same openworked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges. The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.

With its unique fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” presents an innovation that will seduce all enthusiasts of minute repeaters and technical debuts. It opens up totally new horizons for chiming watches.

Patents

Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer:
PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Sound amplification mechanism:
EP3812844 A1 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Platinum hammers:
CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG

Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT

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RETURN TO THE ORIGINS OF YELLOW GOLD: HUBLOT RECONNECTS WITH ITS FOUNDING SPIRIT

RETURN TO THE ORIGINS OF YELLOW GOLD: HUBLOT RECONNECTS WITH ITS FOUNDING SPIRIT

The new https://www.hublot.com/ pieces exclusively unveiled at LVMH Watch Week recapture the original essence of the manufacture: the fusion of gold and rubber in a sporty chic aesthetic, at a time when, over 40 years ago, the concept of the sport chic watch didn’t even exist.

Each of these six pieces represents a little piece of the manufacture’s history and the way in which it is moving forward. A clear line between what Hublot was, is and will be. Charting 40 years of history, expertise, creativity, total technical mastery and the foundations of a legend which, 40 years ago, had just one model: the Classic Original of 1980.

Today, each piece marks a chapter in the great Hublot adventure: the birth of the Big Bang, the Classic Fusion, the Spirit of Big Bang, the art of stone setting, skeleton work and the creation of the first manufacture movements, among others. In their own individual way, these six pieces fuse the aesthetic and technical elements of https://www.hublot.com/‘s signature. Yet always with a common denominator: yellow gold and black.

It finds its most essential expression in the Classic Fusion Chronograph. This is the first time it has been produced in yellow gold in a diameter of 42 mm. A clean, understated, stylish, self-winding bicompax: the first, original and unique.

It is followed closely by the Big Bang Integral, made entirely from yellow gold (case, bezel and bracelet). This version, designed from a single block of solid gold, is also available fully set with diamonds, alongside the ultimate Haute Joaillerie version.

This iconic trio is completed by the latest generation of https://www.hublot.com/ contemporary collections: the one and only Big Bang Unico, and the sculptural Spirit of Big Bang. The Big Bang is the first to feature a 42 mm case entirely in yellow gold with a rubber strap and Unico movement. It is the ultimate embodiment of Hublot’s 100% manufacture ethos, and features a calibre with a 3-day power reserve and an exterior that fuses yellow gold, deep black, skeleton work, performance and power.

And finally, the Spirit of Big Bang. Here the emphasis is on the design, which takes the form of an exquisite tonneau with alternating straight lines and curves, featuring polished and satin-finished surfaces of brilliant yellow gold which create a spectacular dance of light. In a 42 mm version with skeleton movement, it shares its One Click interchangeable strap system with the Big Bang and is still powered by the calibre HUB4700, one of the most accurate movements available with a rate of 5 Hz (36,000 vib/h).

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Backes & Strauss Announces ‘The Vitesse Collection’ in Collaboration with HRH Princess Michael Of Kent

Backes & Strauss Announces ‘The Vitesse Collection’ in Collaboration with HRH Princess Michael Of Kent

Backes & Strauss is delighted to announce the upcoming release of The Vitesse Collection of watches in collaboration with Her Royal Highness (HRH) Princess Michael of Kent.

Inspired by HRH’s lifelong passion and knowledge for the plight of Cheetah’s across the African continent, these exclusive watches show Backes & Strauss at its creative best while supporting vital efforts to preserve this extraordinary species.

“Time is of the essence to protect what remains of the worldwide Cheetah population, which currently sits at around 7,000 and continues to decline, I am especially passionate about this collaboration as it will raise awareness of the situation and benefit the Endangered Species Centre in South Africa and the Cheetah Conservation Fund in Namibia.”

— HRH SAID ON THE ANNOUNCEMENT.

PASSION FOR CHEETAHS

HRH’s interest in Cheetah dates back to her childhood in Mozambique, where she raised an orphaned cheetah cub named Vitesse, whom she hand-reared and later released into the wild after teaching her to survive on her own.

These experiences were the subject of 2017 autobiographical book A Cheetah’s Tale, which also explored the incredible bonds between animals and humans. The Princess also currently serves as the Royal Patron for both the benefitting organizations.

“This collaboration with HRH is the latest extremely exciting project for Backes & Strauss, as well as giving us the opportunity to produce stunning and unique timepieces, it will also help raise urgently needed funds to support conservation projects aimed at saving these beautiful cats from extinction.”

— COMPANY CEO VARTKESS KNADJIAN

VITESSE COLLECTION

The launch Vitesse Collection showcases several ‘Métiers d’art’ dials with hand painted cheetahs on enamel, mother-of-pearl, silk and green jade. There is also a dial with hand engraved cheetahs on a mother of pearl background. In addition there is an creative bezel set with Natural vivid yellow and black diamonds mimicking the skin pattern of the Cheetah.

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Legendary Depeche Mode front-man and Hublot Friend of the Brand, Dave Gahan

HUBLOT NAMED AS THE OFFICIAL PARTNER OF DAVE GAHAN’S SOLO TOUR

Legendary Depeche Mode front-man and Hublot Friend of the Brand, Dave Gahan, to begin special tour next month following release of new album Imposter To stay up-to-date, follow: @Hublot #Hublot

LONDON, November 2021 – Hublot loves Dave Gahan! The legendary Depeche Mode front-man, Rock and Roll hall of fame inductee, and Hublot Friend of the Brand has just released Imposter with his long-time collaborators Soulsavers. The new album is a story of songs, a stunning collection of soulful, poignant covers drawn from a rich tapestry of artists who’ve influenced his life and career in music, including Bob Dylan, Eartha Kitt and PJ Harvey. The album is Dave’s third collaboration with Soulsavers, following The Light & The Dead See in 2012 and Angels & Ghosts in 2015.


Hublot is proud to announce it will be the Official Partner of Dave’s solo tour, which begins on December 5th. Tickets for the first show at London’s Coliseum sold out instantly, prompting a second date on December 7th at London’s Shepherd’s Bush. Paris will welcome Dave Gahan’s solo tour at the Salle Pleyel on December 10th and the Berlin show will be held at the Admiralpalast on December 13th.Further tour dates and other special events will be announced in due course.

Hublot and Depeche Mode’s creative collaboration began in 2010. Through the partnership, there have been 5 various collections launched, while Hublot has been honoured to first support the band’s activities in aid of Teenage Cancer Trust in 2009, and then the non-profit organisation Charity:water.


HUBLOT
Founded in Switzerland in 1980, HUBLOT is defined by its innovation, which began with the highly original combination of gold and rubber. This “Art of Fusion” stems from the imagination of its visionary Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, and has been driven forward by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe since 2012. The release of the iconic, multi-award-winning Big Bang in 2005 paved the way for new flagship collections (Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang), with complications ranging from the simple to the highly sophisticated, establishing the extraordinary DNA of the Swiss watchmaking house and ensuring its impressive growth. Keen to preserve its traditional and cutting-edge expertise, and guided by its philosophy to “Be First, Different and Unique”, the Swiss watchmaker is consistently ahead of the curve, through its innovations in materials (scratchresistant Magic Gold, ceramics in vibrant colours, sapphire), and the creation of Manufacture movements (Unico,
Meca-10, Tourbillon). HUBLOT is fully committed to creating a Haute Horlogerie brand with a visionary future: a future which is fused with the key events of our times (FIFA World CupTM, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) and the finest ambassadors our era has to offer (Chiara Ferragni, Pelé, Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, Novak Djokovic). Discover the HUBLOT universe at our network of boutiques located in key cities across the globe: Geneva, Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich and at HUBLOT.com
We love Dave Gahan! It’s been an incredible journey working with Dave and Depeche Mode and supporting their tours and their charity projects over the years. It brought us such great
joy to hear his new material and see him touring with Soulsavers again. What a voice! What a talent!”
Ricardo Guadalupe

HUBLOT CEO
”Hublot have been such great partners of ours for such a long time now – and I’m so pleased to be working with Ricardo and his team again. Putting Imposter together with Soulsavers has been a deep and soulful experience and I’m proud that we’ve made such a special record. I’m excited to be able to perform and present this special album live, starting here in London in December. And with special thanks to Hublot for the continued support and partnership.” Dave Gahan
”

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OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE
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ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Lady Date-just the audacity of excellence

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Lady Date-just the audacity of excellence

“A classic designed for a lady”. So might some describe the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. Maybe they’re right. If “classic” means perpetuating tradition with a blend of elegance and precision, grace and resistance, beauty and technical performance. If being “a lady” means constantly pursuing a higher standard with unyielding determination. Then indeed the Lady-Datejust is a classic designed for a lady.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

1957. THE BIRTH OF AN ICON.
Audrey Hepburn was captivating Hollywood, Sylvia Earle obtained her Master of Science, Françoise Sagan was shaking up the literary landscape, Pat Smythe reigned supreme in equestrian sport, and fashion designer Adèle Simpson had New-York clamouring for her latest creations. Women were changing.

No less ladylike than their mothers, they were enjoying new, active lifestyles. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, understood this: the modern woman wanted to manage her time to control her destiny. She needed as much precision as men. And so was born, in 1957, Rolex’s classic women’s watch: the Lady-Datejust. A watch of smaller proportions built on unwavering standards of excellence. A watch for women that was every bit as reliable as a man’s. With this innovation, the brand had broken new technical ground in terms of the case size, while also obtaining COSC chronometric certification for this small model.

The Lady-Datejust was inspired by audacity. It addressed not only a technical challenge but a cultural one, too: this watch would serve to further women’s independence. An uncompromising creation, combining elegance and accuracy on the wrist of a modern, graceful and accomplished woman. A symbol of assertiveness expressed in exquisitely feminine form.

Incorporating several decades of watchmaking innovations, the Lady-Datejust has established itself as the ultimate classic women’s watch: a piece of technical prowess
made for women who believe in themselves.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

AN AUTHENTICALLY MODERN CLASSIC

Adopted by women whose steadfast determination has led them to remarkable achievements, the Lady-Datejust graces the wrist of the marine biologist Sylvia Earle, the golf champion Annika Sörenstam, and the singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa. As pioneers in each of their fields, they portray a new image of femininity: engaged, modern and in permanent pursuit of excellence.

Inspired by their legacy, the next generation is bringing renewed vigour to disciplines across the spectrum. Whether it be the prodigious pianist Yuja Wang, the tennis champion Garbiñe Muguruza, the biologist Emma Camp working to protect coral reefs, or the sitar virtuoso Anoushka Shankar, these women are the new faces of
contemporary femininity.

FEATURES OF THE LADY-DATEJUST
• Classic timeless elegance
• Instantaneous date with Cyclops lens
• Many variants (large selection of dials, bezels and bracelets)
• Superlative Chronometer certification, specific to Rolex
• International five-year guarantee
• Self-winding mechanical movement, COSC certified
• Power reserve of 55 hours
• Syloxi hairspring in silicon
• High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
• 28 mm Oyster case, waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet)

WATCHMAKING KNOW-HOW AND TECHNOLOGY CONCENTRATED IN A SMALL WATCH 28 MM OYSTER CASE A SMALL CASE FOR A GREAT WATCHMAKING ACHIEVEMENT

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

The Lady-Datejust’s Oyster case, 28 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and elegance. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy, or from 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of
the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Lady-Datejust’s movement.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 2236 A MOVEMENT AT THE FOREFRONT OF WATCHMAKING TECHNOLOGY

The Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. The oscillator of calibre 2236 has a balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed and patented by Rolex.

Calibre 2236 is fitted with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

The movement of the Lady-Datejust will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising
quality standards.

SYLOXI HAIRSPRING AN EXCLUSIVE HAIRSPRING FOR OPTIMUM STABILITY

Calibre 2236 incorporates a Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which is patented and manufactured by Rolex. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Syloxi hairspring provides great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

The Syloxi hairspring found in calibre 2236 has a geometry that guarantees the regularity of the movement in any position. It also includes a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus
escape wheel.

A SINGULAR WATCH IN EVERY WAY

The quintessentially classic watch, known for its timeless and inimitable style, the Lady-Datejust has, over time, unveiled a variety of bezels and dials that reflect as much the personality of its wearer as the model’s ability to renew its own elegance in fine detail. It beckons its owner to shape its own future.

DIALS, BEZELS AND CASES

Multiple dial variations are possible on the Lady-Datejust. They are available in a wealth of materials, colours, motifs and markers – indices, Roman or Arab numerals – with numerous gem-setting options for the hour markers or the dial itself. Among the iconic champagne-colour, silver, white, pink and diamond-set dials, the dial in mother-of-pearl
stands out for its singularity. Domed, fluted or gem-set, the bezel of the Lady-Datejust is available in three different designs, each conferring its own distinctive aesthetic.

MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL NATURAL ELEGANCE

Mother-of-pearl is by its nature full of mystery and surprises. Depending on its origin, it can be pink, white, black or yellow. It differs in colour, intensity and structure according to the part of the shell from which it is extracted. At Rolex, mother-of-pearl is never artificially coloured. Instead, particular know-how and skill are devoted to simply highlighting its natural beauty and preserving the original hues. As all mother-of-pearl dials are unique pieces, an identical dial will never be found on another wrist.

GOLD AND OYSTERSTEEL

The Lady-Datejust is available in several metal alloys: Oystersteel, 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, and in a Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow, white or
Everose gold).

GOLDS BY ROLEX

Whether yellow, white or Everose, the 18 ct gold of the Lady-Datejust shines with a special radiance. Rolex has its own foundry and develops its gold alloys from the purest
raw materials. From casting to the shaping and polishing of the gold, everything is carried out in the Rolex workshops with meticulous care to ensure impeccable quality. Everose gold, an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy developed and patented by Rolex, owes its unique hue to its exclusive composition.

THE GEM-SET LADY-DATEJUST

In 2021, Rolex introduced a new sparkling version of its Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. This entirely gem-set version in 18 ct yellow gold is draped in glittering diamonds. The case is entirely set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, while the bezel features 44 brilliant-cut diamonds. This new Lady-Datejust is fitted on a President bracelet set with 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial is paved with 291 brilliant-cut diamonds.

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HUBLOT LOVES ASPEN SNOWMASS

HUBLOT LOVES ASPEN SNOWMASS

Hublot takes on the (Black) Diamond and pays tribute to 75 years of Aspen Snowmass with the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition

Aspen Snowmass is an enigma. A destination steeped in history and community, it also moves with speed and draws visitors the world over. It is hard to make time stand still in America’s most iconic and adventurous mountain town, but that’s exactly what Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot and Aspen Snowmass have achieved today.

In honor of the 75th Anniversary of Aspen Snowmass, Hublot: The Official Resort Partner and Official Timekeeper of Aspen Snowmass, has kicked off the resort’s auspicious 75th anniversary (taking place in January 2022) ahead of time, by launching a limited-edition commemorative timepiece to celebrate the Diamond Anniversary (that is fondly termed “The Black Diamond Anniversary” in acknowledgement of the mountain’s famed downhill terrain).

Aspen Snowmass – home to four mountains, two towns and one unforgettable experience at the confluence of nature, culture, and recreation – and Hublot – renowned for The Art of Fusion, have combined forces to design a piece that speaks to the DNA of both the mountain and the Swiss luxury Maison.

Designed in artful collaboration, the alpine-white skeletonized timepiece takes on the iconic Hublot Classic Fusion model. This limited edition of 30 pieces made of black ceramic with a white ceramic bezel features the Aspen tree leaf on the second hand and high shine brilliant titanium, a homage to the silver mining heritage of the Rockies and Aspen township. The limitation is stamped on the back of the timepiece along with the 75-year commemorative logo: the piece is a true collector’s item for 30 lucky few.

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