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Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Searching for inspiration in the most unexpected places is in Roger Dubuis’ DNA. This includes uniting with world-famous urban culture artists who share its values to break the rules, showcase radical expertise, and obsess daily over the design of the future.

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Continuing on a journey to create boundary-breaking masterpieces, Roger Dubuis is proud to introduce the third timepiece from its Urban Culture Tribe with the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier (MB).

Pioneer in his art, the world-famous Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama has been inspiring his peers for decades. By inventing his super-realist feminine “Sexy Robots”, he broke conventions and shook traditions. His talent has been rewarded by multiple awards and his genius led him to work with the biggest names across high fashion, technology, and music. Knowing he chooses to pursue opportunities that force him to push the boundaries of his art, Roger Dubuis invited him to the Manufacture to take on the creative challenge: to reinterpret the Maison’s astral signature.

Embracing this opportunity to infuse his realistic and expressive signature design, the innovative artist co-created a timepiece that merges one radical world with another. Hyper performing, hyper inspiring, and hyper hypnotic, the result is modern art for the wrist.

HYPNOTIC ART FOR THE WRIST

Never one to shy away from a challenge, Roger Dubuis made the decision to recraft and reshape its own work of art – the Excalibur Monobalancier – earlier this year. Clean cut lines on both case and movement create a heightened sense of depth, while the signature star now levitates freely above the barrel. An evolution that not only raises the timepiece to an even higher standard, but also makes it an exciting and versatile canvas for Sorayama to express himself.

Reinterpreting the Excalibur MB with hyper expressivity and sophistication, the artist chose to be provocative by breaking the Maison’s design codes. Curvy lines and a full shine finish blur the sharp design and contrasted finishes Roger Dubuis usually signs its masterpieces with. Sorayama borrowed further cues from his own iconic creations by echoing his 3D sculptures within the polished titanium finish. This striking aesthetics required the Maison’s hyper-skilled watchmakers to develop unusual processes to replicate the desired shiny effect. A first for the Maison and highly challenging task especially when it came to polish fully the titanium case and bracelet. Determined to bring even more play with light to the timepiece, Sorayama also reimagined Roger Dubuis’ micro-rotor to create a hypnotising moiré optical illusion triggered by the natural fluid movements of the wearer’s wrist. This captivating and endless rippling effect – another first for both the artist and Maison – required months of in-house prototyping seeking for the right combination of materials, decorations and finishes. The final execution associates an extremely precise and optimal distance between each line of the stamped décor, with a traditional three-hour long guilloché technique on specific parts of the micro-rotor and an innovative assembly process placing a stamped sapphire dial above the reimagined micro-rotor.

As described by Sorayama, the result is the optimal harmony of two artists coming together: “The Excalibur Sorayama MB is a perfect blend of two worlds, with Roger Dubuis’ and my signature both recognisable at first sight. I’m thrilled we were able to bring such a hyper expressive timepiece to life. By pushing our limits, we’ve created a distinctive moiré and a singular masterpiece.”

HYPER MECHANICS MADE FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE

As artistically inspiring as technically impressive, the Excalibur Sorayama MB houses an automatic calibre recently enhanced with a series of mechanical and aesthetic improvements.

Motivated by a desire for hyper performance, Roger Dubuis’ engineers increased the power reserve of the RD720SQ to 72 hours. They also optimised the micro-rotor to minimise vibrations and doubled the balance wheel inertia to improve stability and make it less sensitive to shocks. Better efficiency and energy transmission was further increased through the use of a new lube and by optimising the shape of the escapement wheel, pairing it with adjustable pallet-stones, and constructing both elements from diamond-coated silicon.

Such high standards of horological mastery and craftsmanship are rewarded with the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

The hyper sophisticated masterpiece is also the first Roger Dubuis titanium grade 5 bracelet to feature its Quick Release System for ease and versatility. Housed in a 42 mm case crafted from titanium grade 5 as well, this exclusive artwork is limited to just 28 pieces and at first available in Japan only.

Together with its friends, the Maison shows what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed. In bringing a visionary artist together with incredible watchmakers, Roger Dubuis proves once again it is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology™.

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces