, , , , ,

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

Timepiece with four hands • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve • 30° inclined GREUBEL FORSEY balance wheel system

This creation combines fully – and visibly –sport and chronometry. Circular from above, its case reveals the unique arched ovoid shape from other angles, and its slim profile reinforces its dynamic new momentum

The oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. The perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6 mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance. Its 30° angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance and is prominently visible in action thanks to the unique movement architecture

Balancier S

The exceptional chronometry of this creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement’s reliability and chronometric performance at all times

/by
, , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers: a new window on the world and on history, opened by talented Master artisans

Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers: a new window on the world and on history, opened by talented Master artisans

  • A series of three ten-piece limited editions, paying homage to the Portuguese sailors Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral.
  • Miniature masterpieces, with Grand Feu enamel dials inspired by a map from the 1519 Miller Atlas, of which a reproduction is kept in the Portuguese Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha – Lisbon).
  • The Manufacture 1120 AT movement powering an off-centre display of the hours and minutes, leaving ample space to express the Maison’s artistic crafts.

Geneva, 2021 – They evoke a time when the world had yet to be discovered. They retrace the famous epic journeys of the great 15th century explorers who braved the seas and oceans to discover distant horizons. Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Pedro Álvares Cabral: Vacheron Constantin celebrates their spirit of adventure through a new series of three ten-piece limited editions, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers. Crafted in Grand Feu enamel, each dial depicts selected portions of a 1519 map from the Miller Atlas. These three masterpieces of miniaturisation and expertise are driven by the Manufacture 1120 AT movement. These new models, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, are part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

The spirit of travel, exploration and discovery of arts and cultures is an integral part of Vacheron Constantin’s history. A history rooted in the origins of the Manufacture, in an age when François Constantin did not hesitate to travel the world to open new markets and to fly the banner of the Maison high and wide, wherever possible. This openness to the world still pervades the philosophy of the Manufacture, which symbolically celebrates the spirit of adventure through a new journey – on this occasion a voyage through time – in memory of the great 15th century Portuguese explorers.

With this third opus in the Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers collection, which completes two series presented in 2004 and 2008, Vacheron Constantin ventures into one of history’s most exhilarating chapters. In the wake of models dedicated to Magellan, Zheng Hé, Christopher Columbus and Marco Polo, which proved a great success with collectors, comes the turn of Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral to be honoured through extraordinary miniature compositions enhanced by talented master artisans. They bear witness to the noble touch and impressive creativity of the enamellers whose mastery of Grand Feu enamel once again broadens the horizons of the Métiers d’Art collection. A rare skill extending an invitation to travel while firing the imagination.

Masterful miniature Grand Feu enamel expressions of patience and meticulous care
Inspired by a map from the 1519 Miller Atlas, of which a painted reproduction is kept in the Portuguese Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha – Lisbon), each dial shows a part of the world and the maritime routes respectively taken by the three explorers. In order to replicate the finely nuanced colours and the extreme delicacy of the motifs, the Maison opted for the art of enamelling. The result is three dials in Grand Feu enamel, masterpieces of patience and precision that require a full month’s work and 11 firings in the kiln at a temperature of between 800 and 900°C. These are all stages in which mastering fire proves crucial, since a few seconds too many can jeopardise several weeks of work.

The art of enamelling is a rare skill, a subtle blend of experience and sensitivity demonstrated in each move made by the artisan. Composed of crystal and metal oxides, enamels come in the form of small blocks of colour that the enameller first crushes into an extremely fine powder. The latter is then worked to create a substance similar to paint, which is applied in successive touches, enabling the enameller to represent motifs with incredible finesse and nuance. After coating the dial with the background colour, the enameller tackles the dial motifs, starting with the outlines of the continents, which are here enhanced with gold-coloured enamel powder. The decorative elements of this elegant composition – including the ships, fauna, flora and wind rose – are also produced using the delicate technique of miniature painting, thus serving to reproduce a host of details and subtly graded shades, obtained after numerous tests by the enameller. Each addition of colour requires another firing, since enamel is a mineral material that must be melted down in order to display its famous brilliance and intense depth.

Calibre 1120 AT with satellite hours
So as to give free rein to the enameller’s expertise, the three Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers models are powered by in-house Calibre 1120 AT. This movement is distinguished first and foremost by its 5.45 mm thinness enabling the 41 mm-diameter 4N pink gold case to maintain a trim 11.68 mm overall thickness guaranteeing an elegant appearance on the wrist.

The mechanism is also distinguished by its singular construction and its original time display mode enabling the wearer to travel visually through the dial as the hours pass by. Concealed beneath the upper part of the dial, the hours wheel is equipped with three arms each bearing four hours numerals, driven in turn by a cam shaped like the Manufacture’s Maltese cross inspired emblem. This ingenious satellite module enables the hours to sweep across the dial from top to bottom, traversing the fixed minutes circle positioned along a 120° arc. The hours numerals thus travel through the dial and their position gives an indication of the minutes replacing a traditional hand-type display.

Revealed through the transparent caseback, the movement decorations – notably including the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose – are entirely worthy of its technical nature.

Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers –Bartolomeu Dias
If his crews had not convinced him to give up on continuing the journey beyond the southern tip of Africa, perhaps Bartolomeu Dias (1450 – 1500) would have been the first to reach the Indies. The illustrious Portuguese explorer made history in a different way, by discovering the Cape of Good Hope in 1488, paving the way for future expeditions. Bartolomeu Dias was also a member of the crew of Vasco da Gama, who led his fleet to Indies between 1497 and 1498.

The route taken by Bartolomeu Dias’ ships in 1488 is represented by a red line on the Grand Feu enamel dial, enhanced by numerous incredibly refined details. With the help of a magnifying glass, a close look will reveal the silhouette of the men composing the explorer’s crew on board the two ships sailing west of Africa; or the palette of shades used by the enameller to precisely reproduce the landscapes, fauna and flora as they are represented on the map of the Miller Atlas.

Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers – Vasco da Gama
The long journey that took him from Portugal to the coasts of India was one of the most important 15th century discoveries. The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama (1469 –1524), who left his native country in 1497, was the first to travel from Europe and Asia by sea, following an epic and often hellish journey across the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. After circumnavigating the southern tip of Africa, his fleet of four ships sailed along the coast as far as Kenya before embarking on a crossing towards the Indies, which he reached in 1498.

The sea route taken by its crew is finely traced in red enamel on the dial, each detail of which is a very faithful reproduction of the map appearing in the Miller Atlas. The gaze will naturally be drawn to a ship from Vasco da Gama’s fleet in the dial centre, sails billowing on a stormy sea; or to the circumference of the wind rose and the continents enhanced with gold-coloured enamel powder.

Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers – Pedro Álvares Cabral
It is to this Portuguese aristocrat and explorer that we owe the discovery of Brazil in 1500. Pedro Álvares Cabral (1467 – 1520) was commissioned by King Manuel I of Portugal to travel to the Indies to continue the work of Vasco da Gama, but he took a very different route from his contemporary. Rather than sailing along the African coast to the southern tip of Africa, the fleet led by Pedro Álvares Cabral headed west, until they discovered a new world, Brazil.

This route is depicted by a red enamel line standing out against a beige enamel background punctuated by extremely faithful representations of the elements present on the map of the Miller Atlas. In the centre of the dial, a ship from Pedro Álvares Cabral’s fleet, sails buffeted by the wind, proudly cleaves the sea in an extraordinarily lifelike manner. The accuracy of the craftsmanship is also expressed in the shimmering feathers of the birds as well as in the depiction of human figures on the South American continent.

Classic with a Twist

Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

———————————————————————————-

Sum-up

Vacheron Constantin explores an exhilarating page of history with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers’ collection, available in a series of three ten-piece limited editions. In the wake of Magellan, Zheng Hé, Christopher Columbus and Marco Polo, to whom the Manufacture had already paid tribute in 2004 and 2008, comes the turn of Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral to be honoured through extraordinary compositions enhanced by talented master artisans. To celebrate the discoveries made by these three 15th century Portuguese navigators, the Maison has opted for Grand Feu enamel and the technique of miniature painting. Masterpieces of patience and meticulous care, each of the three dials represents part of a map from the 1519 Miller Atlas, of which a reproduction is kept in Portuguese Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha – Lisbon). These extraordinarily precise compositions are framed by a slim 18K 4N pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter. In order to provide abundant expressive scope for the enameller, these models beat to the rhythm of the 1120 AT self-winding movement, driving an off-centre time display thanks to a satellite hours module.

———————————————————————————-

TECHNICAL DATA

Métiers d’Art Tribute to great explorers

Reference
7500U/000R-B687: Bartolomeu Dias
7500U/000R-B688: Vasco da Gama
7500U/000R-B689: Pedro Álvares Cabral

Calibre
1120 AT
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
22K gold oscillating weight with tapisserie decor
32.80 mm (12 ½ ‘’’ diameter), 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
205 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Dragging hours, minutes

Case
18K 4N pink gold
41mm diameter, 11.68 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
18K gold, two-level dial, Grand Feu enamel
Enamelled hour-markers

Strap
Blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 4N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Limited series of ten timepieces per reference.
Models available exclusively through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

/by
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon
, , ,

BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: A FEAT OF PURE SAPPHIRE

BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: A FEAT OF PURE SAPPHIRE

It is true that sometimes less is more – perhaps a lot more. With the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire, Hublot has taken its Art of Fusion to its ultimate conclusion. A new integral bracelet and case custom-made from sapphire: this feat affirms yet again the technical proficiency and the exceptional expertise that Hublot has acquired in the working of sapphire.

 April 2021 – For some, this will seem a natural development. For others, it will be a total disconnect. The final result is a little of each. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire is the fruit of a long tradition. It is rooted in 2016, and the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, the first sapphire watch. With this piece, Hublot translated the expertise it had developed in machining very hard materials to create an exceptional series of sapphire watches. Today, Hublot is pushing these boundaries even further: the first Big Bang with an integrated case and bracelet, both of which are made from sapphire. A natural (r)evolution and a highly technical feat in equal measure.

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

” For such an exceptional creation, we opted for the new Automatic Tourbillon calibre with its sapphire bridges, the transparency of which creates a stunning spectacle. The act of creating an integrated case and bracelet from sapphire was, however, deemed impossible. But we were the first brand to gain perfect mastery of sapphire, industrialising it and making it reproducible in series production. It took us five years to bring our first sapphire cases to life – and almost as long for the bracelet. Producing both from sapphire and integrating them together is the pinnacle of the in-depth work undertaken by all of Hublot’s teams. We are proud to be the ones writing the first lines in this new chapter in the history of materials”. – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Watchmakers are sometimes the only ones to know certain details of their watches. With a case and bracelet made entirely from sapphire, all secrets are revealed: the movement and casing fuse, and every aspect is visible.

The case of this new Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire has been reconstructed in its entirety to house the Automatic Tourbillon movement. The goal: to remove almost all of the visible screws, overhaul the general geometry of the case to integrate it with the sapphire bracelet, develop a new case profile to house the sapphire bracelet, and rework the bridges and main plates to give them the illusion of being suspended in space. Hublot also developed inserts and attachments which were reduced to their simplest expression, to allow light through every component. The case is thus composed of no fewer than 37 components, five of which are made solely from sapphire.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

The bracelet was also a complex challenge: it alone comprises 165 components, 22 of which are made from sapphire. Each component had its own industrial process. A third of these were specially designed to provide unique harmony with the transparency of the case, and to offer fluidity and flexibility. Of particular note are the titanium inserts Hublot developed, ultra-reduced to ensure they do not protrude either side of each bracelet link – a first for the manufacture, and probably for watchmaking.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

In terms of the movement, the HUB6035 automatic manufacture calibre, entirely designed and manufactured in-house, is the beating heart of the piece. It demonstrates a perfect balance between the micro-rotor at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and also with its three transparent sapphire bridges, exclusive to this new Big Bang. The components appear to be literally suspended in space. Each gear train is not only penetrated by light coming in from the dial side and passing through the skeleton movement on the other side: now, and for the first time, light enters the heart of the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire from all directions. It is diffused, refracted, reflected, twisted and twirled – a fragment of light encapsulated on the wrist.
/by
, , ,

ROGER DUBUIS – A NEW TRIBE LANDS AS AN ICON ASCENDS

A NEW TRIBE LANDS AS AN ICON ASCENDS

Roger Dubuis has consistently demonstrated a penchant for impertinence and extravagance. Sustained by an integrated manufacture, a flagrant disregard for convention is the backbone of its bold attitude. A true innovator, the luxury watchmaker is driven by an irrepressible willingness to come up with high-impact ideas, boundary-pushing technologies and unmistakable out-of-the-box designs. Living by the motto NO RULES, OUR GAME, the Maison proves once again it is the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY IS HERE

Extravagant, determined and disruptive, the bold and bright are the ones that stand out. Just like any star should. But a star doesn’t just appear. It takes dedication. Innovation. Craftsmanship. Only then can an icon ascend…Introducing the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon: a star restyled for the new world.

To mark the launch of the inimitable skeleton design reinterpreted with a contemporary touch, Roger Dubuis is set to celebrate modern art in all its shapes. Taking form in Hyper Horology with the Maison’s most recent interpretation of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon, this icon of watchmaking is brought to a whole new level; a masterpiece that cannot be ignored, just like its wearer.

Finding kinship with those disruptive souls who dare to make a difference, the Maison partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, world-famous urban culture artists that reflect Roger Dubuis’ values: break the rules, showcase radical expertise and obsess daily over the design of the future.

THE EXCALIBUR SINGLE FLYING TOURBILLON: FROM A TIMEPIECE TO A MASTERPIECE

Roger Dubuis continues shaking up the world of haute horlogerie with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon. Enhanced with meticulous care, the timepiece is reinterpreted with sophistication and flair using modern and technical materials.

A contemporary masterpiece for the wrist, the new design showcases clean cut lines on both case and movement. Creating the impression of a thinner look and feel, while heightening the sense of transparency and depth, the calibre is rebuilt from bottom to top in an architectural feat that sees the Roger Dubuis star now levitate freely above the barrel. A strong visual identity is created with a signature two-line pattern – seen between the notch on the crown and bezel, the star’s arms, the tourbillon’s cage, the hour’s marking on the flange, the hands – all of which cleverly appear as though they will meet but never do. This dynamic aesthetic is amplified by the Poinçon de Genève, the most demanding signature in fine watchmaking and one that requires the manual decoration of each and every component of the watch, as well as unexpected and antinomic decorations in modern haute horlogerie, such as circular-brushed top surfaces and polished angles that demonstrate Roger Dubuis’ visionary approach.

Always keeping the wearer in mind, the new RD512SQ calibre is stunning in its technical prowess. Now with a titanium lower tourbillon cage – twice lighter than stainless steel – and a mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome upper tourbillon cage, the weight of the piece is reduced to optimum effect. All of which allows the power reserve to be radically optimised to 72 hours, providing the option of leaving the watch unworn over weekends without the worry of resetting come Monday. Proving no detail goes unconsidered, non-magnetic material is used inside the tourbillon to better serve the wearers and improve their experience.

Comfort is key, which is why a range of entirely new strap sizes have become available. With 5 sizes from 0 to 4, finding the perfect strap ensures the buckle is always centred on the wrist, as a Quick Release System offers ultimate flexibility. Underscored by rarity, the 42mm case is only available in eighty-eight pieces per colourway: Dark Grey DLC Titanium, Cobalt Chrome CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM and the new EON GOLD, a pink gold shade that remains more stable thanks to non-tarnish technology. Reimagined for a contemporary era, an icon ascends in the shape of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE ART OF GLOW

Showcasing the Maison’s obsession with art, light and luminescence, in addition to our icons comes the Excalibur Glow Me Up, a world-premiere for Roger Dubuis limited to just eight timepieces.

By day, the new Single Flying Tourbillon calibre is elegantly adorned with 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel. By night, it’s a complete different version that comes to life through this vibrant timepiece with luminescent and dazzling diamonds, an achievement made possible thanks to an intricate two-part process. The first involves filling the grooves that hold the stones in place with Super-Luminova, a singular way to make the diamonds appear luminescent without altering them. Secondly, an additional patent enables Super-Luminova to be applied on the angles of the movement, as well as to the iconic star-shaped bridge.Because at Roger Dubuis less is never more.

ART IN THE MAKING

Roger Dubuis is a destination for the avant-garde. Committed to non-conformity, the Maison stands with those who choose to blaze their own trail. To show what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed, Roger Dubuis partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, composed of three urban culture creatives – tattoo artist Dr. Woo, graffiti artist Gully and mixed-media artist Liu Wei. Rulebreakers in their own fields, they too shape the future by refusing to take ‘no’ for an answer. Brought together to unite a wider community of daring minds, Roger Dubuis and the URBAN ART TRIBE hope to encourage people to challenge the way things are, just as the Maison does when it comes to Hyper Horology, and Dr. Woo and Gully do in their industries.

A leading name among an influential elite who see tattoos, art and fashion as an indissociable whole, Dr. Woo’s singular approach to needle style has shifted the paradigm for tattoos, taking them from subculture to broad popular appeal. Of the partnership he says: “I’ve taken this path because I don’t know where it leads, and that is exactly why I’m here – to seek the unknown and go out of my comfort zone. Tattooing and watchmaking have that in common: the same attention to detail, a dot vs. a tiny component, assembled perfectly for you to see the bigger picture.”

Gully, a well-known graffiti artist, chooses to work exclusively in his own atelier to maintain his anonymity. He uses a wide variety of mixed techniques and materials and explains his artistic concept as one based on conscious appropriation. Telling visual stories of children appearing in splendid settings, he reveals their enchantment with art and particularly with the paintings of the great masters. Speaking to the concept of the tribe, he comments: “Two worlds, a crossing path. I feel driven by the same energy and insatiable envy to come up with something we have never seen before. It comes as a bombshell, provokes surprise, and arouses interest. Bringing different worlds together is my trademark, so I can’t wait to show you the Gully x Roger Dubuis mixture.”

Generously opening the doors to their respective workshops, Dr. Woo and Gully will begin their long-term partnerships with Roger Dubuis by first sharing their creative processes at work. Initially set to reinterpret the brand’s iconic astral signature, they will continue to co-create the future of Hyper Horology alongside the Maison.

AN EXCLUSIVE INVITATION

From April 7 to 13th, Roger Dubuis turns this year’s Watches&Wonders edition into an interactive journey for its guests to dive into the realms of the Maison’s creative process and beyond. Come and celebrate contemporary art in all its shapes, from Hyper Horology to tattoo art, graffiti and beyond.

/by
, , , , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

  • A single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.
  • A new Grand Complication movement, Calibre 1991, which took four years to develop

Geneva, April 7th 2021 – A highly technical single-piece edition, the Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch stages sophisticated complications in a manner bearing a unique aesthetic signature. Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre 1991, a new Grand Complication movement
Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100. Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial. In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system. In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Nods to historical master-watchmakers
The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260. This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism. In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Haute Horlogerie finishes
Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial. The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal. The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

“Le Temps Céleste”
Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches
Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions
In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist
Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

————————————————————————————

Sum-up

The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch demonstrates technical mastery of watches featuring extreme astronomic and aesthetic complexity, with the integration on the dial of rotating globes. Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991 stemming from four years of development, this single-piece edition features a completely original perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of dates, days and months. This timepiece also offers a rare three-dimensional representation of the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a full rotation in 24 hours, complete with a day/night indication. The regulation of the movement is based on the same concern for technicality expressed by a double-axis armillary tourbillon whose nested aluminium carriages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This timepiece is presented in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Reference
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre
1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

/by
Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante
, , , ,

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

Technical Features :

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed s

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

 

 

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Swiss brand with Cuban roots, presents a new edition of its classic Historiador Flameante timepiece with a hypnotic salmon dial. Inspired by an original model produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos in the 1950s, the latest Historiador Flameante flaunts an ultra-slim, vintage-style case and an original salmon ‘flameante’ or ‘flaming’ dial, a combination designed to evoke the dynamic tempo of Havana’s Golden Age.

 

Havana in the 1950s was an exotic island playground for socialites and celebrities.  By day, the reputable Cuervo y Sobrinos watch boutique in downtown Havana attracted illustrious visitors like Caruso, Hemingway and Churchill; by night Hollywood stars and jet-setters would flock to Floridita for cocktails and to the Tropicana nightclub until sunrise.  As a brand with authentic Cuban heritage, the watches produced by Cuervo y Sobrinos conjure this atmosphere of luxurious hedonism.

 

Available in stainless steel, the case of the Historiador Flameante has a diameter of 40 mm and an ultra-thin height of just 6.2 mm, a perfectly proportioned dress watch that will glide discreetly under a shirt cuff. The bold jutting lugs, a nod to the tailfins of American cars popular in Havana in the 1950s, are ergonomically designed and extremely comfortable on the wrist. Unobtrusive yet easy to manipulate, the crown sits close to the caseband, and the thin bezel offers a generous panorama of the dial.

 

The swirling guilloché flame motif engraved on the dial reveals the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship. The dancing flames emanating from the centre endow the dial with a fluid, mesmerising spectacle. Evocative of the sunsets over the Bay of Havana, the elegant salmon dial provides a marked contrast with the polished case. Eight silver spear-shaped and faceted markers, along with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and the brand logo at noon, are applied to the surface of the dial providing additional dimension and volume.  Animating the dial at 6 o’clock is the recessed small seconds counter with a snailed interior and the word ‘Flameante’. To consolidate the vintage identity of the watch, a double-curved sapphire crystal protects the dial. Not only is it a historically accurate feature of watches from the 1950s, but it also allows light to flood the dial plane enhancing legibility and showcasing the beautiful pattern. In tune with contemporary standards, the elegant lance-shaped hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips to consult the time in low light conditions.

 

At the heart of the Historiador Flameante is the ultra-thin (2.5 mm) Swiss hand-wound movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal window on the caseback, the finishes pay homage to traditional watchmaking: the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is embellished with circular graining, and there is a profusion of blued screws. The caseback is engraved with ‘Testimony of Style since 1882’, a reference to the foundation of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand.

 

A handsome black Louisiana alligator strap adds the final touch of elegance to the Historiador Flameante.

 

 

Technical Features :

 

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition –

 

 

ee-through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition –

 

 

/by
, , ,

Franck Muller Genève | Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ SCHELETRO

Franck Muller Genève

Vanguard Yachting Anchor™ SKELETON

Ispirato dalla collezione dinamica Vanguard ™, lo scheletro Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ sviluppa una visione creativa del tempo con affermati dettagli nautici. Caratterizzato da tutti i dettagli marinari dal blu intenso alla rosa dei venti che adornano il quadrante, il mondo marino ha ispirato ogni delicato dettaglio di questo orologio appena nato.
I ponti traforati sono stati progettati per accentuare l’architettura dell’orologio e rivelare il movimento interamente fabbricato in casa.
Questo compagno di viaggio è disponibile in oro rosa 18k, giallo e bianco, acciaio inossidabile e bronzo.

   
Con lo scheletro Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™, Franck Muller ha creato la perfetta alchimia tra il movimento meccanico tradizionale e le prestazioni orologiere della riserva di carica di sette giorni.


Un segnatempo sportivo ed elegante ideale per gli amanti del mare, con ponti ispirati alle ancore e un secondo a ore 6 che rappresenta una rosa dei venti.
Un design equilibrato che mostra la passione per l’artigianato e l’arte dei dettagli caratteristici della manifattura Franck Muller.

©2019 Franck Muller GenèveAll rights reserved GFM Watchland SA

www.franckmuller.com

VANGUARD YACHTING ANCHOR™ SKELETON

Lo scheletro di Vanguard Yachting Anchor ™ sviluppa una visione creativa del tempo con dettagli nautici affermati. Caratterizzato da tutti i dettagli marinari dal blu intenso alla rosa dei venti che adornano il quadrante, il mondo marino ha ispirato ogni delicato dettaglio di questo segnatempo appena nato. Un segnatempo sportivo ed elegante ideale per gli amanti del mare, con ponti ispirati alle ancore e un secondo a ore 6 che rappresenta una rosa dei venti.
Riferimento

V 45 S6 PR SQT ANCRE FM YACHT (BL)
Astuccio
Oro rosa 18 carati
Larghezza: 44 mm, Lunghezza: 53,70 mm, Spessore: 12,65 mm
Resistente all’acqua fino a 30 metri
Funzioni
Ore, minuti e secondi a ore 6
Indicatore della riserva di carica
Movimento
FM 1740-VSPR
Movimento meccanico manuale
Larghezza: 37,05 mm, Lunghezza: 40,20 mm, Spessore: 6 mm
Riserva di carica di 7 giorni
18.000 alternanze / ora
175 componenti – 21 rubini
Movimento
decorazione
Smusso a mano, lucidatura a specchio sul fianco, lucidatura della piastra inferiore della modanatura Finitura satinata sulla piastra e sabbiatura sul lato opposto
Finitura satinata e smussatura di tutti i componenti.
Spazzolatura circolare della canna e delle ruote.
Comporre
Movimento traforato con ponti in alluminio anodizzato blu
Finitura in oro rosa 24k sull’indicatore della riserva di carica, lancette e rosa dei venti
Cinghia
Cinturino in nylon cucito a mano

 

© 2019 Franck Muller GenèveTutti i diritti riservati GFM Watchland SA

/by