Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

La Grande Maison celebrates an icon, the Reverso, by releasing the most complicated timepiece ever presented in this emblematic collection. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir-faire at Jaeger-LeCoultre with innovative new astronomical indications.

It is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces. By incorporating three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the iconic Reverso cradle (the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle), the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque can predict the next global incidence of astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses — the world’s first wristwatch to provide such a deep reading of the cosmos.

Key Points of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

  • The world’s first watch with four faces; the most complicated Reverso timepiece ever made
  • A total of 11 complications, including perpetual calendar, minute repeater, indications of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles (never before presented together in a wristwatch), requiring 12 patents
  • Combines Jaeger-LeCoultre’s uncontested mastery of chiming watches, precision mechanisms, astronomical complications and ultra-compact watchmaking
  • User-friendly design and construction; the most complicated Reverso is also one of the easiest to wear

Geneva, April 7th, 2021 — With 188 years of relentless innovation and savoir-faire behind it, Jaeger-LeCoultre continually sets new boundaries in the domain of fine mechanical watchmaking. Its Hybris Mechanica series of ground-breaking, ultra-complicated timepieces has established a constellation of stars shining with unparalleled brilliance in the horological heavens. In 2021, the latest addition to this celestial assemblage is a grand oeuvre six years in the making — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, the first watch in the world with four faces of timekeeping indications.

Since the advent of personal timepieces, the quest to build increasingly complicated watches is constrained by the volume of space available to the watchmaker. Having a multitude of complications in a watch is pointless unless they can be legibly and comprehensibly displayed, and the watch can be reasonably worn. Liberated by the unique design of the iconic Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a world’s first: a double-faced case continuously driven by the in-house Calibre 185, and a double-faced cradle with indications synced and updated by the primary movement every day at the stroke of midnight by an ingenious mechanical system proprietary to Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If executed through conventional mechanical means, the 11 complications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque would result in a timepiece far more suited for a desk than a wrist. Thanks to nearly two centuries of expertise and a thoroughly modern approach to innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre tells the story of cosmic and terrestrial time within the confines of a 51mm by 31mm by 15mm case, a story told in four chapters of horological virtuosity.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER ONE: SET THE UNIVERSE

The history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is rooted in the pursuit and attainment of precision. One of the earliest inventions of founder Antoine LeCoultre was the millionometer, the first instrument able to measure the micron. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is an undisputed pioneer and leader in creating exceptional executions of the tourbillon, a mechanism designed to enhance the chronometric performance of a timepiece. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 2 (2008) stunned audiences and won chronometry awards with its multi-axial revolving balance, and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) remains unique in its use of a tourbillon with a high-precision ellipse isometer escapement.

Naturally, the tourbillon is one of the main protagonists of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque). Occupying the 7 o’clock position on the recto face of the case, a flying tourbillon (thus called because the absence of an upper bridge allows it to appear as if it is floating) makes one rotation a minute, continuously varying the position of the balance in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

The balance is the heart of any watch movement, and it is also the key to our measurement of time. As it beats in regular cadences of 4Hz (28,800vph), every eight beats mark the passing of one second. The seconds accumulate into minutes, into hours, days, weeks, months and years. The recto face of the Quadriptyque case, illustrating the uppermost abilities of mechanical horology, shows the indications of a perpetual calendar, a centuries-old mechanism that always displays the correct date despite the irregular number of days each month. It also takes leap years into account, displaying a 29th day in the month of February every four years. Highlighting the precision of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185 construction, the perpetual calendar indications are instantaneous, changing at the stroke of midnight. In addition, the complexities of the Calibre 185 construction required the date to be displayed at the 5 o’clock position on the dial. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, only the perfect legibility of a grande date was considered acceptable for a watch of such prestige, which necessitated the creation of a new system of date display discs in order to accommodate the dimensions of the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. The opening chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) is nothing less than a powerful statement of how la Grande Maison has comprehensively mastered the expression of civil time.

CHAPTER TWO: CHIME THE HEAVENS

There are extremely few watchmaking manufactures that possess in-house expertise in sonnerie wristwatches. There are even fewer that have been making them since 1870, accumulating one and a half centuries of experience and savoir-faire. There exists only one watchmaking manufacture that has over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory — La Grande Maison du Sentier. The verso face of the Quadriptyque case is a virtuoso tour de force of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patrimony as a master and innovator of chiming watches.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

With the slide of a lever located just above the crown, the Quadriptyque unleashes its melody. First, a series of low notes, correlating to the number of hours. Second, an alternating couplet of high and low notes, corresponding to the quarter-hours. And concluding the melody, a succession of high notes, indicating the number of minutes to be added to the elapsed quarters. In concert, the hours-quarters-minutes chime plays the current time in musical code. The striking works of the Reverso Quadriptyque are completely exposed alongside a secondary time display, indicating the same time as the recto dial, but in a jumping-hours and peripheral-minutes format. As the Quadriptyque strikes the time, setting a symphony of springs, cams, hammers and gongs into motion, their acoustic report confirms the visual display of the secondary dial.

Visible through apertures on the movement plate hand-decorated with the guillochage motif known as clous de Paris are elements of the chiming mechanism uniquely associated with the sonnerie expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre. These include the silent chime governor, patented by the manufacture in 1895 to eliminate the buzzing noise created by the older anchor system. More recent in-house innovations showcased in the Quadriptyque are the crystal gongs (first seen in the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre of 2005) that attach the repeater gongs directly to the sapphire crystal to exploit the material’s optimal acoustic properties, the square cross-sectional profile of the gongs themselves that maximise contact and energy transmission between the hammers and gongs (a mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repeating watches since 2006), and the articulated trebuchet hammers (developed for the 2009 Hybris Mechanica Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie) that deliver a clean and strong strike to the gongs. In totality, these innovations allow Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters to produce some of the loudest and clearest chiming wristwatches today.

Debuting in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is a completely novel engineering of the chiming components to create a seamless chime with no pauses in between the hours, quarters and minutes. The conventional minute repeater mechanism utilises special pivoting racks that read the time off a series of cams and then proceed to activate each group of chimed notes in turn. This often results in silent gaps between the groups of chimed notes, especially when there are only hours and minutes to be struck, with no intervening quarters. The Hybris Mechanica Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019) made exceptional strides in chiming know-how by reducing these silent gaps, but the Reverso Quadriptyque has reached the ultimate stage of expertise in this area. By refining and inverting specific steps in this mechanical sequence, the Quadriptyque has succeeded in eliminating these gaps entirely.

The chime of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is an uninterrupted opus of acoustic excellence. It is the sound of innovation at its very apex.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER THREE: UNCOVER THE ORBIT

Before the formal development of time reckoning systems, primitive societies observed celestial phenomena and created powerful myths and stories around the dance of the heavenly orbs above. The earliest astronomers were also mathematicians, and instruments constructed on their formulations were able to mechanically compute the positions of various celestial objects. The interaction between the various orbits of the Sun, Earth and Moon determine the rhythms of life, and watchmaking first evolved as a means to bring order to the world around us. As a watch manufacture with close to two centuries of fine watchmaking expertise, Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered all aspects of time expression, from the quotidian to the esoteric. One of the hallmark complications of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the display of sidereal time, time that is determined with reference to the stars instead of the Sun, first presented in the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication (2010).

This year, for the first time ever in the history of mechanical horology, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites three displays of lunar information — the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle — in a single wristwatch. This unique micromechanical combination of indications, located on the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, allows the determination of eclipse events (both solar and lunar) and rare lunar phenomena such as supermoons.

Occupying the top half of the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Quadriptyque is a massive representation of the phases of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere. A laser-engraved moon is progressively covered and revealed by a mobile blue lacquer disc with gold glitter décor, corresponding to the age of the moon in the synodic cycle. While conventional displays of the moon phase accumulate one day of error after 32.5 months, the moon phase display of the Quadriptyque requires only one adjustment after 1,111 years.

Just below the moon phase display, on the left, is a counter with a three-dimensional micro-sculpted pink-gold sun orbited by a tiny hemispherical moon. This counter shows the draconic cycle, showing when the path of the Moon intersects with the orbit of the Earth around the Sun (known as the ecliptic). Such an intersection takes place twice in each cycle, indicated by the horizontal alignment on the counter of the moon and the sun. At this time, the Moon, Earth and Sun are all on the same plane; however, they may not be aligned. For them to be aligned, a phenomenon known as syzygy, an additional condition must be fulfilled — the Moon must be either in its new or full phase. When that happens, an eclipse event happens on Earth, either a lunar eclipse if the Moon is in its full phase, or a solar eclipse if the Moon is in its new phase. However, the actual visibility of the eclipse is dependent on various factors such as the geographical position of the viewer.

To the right of the draconic cycle counter is a domed representation of the Earth, micro-painted in enamel, with a hemispherical moon in eccentric orbit around it. This counter represents the anomalistic cycle, showing the varying distance between the Earth and Moon. At its apogee, the Moon is at its furthest distance from the Earth and is closest at its perigee. When the Moon is in its full phase near or at the perigee, an event known as a supermoon occurs, in which the Moon can appear to be up to 14 percent larger than usual in the sky.

The display of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycle together in a wristwatch is unprecedented in horology, with the latter two indications protected by patent, making the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 the only watch ever made to provide such depth of information about astronomical phenomena.

The Hybris Mechanica family of timepieces at Jaeger-LeCoultre began with the 2003 Atmos Mystérieuse and has since grown to encompass close to 20 groundbreaking horological creations, including the Master Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1 (2004), the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque (2006), the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019). The word Hybris originates from the Greek “hubris” that refers to the soaring ambition exhibited by the legendary heroes of antiquity. It is a promise made by Jaeger-LeCoultre to continually expand the horizons of watchmaking; a promise that has been dutifully kept for 18 years.

CHAPTER FOUR: REVERSE THE UNIVERSE

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born in 1931, out of the need to protect delicate horological mechanisms amidst the balletic skirmish of hooves and mallets during games of polo. Today, 90 years later, a far older dance is reflected in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque, one that guides our calendrical rhythms according to rules that are as precise and structured as those of the regal equestrian sport.

The original Reverso bore a single time-telling face, with a mobile case that could be turned over within its cradle, revealing a solid caseback. The next generation of the Reverso featured another dial on its caseback, either in a different design to accommodate the wearer’s aesthetic preference (Duetto) or displaying a second time zone (Duoface) to offer additional functionality when travelling. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) represented an evolutionary leap in horological innovation, with a third display positioned on the interior face of the Reverso cradle.

This year, the world’s first wristwatch with four faces premieres in the form of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque), the ultimate expression of the Reverso concept. On the last face of the Quadriptyque, the exterior face of the cradle, a representation of the phases of the Moon in the Southern Hemisphere is shown. Most indications of the moon phase are of the Northern Hemisphere perspective, and the Quadriptyque’s display of the Southern Hemisphere moon phase on its fourth face is the fulfilment of the Reverso’s fundamental dualism. A star-flecked sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient of blue shades forms the backdrop to the pink-gold moon, all of which are created in the Atelier des Métiers Rares® of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The secret to the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque’s four functioning display faces lies in a solution first used in the 2006 Reverso Hybris Mechanca Grande Complication à Triptyque. Every day at midnight, a pin extends out of the main case movement to activate a mechanical corrector in the cradle, which then advances the cradle displays. The mechanism driving the cradle displays is set directly into the cradle itself, without any additional movement plates that would increase the thickness of the watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in ultra-compact watchmaking makes the Quadriptyque, despite its multiple indications and complications, one of the most wearable high-complication watches of our time.

PRESENTING INFINITY

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 comes in an exceptional presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the wearer to quickly and intuitively set all the calendar and astronomical displays of the watch after a period of being unworn.

A two-position crown on the side of the box is used to first set the number of days that have elapsed since the watch was last worn. With the Quadriptyque set within the correction support frame, the box corrector crown can then be extended to its second position and wound to rapidly bring the watch to the current date for all calendar and astronomical indications. There is no risk of overcorrecting the watch or damaging the movement, since the entire process is controlled by the box corrector mechanism.

The latest timepiece in the Hybris Mechanica series took six years of research and development. It was made possible only through the 188 years of innovation and expertise accrued within the workshops of La Grande Maison. With the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, Jaeger-LeCoultre reasserts its position at the apogee of mechanical watchmaking and reaffirms its dedication to expanding the boundaries of horological knowledge.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

Case material: White gold

Case dimensions: 51.2 x 31 mm

Thickness: 15.15 mm

Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185

Functions:

Face 1: Hour – Minute, Tourbillon (indicating the Second), Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Grande Date, Day, Month, Leap Year, Night & Day

Face 2: Jumping Digital Hour, Minute, Minute Repeater (with system avoiding dead time)

Face 3: Northern Hemisphere Moon Phase, Draconic Lunar Cycle (height of the moon), Anomalistic Lunar Cycle (apogee and perigee), Month, Year

Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase

Power reserve: 50 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Strap: Blue alligator

Reference: Q7103420

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Geneva, April 6, 2021  Close to 500 press conferences, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six expert-led panels… and a wealth of exceptional creations revealed by the 38 prestigious participating Maisons: Watches and Wonders 2021 opens tomorrow a for a particularly intense edition that will put watchmaking in the spotlight for over ten days. Online and
offline, from Geneva to Shanghai, follow this unmissable event live from anywhere in the world. Connect from tomorrow 7:00 CET to the
watchesandwonders.com digital platform.

Only hours to go before the curtain comes up on Watches and Wonders with a 2021 edition in two parts, starting with a digital format in Geneva, then over to Shanghai for an in-person Salon. For more than ten days, the eyes of the world will be on the creativity and expertise of the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Getting this horological marathon under way, Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be particularly intense with 38 participating brands – double last year – 500 press conferences, 400 presentations to retailers, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six panel discussions, also live each day, one-toone appointments, virtual tours and more. All part of the exciting program for the 23,000 visitors – media, retailers and end customers – who have been invited to Watches and Wonders Geneva by the brands for a fully digital Salon
experience.

Watchmaking puts on a “Morning Show” Going out live every morning from April 8 to 13 at 8:00 CET, the 2021 edition launches with the first “Morning Show” at 7:00 CET on April 7th. Presented by Belle Donati, a primetime news anchor for major European networks, this is where industry experts and other prestigious guests will be giving their informed insight. Analyses, summaries, product presentations, trend focuses, CEO interviews, expert views, panel discussions, highlights of the day and everything you need to know about watchmaking will be shared, live, each morning… not forgetting the “Minute LAB”, spotlight on the latest technology and innovations from the participating brands. No stone will be left unturned during these seven 40-minute shows, presented in English and simultaneously translated into simplified Chinese. The public will be able to watch the “Morning Show” live on the watchesandwonders.com platform or
catch up on the Watches and Wonders YouTube channel and social media.

Another highlight of the event will be the 42 launches and other “breaking news” from the 38 participating brands. Expect some major announcements, new watch presentations and exclusive product reveals, all on the new watchesandwonders.com platform.

A platform for debate and discussion And there is more: watchesandwonders.com is also a place for ideas and debate. Every day, from April 8 to 13 at 12:15 CET, influencers, brand leaders
and watchmaking experts will discuss the perspectives and challenges that lie ahead for the industry.: How can watchmaking contribute to overcome
resources scarcity and generate a positive impact? What will be the lasting consequences of the global pandemic? What role should technology and new
materials play? What impact can blockchain have on watchmaking? All these subjects will be covered in six 40-minute discussions, streamed live on the
platform, then available on replay for the public.

A gathering of the leading players in watchmaking worldwide, Watches and Wonders is set to become the standout event for 2021. Join watch enthusiasts around the world on watchesandwonders.com from 7:00 CET tomorrow and be part of this digital experience, before moving on to China, starting April 14!

BRANDS ON THE WATCHESANDWONDERS.COM DIGITAL PLATFORM
PARTICIPATING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BVLGARI | CARL F. BUCHERER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CORUM | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GREUBEL FORSEY | H. MOSER & CIE. | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS MOINET | LOUIS VUITTON | MAURICE LACROIX | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | ORIS | PANERAI | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | PURNELL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS |ROLEX | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | ZENITH

BRANDS EXHIBITING AT WATCHES AND WONDERS SHANGHAI EXHIBITING BRANDS | CARTIER | ROLEX | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | PIAGET | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | CHOPARD | PANERAI | ULYSSE NARDIN | ROGER DUBUIS | MONTBLANC | TUDOR | BAUME & MERCIER | H. MOSER & CIE. | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | PURNELL

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

The Tourbillon with HUBLOT’S signature codes Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5 day power reserve carbon white

“The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon White… different, yet resolutely Hublot. It combines the distinctive codes of our brand: 6 H-shaped titanium screws, “sandwich” case construction, the Art of Fusion with carbon fibre and composite inclusions, an HUB6020 skeleton tourbillon manufacture movement custom-designed for its tonneau case, a jewel of innovation and expertise showcasing the aesthetic approach to movement design central to the Hublot philosophy, and, lastly, strap interchangeability thanks to its patented One Click system.

In the seven years since its launch in 2014, the singular and distinctive Spirit of Big Bang has been cultivating its differences whilst incorporating the signature Hublot codes – 6 H-shaped titanium screws, a “sandwich” case construction, and a demonstration of the Art of Fusion.

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

With the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power Reserve Carbon White, Hublot combines black with white, proving opposites attract. The 42-mm case, case back and bezel are crafted from carbon fibre featuring white composite inclusions. These white inclusions are formed of glass microfibres created as a non-woven fabric (NWF), used mainly to improve the breaking strength of composites: This NWF is then co-impregnated with the carbon fibres using tinted epoxy resin when the composite preforms are created in a special mould.

Released in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power Reserve Carbon White plays with contrasts and transparency with a sapphire case back and dial which reveal the ultra-aesthetic architecture of the HUB6020 manufacture movement. A skeleton tourbillon specially designed to sit within the tonneau case of the Spirit of Big Bang. A power reserve of 115 hours, hand-wound, with a 5-day indicator set at 8 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon cage completes one rotation per minute. Off-centre hours and minutes can be read at 3 o’clock.
Paired with a white lined rubber strap, the Spirit of Big Bang White embraces interchangeability thanks to its patented “One-Click” system.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Throughout life, we often feel an unwavering desire to uncover hidden treasures. Cuervo y Sobrinos is proud to unveil a new iteration of the Historiador Squelette that reveals the intricate mechanisms at work beneath the dial.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

The Historiador collection, originally created in 1946, has been relaunched  in 2009 to pay tribute to the prestigious past of the brand and revive a once forgotten beauty. This classical collection features near replicas of old historical models with a modern twist. With its radically assertive codes, the Historiador range best interprets the essential values of the brand with Latin roots, namely classical, timeless elegance and refinement.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

The Historiador Squelette brings the timeless aesthetic appeal of skeleton watches to the Historiador collection. This model partially displays various movement parts to satisfy the wearer’s curiosity about the automatic mechanisms tirelessly working beneath the dial. To this day, the design of this openworked model continues to attract admiring glances with its allure undiminished, despite changing fashions.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

This new design of the Historiador Squelette combines retro-artistic patterns, reminiscent of the stained glass windows commonly found in Havana, with black movement parts that represent the embrace of modernity as well as the Swiss craftsmanship. This harmonious fusion of Latino exoticism and Swiss heritage is at the core of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand. Complementing this new design is a pattern of 26 purple jewels that draw attention and invite both the wearer and onlookers to examine and marvel at the technical prowess of the movement.

The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands return with their luminescent treatment that retains readability in dim light. The slender, red central sweep seconds hand contrasts with the openworked dial beneath to remain easily visible. The CyS logo, a symbol of quality since 1882, is applied to the periphery of the dial.

Endowed with a gleaming 40mm stainless steel case, the Historiador Squelette is a prime example of elegant, timeless design. The graceful arcing sides of the case are juxtaposed with the elongated, angular lines of the lugs. The double-curved sapphire crystal features anti-reflective coating and is water resistant to 3 ATM. While each facet of the case exhibits a distinct shape, the two pair beautifully.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

The brand never neglects any small detail. The strap of the Squelette is made by an innovative black nubuck Louisiana alligator with red alcantara interior. The model is also available with a resplendent stainless steel bracelet.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Technical Features:

Collection Historiador
Model Name Squelette
References 3191.1NSQS (leather strap)

3191B.1NSQS (metal strap)

Movement CYS 5101, base STP 6-15,

11 ½ ”’

automatic

diameter 25,6 mm

height 4,6 mm

power reserve 44 hours

26 jewels

frequency 28800 A/h

finished oscillating weight, black NAC coloured, with applied logo

Functions hours, minutes, centre seconds
Case stainless steel

diameter 40 mm

height 11.15 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 3 ATM

screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal

Dial finely perforated squelette dial, applied Cys emblem
Hands hours and minutes with Superluminova, red centre second
Strap leather strap: black nubuck Louisiana alligator with red alcantara interior

 

metal strap: stainless steel bracelet

Buckle stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited edition not applicable
Packaging PE100

GREUBELFORSEY

Titanium and blue a new chapter for the gmt quadruple tourbillon

The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon had only one chapter. Today, Greubel Forsey writes the second and reveals an 11 piece edition of this groundbreaking timepiece in Titanium.

With new materials, new colours and new finishes, this revolutionary and modern limited edition launches the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon towards unexplored horizons and resolutely marks the dawn of a new chapter.

A HOROLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH

The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is radical in all its aspects. First of all, by its construction. The Quadruple Tourbillon is Greubel Forsey’s second Fundamental Invention, The mission: to average
out positional errors due to gravity in all situations, especially in stable wristwatch positions. To achieve this, the original tourbillon has been elevated to realise its full potential: inclined at 30°, doubled and then quadrupled. The result, two synchronised Double Tourbillon 30° mechanisms, where a first cage, inclined at 30° and rotating in one minute, is nested within a second horizontal cage, completing a full rotation in four minutes. A spherical differential transmits the average timing rate of the four tourbillon cages, improving the overall chronometric performance of all the regulating organs.

A TOTALLY NEW EXPERIENCE ON THE WRIST

The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is radical by design. With this exclusive limited edition in titanium with striking blue accents, Greubel Forsey offers an unexpected alternative to the precious metals that High-end watchmaking traditionally favours. Titanium has numerous qualities: it is both stronger and lighter than steel, while also being extremely resistant to corrosion and magnetic fields.

With a reduction of over a third of its weight, the new titanium case offers a brand new, modern and dynamic feel on the wrist, which has inspired the choice of the new rubber strap, in order to assert this new contemporary identity.

HAND FINISHING PAR EXCELLENCE

The toughness of titanium, which defines the 46.5mm case of the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon, presents a significant machining and hand finishing challenge for the components made from it, such as the GMT pusher or the folding clasp or the crown. In addition, new hand finishing details have been specially created for this timepiece.

The circular-grained hour ring with polished bevels and 72-hour chronometric power reserve indication appear for the first time in a brilliant blue. The mainplate is now frosted and spotted
with polished bevelling, countersinks and straight-grained flanks, executed in a grey finish.

BETWEEN EARTH AND SEA

Planet Earth, set near eight o’clock, shines in a new light with the blue livery. An original Greubel Forsey creation from ten years ago (2011), the rotating terrestrial globe allows for the simultaneous display of several different time zones: on the dial side, with a 24-hour ring around the Earth, for Day/Night indication and on the caseback side, displaying 24 major cities their
respective time zones while distinguishing between those which use summer time (on a light coloured backdrop), and those which donot (on a dark backdrop).

The sapphire crystal window around the equator completes the timepiece, offering a complete view of the Earth in motion, with its continents immersed in the deep blue ocean waters, complementing the exquisite blue finish of the power reserve, hour circle and strap.

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Swiss Haute Horlogerie meets Chinese zodiac tradition

Steeped in the aesthetic codes of Chinese culture, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is the first L.U.C timepiece to display the traditional Chinese timekeeping system, Shí Chen. The animals of the zodiac that symbolises them parade slowly by on an Urushi lacquer disc, accompanied by the symbol of prosperity and its god Lu Xing. This creative new complication exists as an 88-piece limited edition. Its L.U.C 96.29-L Chopard Manufacture movement is housed in a 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case of peerless symbolic and physical finesse.

Carved from a block of ethical 18-carat rose gold, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is a talisman timepiece, an allegory of beliefs related to the Chinese zodiac and luck. It represents the first time that an Haute Horlogerie watch displays Shí Chen, the traditional Chinese time system, as a complication. It consists of twelve two-hour units, each one represented by an animal from the zodiac cycle. The day thus begins at 11pm with the hour of the Rat and ends with the hour of the Pig, while noon is in the middle of the hour of the Horse.

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

The Chinese zodiac bestiary enhanced by the art of Urushi

The procession of 12 animals slowly parades through a large aperture at 12 o’clock, enabling a dual time read-off: one traditional and the other based on the international system. This succession of zodiac signs also underlines the creativity and mastery of the Chopard Manufacture artisans. In addition, the dial and Shí Chen disc of this timepiece are made of Japanese lacquer. Faithful to Asian traditions, Chopard has worked right from the start with the finest Japanese lacquer artisans, who craft dials using the traditional Urushi lacquer technique.

The 88 dials of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen are produced by the workshops of the century-old Yamada Heiando company and crafted by Master lacquer specialist Minori Koizumi. In accordance with the distinctive Maki-e technique, gold flakes sprinkled between the layers of lacquer illuminate the 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case from within.

A creation placed under the protection of the god of prosperity

At the centre of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen dial is the golden, embossed emblem of the god Lu Ying, who is one of the three deities – together with Fu Xing and Shou Xing – respectively dedicated to prosperity, happiness and longevity, symbolically summing up the characteristics of a full life. This star of prosperity also refers to fame and influence and is an omnipresent sign in Chinese culture, where auspices, symbols and representations playing on the nature of ideograms are essential.

 

A timepiece endowed with great technical refinement

To equip the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, Chopard has created the L.U.C 96.29-L calibre, an exclusive variation of the 96 family, featuring a disc that completes a full rotation in 24 hours. This mechanical movement with automatic winding is just 3.97 mm thick thanks to its micro-rotor, a small oscillating weight neatly integrated into the calibre. Made of ethical 22-carat gold, it boasts high inertia enabling it to wind the two barrels efficiently. The latter are stacked in accordance with Chopard Twin Technology and are capable of storing the energy necessary for the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen to offer a total 65-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist, it will remain on time and accurate for more than two and a half days, the duration of a long weekend.

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

Chopard’s in-house approach to Haute Horlogerie

Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The manufacturing stages of L.U.C. timepieces are carried out in-house at its production sites in Geneva and Fleurier.

Movement development, finished product design, gold casting, stamping and cases machining, movement parts and bracelets, as well as traditional handcrafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and involved in the making of each creation in the L.U.C collection.

The result of meticulous craftsmanship, Chopard’s exceptional L.U.C timepieces meet the aspirations of today’s gentleman, speaking to him without the slightest artifice or pretention, and unequivocally conveying an ideal blend of artisanal skill and emotions.

 

Technical details

L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

88-piece limited edition in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Case:

Ethical 18-carat rose gold

Total diameter:                                                                                40,00 mm

Thickness:                                                                                        8.28 mm

Water resistance                                                                            30 metres

18-carat ethical rose gold crown with L.U.C logo                     5.00 mm

Vertical satin-brushed sides and inter-horn space

Polished bezel and case-back

Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Exhibition case-back

Movement:

Mechanical with automatic winding                                            L.U.C 96.29-L

Winding via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold

Total diameter:                                                                                34.20 mm

Thickness:                                                                                       3,97 mm

Number of jewels:                                                                           29

Frequency:                                                                                      28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:                                                                                65 hours

Disc rotating in 24 hours, representing the 12 signs of the Chinese Zodiac

Twin stacked barrels, based on Chopard Twin Technology

Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Dial and hands:

Dial hand-crafted in Japan using the Urushi lacquer technique with shimmering decoration for the main dial and the twelve signs of the Zodiac on the lower rotating disc

Central symbol of prosperity motif in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Indexes and Arabic numerals in ethical 18-carat rose gold

Functions and displays:

Central display of the hours and minutes

Bracelet and buckle:

Black hand-sewn alligator strap with brown alligator leather lining

Polished and satin-brushed ethical 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161980-5001 – in ethical 18-carat rose gold with special Spirit of Shí Chen dial

88-piece limited edition

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER RECEIVES PRESTIGIOUS GPHG INNOVATION PRIZE

FOR THE FIRST HIJRI PERPETUAL CALENDAR WRISTWATCH

“The calendar is an eminently fascinating watchmaking complication, as it really is the mirror of civilizations.” Michel Parmigiani

Earlier today, Parmigiani Fleurier was proud to receive the prestigious Innovation Prize from the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève for its creation of the first Hijri perpetual calendar wristwatch. The prize is awarded by the Jury on a discretionary basis to reward the best competing watch offering an innovative and unique vision of time measurement, and for opening up new pathways for the art of watchmaking.

The Hijri Perpetual Calendar features a 44.5 mm platinum case, a slate dial and rotor in platinum. It shows the hours and minutes, and date in Arabic numerals, the name and length of the months in Arabic calligraphy, as well as the abundant and the common years. It also features a moon phase in an aventurine sky and a power reserve of up to 48 hours. As seen in all Parmigiani Fleurier timepieces, every single component of the movement, even the hidden parts, are decorated by in-house specialists.

Parmigiani Fleurier is often inspired by its work in restoration and is firmly rooted in the history and tradition of watchmaking. The original development of this stunning timepiece dates back to 1993, when Michel Parmigiani restored a simple Hijri Calendar and a pocket watch from the end of the 18th or beginning of the 19th Century that featured a solar calendar translated into Arabic. This led Mr. Parmigiani to create the first-ever Hijri Calendar table clock, and today to the first wristwatch featuring this complication. The Hijri Perpetual Calendar has been carefully designed in consideration of the most intricate elements of Arabic architecture, culture, and religion. It is the culmination of centuries worth of technical knowledge, combining both culture and high horology, and beautifully showcasing the high standards in innovation and hand-crafted expertise the Maison is known for.

“We would like to thank all the people who collaborated with us on this incredible project,” said Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. “At Parmigiani Fleurier we stand strong in our belief in solidarity, in the power of community, in being inspired by the work of greats who have come before us, in inspiring future generations, and sharing the gifts of watchmaking with industry colleagues and those around the globe who appreciate the artistry of our work. The international community of watch admirers and devotees is a motley of cultures and traditions; we celebrate this diversity in our own way with the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, and we hope that- as an industry and as citizens of the world-  we will also embrace it in the people we choose to represent and lead us.”

Parmigiani Fleurier sought the expertise of Mr. Stefano Macaluso to redesign each of the bridges of the new PF009 movement. The bridges are inspired by the typical arches of mosques and adopt the shape of growing and shrinking crescent moons. The Rub el Hizb, an Islamic symbol represented by two overlapping squares which in Arabic calligraphy marks the end of a chapter, is often used in the holy book of Quran and is also represented in this design to honor the cultural richness of the Arab world through modern watchmaking.

“The decoration inspiration for the Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar was drawn from the architecture of the Arab world, highlighting all of its aesthetic codes, each more beautiful than the next, while keeping in mind an evocative and quickly understandable visual vocabulary,” said Stefano Macaluso.

 

Picture: The Naked Watchmaker  

In the Muslim world, the calendar is based on the cycles of the moon. The Hijri or Islamic lunar calendar consists of twelve months of 29 or 30 days – depending on the moon phase- and is used to pinpoint the days for Islamic holidays. In contrast to the solar calendar, which is used in the west, the months of the lunar calendar change annually by a difference of -10 to -12 days. As a result, each month always falls on a different season and therefore varies from the Gregorian Calendar.

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

Taking its name from its founder, watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani, the fine watchmaking brand was founded in 1996 in Fleurier, in the Swiss valley of Val-de-Travers. With its own watchmaking centre ensuring its independence, the brand has both full control over the production process and unique creative freedom. For over twenty years, the Parmigiani Fleurier signature has resided within timepieces that command the utmost respect, in harmony with watchmaking traditions. They are the labour of a lifetime – that of Michel Parmigiani, the talented individuals who assist him, and the special relationship between the Manufacture and the masterpieces of the past, enabling it to invent a bold future.

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty.
An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time.

Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silk-like pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The watches come with a full 5-year warranty and are offered in three unique choices:

– A model with an 18K Moonshine™ gold dial featuring an embossed silk pattern and Roman numerals.
– A model with a white dial, featuring embossed Roman numerals in 18K Moonshine™ gold.
– A model with an 18K white gold rhodium-plated dial, fully paved with a snow setting of 768 single-cut diamonds. The markings appear on the front crystal.

As always, each Trésor is defined by the 38 full-cut diamonds that curve along the sides of the case, as well as an additional full-cut diamond set on the crown, which itself is engraved with an OMEGA flower and filled with red liquid ceramic.

Turning the watches over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits just behind polished mirror casebacks that are embellished by a unique metalized pattern.

Jaeger-LeCoultre announces The Sound Maker exhibition in Chengdu, China

JAEGER-LECOULTRE ANNOUNCES THE SOUND MAKER EXHIBITION IN CHENGDU, CHINA
UNVEILING A NEWLY COMMISSIONED WORK BY RENOWNED SWISS ARTIST, ZIMOUN, AND EXPLORING A RICH HERITAGE OF CHIMING WATCHES

THE SOUND MAKER exhibition, a highlight of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s year-long celebration of the art of sound in watchmaking, will be inaugurated at Guangdong Hall, Chengdu, starting from November 10th. The exhibition will immerse visitors in the creative and cultural universe of Jaeger-LeCoultre, exploring the uniquely rich heritage – past, present and future – of chiming watches at La Grande Maison, and paying homage to its home in the Vallée de Joux, where the sounds of nature still provide the backdrop to daily life.

A New Art Commission Makes Its World Debut

At the heart of the exhibition, expanding the dialogue that exists between horology and art, a new ‘sound sculpture’ installation commissioned by Jaeger-LeCoultre from the Swiss contemporary artist, Zimoun, will be unveiled for the first time. After its debut in China, the installation will be exhibited around the world during 2021.
In this new work, Zimoun encapsulates the universe of sound – within the Manufacture and in the natural world around it – that is so intrinsic to the spirit of Jaeger-LeCoultre. He employs simple raw materials and repurposed industrial components, including watch parts – and, in doing so, redefines traditional ideas of sculpture, movement and sound, drawing the audience into an almost transcendent world of sensory experience.


“I first got hooked by the sound, like the soft, appeasing sound of the rain,” says Catherine Rénier, Chief Executive Officer of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “As you get closer, the movement of the metal is mesmerizing. Each angle gives a different feeling and invites you to stop, enjoy and listen.”


In the ability to conjure romance from mundane materials and to create evocative sounds through complex systems of structure and mechanics, there are clear parallels between the work of the artist and the watchmakers of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Just as the components of a watch movement seem to take on a life of their own when assembled, the industrially-produced elements that Zimoun combines into his sculptures seem to develop their own behaviour, producing new and unique sounds and visual effects.
When commissioning the new work, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited the artist to spend time in the Vallée de Joux, where he was able to absorb the valley’s natural sounds, and also spend time with the specialists who work on chiming watches within the Manufacture. The fruit of that rich exchange of culture and ideas, Zimoun’s new installation creates a unique aural signature for Jaeger-LeCoultre, evoking the sounds of nature and of the Manufacture, as well as capturing the rippling of light on the surface of the lake seen from the watchmaking ateliers.
The Story of Sound at Jaeger-LeCoultre


THE SOUND MAKER exhibition leads visitors on a journey through Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rich patrimony, celebrating the twin values of tradition and innovation that have guided it throughout its 187-year history. Featuring rare or unique timepieces curated from both historic and contemporary collections, as well as never-previously exhibited documents and artefacts, it traces the evolution of chiming watches from the Maison’s origins to the new 2020 models, and from the most refined minute repeaters and complex sonneries to the highly practical and much-loved Memovox alarm watch.

The journey begins with a retrospective of the earliest and most historically significant of the LeCoultre chiming masterworks – some of which have never been displayed to the public before; it highlights technical inventions and patents that have contributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s worldwide renown – and to its status as “the watchmakers’ watchmaker” among other great Maisons that it supplied with movements; it reveals the inner secrets of how chiming watches work; and it honours the skill of the artisans who employed their rare crafts to embellish the most precious timepieces.


Paying tribute to La Grande Maison’s home in the Vallée de Joux, the exhibition also features a captivating 8D video installation that immerses visitors in the natural soundscape of the valley and evokes the watchmakers’ deep connections to their peaceful surroundings.
THE SOUND MAKER exhibition will be presented from November 10th until November 22nd, at Guangdong Hall, Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li Chengdu, China.

ABOUT THE SOUND MAKER
In 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates THE SOUND MAKER, paying homage to the sounds of nature that form a backdrop to daily life in the Vallée de Joux, and to its great legacy of chiming timepieces, expressing a century and a half of accumulated expertise in fresh new ways. During the 150 years since the Manufacture developed its first minute repeater in 1870, chiming watches have been a particular forte, with 200 calibres demonstrating its mastery of all forms, from relatively simple alarms to highly complex sonneries and repeaters. In parallel, the Manufacture’s engineers and designers have patented numerous innovations that redefine the benchmark for acoustic quality and beauty.