Tag Archive for: Jaeger-LeCoultre

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Jaeger-Lecoultre presenta el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

Jaeger-Lecoultre presenta el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

EL PERPETUO MOVIMIENTO DEL SISTEMA SOLAR CAPTADO EN UNA SUBLIME OBJET D’ART

En consonancia con la eterna búsqueda de precisión de Jaeger-LeCoultre, los ingenieros y relojeros de la Manufactura han creado una nueva complicación que reproduce los ciclos reales de la Tierra, el Sol y la Luna más fielmente que nunca, y la han desarrollado específicamente para el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590. El extraordinario mecanismo aporta una dimensión completamente nueva a Atmos, el reloj perpetuo único que funciona en el aire, que muestra, en tres dimensiones y en tiempo real, las posiciones y movimientos relativos de la Tierra, la Luna y el Sol.

Apodado Atmos Tellurium, este es el reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado, superando los límites de la precisión y el diseño, y la complejidad y la belleza arquitectónica de su movimiento inspiraron naturalmente a los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre. Dedicando una amplia gama de sus habilidades artesanales a su decoración, desde la pintura en miniatura y el grabado con láser hasta el trabajo de laca y la incrustación de meteoritos, han elevado el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 para convertirlo en una obra de arte sublime, así como en un cronometraje excepcional. dispositivo.

· Empujando los límites de la precisión y el diseño, el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 es el reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado y requiere más de cuatro años de trabajo de investigación y desarrollo.

· El nuevo Calibre 590 incorpora una complicación que reproduce los ciclos reales de la Tierra, el Sol y la Luna

· Los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre dedicaron una amplia gama de habilidades artesanales a su decoración, transformando un extraordinario dispositivo de cronometraje en una obra de arte sublime

Medir el tiempo a medida que se mueven los planetas

En un principio, gracias al movimiento de las estrellas y los planetas, la humanidad se dio cuenta del paso del tiempo y comenzó a definirlo y medirlo. Los días, con períodos de luz y oscuridad, estaban definidos por una rotación completa de la Tierra sobre su eje; Los años se definían por el tiempo que tardaba el Sol en volver a la misma posición en el cielo, completando un ciclo completo de estaciones.

Durante milenios, los científicos inventaron instrumentos para reproducir estos ciclos y mejorar su comprensión de los fenómenos celestes. Los relojeros comenzaron a medir el tiempo utilizando los valores de los diversos ciclos astronómicos, aunque las unidades del tiempo civil estándar son solo aproximadas, basadas en los valores promedio de los ciclos solar, lunar y sideral. En 1543, Copérnico revolucionó el pensamiento científico con la publicación de su modelo heliocéntrico del sistema solar (primera hipótesis del astrónomo griego antiguo Aristarco de Samos, el modelo había sido descartado durante más de 1500 años a favor de un modelo centrado en la Tierra). El modelo heliocéntrico coloca al Sol, en lugar de a la Tierra, en el centro de nuestro sistema solar y su publicación desencadenó la invención del telurio (también escrito como telurio), un móvil mecánico tridimensional que ilustra las posiciones relativas y los movimientos de la Tierra y la Luna en relación con el Sol. Desde el siglo XVIII en adelante, los elaborados relojes fueron a veces coronados por estos fascinantes mecanismos. El apodo del Calibre 590, ‘Telurio’, es un tributo a esos magníficos relojes.

Inventado en 1928, el Atmos no necesita intervención humana para dar cuerda a su movimiento; una variación de temperatura de tan solo un grado centígrado proporciona energía suficiente para darle cuerda durante 48 horas, lo que le permite funcionar perpetuamente si se mantiene en las condiciones normales del día a día. Debido a que este notable sistema produce solo una pequeña cantidad de energía, unas 40 veces menos energía que la que normalmente ofrece un movimiento de reloj tradicional de 4 Hz, el movimiento Atmos ha sido diseñado para consumir la menor cantidad de energía posible, y el equilibrio tarda un minuto en realizar un movimiento completo. oscilación.

Con el tiempo, los relojeros de Jaeger-LeCoultre han superado el desafío de agregar funciones al mecanismo sin aumentar sustancialmente el consumo de energía. Al hacerlo, han descubierto que las complicaciones que mejor se adaptan a Atmos son las que se basan en ciclos más largos, como las estaciones, los meses y las fases de la luna.

Una nueva complicación y una pantalla cautivadora

El nuevo Calibre 590 se concibió, diseñó y fabricó íntegramente en la Manufactura Jaeger-LeCoultre y se ensambló en el atelier de Atmos, un taller dedicado exclusivamente a Atmos. Compuesto por 443 componentes, con la complicación de telurio completamente integrada en el movimiento, requirió más de cuatro años de investigación y desarrollo; su complejidad técnica y sofisticación, naturalmente, merecen un lugar en la colección Hybris Mechanica de Jaeger-LeCoultre. Además de reproducir con precisión la rotación de la Tierra sobre su propio eje, y las órbitas de la Luna alrededor de la Tierra y de la Tierra alrededor del Sol, el nuevo calibre indica los meses y estaciones correspondientes con un calendario zodiacal.

La esfera del reloj está definida por un anillo periférico formado por dos capas. La capa superior, fija en su lugar, está marcada con una pista de horas y minutos y los nombres de las estaciones; éste oculta un anillo móvil marcado con los meses, que aparecen en una ventanilla a las 6 h. Dentro de este marco hay un disco de cristal de zafiro azul translúcido, grabado con láser con los signos del zodiaco. En el centro de la esfera, el sol está representado por un estallido de rayos de metal dorado pulido.

Cerca del anillo periférico, equilibrado por un contrapeso en forma de cuña, un círculo de meteorito enmarca un disco de zafiro transparente en el que se encuentran una Tierra y una Luna esféricas. La Tierra gira sobre su eje en 24 horas, la duración de un día civil, proporcionando una indicación de día y noche a medida que gira. Al mismo tiempo, la Luna orbita la Tierra en un mes sinódico, girando sobre su propio eje para mostrar sus fases. Definido por un ciclo completo de fases lunares, un mes sinódico medio tiene una duración de 29 días, 12 horas, 44 minutos y 2 segundos. Esta duración media (o promedio) permite la ligera variación causada por la forma elíptica de la órbita de la Luna. El mecanismo del Atmos está tan cerca de este medio que crea solo un día de error en 5.770 años.

Todo este disco de la Tierra y la Luna orbita alrededor del Sol central, haciendo una rotación completa en un año solar (o “tropical”), indicando las estaciones a medida que gira. Los relojeros de Jaeger-LeCoultre han logrado establecer un ciclo de 365,2466 días. Esto está tan cerca del valor de referencia de 365,2425 días que se encuentra en el calendario gregoriano que varía solo un día en 390 años, lo que significa que no necesitará ajustarse hasta el año 2412 (el único ajuste es el cambio estacional).

Totalmente visible desde todos los ángulos, todo el mecanismo parece flotar en el espacio dentro de su gabinete cilíndrico de vidrio. De hecho, está sostenido y unido a la base por una campana de cristal prácticamente invisible, que también encierra el volante anular. Al igual que el cuerpo principal del movimiento, la balanza también parece flotar mientras realiza su baile lento y fascinante. explica Lionel Favre, director de diseño de Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Naturalmente, este extraordinario mecanismo ha inspirado a los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre a dedicar una amplia gama de sus habilidades artesanales a su decoración. La pintura en miniatura agrega detalle y profundidad a la Tierra esférica; el grabado láser evoca la superficie de la Luna; la laca aporta un rico brillo al anillo de la esfera principal; y meteorito – material que literalmente ha caído del espacio – está incrustado en el anillo Tierra-Luna; y la vitrina ha sido pintada a mano con una delicada representación de las constelaciones.

El reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado, el nuevo Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 supera los límites de la precisión y el diseño un paso más allá con un mecanismo perpetuo complementado con un telurio que perpetúa el tiempo hasta casi el infinito. Muestra este notable logro en forma de una verdadera obra de arte.

DETALLES TÉCNICOS

ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590

Dimensiones : 215 mm de diámetro x 253 mm de altura

Calibre : Perpetuo Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 590

Frecuencia : balanza anular con oscilación de 60 segundos

Funciones : horas, minutos, día y noche, mes, fases lunares, calendario zodiacal

Gabinete : vidrio cilíndrico pintado a mano con las constelaciones

Acabados decorativos : incrustaciones de meteorito; grabado; pintura en miniatura; barniz

Referencia : Q5765300 – Edición limitada de 10 piezas

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Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Reverso Tribute minute repeater

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

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Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery – Shining the spotlight on the exceptional gem-setting skills of the atelier des Métiers Rares®

When the Reverso was born in 1931, the feminine appeal of its elegant Art Deco lines became immediately apparent and new versions of the design were soon created, especially for women. Over the decades since then, Jaeger-LeCoultre has continued to explore the Reverso’s feminine side, uniting the codes of fine watchmaking with the decorative crafts.

As a canvas for artistic expression, the double-sided case of the Reverso is unique in watchmaking, providing an opportunity for the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Atelier des Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™ workshop) to unleash their skills in the decorative arts.

For the Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery, La Grande Maison unites the talents of its gem-setters with its mastery of watchmaking complications, bringing a new and exuberantly feminine expression of glamour to the Reverso collection.

Jaeger-LeCoultre featured the cordonnet bracelet (the word means ‘fine braid’) on several women’s watches during the 1930s. This simple black cord – the ‘little black dress’ of watch bracelets – epitomised the refined elegance of the Art Deco period, and perhaps never more so than when paired with the Reverso for the first time, in 1933.

For 2021, the Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery reinterprets this exquisite pairing in radiant style, transforming the simple cord bracelet into a supple braid of gold and diamonds and uniting it with a fully diamond-set Duetto case.

Designed especially for women, the double-sided Duetto offers two dials, each with a different expression of the time. The ingenuity of the movement – the manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 844 – lies in its ability to turn the hands simultaneously in opposite directions on each dial.

The front dial of the Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery is constructed of multiple layers: fine golden Arabic numerals are applied to a white mother-of-pearl base and framed by diamond-set brackets; in the centre, framed by a fine filet of gold, a geometric cut-out reveals a glittering field of pavé-set diamonds. The reverse-side dial offers a rich contrast: set onto a background of onyx, diamond-set golden ‘sunbeams’ radiate out from the centre to form the hour markers.

The entire case and bracelet attachment, the bracelet itself and both dials are fully set with diamonds, while the winding crown is adorned with a reverse-set diamond. (1,104 diamonds for a total of 7.84 carats). For the case, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose the grain-setting technique, whereby the diamonds are held in place by beads of gold so tiny that they are almost invisible, keeping the stones very close together, so that the watch case appears to be encrusted in a solid mass of diamonds.

Conceived as an ode to 21st-Century femininity, the new Reverso One Cordonnet Jewellery attests to the horological savoir-faire, artistic craftsmanship and jewellery-making skills of La Grande Maison, while paying homage to the women who inspire Jaeger-LeCoultre every day.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO ONE CORDONNET JEWELLERY

Case material: pink gold fully set with diamonds

Case dimensions: 36.3 x 18mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 844 – manually wound with 38-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours and minutes (indicating the same time on both dials)

Front dial: Mother-of-pearl, diamonds, applied numerals

Back dial: Onyx, diamond-set indexes

Bracelet: Pink gold fully set with diamonds

Diamonds: 1,104 diamonds for 7.84 carats

Reference: Q3372301

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Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
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Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

La Grande Maison celebrates an icon, the Reverso, by releasing the most complicated timepiece ever presented in this emblematic collection. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir-faire at Jaeger-LeCoultre with innovative new astronomical indications.

It is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces. By incorporating three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the iconic Reverso cradle (the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle), the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque can predict the next global incidence of astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses — the world’s first wristwatch to provide such a deep reading of the cosmos.

Key Points of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

  • The world’s first watch with four faces; the most complicated Reverso timepiece ever made
  • A total of 11 complications, including perpetual calendar, minute repeater, indications of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles (never before presented together in a wristwatch), requiring 12 patents
  • Combines Jaeger-LeCoultre’s uncontested mastery of chiming watches, precision mechanisms, astronomical complications and ultra-compact watchmaking
  • User-friendly design and construction; the most complicated Reverso is also one of the easiest to wear

Geneva, April 7th, 2021 — With 188 years of relentless innovation and savoir-faire behind it, Jaeger-LeCoultre continually sets new boundaries in the domain of fine mechanical watchmaking. Its Hybris Mechanica series of ground-breaking, ultra-complicated timepieces has established a constellation of stars shining with unparalleled brilliance in the horological heavens. In 2021, the latest addition to this celestial assemblage is a grand oeuvre six years in the making — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, the first watch in the world with four faces of timekeeping indications.

Since the advent of personal timepieces, the quest to build increasingly complicated watches is constrained by the volume of space available to the watchmaker. Having a multitude of complications in a watch is pointless unless they can be legibly and comprehensibly displayed, and the watch can be reasonably worn. Liberated by the unique design of the iconic Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a world’s first: a double-faced case continuously driven by the in-house Calibre 185, and a double-faced cradle with indications synced and updated by the primary movement every day at the stroke of midnight by an ingenious mechanical system proprietary to Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If executed through conventional mechanical means, the 11 complications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque would result in a timepiece far more suited for a desk than a wrist. Thanks to nearly two centuries of expertise and a thoroughly modern approach to innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre tells the story of cosmic and terrestrial time within the confines of a 51mm by 31mm by 15mm case, a story told in four chapters of horological virtuosity.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER ONE: SET THE UNIVERSE

The history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is rooted in the pursuit and attainment of precision. One of the earliest inventions of founder Antoine LeCoultre was the millionometer, the first instrument able to measure the micron. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is an undisputed pioneer and leader in creating exceptional executions of the tourbillon, a mechanism designed to enhance the chronometric performance of a timepiece. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 2 (2008) stunned audiences and won chronometry awards with its multi-axial revolving balance, and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) remains unique in its use of a tourbillon with a high-precision ellipse isometer escapement.

Naturally, the tourbillon is one of the main protagonists of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque). Occupying the 7 o’clock position on the recto face of the case, a flying tourbillon (thus called because the absence of an upper bridge allows it to appear as if it is floating) makes one rotation a minute, continuously varying the position of the balance in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

The balance is the heart of any watch movement, and it is also the key to our measurement of time. As it beats in regular cadences of 4Hz (28,800vph), every eight beats mark the passing of one second. The seconds accumulate into minutes, into hours, days, weeks, months and years. The recto face of the Quadriptyque case, illustrating the uppermost abilities of mechanical horology, shows the indications of a perpetual calendar, a centuries-old mechanism that always displays the correct date despite the irregular number of days each month. It also takes leap years into account, displaying a 29th day in the month of February every four years. Highlighting the precision of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185 construction, the perpetual calendar indications are instantaneous, changing at the stroke of midnight. In addition, the complexities of the Calibre 185 construction required the date to be displayed at the 5 o’clock position on the dial. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, only the perfect legibility of a grande date was considered acceptable for a watch of such prestige, which necessitated the creation of a new system of date display discs in order to accommodate the dimensions of the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. The opening chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) is nothing less than a powerful statement of how la Grande Maison has comprehensively mastered the expression of civil time.

CHAPTER TWO: CHIME THE HEAVENS

There are extremely few watchmaking manufactures that possess in-house expertise in sonnerie wristwatches. There are even fewer that have been making them since 1870, accumulating one and a half centuries of experience and savoir-faire. There exists only one watchmaking manufacture that has over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory — La Grande Maison du Sentier. The verso face of the Quadriptyque case is a virtuoso tour de force of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patrimony as a master and innovator of chiming watches.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

With the slide of a lever located just above the crown, the Quadriptyque unleashes its melody. First, a series of low notes, correlating to the number of hours. Second, an alternating couplet of high and low notes, corresponding to the quarter-hours. And concluding the melody, a succession of high notes, indicating the number of minutes to be added to the elapsed quarters. In concert, the hours-quarters-minutes chime plays the current time in musical code. The striking works of the Reverso Quadriptyque are completely exposed alongside a secondary time display, indicating the same time as the recto dial, but in a jumping-hours and peripheral-minutes format. As the Quadriptyque strikes the time, setting a symphony of springs, cams, hammers and gongs into motion, their acoustic report confirms the visual display of the secondary dial.

Visible through apertures on the movement plate hand-decorated with the guillochage motif known as clous de Paris are elements of the chiming mechanism uniquely associated with the sonnerie expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre. These include the silent chime governor, patented by the manufacture in 1895 to eliminate the buzzing noise created by the older anchor system. More recent in-house innovations showcased in the Quadriptyque are the crystal gongs (first seen in the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre of 2005) that attach the repeater gongs directly to the sapphire crystal to exploit the material’s optimal acoustic properties, the square cross-sectional profile of the gongs themselves that maximise contact and energy transmission between the hammers and gongs (a mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repeating watches since 2006), and the articulated trebuchet hammers (developed for the 2009 Hybris Mechanica Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie) that deliver a clean and strong strike to the gongs. In totality, these innovations allow Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters to produce some of the loudest and clearest chiming wristwatches today.

Debuting in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is a completely novel engineering of the chiming components to create a seamless chime with no pauses in between the hours, quarters and minutes. The conventional minute repeater mechanism utilises special pivoting racks that read the time off a series of cams and then proceed to activate each group of chimed notes in turn. This often results in silent gaps between the groups of chimed notes, especially when there are only hours and minutes to be struck, with no intervening quarters. The Hybris Mechanica Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019) made exceptional strides in chiming know-how by reducing these silent gaps, but the Reverso Quadriptyque has reached the ultimate stage of expertise in this area. By refining and inverting specific steps in this mechanical sequence, the Quadriptyque has succeeded in eliminating these gaps entirely.

The chime of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is an uninterrupted opus of acoustic excellence. It is the sound of innovation at its very apex.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER THREE: UNCOVER THE ORBIT

Before the formal development of time reckoning systems, primitive societies observed celestial phenomena and created powerful myths and stories around the dance of the heavenly orbs above. The earliest astronomers were also mathematicians, and instruments constructed on their formulations were able to mechanically compute the positions of various celestial objects. The interaction between the various orbits of the Sun, Earth and Moon determine the rhythms of life, and watchmaking first evolved as a means to bring order to the world around us. As a watch manufacture with close to two centuries of fine watchmaking expertise, Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered all aspects of time expression, from the quotidian to the esoteric. One of the hallmark complications of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the display of sidereal time, time that is determined with reference to the stars instead of the Sun, first presented in the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication (2010).

This year, for the first time ever in the history of mechanical horology, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites three displays of lunar information — the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle — in a single wristwatch. This unique micromechanical combination of indications, located on the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, allows the determination of eclipse events (both solar and lunar) and rare lunar phenomena such as supermoons.

Occupying the top half of the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Quadriptyque is a massive representation of the phases of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere. A laser-engraved moon is progressively covered and revealed by a mobile blue lacquer disc with gold glitter décor, corresponding to the age of the moon in the synodic cycle. While conventional displays of the moon phase accumulate one day of error after 32.5 months, the moon phase display of the Quadriptyque requires only one adjustment after 1,111 years.

Just below the moon phase display, on the left, is a counter with a three-dimensional micro-sculpted pink-gold sun orbited by a tiny hemispherical moon. This counter shows the draconic cycle, showing when the path of the Moon intersects with the orbit of the Earth around the Sun (known as the ecliptic). Such an intersection takes place twice in each cycle, indicated by the horizontal alignment on the counter of the moon and the sun. At this time, the Moon, Earth and Sun are all on the same plane; however, they may not be aligned. For them to be aligned, a phenomenon known as syzygy, an additional condition must be fulfilled — the Moon must be either in its new or full phase. When that happens, an eclipse event happens on Earth, either a lunar eclipse if the Moon is in its full phase, or a solar eclipse if the Moon is in its new phase. However, the actual visibility of the eclipse is dependent on various factors such as the geographical position of the viewer.

To the right of the draconic cycle counter is a domed representation of the Earth, micro-painted in enamel, with a hemispherical moon in eccentric orbit around it. This counter represents the anomalistic cycle, showing the varying distance between the Earth and Moon. At its apogee, the Moon is at its furthest distance from the Earth and is closest at its perigee. When the Moon is in its full phase near or at the perigee, an event known as a supermoon occurs, in which the Moon can appear to be up to 14 percent larger than usual in the sky.

The display of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycle together in a wristwatch is unprecedented in horology, with the latter two indications protected by patent, making the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 the only watch ever made to provide such depth of information about astronomical phenomena.

The Hybris Mechanica family of timepieces at Jaeger-LeCoultre began with the 2003 Atmos Mystérieuse and has since grown to encompass close to 20 groundbreaking horological creations, including the Master Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1 (2004), the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque (2006), the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019). The word Hybris originates from the Greek “hubris” that refers to the soaring ambition exhibited by the legendary heroes of antiquity. It is a promise made by Jaeger-LeCoultre to continually expand the horizons of watchmaking; a promise that has been dutifully kept for 18 years.

CHAPTER FOUR: REVERSE THE UNIVERSE

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born in 1931, out of the need to protect delicate horological mechanisms amidst the balletic skirmish of hooves and mallets during games of polo. Today, 90 years later, a far older dance is reflected in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque, one that guides our calendrical rhythms according to rules that are as precise and structured as those of the regal equestrian sport.

The original Reverso bore a single time-telling face, with a mobile case that could be turned over within its cradle, revealing a solid caseback. The next generation of the Reverso featured another dial on its caseback, either in a different design to accommodate the wearer’s aesthetic preference (Duetto) or displaying a second time zone (Duoface) to offer additional functionality when travelling. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) represented an evolutionary leap in horological innovation, with a third display positioned on the interior face of the Reverso cradle.

This year, the world’s first wristwatch with four faces premieres in the form of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque), the ultimate expression of the Reverso concept. On the last face of the Quadriptyque, the exterior face of the cradle, a representation of the phases of the Moon in the Southern Hemisphere is shown. Most indications of the moon phase are of the Northern Hemisphere perspective, and the Quadriptyque’s display of the Southern Hemisphere moon phase on its fourth face is the fulfilment of the Reverso’s fundamental dualism. A star-flecked sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient of blue shades forms the backdrop to the pink-gold moon, all of which are created in the Atelier des Métiers Rares® of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The secret to the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque’s four functioning display faces lies in a solution first used in the 2006 Reverso Hybris Mechanca Grande Complication à Triptyque. Every day at midnight, a pin extends out of the main case movement to activate a mechanical corrector in the cradle, which then advances the cradle displays. The mechanism driving the cradle displays is set directly into the cradle itself, without any additional movement plates that would increase the thickness of the watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in ultra-compact watchmaking makes the Quadriptyque, despite its multiple indications and complications, one of the most wearable high-complication watches of our time.

PRESENTING INFINITY

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 comes in an exceptional presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the wearer to quickly and intuitively set all the calendar and astronomical displays of the watch after a period of being unworn.

A two-position crown on the side of the box is used to first set the number of days that have elapsed since the watch was last worn. With the Quadriptyque set within the correction support frame, the box corrector crown can then be extended to its second position and wound to rapidly bring the watch to the current date for all calendar and astronomical indications. There is no risk of overcorrecting the watch or damaging the movement, since the entire process is controlled by the box corrector mechanism.

The latest timepiece in the Hybris Mechanica series took six years of research and development. It was made possible only through the 188 years of innovation and expertise accrued within the workshops of La Grande Maison. With the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, Jaeger-LeCoultre reasserts its position at the apogee of mechanical watchmaking and reaffirms its dedication to expanding the boundaries of horological knowledge.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

Case material: White gold

Case dimensions: 51.2 x 31 mm

Thickness: 15.15 mm

Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185

Functions:

Face 1: Hour – Minute, Tourbillon (indicating the Second), Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Grande Date, Day, Month, Leap Year, Night & Day

Face 2: Jumping Digital Hour, Minute, Minute Repeater (with system avoiding dead time)

Face 3: Northern Hemisphere Moon Phase, Draconic Lunar Cycle (height of the moon), Anomalistic Lunar Cycle (apogee and perigee), Month, Year

Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase

Power reserve: 50 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Strap: Blue alligator

Reference: Q7103420

Limited edition of 10 pieces

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Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 78th annual Golden Globe Awards

Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 78th annual Golden Globe Awards

Amanda Seyfried and Nicholas Hoult join the 78th Annual Golden Globe Awards wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre

Friend of the Maison Amanda Seyfried was elegantly wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Feuille in pink gold at the 78th Golden Globe Awards. A precious model that combines the watch and jewelry-making expertise of the Manufacture.

“The Jaeger-LeCoultre jewelry watch is effortless because it pairs well with everything and adds a refined and glamorous touch to my whole ensemble.”

Amanda Seyfried
Friend of the Maison Nicholas Hoult selected the Reverso Classic Large Duoface Small Seconds at the 78th Golden Globe Awards.
“My favourite design is the Reverso Duoface. It can evolve from a daytime watch into an elegant evening timepiece. Perfect for tonight!”
Nicholas Hoult

ABOUT THE 101 FEUILLE

Originally conceived and developed for jewellery watches and introduced in 1929 by La Grande Maison, Calibre 101 revolutionised feminine watchmaking – its minuscule size and baguette shape offering new realms of aesthetic freedom to designers. At 14mm long, less than 5mm wide and weighing barely one gram, the tiny, hand-wound calibre remains the smallest mechanical movement in the world to this day.

The 101 Feuille is adorned with 167 pavé diamonds (10.3 carats), nestled against one another and arranged by hand at the Manufacture’s workshops. On the silvered opaline dial, two discreet Baton hands reflect eternal femininity. And could anything better enhance the union of mechanical perfection and jewellery excellence than pink gold? Sensuous, exquisitely feminine, and timeless, this precious metal is perfectly suited to its new starring role.

 

ABOUT THE REVERSO

In 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a timepiece that was destined to become a classic of 20th-century design: the Reverso. Created to withstand the rigours of polo matches, its sleek, Art Deco lines and unique reversible case make it one of the most immediately pitomizele watches of all time. Through nine decades the Reverso has continually reinvented itself without ever compromising its identity: it has housed more than 50 different calibres, while its blank metal flip side has become a canvas for creative expression, decorated with enamel, engravings or gemstones. Today, 90 years after the Reverso was born, it continues to pitomize the spirit of modernity that inspired its creation.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre announces a new book: Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre announces a new book: Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre announces the publication of a new book, Reverso, launched in collaboration with luxury publisher Assouline. This richly illustrated volume traces the story of one of the world’s most recognizable wristwatches through archive images and original photography, together with an evocative text by noted author historian journalist and horological specialist Nicholas Foulkes.

Born in 1931, at the height of the Art Deco period, the Reverso was created in response to the challenge of designing a wristwatch that could withstand the rigours of polo matches. It captured the essence of the time – a period when the spirit of modernity changed everything, from social mores to architecture, music, sport and every field of design. Epitomizing this spirit with its sleek form and unique reversible case, the Reverso has remained an eternal expression of modernity for 90 years, continually reinventing itself while never compromising its identity. Its blank metal flip side, which began as a purely functional solution, became a canvas for creative expression, decorated with enamel, engravings or gemstones.

As well as tracing the history of the watch and its evolution over the past nine decades – with more than 50 calibres and several hundred dials – the book explores the social milieu and cultural changes that provided the backdrop to the creation of the Reverso and, later, its continued reinvention. It shares the stories of more than a dozen Reverso owners who have personalized their watches in deeply meaningful ways. And it also tells the fascinating story of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s founders, their inventions that have had a profound impact on horological history, and the Maison’s development as an integrated Manufacture with 180 skills brought together under one roof.

 

11 x 14 in – 28 x 35.5 cm | 200 pages | 150 illustrations | Hardcover in a luxury slipcase

ISBN: 9781614289555 | Text by Nicholas Foulkes | Published by Assouline | $195

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February 2021

 

ABOUT THE REVERSO

In 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a timepiece that was destined to become a classic of 20th-century design: the Reverso. Created to withstand the rigours of polo matches, its sleek, Art Deco lines and unique reversible case make it one of the most immediately recognisable watches of all time. Through nine decades the Reverso has continually reinvented itself without ever compromising its identity: it has housed more than 50 different calibres, while its blank metal flip side has become a canvas for creative expression, decorated with enamel, engravings or gemstones. As the Reverso celebrates its 90th anniversary in 2021, it continues to epitomise the spirit of modernity that inspired its creation.

ABOUT ASSOULINE

Founded by Prosper and Martine Assouline in Paris twenty-five years ago, Assouline is the first luxury brand on culture. The brand’s story began with the desire to create a new, contemporary style of book, using the couple’s experienced eye for visually rich stories and compelling narratives.

Guided by their passion for knowledge, culture and travel, the Assoulines have since expanded their vision to fifteen hundred titles in six main collections and have curated some of the world’s most aspirational private libraries. Throughout the last quarter of a century, the brand has established a family of international boutiques in prominent places across the globe, with each location contributing to their vast collection of titles, as well as their personal curations of rare books and objects—creating the perfect cabinets de curiosités.

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Introduction of Polaris Mariner - High-performance diving watches for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection
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Introduction of Polaris Mariner – High-performance diving watches for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection

Introduction of Polaris Mariner – High-performance diving watches for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection

Paying homage to its distinguished diving watch legacy and drawing upon more than a century of expertise in chiming watches, the Grande Maison introduces Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner – adding two new high-performance timepieces to the sporty-elegant Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection.

Thanks to the Manufacture’s expertise in striking movements, the Memovox has become the reference in wristwatch alarm calibres since it was introduced 70 years ago – employed in watches designed for both urban lifestyles and underwater sports.

Back in the fifties, scuba diving was a risky and challenging military activity. The only tool available for diving was the watch, which created a strong demand for professional diving timepieces. In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre responded with a unique solution, a self-winding Memovox movement, which provided an aural warning that it was time to return to the surface. This was followed in 1968 by the Memovox Polaris, with an internal rotating bezel as well as the alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission.

A new generation with a transparent sapphire case-back

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner draws on this diving watch heritage, presenting two new models that unite fully ISO 6425-compliant specifications with the sporty aesthetic of the contemporary Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.

The 42mm cases feature the key design codes of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris cases with their taut lines, glass-box crystals, and dynamic mix of brushed and polished surfaces. In keeping with their purpose as a high-performance diving watches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner cases are water-resistant to 300 metres (30 bar). Furthermore, the crown used to set the notched inner-bezel is screwed-down to avoid any unintentional movement, with the addition of an orange security band to warn divers when it is not fully screwed down.

Distinguished by their rich gradient-blue colour, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner dials also remain true to the contemporary Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris aesthetic, comprising three concentric circles finished in different textures and featuring bold trapezoid-shaped indexes and three Arabic numerals. The central disc of the dials is sunray-brushed, complementing the subtle graining of the middle ring and the opaline finish of the outer ring, which serves as the unidirectional rotating bezel.

The hands, indexes and numerals are filled with SuperLumiNova® to ensure excellent legibility in low light, as required of all diving watches. However, Jaeger-LeCoultre has gone a step further, maximising divers’ safety by using different colours to distinguish the hour and minute hands. The running seconds hand is tipped in orange for daylight visibility, with a central luminescent section to avoid any possibility of confusion with the other hands.

POLARIS MARINER MEMOVOX

Celebrating THE SOUND MAKER™, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox pays direct homage to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first diving watches, with their robust capabilities and distinctive aesthetic. The self-winding movement, Calibre 956, is also a direct descendant of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first automatic alarm watch calibres. Introduced in 2008, it has been comprehensively revised by the Manufacture’s engineers for this latest generation of alarm watches. Previously, Memovox watches had a closed case-back, to which the gong was attached; however, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox has a transparent sapphire case-back, allowing the wearer to watch the hammer in action. This demanded a complete redesign of the striking mechanism, with the gong now attached to the case side. The open-worked heavy metal rotor ensures an unobstructed view of the strike-works, its Côtes de Genève decoration matching the fine finishing on the movement plates. One important element remains unchanged, however: the signature “school bell” sound of the alarm, which lends such charm to the Memovox.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox retains the signature three-crown configuration of the earliest Memovox diving watches. The top crown controls the alarm, turning the central disc of the dial so that the triangular pointer lines up with the desired alarm time; the central crown operates the inner dive bezel and the lowest crown sets the time.

POLARIS MARINER DATE

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date offers the classic diving-watch functions of hours and minutes, with a running time indicator (seconds hand) and unidirectional inner bezel, and the addition of an instantly-jumping date display. The dual-crown configuration is typical of super compressor-type diving watch cases, with the upper crown for operating the inner bezel and the lower one for setting the time and date.

Since Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Calibre 899, its engineers have constantly updated it to incorporate the latest performance-enhancing technology. The new-generation version powering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is fitted with some technical improvements to guarantee a power reserve of 70 hours.

True to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s guiding philosophy of uniting innovation and tradition, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner timepieces pay homage to the Maison’s past, while adding two entirely new high-performance diving watches to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

POLARIS MARINER MEMOVOX

Dimensions: 42mm x 15.63mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 956

Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date, alarm, unidirectional rotating inner bezel

Power reserve: 45 hours

Case and Bracelet: stainless steel

Dial: gradient blue dial, sunrayed, grained and opaline finishes

Case-back: open

Water resistance: 30 bar

Reference: Q9038180

POLARIS MARINER DATE

Dimensions: 42mm x 13.92mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 899

Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date, unidirectional rotating inner bezel

Power reserve: 70 hours

Case and Bracelet: stainless steel

Dial: gradient blue dial, sunrayed, grained and opaline finish

Case-back: open

Water resistance: 30 bar

Reference: Q9068180

Polaris Mariner Memovox – Jaeger-LeCoultre

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On the eve of the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a special Tribute edition in burgundy red

On the eve of the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a special Tribute edition in burgundy red

As the Reverso approaches its 90th anniversary in 2021, Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets one of its most admired models. Issued in a limited edition, with a burgundy-red dial and pink gold case, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano pays tribute to a design of rare longevity.

Created in 1931, at the height of Art Deco period, the Reverso was developed to meet the demands of the newly fashionable ‘sporting gentleman’ – specifically, the polo player. A masterful integration of form and function, with its clean lines and flip-over case, it has become one of the world’s most recognisable watches – an icon, in the true sense of the word.

Soon after its introduction, as the Reverso was adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life, new variations appeared. Even before the Reverso’s first anniversary, coloured dials were introduced, creating a vivid contrast with the case metal and adding a note of exuberance to its streamlined symmetry. This new limited edition recalls that early use of colour, to further enrich the Reverso story.

Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano

Marrying the dual-time zone complication of the Duoface with the purified aesthetic of the Tribute collection, the new timepiece is complemented by an original strap, specially designed and hand-crafted by Casa Fagliano, the world-famous Argentinian maker of polo boots.

Originally developed in 1994, the Duoface offers two contrasting dials, each displaying a different time zone, thanks to the hand-wound Calibre 854A/2. To maintain the perfect integrity of the case design, the second time zone is adjusted by a small slider set into the top case-band and completely invisible except when the case is released from the carriage to be flipped over. A deeply etched sunray pattern on the inner surface of the carriage adds to the visual enjoyment of turning the watch over.

On the front dial, in keeping with the original Reverso design, the hours are marked by straight indexes, doubled at 12. Their faceted shape adds visual depth to the rich burgundy-red of the lacquered surface and echoes the form of the Dauphine hands. The circular track of the small seconds display at six o’clock provides a counterpoint to the linear geometry of the dial and case.

The design of the reverse dial plays on the tension between circles and straight lines, anchored by contrasting decorative finishes. The stippled texture of Clous de Paris guillochage contrasts with the gleaming opaline finish of the central time display and the smaller circle that displays the day-night indication.

Both dial treatments are balanced by the warm tones of the pink gold case which, in turn, is complemented by the two-tone strap. Inspired by the canvas-and-leather boots that it makes for summer polo, Casa Fagliano combined cordovan leather and canvas for the new strap – as always, cutting and stitching every piece by hand.

The Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is a limited edition of 190 pieces, boutique exclusivity.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE FAGLIANO

Dimensions: 47 x 28.3mm x 10.3mm

Calibre: Manually wound mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854A/2; 21,600 vibrations per hour

Functions: Front: Hours, minutes, small seconds. Reverse: Second time zone, 24-hour day/night indicator

Power reserve: 42-hour

Case: 18-carat pink gold

Dial: Front: Burgundy-red lacquer, applied golden hour markers, Dauphine hands. Reverse: Silvered grey and velvety Clous de Paris guillochage, applied golden hour markers, Dauphine hands

Strap: Bi-material cordovan leather and canvas, designed and hand-crafted by Casa Fagliano, pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold

Water resistance: 3 bar

Reference: Q398256J

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Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Master Ultra Thin uniting a moon phase display with a tourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Master Ultra Thin uniting a moon phase display with a tourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin collection epitomises the Manufacture’s philosophy of uniting technical virtuosity with enduring beauty, and in 2020 it is enriched by the new Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon. The new timepiece combines two of horology’s most cherished complications for the first time in the Maison’s long history – a moon phase and a tourbillon, with the addition of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature peripheral ‘jumping’ date. Making its debut in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the new self-winding Calibre 983.

The tourbillon was invented at the dawn of the 19th Century, to counteract the negative impact of gravity on the escapements of pocket watches and thus increase accuracy. However, in the 20th century, as pocket watches were superseded by wrist watches, the tourbillon became largely forgotten. In 1946, as part of its continuous research into timekeeping precision, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a tourbillon movement, Calibre 170. Housed in a pocket watch, it was intended for chronometry trials – and in 1948 won first prize in the Neuchâtel Observatory centennial trials, followed by several more prizes during the 1950s. In 1993 – a time when tourbillon wristwatches were still very rare – Jaeger-LeCoultre produced its first example, a Reverso fitted with the rectangular Calibre 828. Further exploration brought the tourbillon to new horizons, leading to the invention of the first spherical, dual-axis tourbillon in 2004 – the Master Gyrotourbillon 1.

In 2009, the Manufacture introduced the Master Tourbillon with Calibre 978, which won the International Chronometry Prize organised by the Horological Museum of Le Locle, Switzerland. This calibre has been Jaeger-LeCoultre mainstay tourbillon movement ever since, and received a comprehensive update in 2019 featuring new high-end finishes.

For the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers capitalised on the 978 movement to develop the new Calibre 983, with the addition of the moon phase and ‘jumping’ date complications.

The triple moon phase indicator – displaying the age of the moon as well as its phases in both Hemispheres – is also a recent development, having been introduced last year. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the new Calibre 983 offers a power reserve of 45 hours.

Timeless style and a new pink gold alloy

The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is presented in a case made of Le Grand Rose gold. Introduced this year, the new pink gold alloy has a remarkable sheen and depth of colour, and is highly resistant to fading over time. True to the classically elegant design codes of Master Ultra Thin, the case is fully polished, with elongated and bevelled lugs and a fine bezel.

Complementing the warmth of the pink gold, an eggshell-white dial provides a restrained backdrop that places all the emphasis on the moon phase display and tourbillon. Adding to the sense of refinement, the shape of the Dauphine hands is echoed by the elongated arrow-shape of the applied golden indexes. Closer examination reveals different index profiles as the shapes are modified according to their position on the dial, as well as several key details marked in red, to increase legibility and add a discreet touch of colour.

Original and intriguing displays

Set in the upper half of the dial, the astronomical complication displays the Northern Hemisphere moon phases in the traditional way – a deep blue sky scattered with stars provides the background for a polished golden disc. Surrounding this is a ring with applied Southern Hemisphere moon phases on the left and the Age of the Moon on the right, each indicated by a double-ended hand.

For the peripheral date display the Manufacture’s engineers chose Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature ‘jumping’ complication. Every month, the date hand makes 90-degree jump, gliding rapidly from the 15th to the 16th, in order not to obscure the tourbillon.

The lower half of the dial is dominated by the tourbillon. A newly designed bridge in polished pink gold secures the titanium tourbillon cage (which weighs around 0.3 grams with its components) as it completes one revolution every 60 seconds. The fine tourbillon bridge and wide aperture maximise transparency and light, drawing the eye right through the mechanism.

On the reverse side, the long span of the open-worked tourbillon bridge further enhances this transparency, while its Côtes de Genève decoration complements the sunray pattern of the stripes on the main plate. The open-worked pink gold winding rotor, which features the JL logo and a combination of polished and micro-blasted surfaces, allows a clear view of the movement, with additional fine finishes including blue screws, circular graining and chamfered bridges.

Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon carries an eight-year warranty in addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification – one of the watch industry’s most stringent testing protocols.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Dimensions: 41.5mm x 12.10mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 983, 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, peripheral ‘jumping’ date (from the 15th to the 16th), tourbillon, moon phases in both Hemispheres and age-of-moon indicator

Power reserve: 45 hours

Case: Le Grand Rose gold

Dial: eggshell with applied indexes and Dauphine hands

Case-back: open

Water resistance: 5 bar

Reference: Q1692410

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Jaeger-LeCoultre announces The Sound Maker exhibition in Chengdu, China
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Jaeger-LeCoultre announces The Sound Maker exhibition in Chengdu, China

JAEGER-LECOULTRE ANNOUNCES THE SOUND MAKER EXHIBITION IN CHENGDU, CHINA
UNVEILING A NEWLY COMMISSIONED WORK BY RENOWNED SWISS ARTIST, ZIMOUN, AND EXPLORING A RICH HERITAGE OF CHIMING WATCHES

THE SOUND MAKER exhibition, a highlight of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s year-long celebration of the art of sound in watchmaking, will be inaugurated at Guangdong Hall, Chengdu, starting from November 10th. The exhibition will immerse visitors in the creative and cultural universe of Jaeger-LeCoultre, exploring the uniquely rich heritage – past, present and future – of chiming watches at La Grande Maison, and paying homage to its home in the Vallée de Joux, where the sounds of nature still provide the backdrop to daily life.

A New Art Commission Makes Its World Debut

At the heart of the exhibition, expanding the dialogue that exists between horology and art, a new ‘sound sculpture’ installation commissioned by Jaeger-LeCoultre from the Swiss contemporary artist, Zimoun, will be unveiled for the first time. After its debut in China, the installation will be exhibited around the world during 2021.
In this new work, Zimoun encapsulates the universe of sound – within the Manufacture and in the natural world around it – that is so intrinsic to the spirit of Jaeger-LeCoultre. He employs simple raw materials and repurposed industrial components, including watch parts – and, in doing so, redefines traditional ideas of sculpture, movement and sound, drawing the audience into an almost transcendent world of sensory experience.


“I first got hooked by the sound, like the soft, appeasing sound of the rain,” says Catherine Rénier, Chief Executive Officer of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “As you get closer, the movement of the metal is mesmerizing. Each angle gives a different feeling and invites you to stop, enjoy and listen.”


In the ability to conjure romance from mundane materials and to create evocative sounds through complex systems of structure and mechanics, there are clear parallels between the work of the artist and the watchmakers of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Just as the components of a watch movement seem to take on a life of their own when assembled, the industrially-produced elements that Zimoun combines into his sculptures seem to develop their own behaviour, producing new and unique sounds and visual effects.
When commissioning the new work, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited the artist to spend time in the Vallée de Joux, where he was able to absorb the valley’s natural sounds, and also spend time with the specialists who work on chiming watches within the Manufacture. The fruit of that rich exchange of culture and ideas, Zimoun’s new installation creates a unique aural signature for Jaeger-LeCoultre, evoking the sounds of nature and of the Manufacture, as well as capturing the rippling of light on the surface of the lake seen from the watchmaking ateliers.
The Story of Sound at Jaeger-LeCoultre


THE SOUND MAKER exhibition leads visitors on a journey through Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rich patrimony, celebrating the twin values of tradition and innovation that have guided it throughout its 187-year history. Featuring rare or unique timepieces curated from both historic and contemporary collections, as well as never-previously exhibited documents and artefacts, it traces the evolution of chiming watches from the Maison’s origins to the new 2020 models, and from the most refined minute repeaters and complex sonneries to the highly practical and much-loved Memovox alarm watch.

The journey begins with a retrospective of the earliest and most historically significant of the LeCoultre chiming masterworks – some of which have never been displayed to the public before; it highlights technical inventions and patents that have contributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s worldwide renown – and to its status as “the watchmakers’ watchmaker” among other great Maisons that it supplied with movements; it reveals the inner secrets of how chiming watches work; and it honours the skill of the artisans who employed their rare crafts to embellish the most precious timepieces.


Paying tribute to La Grande Maison’s home in the Vallée de Joux, the exhibition also features a captivating 8D video installation that immerses visitors in the natural soundscape of the valley and evokes the watchmakers’ deep connections to their peaceful surroundings.
THE SOUND MAKER exhibition will be presented from November 10th until November 22nd, at Guangdong Hall, Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li Chengdu, China.

ABOUT THE SOUND MAKER
In 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates THE SOUND MAKER, paying homage to the sounds of nature that form a backdrop to daily life in the Vallée de Joux, and to its great legacy of chiming timepieces, expressing a century and a half of accumulated expertise in fresh new ways. During the 150 years since the Manufacture developed its first minute repeater in 1870, chiming watches have been a particular forte, with 200 calibres demonstrating its mastery of all forms, from relatively simple alarms to highly complex sonneries and repeaters. In parallel, the Manufacture’s engineers and designers have patented numerous innovations that redefine the benchmark for acoustic quality and beauty.

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