The Salon has revealed its dates, confirming that it will be opening to the general public with a two-part program.
The next edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva will be held from 9 to 15 April 2024 in Geneva’s Halles de Palexpo. New for next year, the general public will be able to attend the event over a long 3-day weekend, from Saturday to Monday inclusive. Press and trade visitors will have access to the Salon throughout the week.

The 2024 edition intends to build on the success of 2023, further raising Geneva’s profile as an international watchmaking destination. The program will again unfold in two parts – at Palexpo and In the City – with an evening event on Thursday 11 April in the heart of town. The aim is to get the people of Geneva and local players even more involved in this major watchmaking event.

All the brands taking part in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 will be announced at a later date, along with the full program.

4997/200R - CALATRAVA

Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

 

Patek Philippe presents 17 new watch models with innovative technical and aesthetic features, enriching its vast range of collections

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2023, the Geneva-based manufacture is unveiling a wide selection of new models, ranging from a Calatrava with an original 24-hour display and a Travel Time function for the display of a second time zone, to a new haute joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime, and the first Annual Calendar to enter the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection, renowned for its modern casual chic. A new vintage celebrating technical mastery and creativity.

“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves.” That was the message from Thierry Stern, president of the family-owned manufacture, in a recent communications campaign centering on the company’s brand philosophy. From the Grand Complications to the elegant sports models and others that have become icons of horological design, Patek Philippe maintains a vast choice of watches for men and women in every market segment. As time passes, the manufacture takes great care to ensure a balanced evolution of the approximately 150 references, which are crafted in small series, ranging from about ten pieces to a few hundred. The 17 new introductions presented at the Watches and Wonders 2023 salon are the perfect illustration.

Five refined new looks for the striking watches –Grand Complications emblematic of Patek Philippe

Since the manufacture’s foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe has made its mark as one of the greatest specialists in striking watches. Its supreme mastery was confirmed in 2014 by the launch, as a limited edition, of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch, with 20 complications. This timepiece, which joined the current collection in 2016, is particularly notable for its five chiming modes, including an alarm striking the pre-selected time, and a date repeater striking the date on demand.

The manufacture is reinterpreting the design of the double-face reversible case, endowed with a patented rotation mechanism, by presenting it for the first time in a bicolor version combining white gold and rose gold. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 also stands out by its two brown opaline dials, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the side displaying the time of day, and its two-tone chestnut brown patinated alligator strap and bicolor folding buckle.

In 2022, Patek Philippe highlighted the mechanical perfection of the Grandmaster Chime with two gem- set versions, one with baguette-cut diamonds (Reference 6300/400G-001) the other with baguette-cut diamonds and baguette-cut blue sapphires (Reference 6300/401G-001). Now, the manufacture is presenting a new alliance between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001 shimmering with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 ct) in a superb example of the “baguette” and “invisible” setting techniques. This timepiece is endowed with two dials in ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the time side and a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand stitching.

Another outstanding piece among the striking watches, Reference 5316, launched in 2017, unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator. In the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this timepiece a unique new modern allure –with a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and black-gradient rim, affording a veiled glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch.

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

The manufacture is also enriching its selection of minute-repeating wristwatches –the largest such range in a current collection –with two reinterpretations under the heading of Rare Handcrafts. Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model that always strikes the local time –is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Its dial center is adorned with a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene depicting one of the famous steamboats still plying the waters of Lake Geneva. Another new model, Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012, is endowed with a self-winding movement and “cathedral” gongs whose sound is particularly deep and rich. It features a new dial in blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a distinctive hand-guilloched swirling pattern.

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 

A new complicated model and refreshed designs in the Calatrava collection

With its sleek round case and air of understatement, the Calatrava collection (launched in 1932) has made its mark as the archetype of timeless elegance. Over the years, Patek Philippe has added to this vast family a variety of complications used in everyday life, such as the Travel Time dual time zone function and the weekly calendar. The manufacture is now expanding its range of travel watches with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 featuring the Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24- hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement is further distinguished by its patented system for correcting local time by the crown. It is housed in a rose-gold case harmonizing with a blue dial embellished by complex finishing touches, adorned with numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold, individually applied by hand.

Since 2015, the models in the Pilot style – inspired by the Patek Philippe watches created for aviators in the 1930s – have featured prominently in the manufacture’s collections, with several versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with the dual time-zone mechanism, as well as a Grand Complication equipped with a 24-hour alarm. Patek Philippe is now endowing this distinctive line, known for its original, highly recognizable aesthetic, with its first two chronograph models: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001, with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. These two watches house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement uniting three practical and user-friendly complications:   a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function and the date indicated by a hand, coupled with local time.

Other new models in the Patek Philippe current collection include the Calatrava references 6007G- 001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 featuring a graphic modern style. The ebony black dials, enriched with three types of finish, center an embossed “carbon” pattern. The dynamism of the design is heightened by touches of color on the dials and straps: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011). The white-gold cases house the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with date and stop-seconds function.

4997/200R - CALATRAVA

4997/200R – CALATRAVA

Patek Philippe is also expanding its range of elegant watches for women with the new Calatrava self- winding Reference 4997/200R-001, a reinterpretation of a great classic that catches the eye with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap decked out in purple. The dial, embossed with a pattern of concentric waves, is coated with more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, creating a mesmerizing sense of depth. The case is adorned with a diamond-set bezel and houses the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

New functions and new faces for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe made its mark in the domain of sporty elegance by designing two models that have acquired cult status: the Nautilus (1976) and the Aquanaut (1997), the latter strengthening its offer in 2004 with the launch of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce line. Following the introduction of a Travel Time dual time-zone model in 2021 and a self-winding chronograph version in 2022, the Aquanaut Luce is now treating itself to a new practical and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar. Graced with a blue-gray dial and strap, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 in rose gold enhances the choice of complicated watches for women with a non-gemset model.

The new self-winding ladies’ Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 coordinates a rose-gold case with a dial and integrated strap in taupe –a warm hue between brown and gray in perfect harmony with this model’s “modern casual chic” style. Its characteristic rounded octagonal bezel is lit by the fire of 48 diamonds. The case is water resistant to 120 m and houses the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with stop seconds.

The self-winding Aquanaut chronograph for men, already available in steel and in white gold, also sports a rose-gold case for the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968R-001, endowed with a sunburst dial in a gradient of brown to black, and a matching composite strap.

From technical models to jewelry pieces

In the segment of complicated watches for men, Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010 endowed with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial lends a new face to this alliance between two sought-after Patek Philippe complications.

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

The Gondolo collection, comprising the Patek Philippe “form watches” of Art Deco inspiration, announces the return of a jewelry watch with unique style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient, highlighting the case’s refined curves. The brown-lacquered dial presents a floral decoration with contrasting finishes.

A rich collection of rare handcrafts

 Once again, as in previous years, Patek Philippe is also unveiling a splendid collection of one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces (dome table clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches) showcasing the rarest and most refined of the artistic crafts, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, hand engraving and wood marquetry. The “Rare Handcrafts 2023” exhibition, bringing together these 67 creations, will be open to the public from April 1 to 15 2023 in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.

 

 

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

JAZZMASTEROPEN HEART LADY AUTO

Uplifting pink hues bring a breath of fresh air to our newest Jazzmaster Open Heart and Ardmore Quartz. Inspired by the flowers in bloom, the Jazzmaster Open Heart is enhanced with a dial dressed in subtle pink for feminine flair and crisp style.

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Exemplifying the versatile Art Deco appeal, the Ardmore Quartz celebrates the awakening of spring with a pink leather strap and a sunray silver dial with matching-in-color Roman numerals

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

#hamiltonwatch #pink #myluxepoint

blackplain 70-years-diving-watch-02

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS 70TH ANNIVERSARY

In 2023, Blancpain celebrates the 70th anniversary of the first modern diving watch.

Launched in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms is the first modern diver’s watch. Created by a diver to meet the needs of underwater exploration, it was chosen by diving pioneers and elite marine corps around the world as a professional timekeeping instrument. With its water resistance, robust doubled-sealed crown, self-winding movement, contrasting dark dial with luminescent indications, unidirectional rotating bezel and anti-magnetic protection, the Fifty Fathoms has become an indispensable instrument for divers on their underwater missions.

These key signature elements that established the Fifty Fathoms as the archetypal diver’s watch continue to define the identity of such timepieces for the entire watch industry. Bearing witness to the past while simultaneously looking firmly to the future, contemporary Fifty Fathoms models incorporate modern movements renowned for their robustness and reliability. They feature numerous technical innovations derived from Blancpain’s longstanding experience in the field of diving, its risks and its imperious necessities.

The Fifty Fathoms has played an essential role in the development of scuba diving and the discovery of the ocean world. It has enabled Blancpain to forge close links with the ocean community that have been consistently strengthened over the past 70 years. The Fifty Fathoms is the catalyst for Blancpain’s commitment to the preservation of the ocean.

Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin and Patrimony self-winding: Feminine timepieces

  • Vacheron Constantin has added new models to its Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections, aimed at women.
  • The Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch, equipped with in-house Calibre 
    1120 QP,  is offered in two gemset 36.5 mm versions in white gold and pink gold respectively.
  • The Patrimony self-winding watch, powered by in-house Calibre 2450 Q6/3, is interpreted through four references in white and pink gold featuring gemsetting on the bezel or dial, and with new gradient-effect dials
  • These six new references are fitted with straps that are interchangeable at the touch of a push-button.

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – The attention that Vacheron Constantin has devoted to women’s timepieces for more than two centuries is freshly interpreted through the models presented at Watches and Wonders 2022. A response to women’s growing desire for complex mechanical timepieces, the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch displays its technical nature in an eminently feminine manner; while the Patrimony self-winding watch flaunts a minimalist silhouette exuding a timeless elegance symbolising a distinctive kind of watchmaking classicism.

Vacheron Constantin and women: a story woven through time

Women took a very early interest in watchmaking, often to adorn their garments with objects that were sometimes unusual yet generally designed as real jewellery. This was however not to the detriment of their practical aspects, as confirmed by the numerous striking or calendar watches made with women in mind. Women also played a role as early adopters of wristwatches.

Vacheron Constantin has left its mark on each era, from the first ladies’ pocket watches made at the turn of the 18th century through to elegant contemporary creations. Whether functional or ceremonial objects, jewellery or sports watches, Vacheron Constantin’s women’s creations have consistently reflected the evolution of artistic sensibilities as well as of fashion trends. They bear witness to perpetually renewed aesthetic and technical creativity aimed at women, within which attention to detail shapes an anatomy of watchmaking beauty that is unique to the Maison.

Vacheron Constantin’s archives make it possible to trace the origins of ladies’ watches commissioned very early in the history of the Manufacture, including a sculpted yellow gold watch with quarter repeater and off-centre small seconds dating from 1838. The ensuring decades witnessed a succession of creations – sometimes housing horological complications and often precious with their hunter-type cases – leading up the appearance of the first wristwatches, a feminine accessory of which the first example in the Vacheron Constantin collection dates from 1889.

With the advent of the 20th century, the Maison’s feminine creations admirably embodied the spirit of the times, initially inspired by Art Nouveau, then Art Deco, with a clear penchant for jewellery watches. Cooperating with Vacheron Constantin’s French agent Verger lasted until 1938 and also brought its share of new models dedicated to women – some of which featured cameos inspired by Asian art or Ancient Greece. From the 1940s onwards, women began wearing watches almost exclusively on the wrist. The geometrical lines of the Art Deco period gradually gave way to more voluptuous shapes. Designed as jewels that tell the time, ‘secret’ watches with covers concealing the display of time were particularly popular at the time, and Vacheron Constantin displayed impressive stylistic inventiveness through its designs vividly reflecting the modern era.

In the wake of the 1970s, Vacheron Constantin dared to experiment with new, uninhibited shapes for ladies’ watches, before adopting the sportier lines of the Overseas range dedicated to the contemporary woman. In addition, the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections were designed to convey the technical sophistication and aesthetic refinement of time measurement for women. This approach was further accentuated by the recent launch of the Égérie watches: inspired by Haute Couture, they embody watchmaking expertise and a sensitivity to feminine codes that has been constantly reaffirmed over the centuries. Drawing on this heritage, Maison is now adding new models to its two Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections.

Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

The brand is unveiling a new feminine timepiece in its Traditionnelle collection, a line imbued with the grand Geneva watchmaking heritage and whose design was intended to adapt to all types of watches, whether simple or equipped with sophisticated complications. The Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch corresponds to women’s desire for mechanical complication timepieces.

This timepiece equipped with in-house Calibre 1120 QP elegantly plays on the distinctive aspects of the Gregorian calendar. It displays the days, dates, months and years on a four-year cycle, including a leap-year indication, without any need for correction before 2100. This calendar display is complemented by a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. Another distinctive feature of this movement is its thinness: measuring only 4.05 mm thick, it is housed in a 8.43 mm-thick case with a 36.5 mm diameter, ensuring perfect visual harmony.

Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in ultra-thin movements that has enabled it to set several records in terms of slimness since the 1950s. With its 276 components perfectly visible through the sapphire caseback, it also reflects noble watchmaking traditions through its extremely meticulous finishing: a circular-grained plate on the dial side, mainplate and bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif on the back, hand-bevelling, circular satin-finished holes and a going train with polished teeth. The oscillating weight featuring a 22K gold segment is also adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and openworked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.

This watch whose aesthetic refinement echoes its technical sophistication pays tribute to the identity codes of Vacheron Constantin, whereby the quest for excellence is expressed through the smallest, even invisible details. Available in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold versions, it is inspired by Vacheron Constantin models from the first half of the last century. It features the strong sense of understatement characterising the collection, embellished with a few special features such as the stepped lugs and case, fluted caseback, as well as Dauphine-type hands flying over a railway minutes track punctuated by baton-type hour-markers. In keeping with the methodical spirit of the time, which held that function should dictate form, this perpetual calendar has been specially designed to make it easy to read the calendar indications thanks to a slimmed-down bezel offering a larger dial opening.

The dial is adorned with blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl for the white gold model and white mother-of-pearl for the pink gold model. The moon-phase disc bears the same colours as the dial, while the depiction of the moon and the stars adopts the same shade of gold as the case, complete with an opaline finish. In a final touch of elegance, the bezel and top of the lugs are delicately set with 76 round-cut diamonds, while the crown is adorned with a round-cut diamond.

For the first time in the collection, this Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch is equipped with an interchangeable strap that can be fitted at the touch of a push-button and without any need for tools. Each model comes with an alligator leather strap – grey blue or rosy beige – secured by a white or pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds.

 

Patrimony self-winding

The Patrimony self-winding watch symbolises minimalist art expressed through horological refinement. Inspired by a historical 1957 Vacheron Constantin with a classic round, ultra-thin style and timeless elegance, the Patrimony collection has been distinguished since its launch in 2004 by a restrained and refined watchmaking aesthetic. In keeping with the line’s signature spirit of purity, the proportions of the new Patrimony models have been revisited. The curve of the 36.5 mm-diameter case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold has been redesigned, while the crown has been subtly rounded.

The slightly convex dial swept over by leaf-shaped hands following its curves features subtle shades of deep blue for the white gold version and blush pink for the pink gold version. These colours appear in a gradient-effect composition that is lighter in the centre and progressively darker towards the edge of the dial, thereby bringing light and depth to the display of the hours, minutes and seconds. The care lavished on each detail is reflected in the date disc at 6 o’clock, which has the same colour as the dial, and in the subtle play of gemsetting on the models. Each of the two versions features either a bezel set with 72 round-cut diamonds lighting up the circular-grained minutes track, or a minutes track itself composed of 48 round-cut diamonds positioned between the applied gold hour-markers. The gemsetting of the minutes track, a complex operation performed on an underlying domed surface, reflects an approach to watchmaking in which every detail is essential to the anatomy of Vacheron Constantin watches.

These four new references are powered by in-house 2450 Q6/3 movement driving displays of the hours and minutes along with central seconds and an aperture-type date. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour – an excellent compromise between precision and reliability – it is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. This 196-component self-winding movement is barely 3.6 mm thick. Its finishing, like that of the case, complies with Hallmark of Geneva criteria such as a circular-grained mainplate, hand-bevelled bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif, straight-grained finishing springs, a going train with polished sinks and burnished pinions. The transparent caseback also reveals an 22K gold openworked oscillating weight inspired by the Maltese cross.

These new Patrimony watches feature interchangeable straps in night blue or rosy beige alligator leather with an iridescent satin finish. They can be removed and replaced at the touch of a push-button, without any need for tools.

The Anatomy of Beauty®

These new Traditionnelle and Patrimony models perfectly illustrate the Maison’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme, celebrating the attentiveness to detail. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.

 

Sum-up

From the first pocket watches at the turn of the 18th century to contemporary wristwatches, Vacheron Constantin has always been able to capture the spirit of the times and meet women’s expectations.

Greatly appreciated by connoisseurs, the 4.05 mm in-house Calibre 1120 QP gives life to a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin designed for women’s wrists. This 36.5 mm-diameter model reflects Vacheron Constantin’s grand tradition of horological complications, notably interpreted through ultra-thin versions. Its 18K white or 18K 5N pink gold case bears the identity codes of the Traditionnelle collection featuring meticulous handcrafted finishing. Its gem-set bezel and its dial graced with delicately shimmering mother-of-pearl have been meticulously designed to ensure optimum legibility of the calendar indications.

True to its restrained and timeless elegance inherited from the 1950s, the new Patrimony self-winding watch reveals a slimmer feminine anatomy graced with redesigned curves and a slightly domed dial with a deep, luminous gradient. This 36.5 mm-diameter model is available in white gold with a deep blue dial or in pink gold with a blush pink dial, complete with either a bezel set with 72 diamonds and a “pearl” minute track, or with a gold bezel and a minute track set with 48 diamonds. The apparent simplicity of the Patrimony self-winding watch stems from meticulous attention to detail, as evidenced by the finishing of its self-winding in-house Calibre 2450 Q6/3 driving displays of the hours, minutes, seconds and date.

These new models in the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections feature interchangeable straps that can be released at the touch of a single button and without the need for tools.

*****************************************************************

TECHNICAL DATA
Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

References
4305T/000G-B948
4305T/000R-B947

Calibre
1120 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
Moon phases                                                          

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.43 mm thick
Bezel and lugs set with 76 round-cut diamonds
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Blue grey/White mother-of-pearl
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hands

Strap
Blue grey (4305T/000G-B948) / Rosy beige (4305T/000R-B947) Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin leather inner shell, stitched tip, square scales          
 With integrated self-interchangeable system

Buckle                                                        
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds

Total diamond-setting                           
94 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
1.20 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

*****************************************************************

TECHNICAL DATA
Patrimony self-winding

References
4115U/000G-B908
4115U/000R-B907

Calibre
2450 Q6/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.20 mm diameter (11¼’’’), 3.60 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Heures, minutes, central seconds
Date                    

Case                                                           
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
Bezel set with 72 round-cut diamonds
36.5 mm diameter, 8.45 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Deep blue / blush pink, gradient effect
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track composed by 48 polished 18K gold pearls
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hour/minutes hands

Strap
Night blue/Rosy beige Mississippiensis alligator leather with satin-effect, calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With integrated self-interchangeable system

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Total diamond-setting
72 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
0.74 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

*****************************************************************
FICHE TECHNIQUE
Patrimony self-winding

Références
4110U/000G-B906
4110U/000R-B905

Calibre
2450 Q6/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.20 mm diameter (11¼’’’), 3.60 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Heures, minutes, central seconds
Date

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.45 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Deep blue / blush pink, gradient effect
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track composed by 48 round-cut diamonds
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hour/minutes hands

Strap
Night blue/Rosy beige Mississippiensis alligator leather with satin-effect, calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With self-interchangeable system integrated

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Overseas tourbillon skeleton: A breath of fresh air for an emblematic complication

  • First tourbillon skeleton watch in the Overseas collection
  • Two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium respectively 
  • First Vacheron Constantin all-titanium model with integrated bracelet
  • Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, redesigned and skeletonised with a new balance-spring featuring a Breguet overcoil

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – The tourbillon, one of the most emblematic Haute Horlogerie complications, joins the Overseas collection in a skeletonised version. Manufacture Calibre 2160 has been redesigned for the occasion in a contemporary, entirely openworked spirit. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium – first Vacheron Constantin model made entirely of this metal- versions complete with integrated bracelets, this watch is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case.

Vacheron Constantin continues the travel spirit of the Overseas watches with this new tourbillon skeleton model, a first in this collection launched in 1996. Beautifully streamlined with its entirely openworked movement; sophisticated with its robust case; rigorously disciplined with its tourbillon-driven movement ensuring a comfortable over three-day power reserve, this timepiece is designed for the finest journeys – exactly as François Constantin, the tireless traveller who signed an enduring alliance with Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron in 1819, would doubtless have presented it.

The watch comes in two versions, one in 18K 5N pink gold and the other in Grade 5 titanium. The titanium model is the first by the Maison to be entirely made of this same metal – from crown to bezel and from bracelet to case. The self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2160 powering these timepieces has been entirely skeletonised in a contemporary spirit with a degree of attention to detail stemming from an authentic aesthetic quest celebrated through Vacheron Constantin’s “Anatomy of Beauty ®” 2022 theme.

A finely crafted movement, Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ

The skeletonisation work carried out on self-winding Calibre 2160 has enabled not only a 20% reduction in the movement’s weight but also a complete rethink of its architecture. Its curvature is thus very slender, at barely 5.65 mm thick – a real technical feat considering the requirements linked to the integration of a tourbillon carriage. This thinness is notably due to the choice of a peripheral gold oscillating weight, which also enables a completely clear view of the rear of the movement. The work done on the baseplate and the four bridges can be clearly admired, with the NAC (N-acetylcysteine) surface treatment applied by electrolysis conferring an anthracite grey tint. This contemporary touch given to the movement blends perfectly with the classic haute horlogerie finishes in the form of hand-drawn flanks and hand-chamfering with polished bevels to accentuate the light playing across the components. The mainplate and bridges are also delicately decorated to create a finish of very fine, perfectly horizontal grooves. Such concern for details is a credo which holds that even the smallest part deserves the same meticulous attention as those that are perfectly visible.

The same NAC surface treatment can be found on the barrel, of which the drum and cover have been entirely openworked, creating a compass rose shape on the dial side – another original feature of Calibre 2160 SQ. To complete the openworking of this 186-component movement, the wheels have also been made lighter, while the tourbillon is held by a rounded-off upper bridge. The tourbillon regulator rotating once per minute operates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and serves as a small seconds indicator by means of one of the four screws used to secure the carriage and which is grey on the pink gold version and flame-blued on the titanium version.

For this new calibre, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have also redesigned the regulating organ housed in the tourbillon carriage coupled with the escapement. A new balance-spring was designed in-house, equipped with a Breguet overcoil (terminal curve). By folding the outer spring coil towards the centre, outside its horizontal plane, this arrangement forces a flat development of the spring, thus ensuring enhanced isochronism.

The art of details

The sapphire crystal serving as the dial reveals all the details of the calibre, like a horological anatomy taking shape with each component. The hour-markers secured to this crystal are in rhodium-plated 18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold, depending on the model. The same noble metals are used for the hands which, like the hour-markers, are coated with Super-LumiNova® ensuring perfect night-time visibility. The dial ring is available in black lacquered 18K 5N pink gold or in blue PVD-treated 18K white gold.

Particular care has been devoted to the finishing of the case and bracelet. The bezel ring is circular satin-brushed on the 18K 5N pink gold version and sandblasted on the Grade 5 titanium iteration. The case and bracelet of both models are vertically satin-brushed with polished angles on the bracelet links, whose shape is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem.

Both watches feature the Overseas collection specific interchangeable strap system. They come with two straps in calfskin and rubber: black with two 18K 5N pink gold pin buckles for the gold model; and blue with an interchangeable titanium folding clasp for the titanium model.

The Anatomy of Beauty ®

The Overseas tourbillon skeleton watch features architecture and finishes that are meticulous in every detail, reflecting the quest for excellence cherished by the Maison, whose 2022 “Anatomy of Beauty®” theme pays tribute to the extraordinary work of its artisans. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.**********************

Sum-up

Several “firsts” characterize the new Overseas tourbillon skeleton model. It is the first timepiece in the collection equipped with a tourbillon movement in a skeletonised version. The new Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, featuring hand-crafted finishes characteristic of haute horlogerie yet in a contemporary spirit, is equipped with an original regulating organ featuring a balance-spring with a Breguet overcoil. The openworking of the barrel reveals a cover shaped like compass rose, a novel design for Vacheron Constantin. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium, this latest version is the first Vacheron Constantin watch made entirely of this metal, including the bezel and crown. This breath of fresh air, which is entirely in keeping with the travel spirit of the Overseas collection, is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case. Each component is reworked and finished by hand, perfectly illustrating the Maison’s Anatomy of Beauty theme for 2022, which highlights all the richness and subtlety of the details featured in a Vacheron Constantin timepiece. Both versions come with two interchangeable leather and rubber straps.

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference
6000V/110R-B934
6000V/110T-B935

Calibre
2160 SQ
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)
186 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications                                   
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Tourbillon                            

Case                                                
18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium
42.5 mm diameter, 10.39 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Sapphire

18K 5N pink gold / 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®

Bracelet
18K 5N pink gold bracelet / Grade 5 Titanium (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system

Additional straps
Black / blue calfskin leather with white stitches
Black / blue rubber

Buckles
6000V/110R-B934: Each additional strap comes with a 18K 5N pink gold
6000V/110T-B935: Titanium Grade 5 interchangeable folding-clasp

Ref. 6000V/110T-B935 (titanium version) only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

HUBLOT CAMPAIGN WITH KYLIAN MBAPPÉ

Considered one of the world’s best footballers, Kylian Mbappé is in the prime of his life, a living embodiment of passion, success and the power of dreams. Multidisciplinary creative director Ezra Petronio captures the player’s excellence, applying an uncompromising, timeless yet contemporary aesthetic that eschews ostentation in the latest Hublot advertising campaign.

The global player Mbappé, renowned for his sporting intelligence, spirit and dedication, is a true icon of world football; and yet, it was on the intensity of his direct gaze and his openness that the internationally-acclaimed photographer chose to focus for the new campaign.

Mbappé, Ezra and Hublot are united by shared values including a long-standing respect for creativity, work, integrity and the quest for perfection.

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface: a contemporary aesthetic for a model reflecting Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

  • A new openworked sapphire face for the Traditionnelle complete calendar watch, interpreted through two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold
  • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with triple calendar and precision moon phase
  • A highly contemporary aesthetic for these timepieces, heirs to Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

Geneva,- Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The openworked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.

Revisiting the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva’s watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCL/2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.

Airy construction

The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers – embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment – highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.

The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.

Calibre 2460 QCL/2

Beating at the heart of these two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, it beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.

———————————————————-

Sum-up

The two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watches in white and pink gold combine the classic attributes of the collection with an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The dial is made of sapphire crystal opening onto the movement featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic treatment. This total transparency on both sides of the watch highlights the technical nature of its horological complications. Equipped with a self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/2, these two 41 mm models provide a complete calendar display complemented by age of the moon and precision moon phase indications. The day and month are shown through central dial apertures below the 12 o’clock hour-marker, while the date is indicated on the periphery by a central hand. Already available in rose and white gold in a more classic interpretation with a solid dial, the two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface versions are paired with a grey alligator leather strap.


TECHNICAL DATA

Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654

Calibre
2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Assembled in three parts:

  • Slate grey guilloche upper part
  • Slate grey opaline flange
  • Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers

18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

A TALE OF LEGENDARY CRAFT

THE KNIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE

Passion. Commitment. Boldness. The codes of chivalry may be thousands of years old but their virtues are still alive within the minds of many. That is why excellence continues to be the goal for Roger Dubuis. Yet the Maison’s ultimate mission is its perpetual quest to challenge the rules of the game – and represent the future of Hyper Horology as a result.

This mindset is taken to new heights for the latest evolution of the iconic Knights of the Round Table collection. Setting a new standard, the timepiece is adorned with rare artistic mastery, outstanding craftsmanship and unbridled creativity. Infused with the legacy of a legend, yet designed with the future in mind, it is a powerful statement for the here and now. For the modern wearer who understands how the strength of the past creates power in the present – and beyond. But this story of legendary craft cannot just be told to anyone. It is a privilege reserved for a few. Ones in the know. Bold enough to discover it? Take a seat at the table.

FORGING A MYTH THROUGH MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP

The threat is real. The battle is on. In the mysterious depths of a forgotten place, twelve brave knights prepare to defend their kingdom against the power of gravitational force. The ground is fracturing, the broken earth begins to crack. Sensing danger, the knights position themselves against this invisible enemy. Will they triumph?

Bringing a legend to life in the most exciting way yet, twelve hour-marked knights cast in 18k 750/1000 pink gold are designed to appear in flux in their own unique postures. This is the true feat of hyper-expressive craftsmanship that took a year and a half to master. Through the complex art of micro-sculpture, each character is complete with medieval armour, plates, shield and helmet, while their customised weapons are drawn ready to fight whatever bursts from beneath their feet. Here lies the stage that required the manual hand-assembly of each and every piece of the glass puzzle. With fine detailing as intricate as this, Roger Dubuis all but proves its métiers d’art credentials. An honour – like those of the knights – reserved for the few, whatever era it’s found within.

Symbolising an imagined scene where the knights prepare to defend themselves from imminent danger, each warrior is settled against a transparent blood red flange developed from precious Murano glass. This artisanal rarity is also used to construct the dark and shiny texture of the black dial. Part of the great Venetian tradition, Murano glass bends light in uniquely modern and interesting ways.

ARMED WITH HOROLOGICAL MASTERY

The evolved Knights of the Round Table timepiece merges a legend from the past with futuristic design cues to produce a charismatic emblem for right now. Powered by an automatic Monobalancier RD821 calibre, its new contemporary finish and design includes a clean-cut case made from a rich and remarkable 18k 750/1000 pink gold.  Just as the fiercely brave knights are loyal to their oath of duty, the Maison is loyal to hyper expressive craftsmanship. Indeed, maintaining the highest standards of excellence included hand-finishing all parts of this 45mm movement with meticulous care, and according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

Meanwhile, the crown and its protector are intentionally shaped like the guard of a sword, designed to appear as if a blade is stuck inside the watch, just like the Excalibur sword in the stone that Arthur was crowned a king for pulling free.

To make the most of the knight’s fine detailing, a new transparent sapphire crystal ring under the bezel provides a full view of their elaborate facets. Now, discerning collectors are secretly invited to enjoy all aspects of their features with this hyper exclusive view available only to them.

On the back of the case, the oscillating weight is completely redesigned with a circular finish comprised of two woven layers of tilted pyramid shapes that create the appearance of castle-stained glass. Inspired by the triangular notches around the edge of the timepiece, this sophisticated design choice provides a mesmeric view of the weight moving inside the mosaic. Around the display an engraving of the famous oath spoken, as the legend goes, by all knights who sought to defend King Arthur reads: “Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak and humbling the proud.” Honouring this mythical sentiment, yet designed to mark the cues of the modern world, the wearer can lean into a legend from the past to bring him power in the present.

A black calf leather strap – the first of the Knights of the Round Table collection to feature a Quick Release System – allows for easy interchangeability, while completing the luxurious look and feel of this legendary timepiece fit for the warrior of today.

Only a few privileged have the honour of wearing a Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table timepiece; a hyper expressive timepiece that combines the power, myth and know-how of the past and the modern world. That’s why scarcity must reign when it comes to craft like this. With a limited series of 28 pieces available exclusively in Roger Dubuis boutiques, will you become one of the lucky few?

A secret unearthed, a valiant quest embarked upon. But a legend does not die that easily, and neither does danger. What else might emerge from the deepest depths? To be continued….

NO RULES. OUR GAME.

ABOUT ROGER DUBUIS

The rush of adrenalin, a pounding heart, the sure and certain knowledge that something is about to happen: ENTER THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY. Impertinent, excessive, incisive, uncompromising, and slightly mad, this is Roger Dubuis. Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture, an innovative spirit, a flagrant disregard for convention and irrepressible daring are the cornerstones of its irrepressibly bold attitude; the lifeblood of its non-conformist and unmistakably contemporary timepieces. That’s what Roger Dubuis is all about!  Laugh, scream, roar, and above all, create… for an exclusive tribe that believes in the value of living larger than life at every turn. Inspired by other cutting-edge industries and out-of-the-box designs, boundary-pushing technical sophistication combined with an inbred passion for extravagance to prove, time and time again, that Roger Dubuis is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe ”Advanced Research”

The manufacture presents a pioneering innovation for one of its most significant fields of competence – chiming watches.

The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” have extended the horizon of its chiming watches by developing a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality. Crowned by four patents, the pioneering technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

The spirit of innovation has been in Patek Philippe’s DNA since the company was founded. True to this uninterrupted tradition, the manufacture has spared no effort to further push the limits of watchmaking artistry and move at the forefront of technical development. But Patek Philippe considers innovations to be meaningful only if they offer the user genuine added value in terms of quality, precision, and dependability in the long run.Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.

To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.). Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar.

In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.

A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer.

Today, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department can present an important technical milestone in a domain that relates to the superb competencies of the manufacture: the chiming watches, or, more precisely, the minute repeaters. As regards these grand complications, Patek Philippe offers the largest portfolio of regularly produced models.Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions. After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm. Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.

A flexibly suspended sound lever

To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm. When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A new type of sound propagation

Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass. Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring. The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing. Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.

Platinum components

Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.A limited edition of 15 watches

To present the exclusive system of sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe is launching a limited special edition of the watch as was the case previously with the “Advanced Research” innovations. The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges – 950 platinum.

In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same openworked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges. The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.

With its unique fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” presents an innovation that will seduce all enthusiasts of minute repeaters and technical debuts. It opens up totally new horizons for chiming watches.

Patents

Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer:
PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Sound amplification mechanism:
EP3812844 A1 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE

Platinum hammers:
CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG

Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT