Desfile de moda de la colección femenina Otoño Invierno 2023 de GUCCI
GUCCI Fall Winter 2023 Women’s Collection Fashion Show
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BUGATTI and legendary optical designer larry sands launch the first-ever Bugatti eyewear collection
Launched at a prestigious private event at the hotel Principe di Savoia in Milan, Italy, Collection One brings together the essence of the Bugatti brand as the pinnacle in automobile luxury, performance and design with the genius of Larry D. Sands, a freethinking pioneer in the optical fashion space.
The nine-style set comprising of 37 pieces available in different materials – including palladium, 925 sterling silver, carbon fiber and Macassar ebony – melds heritage with modernity, delivering a visual identity that is stimulated by past and present iconic Bugatti design languages but reinterpreted in contemporary optical aesthetic form that embodies the world of tomorrow. Taking inspiration from Ettore Bugatti’s vision – “If comparable, it is no longer Bugatti” – Collection One successfully captures and transfers Bugatti’s core values into exclusive eyewear pieces that are at the vanguard of fashion, creating desirable and luxurious accessories. Such hallmarks can only be envisioned, formed and then fully realized by a true leader in their respected field, which is why Bugatti sought to collaborate with the very best when launching its new eyewear collection.
To state that Larry is a trendsetter in the optical fashion world would be an understatement; his career, spanning over 60 years, is legendary, having helped shape, create and execute an incredibly wide range of eyewear pieces and collections for the leading fashion houses and eyewear brands.
“When I got the call from Bugatti, I was a little surprised, but to be approached by the world’s most powerful and luxurious auto manufacturer, to create their eyewear, was an honor,” he said. “Everything I do is unexpected, and Bugatti Eyewear is some of my most unexpected work yet. Expectation is the enemy of creativity.”
The creative synthesis between Larry and Bugattito create eyewear that stands true to Ettore’s vision took two years to complete. Harnessing the alchemy that can be brought to the fore when two pioneering visionaries work together, Collection One goes beyond current design norms and boundaries.
Materials and manufacturing techniques never seen before in the eyewear industry were developed and employed to create Collection One. Each piece is meticulously crafted in Japan, from solid 925 sterling silver trim with genuine 18k gold and palladium; the most expensive materials in the world.
The use of Positive Vapor Deposition (PVD) – a process in which a solid material is vaporized in a vacuum and deposited onto the surface of the product – is another key breakthrough for the eyewear industry that’s been first successfully employed during the creation of Collection One. The PVD acts as a Diamond Like Coating, a surface that is highly resistant to wear and is also used throughout the development and production of Bugatti automobiles.
The use of carbon fiber and Macassar ebony is another impeccable design iteration that pays homage to Bugatti’s automobiles, as does the use of the famed red enamel Macaron. An intricate custom wirecore, developed in sheets to mirror the timeless grill pattern that adorns each Bugatti hyper sports car’s horseshoe radiator, forms an exquisite fusion of the ‘then’ and ‘now’ on each of the 37 examples.
Wiebke Ståhl, Managing Director of Bugatti International, added: “The decision to partner with such an auspicious, revered and experienced artist as Larry Sands is testament to our shared design ideals and vision for outstanding quality to achieve truly iconic products. Creating this new luxury eyewear is also key to our portfolio as it closes a strategic gap in Bugattis diversified brand lifestyle collection; I couldn’t be more excited to finally launch our new Bugatti Eyewear!”
Collection One was showcased at the MIDO Optical Trade Show on February 4 2023 in Milan, Italy, and will be available in highly exclusive boutiques. Retail prices from $1,295 to $15,000. Further information will be available soon on www.bugattieyewear.com.
More Info: Jean Bugatti
Japan: Courts and Culture: The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace
This exhibition explores British royal encounters with Japan over a period of 350 years.
From samurai armour sent to James I in 1613, to a Coronation gift for HM The Queen in 1953, Japanese treasures have reached the British Court through trade, travel and treaties.
Each object on display reflects materials and techniques particular to Japan. Uniquely, many were commissioned or presented by the Japanese Imperial Family. Together, they reveal the ceremonial, diplomatic and artistic exchange linking the two courts of East and West.
… an exquisite, intricate, truly diverting parade of treasures ★★★★
THE TELEGRAPH
The Royal Collection holds some of the most significant examples of Japanese art and design in the western world. For the first time, highlights from this outstanding collection are brought together to tell the story of 300 years of diplomatic, artistic and cultural exchange between the British and Japanese royal and imperial families. The exhibition includes rare pieces of porcelain and lacquer, samurai armour, embroidered screens and diplomatic gifts from the reigns of James I to Her Majesty The Queen. Together, they offer a unique insight into the worlds of ritual, honour and artistry linking the courts and cultures of Britain and Japan.
Explore the Exhibition
Description
This splendid and understated armour was sent to James I of England by Tokugawa Hidetada, third son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who ruled as the second shōgun of the Tokugawa dynasty from 1605 to 1623. Some sources have suggested that the armour may once have been owned by Takeda Katsuyori (1546 – 82), a daimyō who had fought, and lost, against Tokugawa Ieyasu at the Battle of Tenmokuzan in 1582.
The armour is of the body-wrapped (dōmaru) type, which hinges around the body and fastens on the right. The ‘pumpkin-shaped’ helmet (akodanari kabuto) is signed by Iwai Yozaemon, one of the main armourers to the ruling Tokugawa family. Armours by Iwai Yozaemon in other European royal collections indicate that this was a popular diplomatic gift from the Tokugawa family, easily available from a regular and reliable source.
The helmet has a very wide, almost flat neck guard (shikoro), small turn-backs (fukikaeshi) and visor (mabizashi) decorated in gold lacquer with stylised clouds. The akodanari helmet has prominent vertical rivet lines and is lacquered black. A raised area at the back of the helmet bowl may have been designed to accommodate the chonmage, the samurai hairstyle which consisted of a shaved pate with the hair oiled and tied at the back of the head in a queue. This distinctive form of helmet was extremely popular during the Muromachi period (1392–1573) and the traditional style would have appealed to the Tokugawa family who were conservative in their tastes. The face-mask (sōmen) has a fearsome appearance, although the whiskers have possibly been trimmed over the years.
Much of the armour is laced in red and blue silk in a chequerboard pattern. The lamellae (kozane) are individual pieces of iron lacquered and laced together – a technique known as hon-kozane (‘true’ kozane), which creates a more flexible armour.
Continuing the conservative style, the shoulder guards (sode) are very large for an armour of this period. The solid iron upper areas of the cuirass (dō) are decorated with gold lacquer dragons whose red lacquer tongues chase stylised clouds, possibly symbolising the Buddhist pearl of enlightenment, on a black lacquer ground. The rims (fukurin) and other metal fittings are of engraved and pierced shakudō and gilt-copper alloy. Interestingly, the small fittings to secure the cuirass have a discreet motif of a paulownia (kiri) leaf, an imperial symbol later adopted by the Tokugawa family. The sleeves (kote) are decorated in a similar fashion and have fine, though faded, silk with auspicious motifs and areas of iron mail. The greaves (suneate) are decorated with further stylised clouds in gold lacquer on black.
Text adapted from Japan: Courts and Culture (2020).
Provenance
Sent to James I by Shōgun Tokugawa Hidetada, 1613
This is one of the ‘two varnished armours’ given to Captain John Saris of the East India Company at Edo on 19 September 1613. Saris returned to Plymouth with the gifts in September 1614, but no account of their delivery to James I survives. The pair were almost certainly the first Japanese armours to arrive in Britain. By the mid-seventeenth century, they appear to have been separated, for only one was recorded at the Tower of London in 1660. The present armour was stored in a lacquer box in the Armoury at St James’s Palace, where it was inventoried in 1649–51 by the Commonwealth government for the posthumous sale of Charles I’s possessions. At that time, it was described as an ‘Indian Armor’ and purchased by Major Bas on 23 October 1651 for £10.
Following the Interregnum, the armour was returned to the Royal Collection, but confusion about both pieces’ provenance abounded. The armour at the Tower was for example described in 1662 as a present to Charles II ‘from the Emperor Mougul’, in India. As late as 1916, the present armour was confused with another in the Royal Armouries which had in fact been given to Philip II of Spain in 1585. At that time, it was in reality mounted on the wall of the Grand Vestibule at Windsor Castle, with other Japanese items from the Royal Collection.
Source & Photos: ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST
The new Torsade de Chaumet High Jewellery collection –THE ART OF MOVEMENT
Like a series of snapshots, the new Torsade de Chaumet High Jewellery collection achieves the feat of suspending motion in gold and gemstones. Inspired by the Maison’s long heritage and its naturalistic creations, this collection plays with endless possibilities offered by a dynamic twist.
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION
The first jeweller to open on the legendary Place Vendôme in 1812, Chaumet pays tribute to the origins of the Maison with the Torsade de Chaumet collection. Inspired by the movement of the frieze wrapping the Vendôme column, these creations offer a modern and fresh revisiting of the twist – “torsade” in French – in an ode to movement and life.
INTERLACING DIAMONDS
Whether tightly coiled or loose, winding gracefully or flowing freely, these versatile twists achieve the prowess of freezing the vivacity of a movement in gold and diamond.
From the classic brilliant-cut to the rose-cut, or even the ascher-cut reimagined as a nod to Place Vendôme, these virtuoso creations are true sculptures of light enhanced by multiple sizes of diamonds in an interplay of radiance and relief.
Chaumet’s signature jewel, the Torsade de Chaumet tiara encapsulates the grace of interlacing twists dancing freely around a line of diamonds. A creation which appears to defy gravity and celebrates 200 years of mastery of Chaumet’s High Jewellery atelier.
LIGHT AND COLOURS
Ceylon sapphires, Mozambique rubies, Colombian emeralds… Like a painter, Chaumet punctuates torsades of light with precious touches of colour.
Sources of emotion, the stones have been individually selected for their extraordinary aura. Whether they honour the Chaumet blue or a passionate red, these creations convey the Maison’s emblematic art of colour with grandeur.
CHOPARD
Red Carpet Collection
A jewellery ‘Paradise’
It is a uniquely magical moment, the most glamorous event of the year. For the Cannes Festival, which Chopard has been officially partnering since 1998, the Maison’s workshops annually rise to a new pinnacle of creativity by reinventing the miracle of the Red Carpet Collection.
A stunning demonstration of jewellery-making prowess lighting up a lifelong passion for the cinema and paying tribute to the actresses who embody its radiant energy during the legendary ascent of the staircase. With the opening of the Cannes Festival on 6 July 2021, Chopard’s Co-President and Artistic Director, Caroline Scheufele, is unveiling all 74 creations composing this collection, themed around a fabulous haven of fantasy. Paradise expresses all the dreamy richness of which Caroline Scheufele is capable, flinging wide open the doors to the palaces of the imagination.
Theatre of dreams
Each piece of jewellery stems from an emotion, each culminating from an idea in a creation. Then comes the sketch, the mosaic of precious stones, colours like destinations, and a wild desire to share. For the opening of the Cannes Festival (6 to 17 July) , Caroline Scheufele is unveiling the traditional Red Carpet Collection.. A creative universe whose texture and density unfold in the dazzling landscape of her imagination. Like a director, this keen film-lover orchestrates each of her collections around a real narrative, a master canvas within which her creations come to life and give substance to her vision.
Paradise, a haven of marvels
The Paradise-themed Red Carpet Collection 2021 takes us into a universe dear to the Maison: that of unspoilt, generous and sublime nature. A dreamlike and fertile place, permanently accessible to everyone, free to imagine its contours and to go there to recharge their batteries as they please. A ‘Paradise’ to be found within oneself, according to one’s imagination and desires. A realm of all possibilities.
When instilling a baroque, fanciful spirit into the Collection, Caroline Scheufele drew inspiration from the lush nature of the mythological or real places populating her fantasy repertoire. A bountiful Garden of Eden, where precious stones are picked like berries, where plants and an
imals offer their songs and spectacular colours; a secret landmark, like the island of Pantelleria, where the telluric depth of the volcanic rocks is reflected in the crystalline transparency of the waters where Caroline Scheufele loves to immerse her gaze; or a supernatural, vision of nature resembling that of the fantasy film Avatar, a metaphorical space in which to find refuge, to escape the hostility of reality and to find a new lease on life.
Among the countless references enlivening Caroline Scheufele’s majestic world, the Artistic Director has brilliantly enlisted a whole range of creative resources. She explained: “The Red Carpet Collection always gives me the opportunity to give free rein to my creativity and this year I was inspired by the idea of Paradise: I wanted our creations to invite women on a journey towards a comforting haven, an imaginary world brimming with dreams and optimism.” She continued: “There are various ways of envisaging one’s personal Paradise and I have tried to give life to these multiple worlds within the Red Carpet Collection through creations honouring fauna, flora and the finest gemstones, as well as by designing jewellery that is part of the fantasy of movies.”
“The Red Carpet Collection is a jewellery masterpiece made possible by the skill of all the artisans who pool their talents in our Haute Joaillerie ateliers. Each of these creations is a work of art in itself.
Chopard, sculptor of wonders
Among the Chopard Haute Joaillerie collections, Red Carpet is the one that embodies the ultimate dazzlement, nourished by Caroline Scheufele’s curious and lively view of the world. This collection also highlights the extraordinary work of the Artisans who exercise their skills in Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie’s Geneva workshops, the largest in Switzerland. From design to volume, from goldsmithing to gemsetting craftsmanship, these Artisans combine their talents in giving life to this collection of 74 creations corresponding to the number of years since the Cannes Festival first began.
Each year, the challenge of creating a collection of this magnitude in the same workshop is taken up by the Artisans, who apply their own genius and expertise to each creation. In this respect, the Red Carpet Collection symbolises the quintessence of classic jewellery-making expertise and carefully preserved tradition, nurtured by a fresh eye and a genuine avant-garde spirit. It is in this commitment of heart and mind, expressed through the nobility of hand craftsmanship, that the emotion of this new collection unfolds, impelled by the fertile spirit of fabulous odysseys.
A bold reinvention of the Tiffany T collection, Tiffany T1 celebrates our first connection: the one to ourselves, with a new campaign starring supermodels Vittoria Ceretti, Adut Akech and Freja Beha Erichsen.
Tiffany & Co. introduces new Tiffany T1 collection
The new Tiffany T1 designs reimagine brand’s iconic “T” motif with a distinctive beveled edge, crafted in 18k rose gold and diamonds for maximum sparkle. Tiffany artisans painstakingly set each pavé diamond by hand in a complex honeycomb pattern for incredible radiance, texture and dimension. Tiffany T1 represents individual strength and perpetual power—just like the women who wear it.
“The stones nest into each other evoking a honeycomb pattern. This reduces the amount of metal, allowing for larger diamonds and therefore greater sparkle,” says Reed Krakoff, Chief Artistic Officer of Tiffany & Co.
T1 collection
