Reloj de lujo – Roger Dubui Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier “An era of Light Color Begins”

Hiperluminiscente. Hiper-colorido. Superrendimiento: comienza una nueva era de estética deslumbrante con la llegada de la próxima generación de Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier (MB). Una de las expresiones más brillantes de la Maison hasta la fecha, el reloj es una obra de arte contemporánea que es tan vibrante durante el día como bajo la luz ultravioleta. Bienvenido al deslumbrante mundo de Roger Dubuis, donde los campos de posibilidades se reinventan para ofrecer la forma más emocionante de experimentar Hyper HorologyTM.

EL ARTE DE LA LUMINESCENCIA

Siempre superando los límites, los relojeros altamente calificados de la Maison han estado desarrollando y dominando el intrincado arte de la luminiscencia durante años. Porque en Roger Dubuis, menos nunca es más.

Reflejando un nivel inigualable de artesanía, los micro-haces de metal del calibre son tridimensionales por primera vez, tomando la forma de la estrella característica de Roger Dubuis. De color amarillo brillante y naranja durante el día, revelan su luminiscencia oculta y brillan como neón bajo la luz ultravioleta.

Pero el dominio de la luminiscencia por parte de los relojeros va más allá. Manteniendo el punto culminante en el brillo de los micro-rayos, se eligió un diamante hiperprecioso y vívidamente fluorescente para el corazón de la estrella de la firma, canalizando el ojo para admirar el trabajo abierto de la pieza bajo la luz ultravioleta. Para garantizar que el centro de atención permanezca en los microhaces, también se seleccionaron específicamente 60 diamantes no fluorescentes para adornar el bisel. Motivados por una pasión extrema, el look final demuestra su control absoluto sobre dónde aparece la fluorescencia.

LLENO DE COLOR

La Maison presenta una colección cápsula icónica que brilla con colores de moda.

Encarnando un compromiso con la inconformidad y la voluntad de explorar nuevas posibilidades creativas, Roger Dubuis se inspiró para ir más allá de su obsesión por la luz e inyectar colores divertidos en esta próxima generación de Excalibur Blacklight MB.

Entre esta colección cápsula se encuentra un reloj vestido de amarillo brillante realzado con toques de naranja vibrante. Estos aportan un equilibrio armonioso al diseño, rompiendo el efecto de un solo tono y creando un camaieu. Estos tonos vivos también crean su estética distintiva, dejando que los detalles del calibre expresivo se revelen capa por capa, como una intrincada obra de arte que se aprecia cuanto más se mira. Atrevido, atrevido, icónico: este reloj de oro blanco de 42 mm realmente deslumbra, desde su correa de caucho amarillo brillante y piel de becerro hasta sus microrayos, marcadores de hora y minutos y su estrella característica. Si lo desean, los afortunados propietarios pueden incluso optar por cambiar la correa con solo unos pocos clics para expresar un nuevo estilo de su elección, ya que está equipada con un sistema de liberación rápida e hiperversátil. Hipercontemporáneo e hiperemocionante, la última edición del Excalibur Blacklight MB lleva a Hyper HorologyTM a nuevos y brillantes niveles de expresividad.

RENDIMIENTO IMPRESIONANTE

Definiendo el delicado equilibrio entre estética y rendimiento, el reloj está equipado con el calibre RD720SQ, que tiene una mayor reserva de marcha de 72 horas. El micro-rotor y el volante también están optimizados para minimizar las vibraciones, mejorar la estabilidad y hacerlo menos sensible a los golpes. Para lograr una eficiencia y transmisión de energía aún mejores, se mejora la forma de la rueda de escape, se combina con paletas de piedra de silicio recubiertas de diamante y se completa con un nuevo lubricante. La obra maestra está acabada a mano con meticuloso cuidado y recompensada con el Poinçon de Genève, una de las certificaciones más exigentes de la alta relojería.

Limitado a 28 piezas, el Excalibur Blacklight MB es la combinación perfecta de color, luminiscencia y mecánica avanzada, alcanzando nuevos niveles de expresividad. Al compartir su pasión por la luz y la luminiscencia, Roger Dubuis destaca una nueva faceta de Hyper Horology™, una que continúa dando forma al futuro de la alta relojería de la manera más colorida posible.

Hyper e Hyper Horology son marcas comerciales de Roger Dubuis presentadas y/o registradas en la clase 14

Watches and Wonders Geneva | Nearly 40 watchmaking Maisons to exhibit at the physical Salon in 2022

After two entirely digital editions, the key watchmaking industry event is confirmed to take place in Geneva both in a physical format – in the halls of Palexpo – and digitally, via the watchandwonders.com platform. Nearly 40 watch and jewellery brands will gather at this watchmaking summit for the first time over 7 days – from 30 March to 5 April 2022.

The next Watches and Wonders Geneva, which is eagerly awaited after two years of being entirely online, is already shaping up for 2022. More than a trade show, this watchmaking summit will bring together the main industry players, with the arrival of new brands such as Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith from the LVMH Group, Grand Seiko, Oris and the jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels who is making its return to the Salon.

 

Reputed brands such as Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor will also be exhibiting for the first time in Geneva. Not to mention other major Maisons, such as Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin, who have been regulars for many years.

All these players will vibrate to the rhythm of a thrilling watch-industry week and will be showcased in one single setting at Palexpo. The Carré des Horlogers will welcome fifteen independent designer-craftsmen and women at the centre of the exhibition.

A hybrid, flexible concept.

After proving its agility over the last two events, Watches and Wonders Geneva is moving to a hybrid format so that visitors can above all have a face-to-face experience but also participate on line, depending on the changing context of the pandemic.

Everything has been thought through and organised to ensure that the product presentations, new product launches, keynotes, panel discussions and conferences be followed in Geneva by visitors onsite, but also, for those who are unable to travel, remotely, via the www.watchesandwonders.com platform. All the content will be available online, live or in replay.

But nothing can ever replace in-person experience. Industry players have clearly stated their desire to get together around the products. They want their guests to be able to see and touch the exceptional pieces, to discuss, debate and interact on site.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 promises once again to be a great success but also a wonderful reunion. Whether in Geneva or elsewhere in the world, make a date for this leading watchmaking summit, from 30 March to 5 April 2022!

EXHIBITING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER |

CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS | CZAPEK | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

More information at watchesandwonders.com

HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE

The most streamed French artist in the world, with a slew of international hits, DJ Snake is joining forces with Hublot to unveil an exclusive creation: the Big Bang DJ Snake. A watch boasting a myriad of facets, just like the talented artist who inspired it.

“To be able to wear – and also offer my fans – a watch which reflects my personality is something that has been very important to me since the start of my partnership with Hublot. I am delighted to have been able to combine my inspiration with the expertise of the fantastic watchmakers and technicians at this Swiss brand.” – DJ Snake


“DJ Snake turns everything he touches to gold! We are thrilled to have been able to channel his outstanding creativity into this new limited edition piece. The result is truly multifaceted, just like DJ Snake’s talents!” – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

DJ Snake has such a huge presence in today’s musical landscape that he needs no introduction. The electronic music star first came to public attention with the track “Turn Down For What”, released in 2013. Since then, the hits have racked up: “Lean On”, “Loco Contigo”, “Let Me Love You” with Justin Bieber, and “Selfish Love” with Selena Gomez. Diplo, Kanye West, Lil Jon… the collaborations keep on coming! He became the first French artist to have two songs with over a billion plays on Spotify, and the awards have rained down: Billboard Music Awards; MTV Music Awards; and no fewer than three NRJ Music Awards.

Hublot and DJ Snake have been partners since January 1st 2018, when he presided over the decks at Hublot’s closing evening during the FIFA World Cup in Russia.

Three years later, the first watch of this partnership is being unveiled:  The Big Bang DJ Snake.

The instantly recognizable and iconic design of the Big Bang now has an iridescent shine, with countless blue and purple hues. The bezel and the six titanium components of the 45-mm case are treated with a special and technical manufacturing process, similar to a black PVD treatment.  During the process, the different components of the watch must each be placed in specific positions when they are coated with different colors. The result is an optical effect in which the colors of the watch change depending on the light and when viewed from different angles. Not only that, but the surface of the parts was hardened before the iridescent treatment in order to improve its adherence. This operation is a complex one as it is difficult to obtain the same gradation of colour on each of the 100 watches being produced. The cut-outs on the outer edge of the bezel were designed by DJ Snake himself. These notches make the Big Bang DJ Snake immediately recognisable, distinguishing it from other collections. An illustration of the “Art of Fusion” philosophy so dear to Hublot!

On the upper face of the sapphire dial in the same colours as the case, a globe is featured, the signature of the electronic music star. A nod both to his travels across the planet for his concerts and to the fact that his hits have made the world his home. The lower section is skeletonised and treated to create sections with a black fumé finish.

This semi-transparent finish allows a glimpse of the famous calibre HUB1242 UNICO movement, a flyback chronograph with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Big Bang DJ Snake will be supplied with two straps which are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s patented One Click system. The first is made from rubber, with a grey, black and purple camouflage pattern echoing the myriad colours reflected by the watch case. The second, also rubber, has a black ribbed structure. The clasp on these straps also features the same “Newton’s Rings” effect as the case and bezel.

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

Timepiece with four hands • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve • 30° inclined GREUBEL FORSEY balance wheel system

This creation combines fully – and visibly –sport and chronometry. Circular from above, its case reveals the unique arched ovoid shape from other angles, and its slim profile reinforces its dynamic new momentum

The oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. The perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6 mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance. Its 30° angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance and is prominently visible in action thanks to the unique movement architecture

Balancier S

The exceptional chronometry of this creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement’s reliability and chronometric performance at all times

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

ビッグバンインテグラルトゥールビヨンフルサファイア:ピュアサファイア製

たまに少ないほうが多い、おそらくもっと多いというのは事実です。 ビッグバンインテグラルトゥールビヨンフルサファイアで、ウブロはそのアートオブフュージョンを究極の結論に導きました。 サファイアから測定するために作られた新しい一体型ブレスレットとケース:この偉業は、ウブロがサファイアの仕事で獲得した技術的能力と卓越した経験をもう一度確認します。

2021年4月-一部の人にとって、これは自然な展開のように見えるでしょう。 他の人にとっては、それは完全な切断になります。 最終結果はそれぞれ少しです。 ビッグバンインテグラルトゥールビヨンフルサファイアは、長い伝統の成果です。 2016年にルーツを持ち、最初のサファイアウォッチであるビッグバンユニコサファイアです。 この作品で、ウブロは非常に硬い素材を機械加工して開発した経験を翻訳し、卓越した一連のサファイア時計を作成しました。 今日、ウブロはこれらの限界をさらに押し上げています。ケースとブレスレットが統合された最初のビッグバンで、どちらもサファイア製です。 (r)自然な進化と同等の高度な技術的偉業。

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

「このような特別な作品のために、サファイアブリッジを備えた新しい自動トゥールビヨンキャリバーを選びました。その透明度はまばゆいばかりの光景を生み出します。しかし、サファイアケースとブレスレットを統合するという行為は不可能と見なされました。サファイアを完全に習得し、工業化して連続生産で再現可能にします。最初のサファイアケースを実現するのに5年かかり、ブレスレットもほぼ同時に使用しました。サファイアから製造し、それらを統合することが最高です。すべてのHublotチームによって行われた綿密な作業の結果です。私たちは、資料の歴史の中でこの新しい章の最初の行を書いた人であることを誇りに思います。」- Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

時計についての特定の詳細を知っているのは時計職人だけである場合があります。 ケースとブレスレットがすべてサファイアでできているので、すべての秘密が明らかになります。ムーブメントとケースが融合し、すべての側面が見えます。

この新しいビッグバンインテグラルトゥールビヨンフルサファイアのケースは、自動トゥールビヨンムーブメントを収納するために完全に再構築されました。 目標は、目に見えるほとんどすべてのネジを外し、ケースの一般的な形状を確認してサファイアブレスレットと統合し、サファイアブレスレットを収納する新しいケースプロファイルを開発し、ブリッジとメインプレートを再加工して適切にフィットさせることです。妄想。 宇宙に吊るされているのです。 ウブロはまた、光がすべてのコンポーネントを通過できるように、最も単純な表現に縮小されたインサートとアクセサリーを開発しました。 したがって、ケースは37個以上のコンポーネントで構成されており、そのうち5個はサファイアのみで構成されています。
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

 

ブレスレットも複雑な課題でした。165個のコンポーネントのみで構成されており、そのうち22個はサファイアで作られています。 各コンポーネントには独自の工業プロセスがありました。 これらの3分の1は、ケースの透明性と独自の調和をもたらし、流動性と柔軟性を提供するために特別に設計されました。 特に注目すべきは、ウブロが開発したチタンインサートで、ブレスレットの各リンクの両側からはみ出さないように超小型化されています。これは、製造およびおそらく時計製造で初めてのことです。
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

 

ムーブメントに関しては、完全に自社で設計および製造された自作のキャリバーHUB6035が、この作品の心臓部です。 12時位置のマイクロローターと6時位置のトゥールビヨンの完璧なバランスを示し、この新しいビッグバン専用の3つの透明なサフ​​ァイアブリッジも備えています。 コンポーネントは文字通り宇宙に吊るされているように見えます。 各歯車列は、文字盤の側面から入り、反対側のスケルトンムーブメントを通過する光が透過するだけでなく、ビッグバンインテグラルトゥールビヨンフルサファイアの中心部にあらゆる方向から光が初めて入ります。 。 手首にカプセル化された光の断片である、拡散、屈折、反射、ねじれ、回転します。

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

  • A single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.
  • A new Grand Complication movement, Calibre 1991, which took four years to develop

Geneva, April 7th 2021 – A highly technical single-piece edition, the Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch stages sophisticated complications in a manner bearing a unique aesthetic signature. Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre 1991, a new Grand Complication movement
Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100. Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial. In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system. In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Nods to historical master-watchmakers
The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260. This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism. In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Haute Horlogerie finishes
Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial. The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal. The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

“Le Temps Céleste”
Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches
Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions
In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist
Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

————————————————————————————

Sum-up

The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch demonstrates technical mastery of watches featuring extreme astronomic and aesthetic complexity, with the integration on the dial of rotating globes. Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991 stemming from four years of development, this single-piece edition features a completely original perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of dates, days and months. This timepiece also offers a rare three-dimensional representation of the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a full rotation in 24 hours, complete with a day/night indication. The regulation of the movement is based on the same concern for technicality expressed by a double-axis armillary tourbillon whose nested aluminium carriages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This timepiece is presented in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap.


TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Reference
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre
1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

La Grande Maison celebrates an icon, the Reverso, by releasing the most complicated timepiece ever presented in this emblematic collection. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir-faire at Jaeger-LeCoultre with innovative new astronomical indications.

It is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces. By incorporating three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the iconic Reverso cradle (the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle), the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque can predict the next global incidence of astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses — the world’s first wristwatch to provide such a deep reading of the cosmos.

Key Points of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

  • The world’s first watch with four faces; the most complicated Reverso timepiece ever made
  • A total of 11 complications, including perpetual calendar, minute repeater, indications of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles (never before presented together in a wristwatch), requiring 12 patents
  • Combines Jaeger-LeCoultre’s uncontested mastery of chiming watches, precision mechanisms, astronomical complications and ultra-compact watchmaking
  • User-friendly design and construction; the most complicated Reverso is also one of the easiest to wear

Geneva, April 7th, 2021 — With 188 years of relentless innovation and savoir-faire behind it, Jaeger-LeCoultre continually sets new boundaries in the domain of fine mechanical watchmaking. Its Hybris Mechanica series of ground-breaking, ultra-complicated timepieces has established a constellation of stars shining with unparalleled brilliance in the horological heavens. In 2021, the latest addition to this celestial assemblage is a grand oeuvre six years in the making — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, the first watch in the world with four faces of timekeeping indications.

Since the advent of personal timepieces, the quest to build increasingly complicated watches is constrained by the volume of space available to the watchmaker. Having a multitude of complications in a watch is pointless unless they can be legibly and comprehensibly displayed, and the watch can be reasonably worn. Liberated by the unique design of the iconic Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a world’s first: a double-faced case continuously driven by the in-house Calibre 185, and a double-faced cradle with indications synced and updated by the primary movement every day at the stroke of midnight by an ingenious mechanical system proprietary to Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If executed through conventional mechanical means, the 11 complications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque would result in a timepiece far more suited for a desk than a wrist. Thanks to nearly two centuries of expertise and a thoroughly modern approach to innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre tells the story of cosmic and terrestrial time within the confines of a 51mm by 31mm by 15mm case, a story told in four chapters of horological virtuosity.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER ONE: SET THE UNIVERSE

The history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is rooted in the pursuit and attainment of precision. One of the earliest inventions of founder Antoine LeCoultre was the millionometer, the first instrument able to measure the micron. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is an undisputed pioneer and leader in creating exceptional executions of the tourbillon, a mechanism designed to enhance the chronometric performance of a timepiece. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 2 (2008) stunned audiences and won chronometry awards with its multi-axial revolving balance, and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) remains unique in its use of a tourbillon with a high-precision ellipse isometer escapement.

Naturally, the tourbillon is one of the main protagonists of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque). Occupying the 7 o’clock position on the recto face of the case, a flying tourbillon (thus called because the absence of an upper bridge allows it to appear as if it is floating) makes one rotation a minute, continuously varying the position of the balance in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

The balance is the heart of any watch movement, and it is also the key to our measurement of time. As it beats in regular cadences of 4Hz (28,800vph), every eight beats mark the passing of one second. The seconds accumulate into minutes, into hours, days, weeks, months and years. The recto face of the Quadriptyque case, illustrating the uppermost abilities of mechanical horology, shows the indications of a perpetual calendar, a centuries-old mechanism that always displays the correct date despite the irregular number of days each month. It also takes leap years into account, displaying a 29th day in the month of February every four years. Highlighting the precision of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185 construction, the perpetual calendar indications are instantaneous, changing at the stroke of midnight. In addition, the complexities of the Calibre 185 construction required the date to be displayed at the 5 o’clock position on the dial. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, only the perfect legibility of a grande date was considered acceptable for a watch of such prestige, which necessitated the creation of a new system of date display discs in order to accommodate the dimensions of the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. The opening chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) is nothing less than a powerful statement of how la Grande Maison has comprehensively mastered the expression of civil time.

CHAPTER TWO: CHIME THE HEAVENS

There are extremely few watchmaking manufactures that possess in-house expertise in sonnerie wristwatches. There are even fewer that have been making them since 1870, accumulating one and a half centuries of experience and savoir-faire. There exists only one watchmaking manufacture that has over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory — La Grande Maison du Sentier. The verso face of the Quadriptyque case is a virtuoso tour de force of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patrimony as a master and innovator of chiming watches.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

With the slide of a lever located just above the crown, the Quadriptyque unleashes its melody. First, a series of low notes, correlating to the number of hours. Second, an alternating couplet of high and low notes, corresponding to the quarter-hours. And concluding the melody, a succession of high notes, indicating the number of minutes to be added to the elapsed quarters. In concert, the hours-quarters-minutes chime plays the current time in musical code. The striking works of the Reverso Quadriptyque are completely exposed alongside a secondary time display, indicating the same time as the recto dial, but in a jumping-hours and peripheral-minutes format. As the Quadriptyque strikes the time, setting a symphony of springs, cams, hammers and gongs into motion, their acoustic report confirms the visual display of the secondary dial.

Visible through apertures on the movement plate hand-decorated with the guillochage motif known as clous de Paris are elements of the chiming mechanism uniquely associated with the sonnerie expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre. These include the silent chime governor, patented by the manufacture in 1895 to eliminate the buzzing noise created by the older anchor system. More recent in-house innovations showcased in the Quadriptyque are the crystal gongs (first seen in the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre of 2005) that attach the repeater gongs directly to the sapphire crystal to exploit the material’s optimal acoustic properties, the square cross-sectional profile of the gongs themselves that maximise contact and energy transmission between the hammers and gongs (a mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repeating watches since 2006), and the articulated trebuchet hammers (developed for the 2009 Hybris Mechanica Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie) that deliver a clean and strong strike to the gongs. In totality, these innovations allow Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters to produce some of the loudest and clearest chiming wristwatches today.

Debuting in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is a completely novel engineering of the chiming components to create a seamless chime with no pauses in between the hours, quarters and minutes. The conventional minute repeater mechanism utilises special pivoting racks that read the time off a series of cams and then proceed to activate each group of chimed notes in turn. This often results in silent gaps between the groups of chimed notes, especially when there are only hours and minutes to be struck, with no intervening quarters. The Hybris Mechanica Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019) made exceptional strides in chiming know-how by reducing these silent gaps, but the Reverso Quadriptyque has reached the ultimate stage of expertise in this area. By refining and inverting specific steps in this mechanical sequence, the Quadriptyque has succeeded in eliminating these gaps entirely.

The chime of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is an uninterrupted opus of acoustic excellence. It is the sound of innovation at its very apex.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER THREE: UNCOVER THE ORBIT

Before the formal development of time reckoning systems, primitive societies observed celestial phenomena and created powerful myths and stories around the dance of the heavenly orbs above. The earliest astronomers were also mathematicians, and instruments constructed on their formulations were able to mechanically compute the positions of various celestial objects. The interaction between the various orbits of the Sun, Earth and Moon determine the rhythms of life, and watchmaking first evolved as a means to bring order to the world around us. As a watch manufacture with close to two centuries of fine watchmaking expertise, Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered all aspects of time expression, from the quotidian to the esoteric. One of the hallmark complications of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the display of sidereal time, time that is determined with reference to the stars instead of the Sun, first presented in the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication (2010).

This year, for the first time ever in the history of mechanical horology, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites three displays of lunar information — the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle — in a single wristwatch. This unique micromechanical combination of indications, located on the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, allows the determination of eclipse events (both solar and lunar) and rare lunar phenomena such as supermoons.

Occupying the top half of the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Quadriptyque is a massive representation of the phases of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere. A laser-engraved moon is progressively covered and revealed by a mobile blue lacquer disc with gold glitter décor, corresponding to the age of the moon in the synodic cycle. While conventional displays of the moon phase accumulate one day of error after 32.5 months, the moon phase display of the Quadriptyque requires only one adjustment after 1,111 years.

Just below the moon phase display, on the left, is a counter with a three-dimensional micro-sculpted pink-gold sun orbited by a tiny hemispherical moon. This counter shows the draconic cycle, showing when the path of the Moon intersects with the orbit of the Earth around the Sun (known as the ecliptic). Such an intersection takes place twice in each cycle, indicated by the horizontal alignment on the counter of the moon and the sun. At this time, the Moon, Earth and Sun are all on the same plane; however, they may not be aligned. For them to be aligned, a phenomenon known as syzygy, an additional condition must be fulfilled — the Moon must be either in its new or full phase. When that happens, an eclipse event happens on Earth, either a lunar eclipse if the Moon is in its full phase, or a solar eclipse if the Moon is in its new phase. However, the actual visibility of the eclipse is dependent on various factors such as the geographical position of the viewer.

To the right of the draconic cycle counter is a domed representation of the Earth, micro-painted in enamel, with a hemispherical moon in eccentric orbit around it. This counter represents the anomalistic cycle, showing the varying distance between the Earth and Moon. At its apogee, the Moon is at its furthest distance from the Earth and is closest at its perigee. When the Moon is in its full phase near or at the perigee, an event known as a supermoon occurs, in which the Moon can appear to be up to 14 percent larger than usual in the sky.

The display of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycle together in a wristwatch is unprecedented in horology, with the latter two indications protected by patent, making the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 the only watch ever made to provide such depth of information about astronomical phenomena.

The Hybris Mechanica family of timepieces at Jaeger-LeCoultre began with the 2003 Atmos Mystérieuse and has since grown to encompass close to 20 groundbreaking horological creations, including the Master Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1 (2004), the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque (2006), the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019). The word Hybris originates from the Greek “hubris” that refers to the soaring ambition exhibited by the legendary heroes of antiquity. It is a promise made by Jaeger-LeCoultre to continually expand the horizons of watchmaking; a promise that has been dutifully kept for 18 years.

CHAPTER FOUR: REVERSE THE UNIVERSE

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born in 1931, out of the need to protect delicate horological mechanisms amidst the balletic skirmish of hooves and mallets during games of polo. Today, 90 years later, a far older dance is reflected in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque, one that guides our calendrical rhythms according to rules that are as precise and structured as those of the regal equestrian sport.

The original Reverso bore a single time-telling face, with a mobile case that could be turned over within its cradle, revealing a solid caseback. The next generation of the Reverso featured another dial on its caseback, either in a different design to accommodate the wearer’s aesthetic preference (Duetto) or displaying a second time zone (Duoface) to offer additional functionality when travelling. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) represented an evolutionary leap in horological innovation, with a third display positioned on the interior face of the Reverso cradle.

This year, the world’s first wristwatch with four faces premieres in the form of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque), the ultimate expression of the Reverso concept. On the last face of the Quadriptyque, the exterior face of the cradle, a representation of the phases of the Moon in the Southern Hemisphere is shown. Most indications of the moon phase are of the Northern Hemisphere perspective, and the Quadriptyque’s display of the Southern Hemisphere moon phase on its fourth face is the fulfilment of the Reverso’s fundamental dualism. A star-flecked sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient of blue shades forms the backdrop to the pink-gold moon, all of which are created in the Atelier des Métiers Rares® of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The secret to the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque’s four functioning display faces lies in a solution first used in the 2006 Reverso Hybris Mechanca Grande Complication à Triptyque. Every day at midnight, a pin extends out of the main case movement to activate a mechanical corrector in the cradle, which then advances the cradle displays. The mechanism driving the cradle displays is set directly into the cradle itself, without any additional movement plates that would increase the thickness of the watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in ultra-compact watchmaking makes the Quadriptyque, despite its multiple indications and complications, one of the most wearable high-complication watches of our time.

PRESENTING INFINITY

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 comes in an exceptional presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the wearer to quickly and intuitively set all the calendar and astronomical displays of the watch after a period of being unworn.

A two-position crown on the side of the box is used to first set the number of days that have elapsed since the watch was last worn. With the Quadriptyque set within the correction support frame, the box corrector crown can then be extended to its second position and wound to rapidly bring the watch to the current date for all calendar and astronomical indications. There is no risk of overcorrecting the watch or damaging the movement, since the entire process is controlled by the box corrector mechanism.

The latest timepiece in the Hybris Mechanica series took six years of research and development. It was made possible only through the 188 years of innovation and expertise accrued within the workshops of La Grande Maison. With the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, Jaeger-LeCoultre reasserts its position at the apogee of mechanical watchmaking and reaffirms its dedication to expanding the boundaries of horological knowledge.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

Case material: White gold

Case dimensions: 51.2 x 31 mm

Thickness: 15.15 mm

Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185

Functions:

Face 1: Hour – Minute, Tourbillon (indicating the Second), Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Grande Date, Day, Month, Leap Year, Night & Day

Face 2: Jumping Digital Hour, Minute, Minute Repeater (with system avoiding dead time)

Face 3: Northern Hemisphere Moon Phase, Draconic Lunar Cycle (height of the moon), Anomalistic Lunar Cycle (apogee and perigee), Month, Year

Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase

Power reserve: 50 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Strap: Blue alligator

Reference: Q7103420

Limited edition of 10 pieces

ウブロメカ-10時計

時計にインスピレーションを与えた時計:ジュラを拠点とするレペの製造と協力して、ウブロは卓上時計で使用するための有名なMECA-10製造ムーブメントの特大バージョンを製造しました。

2016年1月にウブロがMECA-10ムーブメントを発表したことで、時計愛好家は驚愕しました。 製造業者は手動ムーブメントを再発明し、比類のないパフォーマンスと、メカノ構造システムに触発されたユニークなスタイルを提供しました。 珍しいスケルトン構造により、ムーブメントに魅力的な3次元の奥行きが加わり、ブリッジとケースバックを通してはっきりと見えます。 その並外れた10日間のパワーリザーブは、今ではまともな手動キャリバーに欠かせないものであり、文字盤で読み取ることができるディスクに表示されます。

2020年に、ウブロは特大バージョンでユニークな製品を発表しました。 MECA-10は、10日間のパワーリザーブを含め、元の仕様を完全に維持しながら、置時計で使用するために4倍大きくなっています。

「MECA-10ムーブメントのユニークな機能をより大規模に再現することができました。 このエンジニアリングの偉業は、ウブロとレペの両方のチームの協力のおかげで達成されました。 このようにして、私たちは時計製造の神聖な伝統のための新しいコースを計画しています。 」

Ricardo Guadalupe

CEO OF HUBLOT

MECA-10ムーブメントを拡大するために、ウブロはレペ製造のサービスに参加しました。このジュラを拠点とする会社の世界的に有名な時計製造の専門知識は、コラボレーションの自然な選択となりました。腕時計の設計は時計の作成とは大きく異なるため、ウブロは有名な「ArtofFusion」アプローチを紹介する機会も与えられました。時計学の新しい分野で。この特に印象的な結果は、ウブロとエペのデザイナー、コンストラクター、マスター時計学者の専門知識を組み合わせることによって達成されました。

オリジナルと驚くほど似ているウブロMECA-10クロックは、本質的に、その前身の特大バージョンです。広々とした19.60x 18.10 cmのケースには、2つのバージョンがある貴重なムーブメントが収納されています。 1つ目は、メカノにインスパイアされたアングルと、磨かれたサテン仕上げのスチールと透明なコンポジットのリングが特徴です。 2つ目は黒のPVDで覆われ、歯車列を支える橋も黒でコーティングされています。 3時位置のノッチ付きリューズは、ムーブメントを手動で巻き上げる際のグリップを向上させるためにラバーコーティングされています。

インスピレーションを得た腕時計バージョンと同様に、MECA-10クロックムーブメントは、6時位置のインジケーターに表示される10日間のパワーリザーブを備えています。

ウブロとレペの緊密なコラボレーションの成果であるMECA-10クロックのこれら2つの貴重なエディションは、真の愛好家のために予約された限定版の限定作品です。

技術仕様

参照

DC.MECA10.SD.SP.1123

場合

サテン仕上げとポリッシュ仕上げのブラックPVDスチール

サテン仕上げおよび研磨鋼

直径:134.6 mm

厚さ:69.8 mm

ケースバック

サテン仕上げとポリッシュ仕上げのブラックPVDスチール

サテン仕上げおよび研磨鋼

ベゼル

サテン仕上げとポリッシュ仕上げのブラックPVDスチール

サテン仕上げおよび研磨鋼

ダイヤル

マットブラックスケルトン

白発光のサテン仕上げとサンドブラスト仕上げのスチールハンド

移動

2つのバレルを備えた手巻きスケルトンパワーリザーブムーブメント

黒メッキの橋

ロジウムメッキエスケープメント

6.00のパワーリザーブ表示

周波数:2.5Hz

パワーリザーブ:10日

コンポーネント数:432

宝石:52