Tag Archive for: Limited Edition

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Searching for inspiration in the most unexpected places is in Roger Dubuis’ DNA. This includes uniting with world-famous urban culture artists who share its values to break the rules, showcase radical expertise, and obsess daily over the design of the future.

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Continuing on a journey to create boundary-breaking masterpieces, Roger Dubuis is proud to introduce the third timepiece from its Urban Culture Tribe with the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier (MB).

Pioneer in his art, the world-famous Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama has been inspiring his peers for decades. By inventing his super-realist feminine “Sexy Robots”, he broke conventions and shook traditions. His talent has been rewarded by multiple awards and his genius led him to work with the biggest names across high fashion, technology, and music. Knowing he chooses to pursue opportunities that force him to push the boundaries of his art, Roger Dubuis invited him to the Manufacture to take on the creative challenge: to reinterpret the Maison’s astral signature.

Embracing this opportunity to infuse his realistic and expressive signature design, the innovative artist co-created a timepiece that merges one radical world with another. Hyper performing, hyper inspiring, and hyper hypnotic, the result is modern art for the wrist.

HYPNOTIC ART FOR THE WRIST

Never one to shy away from a challenge, Roger Dubuis made the decision to recraft and reshape its own work of art – the Excalibur Monobalancier – earlier this year. Clean cut lines on both case and movement create a heightened sense of depth, while the signature star now levitates freely above the barrel. An evolution that not only raises the timepiece to an even higher standard, but also makes it an exciting and versatile canvas for Sorayama to express himself.

Reinterpreting the Excalibur MB with hyper expressivity and sophistication, the artist chose to be provocative by breaking the Maison’s design codes. Curvy lines and a full shine finish blur the sharp design and contrasted finishes Roger Dubuis usually signs its masterpieces with. Sorayama borrowed further cues from his own iconic creations by echoing his 3D sculptures within the polished titanium finish. This striking aesthetics required the Maison’s hyper-skilled watchmakers to develop unusual processes to replicate the desired shiny effect. A first for the Maison and highly challenging task especially when it came to polish fully the titanium case and bracelet. Determined to bring even more play with light to the timepiece, Sorayama also reimagined Roger Dubuis’ micro-rotor to create a hypnotising moiré optical illusion triggered by the natural fluid movements of the wearer’s wrist. This captivating and endless rippling effect – another first for both the artist and Maison – required months of in-house prototyping seeking for the right combination of materials, decorations and finishes. The final execution associates an extremely precise and optimal distance between each line of the stamped décor, with a traditional three-hour long guilloché technique on specific parts of the micro-rotor and an innovative assembly process placing a stamped sapphire dial above the reimagined micro-rotor.

As described by Sorayama, the result is the optimal harmony of two artists coming together: “The Excalibur Sorayama MB is a perfect blend of two worlds, with Roger Dubuis’ and my signature both recognisable at first sight. I’m thrilled we were able to bring such a hyper expressive timepiece to life. By pushing our limits, we’ve created a distinctive moiré and a singular masterpiece.”

HYPER MECHANICS MADE FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE

As artistically inspiring as technically impressive, the Excalibur Sorayama MB houses an automatic calibre recently enhanced with a series of mechanical and aesthetic improvements.

Motivated by a desire for hyper performance, Roger Dubuis’ engineers increased the power reserve of the RD720SQ to 72 hours. They also optimised the micro-rotor to minimise vibrations and doubled the balance wheel inertia to improve stability and make it less sensitive to shocks. Better efficiency and energy transmission was further increased through the use of a new lube and by optimising the shape of the escapement wheel, pairing it with adjustable pallet-stones, and constructing both elements from diamond-coated silicon.

Such high standards of horological mastery and craftsmanship are rewarded with the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

The hyper sophisticated masterpiece is also the first Roger Dubuis titanium grade 5 bracelet to feature its Quick Release System for ease and versatility. Housed in a 42 mm case crafted from titanium grade 5 as well, this exclusive artwork is limited to just 28 pieces and at first available in Japan only.

Together with its friends, the Maison shows what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed. In bringing a visionary artist together with incredible watchmakers, Roger Dubuis proves once again it is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology™.

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Ready, set, go: Roger Dubuis roars across the starting line to reveal the Maison is now the official timing partner of the 2022 Goodwood Festival of Speed. The new collaboration is set to whip up pleasure-seeking visitors with a series of unforgettable thrills and emotions.

The hyper watchmaker already boasts two renowned partnerships within the motorsport’s universe, creating adrenaline-charged masterpieces with racing legend Lamborghini Squadra Corse and premium tyre expert Pirelli. Welcoming another partner to the fold with the Goodwood Festival of Speed is a natural next step. In honour of the new collaboration, Roger Dubuis is proud to unveil the Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier (MB). Born to race, the new timepiece boasts an expressive blend of hyper materials and hyper mechanics.

THRILLING MECHANICS, RAGING PERFORMANCE

The new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB reflects the DNA of Lamborghini Squadra Corse combined with the horological excellence of the Maison. Powered by an automatic RD630 calibre, the 45-mm diameter Excalibur Spider Huracán channels the same exhilarating performance as its motoring namesake. Strong visual cues are inspired from the Huracán GT3 EVO2, including the honeycomb motif made famous by the supercar, with its hexagonal dashboard paralleled in the shape of the calibre. Built like an engine, the calibre’s twin barrels and 12° tilted balance wheel also represent the movement signature associated with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. When viewed from the back, the skeletonised movement reveals the 360° oscillating rim weight. This reproduces the like-for-like speed effect of a Huracán wheel rim, as well as emulating its design. Finally, a crown inspired by the supercar’s racing nuts is paired with an upper calibre strut-bar bridge design reminiscent of those found on the V10 engine itself. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

HYPER-TECH MATERIALS MEET INSPIRING RACING CODES

Both Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse compulsively seek out hyper-tech materials to fulfil their obsession with shaping the future. Just as Lamborghini Squadra Corse chooses carbon fibre for its racing cars, Roger Dubuis crafts the new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB case, bezel, and crown from pure white Mineral Composite Fibre (MCF). Exclusively developed in-house, this hyper-tech material illustrates the Maison’s technical mastery. The 100% integrated Manufacture found that engineering silica via a Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) process could produce a material 13% lighter than SMC carbon. Not only does this lightness make it extremely comfortable to wear on the wrist, it also enables the creation of intricate designs thanks to a sturdy structure. Always seeking out the most expressive aesthetics, the pure white MCF is further elevated with embellishments in striking green, intense red and electrifying yellow to honour the design of the Huracán GT3 EVO. The same shades are also found on the white rubber strap, which features green calf leather perforated with tiny holes to reveal the red beneath. Intricate stitching in red adds to the audacious look, while a Quick Release System ensures ultimate versatility. As exclusive as the Festival of Speed Driver’s Club, the Excalibur Spider Huracán MB is reserved for a select tribe only and therefore limited to 88 pieces.

Join us to discover the Maison’s latest roaring creation and explore iconic timepieces at the Roger Dubuis booth at Goodwood Festival of Speed from June 23rd to June 26th. Adrenaline-seekers beware: This is going to be an epic weekend.

HUBLOT LOVES ASPEN SNOWMASS

Hublot takes on the (Black) Diamond and pays tribute to 75 years of Aspen Snowmass with the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition

Aspen Snowmass is an enigma. A destination steeped in history and community, it also moves with speed and draws visitors the world over. It is hard to make time stand still in America’s most iconic and adventurous mountain town, but that’s exactly what Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot and Aspen Snowmass have achieved today.

In honor of the 75th Anniversary of Aspen Snowmass, Hublot: The Official Resort Partner and Official Timekeeper of Aspen Snowmass, has kicked off the resort’s auspicious 75th anniversary (taking place in January 2022) ahead of time, by launching a limited-edition commemorative timepiece to celebrate the Diamond Anniversary (that is fondly termed “The Black Diamond Anniversary” in acknowledgement of the mountain’s famed downhill terrain).

Aspen Snowmass – home to four mountains, two towns and one unforgettable experience at the confluence of nature, culture, and recreation – and Hublot – renowned for The Art of Fusion, have combined forces to design a piece that speaks to the DNA of both the mountain and the Swiss luxury Maison.

Designed in artful collaboration, the alpine-white skeletonized timepiece takes on the iconic Hublot Classic Fusion model. This limited edition of 30 pieces made of black ceramic with a white ceramic bezel features the Aspen tree leaf on the second hand and high shine brilliant titanium, a homage to the silver mining heritage of the Rockies and Aspen township. The limitation is stamped on the back of the timepiece along with the 75-year commemorative logo: the piece is a true collector’s item for 30 lucky few.

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

  • Inspired by the Chinese Jade culture, the Traditionnelle tourbillon model is dedicated to China market, numbered and engraved in 30-piece limited edition.
  • A limited edition entirely dressed in Imperial Green, a color that represents the purest and highest grade of green jadeite.
  • Featuring the ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement, calibre 2160/1.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Geneva, November 29th, 2021 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Vacheron Constantin presents a high complication limited-edition timepiece, exclusive to the China market.

A Gentleman of Jade

“A gentleman of jade” is a well-known phrase since ancient China to describe a man with noble character. The Chinese believe that a real gentleman is elegant and dignified just as the Jade, which gives inspiration to the creation of the first high complication wristwatch specially designed for the China market. Considered as a mirror of Chinese civilization, Jade has been a treasure of Chinese tradition for thousands of years. This gemstone has been a symbol of high morality throughout Chinese history.

“Imperial Green”

The color of green is described in Chinese poetry as gentle, soothing, and full of vigour and energy. Living in a green environment or adding touches of green to your surroundings can surprisingly bring sophistication, tranquillity and vitality to life.

The well-known Hongshan (Green) Jade Dragon from the Neolithic Period – the earliest known jade dragon carving in China – defines the imperial nature of Green jade carvings. In modern times, jadeite, a harder form of jade known by Chinese, is greatly appreciated for its gentle, translucent, luxurious, but not overstated color.

A jade’s quality is largely determined by the purity of its color. Imperial green, the color that Vacheron Constantin’s first high complication China Limited Edition wristwatch is dressed in, is known to represent the purest and most sophisticated shade of green jadeite, and has a sharp boldness while retaining being understated and warm.

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Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

This Traditionnelle tourbillon watch features an elegant 41 mm-diameter case in 18K 5N pink gold which houses a self-winding movement developed by Vacheron Constantin.

In addition to the refinement of its openworked tourbillon carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, the emblem of the Manufacture and entirely hand chamfered and finished, Caliber 2160 is distinguished by its incredible slimness: this ultra-thin 188-part movement endowed with an approximately 80-hour power reserve measures just 5.65 mm thick. Its relatively sedate frequency (2.5 Hz), along with its 22K gold sandblasted peripheral oscillating weight, provide a chance to admire the steady beating of its mechanism and the exceptional level of traditional Côtes de Genève finishing visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The new Traditionnelle tourbillon China Limited Edition timepiece displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon, framed by an Imperial green-toned dial graced with gold hour-markers and bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands.

As an old Chinese saying goes, like the Jade, those who accomplish great things are modest about their capabilities. As the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition honors and interprets a Gentleman of Jade.

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Summary

Technical refinement meets aesthetic elegance in this model imbued with exquisite masculinity. It represents the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details. Faithful to the origins of Vacheron Constantin and dedicated to Chinese clients enamored of beautifully crafted watches that are both understated and distinguished. Issued in a 30-piece limited series exclusively for Mainland China, it asserts the style in the accordant shades of green: from the elegant Imperial green-toned sunburst finishing dial to the Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with 18K 5N pink gold buckle. Powered by the in-house self-winding Calibre 2160/1, this Traditionnelle tourbillon watch displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Reference 6000T/000R-B972

Calibre
2160/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.4 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Imperial Green, sunburst finishing
18K 5N pink applied hour-markers and Maltese cross

Strap
Imperial Green Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Limited edition of 30 pieces, individually numbered

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre unfolds infinity in four chapters with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

La Grande Maison celebrates an icon, the Reverso, by releasing the most complicated timepiece ever presented in this emblematic collection. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir-faire at Jaeger-LeCoultre with innovative new astronomical indications.

It is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces. By incorporating three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the iconic Reverso cradle (the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle), the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque can predict the next global incidence of astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses — the world’s first wristwatch to provide such a deep reading of the cosmos.

Key Points of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

  • The world’s first watch with four faces; the most complicated Reverso timepiece ever made
  • A total of 11 complications, including perpetual calendar, minute repeater, indications of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles (never before presented together in a wristwatch), requiring 12 patents
  • Combines Jaeger-LeCoultre’s uncontested mastery of chiming watches, precision mechanisms, astronomical complications and ultra-compact watchmaking
  • User-friendly design and construction; the most complicated Reverso is also one of the easiest to wear

Geneva, April 7th, 2021 — With 188 years of relentless innovation and savoir-faire behind it, Jaeger-LeCoultre continually sets new boundaries in the domain of fine mechanical watchmaking. Its Hybris Mechanica series of ground-breaking, ultra-complicated timepieces has established a constellation of stars shining with unparalleled brilliance in the horological heavens. In 2021, the latest addition to this celestial assemblage is a grand oeuvre six years in the making — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, the first watch in the world with four faces of timekeeping indications.

Since the advent of personal timepieces, the quest to build increasingly complicated watches is constrained by the volume of space available to the watchmaker. Having a multitude of complications in a watch is pointless unless they can be legibly and comprehensibly displayed, and the watch can be reasonably worn. Liberated by the unique design of the iconic Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a world’s first: a double-faced case continuously driven by the in-house Calibre 185, and a double-faced cradle with indications synced and updated by the primary movement every day at the stroke of midnight by an ingenious mechanical system proprietary to Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If executed through conventional mechanical means, the 11 complications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque would result in a timepiece far more suited for a desk than a wrist. Thanks to nearly two centuries of expertise and a thoroughly modern approach to innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre tells the story of cosmic and terrestrial time within the confines of a 51mm by 31mm by 15mm case, a story told in four chapters of horological virtuosity.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER ONE: SET THE UNIVERSE

The history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is rooted in the pursuit and attainment of precision. One of the earliest inventions of founder Antoine LeCoultre was the millionometer, the first instrument able to measure the micron. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is an undisputed pioneer and leader in creating exceptional executions of the tourbillon, a mechanism designed to enhance the chronometric performance of a timepiece. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 2 (2008) stunned audiences and won chronometry awards with its multi-axial revolving balance, and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) remains unique in its use of a tourbillon with a high-precision ellipse isometer escapement.

Naturally, the tourbillon is one of the main protagonists of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque). Occupying the 7 o’clock position on the recto face of the case, a flying tourbillon (thus called because the absence of an upper bridge allows it to appear as if it is floating) makes one rotation a minute, continuously varying the position of the balance in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

The balance is the heart of any watch movement, and it is also the key to our measurement of time. As it beats in regular cadences of 4Hz (28,800vph), every eight beats mark the passing of one second. The seconds accumulate into minutes, into hours, days, weeks, months and years. The recto face of the Quadriptyque case, illustrating the uppermost abilities of mechanical horology, shows the indications of a perpetual calendar, a centuries-old mechanism that always displays the correct date despite the irregular number of days each month. It also takes leap years into account, displaying a 29th day in the month of February every four years. Highlighting the precision of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185 construction, the perpetual calendar indications are instantaneous, changing at the stroke of midnight. In addition, the complexities of the Calibre 185 construction required the date to be displayed at the 5 o’clock position on the dial. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, only the perfect legibility of a grande date was considered acceptable for a watch of such prestige, which necessitated the creation of a new system of date display discs in order to accommodate the dimensions of the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. The opening chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) is nothing less than a powerful statement of how la Grande Maison has comprehensively mastered the expression of civil time.

CHAPTER TWO: CHIME THE HEAVENS

There are extremely few watchmaking manufactures that possess in-house expertise in sonnerie wristwatches. There are even fewer that have been making them since 1870, accumulating one and a half centuries of experience and savoir-faire. There exists only one watchmaking manufacture that has over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory — La Grande Maison du Sentier. The verso face of the Quadriptyque case is a virtuoso tour de force of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patrimony as a master and innovator of chiming watches.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

With the slide of a lever located just above the crown, the Quadriptyque unleashes its melody. First, a series of low notes, correlating to the number of hours. Second, an alternating couplet of high and low notes, corresponding to the quarter-hours. And concluding the melody, a succession of high notes, indicating the number of minutes to be added to the elapsed quarters. In concert, the hours-quarters-minutes chime plays the current time in musical code. The striking works of the Reverso Quadriptyque are completely exposed alongside a secondary time display, indicating the same time as the recto dial, but in a jumping-hours and peripheral-minutes format. As the Quadriptyque strikes the time, setting a symphony of springs, cams, hammers and gongs into motion, their acoustic report confirms the visual display of the secondary dial.

Visible through apertures on the movement plate hand-decorated with the guillochage motif known as clous de Paris are elements of the chiming mechanism uniquely associated with the sonnerie expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre. These include the silent chime governor, patented by the manufacture in 1895 to eliminate the buzzing noise created by the older anchor system. More recent in-house innovations showcased in the Quadriptyque are the crystal gongs (first seen in the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre of 2005) that attach the repeater gongs directly to the sapphire crystal to exploit the material’s optimal acoustic properties, the square cross-sectional profile of the gongs themselves that maximise contact and energy transmission between the hammers and gongs (a mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repeating watches since 2006), and the articulated trebuchet hammers (developed for the 2009 Hybris Mechanica Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie) that deliver a clean and strong strike to the gongs. In totality, these innovations allow Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters to produce some of the loudest and clearest chiming wristwatches today.

Debuting in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is a completely novel engineering of the chiming components to create a seamless chime with no pauses in between the hours, quarters and minutes. The conventional minute repeater mechanism utilises special pivoting racks that read the time off a series of cams and then proceed to activate each group of chimed notes in turn. This often results in silent gaps between the groups of chimed notes, especially when there are only hours and minutes to be struck, with no intervening quarters. The Hybris Mechanica Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019) made exceptional strides in chiming know-how by reducing these silent gaps, but the Reverso Quadriptyque has reached the ultimate stage of expertise in this area. By refining and inverting specific steps in this mechanical sequence, the Quadriptyque has succeeded in eliminating these gaps entirely.

The chime of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is an uninterrupted opus of acoustic excellence. It is the sound of innovation at its very apex.

Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

CHAPTER THREE: UNCOVER THE ORBIT

Before the formal development of time reckoning systems, primitive societies observed celestial phenomena and created powerful myths and stories around the dance of the heavenly orbs above. The earliest astronomers were also mathematicians, and instruments constructed on their formulations were able to mechanically compute the positions of various celestial objects. The interaction between the various orbits of the Sun, Earth and Moon determine the rhythms of life, and watchmaking first evolved as a means to bring order to the world around us. As a watch manufacture with close to two centuries of fine watchmaking expertise, Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered all aspects of time expression, from the quotidian to the esoteric. One of the hallmark complications of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the display of sidereal time, time that is determined with reference to the stars instead of the Sun, first presented in the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication (2010).

This year, for the first time ever in the history of mechanical horology, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites three displays of lunar information — the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle — in a single wristwatch. This unique micromechanical combination of indications, located on the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, allows the determination of eclipse events (both solar and lunar) and rare lunar phenomena such as supermoons.

Occupying the top half of the interior face of the cradle of the Reverso Quadriptyque is a massive representation of the phases of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere. A laser-engraved moon is progressively covered and revealed by a mobile blue lacquer disc with gold glitter décor, corresponding to the age of the moon in the synodic cycle. While conventional displays of the moon phase accumulate one day of error after 32.5 months, the moon phase display of the Quadriptyque requires only one adjustment after 1,111 years.

Just below the moon phase display, on the left, is a counter with a three-dimensional micro-sculpted pink-gold sun orbited by a tiny hemispherical moon. This counter shows the draconic cycle, showing when the path of the Moon intersects with the orbit of the Earth around the Sun (known as the ecliptic). Such an intersection takes place twice in each cycle, indicated by the horizontal alignment on the counter of the moon and the sun. At this time, the Moon, Earth and Sun are all on the same plane; however, they may not be aligned. For them to be aligned, a phenomenon known as syzygy, an additional condition must be fulfilled — the Moon must be either in its new or full phase. When that happens, an eclipse event happens on Earth, either a lunar eclipse if the Moon is in its full phase, or a solar eclipse if the Moon is in its new phase. However, the actual visibility of the eclipse is dependent on various factors such as the geographical position of the viewer.

To the right of the draconic cycle counter is a domed representation of the Earth, micro-painted in enamel, with a hemispherical moon in eccentric orbit around it. This counter represents the anomalistic cycle, showing the varying distance between the Earth and Moon. At its apogee, the Moon is at its furthest distance from the Earth and is closest at its perigee. When the Moon is in its full phase near or at the perigee, an event known as a supermoon occurs, in which the Moon can appear to be up to 14 percent larger than usual in the sky.

The display of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycle together in a wristwatch is unprecedented in horology, with the latter two indications protected by patent, making the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 the only watch ever made to provide such depth of information about astronomical phenomena.

The Hybris Mechanica family of timepieces at Jaeger-LeCoultre began with the 2003 Atmos Mystérieuse and has since grown to encompass close to 20 groundbreaking horological creations, including the Master Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1 (2004), the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque (2006), the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (2014) and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (2019). The word Hybris originates from the Greek “hubris” that refers to the soaring ambition exhibited by the legendary heroes of antiquity. It is a promise made by Jaeger-LeCoultre to continually expand the horizons of watchmaking; a promise that has been dutifully kept for 18 years.

CHAPTER FOUR: REVERSE THE UNIVERSE

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born in 1931, out of the need to protect delicate horological mechanisms amidst the balletic skirmish of hooves and mallets during games of polo. Today, 90 years later, a far older dance is reflected in the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque, one that guides our calendrical rhythms according to rules that are as precise and structured as those of the regal equestrian sport.

The original Reverso bore a single time-telling face, with a mobile case that could be turned over within its cradle, revealing a solid caseback. The next generation of the Reverso featured another dial on its caseback, either in a different design to accommodate the wearer’s aesthetic preference (Duetto) or displaying a second time zone (Duoface) to offer additional functionality when travelling. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque (2006) represented an evolutionary leap in horological innovation, with a third display positioned on the interior face of the Reverso cradle.

This year, the world’s first wristwatch with four faces premieres in the form of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque), the ultimate expression of the Reverso concept. On the last face of the Quadriptyque, the exterior face of the cradle, a representation of the phases of the Moon in the Southern Hemisphere is shown. Most indications of the moon phase are of the Northern Hemisphere perspective, and the Quadriptyque’s display of the Southern Hemisphere moon phase on its fourth face is the fulfilment of the Reverso’s fundamental dualism. A star-flecked sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient of blue shades forms the backdrop to the pink-gold moon, all of which are created in the Atelier des Métiers Rares® of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The secret to the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque’s four functioning display faces lies in a solution first used in the 2006 Reverso Hybris Mechanca Grande Complication à Triptyque. Every day at midnight, a pin extends out of the main case movement to activate a mechanical corrector in the cradle, which then advances the cradle displays. The mechanism driving the cradle displays is set directly into the cradle itself, without any additional movement plates that would increase the thickness of the watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in ultra-compact watchmaking makes the Quadriptyque, despite its multiple indications and complications, one of the most wearable high-complication watches of our time.

PRESENTING INFINITY

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 comes in an exceptional presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the wearer to quickly and intuitively set all the calendar and astronomical displays of the watch after a period of being unworn.

A two-position crown on the side of the box is used to first set the number of days that have elapsed since the watch was last worn. With the Quadriptyque set within the correction support frame, the box corrector crown can then be extended to its second position and wound to rapidly bring the watch to the current date for all calendar and astronomical indications. There is no risk of overcorrecting the watch or damaging the movement, since the entire process is controlled by the box corrector mechanism.

The latest timepiece in the Hybris Mechanica series took six years of research and development. It was made possible only through the 188 years of innovation and expertise accrued within the workshops of La Grande Maison. With the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, Jaeger-LeCoultre reasserts its position at the apogee of mechanical watchmaking and reaffirms its dedication to expanding the boundaries of horological knowledge.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

Case material: White gold

Case dimensions: 51.2 x 31 mm

Thickness: 15.15 mm

Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185

Functions:

Face 1: Hour – Minute, Tourbillon (indicating the Second), Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Grande Date, Day, Month, Leap Year, Night & Day

Face 2: Jumping Digital Hour, Minute, Minute Repeater (with system avoiding dead time)

Face 3: Northern Hemisphere Moon Phase, Draconic Lunar Cycle (height of the moon), Anomalistic Lunar Cycle (apogee and perigee), Month, Year

Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase

Power reserve: 50 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Strap: Blue alligator

Reference: Q7103420

Limited edition of 10 pieces