Tag Archive for: timepiece

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Ready, set, go: Roger Dubuis roars across the starting line to reveal the Maison is now the official timing partner of the 2022 Goodwood Festival of Speed. The new collaboration is set to whip up pleasure-seeking visitors with a series of unforgettable thrills and emotions.

The hyper watchmaker already boasts two renowned partnerships within the motorsport’s universe, creating adrenaline-charged masterpieces with racing legend Lamborghini Squadra Corse and premium tyre expert Pirelli. Welcoming another partner to the fold with the Goodwood Festival of Speed is a natural next step. In honour of the new collaboration, Roger Dubuis is proud to unveil the Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier (MB). Born to race, the new timepiece boasts an expressive blend of hyper materials and hyper mechanics.

THRILLING MECHANICS, RAGING PERFORMANCE

The new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB reflects the DNA of Lamborghini Squadra Corse combined with the horological excellence of the Maison. Powered by an automatic RD630 calibre, the 45-mm diameter Excalibur Spider Huracán channels the same exhilarating performance as its motoring namesake. Strong visual cues are inspired from the Huracán GT3 EVO2, including the honeycomb motif made famous by the supercar, with its hexagonal dashboard paralleled in the shape of the calibre. Built like an engine, the calibre’s twin barrels and 12° tilted balance wheel also represent the movement signature associated with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. When viewed from the back, the skeletonised movement reveals the 360° oscillating rim weight. This reproduces the like-for-like speed effect of a Huracán wheel rim, as well as emulating its design. Finally, a crown inspired by the supercar’s racing nuts is paired with an upper calibre strut-bar bridge design reminiscent of those found on the V10 engine itself. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

HYPER-TECH MATERIALS MEET INSPIRING RACING CODES

Both Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse compulsively seek out hyper-tech materials to fulfil their obsession with shaping the future. Just as Lamborghini Squadra Corse chooses carbon fibre for its racing cars, Roger Dubuis crafts the new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB case, bezel, and crown from pure white Mineral Composite Fibre (MCF). Exclusively developed in-house, this hyper-tech material illustrates the Maison’s technical mastery. The 100% integrated Manufacture found that engineering silica via a Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) process could produce a material 13% lighter than SMC carbon. Not only does this lightness make it extremely comfortable to wear on the wrist, it also enables the creation of intricate designs thanks to a sturdy structure. Always seeking out the most expressive aesthetics, the pure white MCF is further elevated with embellishments in striking green, intense red and electrifying yellow to honour the design of the Huracán GT3 EVO. The same shades are also found on the white rubber strap, which features green calf leather perforated with tiny holes to reveal the red beneath. Intricate stitching in red adds to the audacious look, while a Quick Release System ensures ultimate versatility. As exclusive as the Festival of Speed Driver’s Club, the Excalibur Spider Huracán MB is reserved for a select tribe only and therefore limited to 88 pieces.

Join us to discover the Maison’s latest roaring creation and explore iconic timepieces at the Roger Dubuis booth at Goodwood Festival of Speed from June 23rd to June 26th. Adrenaline-seekers beware: This is going to be an epic weekend.

Patek Philippe 

5905/1A
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. ANNUAL CALENDAR.

A resolutely sporty version in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019,
Reference 5905 combines two practical and easy-to-use complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The Manufacture is reinterpreting the style of this much sought-after model by unveiling a first version in steel – a rare metal in the Patek Philippe collections – with a three-link integrated bracelet. This bold and casual design renews the way a Patek Philippe complication watch is worn on a daily basis.

The extremely rhythmical dial features a new elegant and contemporary sunburst olive green color. It ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting. Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch. This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st.

It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial

5905/1A-001
Available for the first time in steel, the Reference 5905 self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar radiates a resolutely sporty look. The rhythmic dial features an elegant and casual “sunburst” olive green color. The integrated bracelet is enhanced by contrasting polished and satin finishes. Thanks to the vertical disk-type clutch, the central chronograph seconds hand can be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

LES VOILES DE ST BARTH RICHARD MILLE

Pasando bruscamente de la serenidad al extremo, Les Voiles de St Barth Richard Mille siempre se ha distinguido como una cita vanguardista en la que la competitividad y la tecnología más rompedora se dan encuentro. Richard Mille ha participado desde sus inicios en 2010.
Edición limitada de 50 unidades.
Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

A lo largo de su primera década, la competición ha recibido a decenas de miles de regatistas y cerca de 500 embarcaciones llegadas de todos los rincones del mundo. Con un promedio de 80 tripulaciones compitiendo en 7 clases en cada edición, se ha impuesto rápidamente como uno de los platos fuertes de la temporada caribeña. La emocionante mezcla de condiciones extremas lo convierte en un evento auténticamente único.

RM 60-01 Cronógrafo automático Les Voiles de Saint Barth

CALIBRE RMAC2

Movimiento de cuerda automática con horas y minutos, contador de segundos situado a las 3, fecha de gran tamaño, mes, calendario anual, cronógrafo flyback con segundero central y temporizador de cuenta atrás de 60 minutos situado a las 9, totalizador de 24 horas situado a las 6, función UTC y rotor de geometría variable.

RESERVA DE MARCHA

Aproximadamente 50 horas (±10 %).
45 horas con el cronógrafo en funcionamiento. La duración real de la reserva de marcha dependerá del tiempo de utilización del cronógrafo.

PLATINA Y PUENTES DE TITANIO GRADO 5

Estos componentes, de titanio grado 5 con tratamiento PVD negro, otorgan gran solidez al conjunto y un acabado perfectamente plano a las superficies, cualidades esenciales para el perfecto funcionamiento del tren de engranajes.

La platina esqueletizada y los puentes han sido sometidos a largas y exigentes pruebas para comprobar su perfecta capacidad de resistencia.

CRONÓGRAFO FLYBACK

Gracias al pulsador situado entre las 4 y las 5 horas, es posible poner el cronógrafo a cero sin tener que detener el mecanismo. En un principio, esta función se desarrolló para pilotos, para que no perdieran tiempo (ni exactitud) al parar, poner a cero y volver a iniciar el cronógrafo al pasar por un punto de navegación.

CALENDARIO ANUAL

Semi instantáneo con ajuste automático de los meses de 30 o 31 días, la fecha de gran tamaño está situada en una hendidura horizontal perfilada a las 12 y el mes se sitúa entre las 4 y las 5 horas.

FUNCIÓN UTC

El RM 60-01 incluye una aguja UTC que puede emplearse como indicador de una segunda zona horaria o, en combinación con el sol y el bisel giratorio, para situar los puntos cardinales.

ROTOR DE GEOMETRÍA VARIABLE

El RM 60-01 emplea un sistema de geometría variable para optimizar el movimiento de armado del rotor.

Especificaciones del rotor
• Brazo de titanio grado 5
• Segmento de masa oscilante de oro blanco de 18 k
• Segmento de masa oscilante con 6 posibles posiciones ajustables mediante tornillos de titanio grado 5
• Alas de oro blanco de 18 k con alto contenido en paladio
• Rodamientos de bolas de cerámica
• Unidireccional: armado en sentido antihorario

Este diseño exclusivo Richard Mille permite adaptar de forma eficaz el armado del muelle real al nivel de actividad del usuario, en ambientes deportivos o no deportivos. Mediante el ajuste de la nervadura de seis posiciones es posible modificar la inercia del rotor para que el proceso de armado se acelere en caso de que la persona que lleve el reloj mueva el brazo con calma o se desacelere si realiza actividades deportivas.

ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

ROGER DUBUIS – ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

Heart racing, tarmac scorching, the wheels scream into life. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

3, 2, 1: Introducing the new Excalibur Spider Pirelli, the first Roger Dubuis fully versatile timepiece fuelled by adrenaline and crafted with winning motorsport tyre rubber.

The latest Roger Dubuis innovation to emerge from an exclusive collaboration with Pirelli, Excalibur Spider Pirelli shows what happens when the finest minds from different industries come together to share their unrivalled know-how, breakthrough research and boundless creativity. Driven by a desire to create adrenaline-charged masterpieces for a fearless tribe, serial innovator Roger Dubuis and motorsport performance pioneer Pirelli present the newest interpretation of the Excalibur Spider collection, which sees iconic calibres heightened by interchangeable straps that features rubber inlays from certified race winning Pirelli tyres.

A ROGER DUBUIS WORLD-PREMIERE: INTERCHANGEABILITY IN ONE CLICK

On the road to victory, a few seconds is crucial. It makes all the difference. Inspired by the renowned motorsport Pit Stop, each element of the new Excalibur Spider Pirelli is interchangeable, from strap to crown and bezel – all with a simple click. A Roger Dubuis world-premiere, not only is this an extremely customisable timepiece, it also features innovative lock technology. With an uncompromising focus on a clicking sensation and sound both reassuring and thrilling, the Quick Release System on the strap and crown is now taken to the next level at the bezel, with a precise position alignment that fixes the clock with one click. A click that tells you it’s time to go. When suddenly you’ve accelerated beyond the limits– ahead of the game.

ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

A SIGNATURE SKELETON

The Excalibur Spider Pirelli is an adrenaline-charged mechanical masterpiece. With a calibre that includes Roger Dubuis’ first automatic skeleton, the transparent view of its self-winding movement is held directly on the inimitable Roger Dubuis star. It also features a micro-rotor, one reduced to its strict essence at 11 o’clock, turning seamlessly with that of the wrist. The perfect balance of weight to wind the RD820SQ is further achieved through the use of innovative materials, such as DLC Titanium, both lighter and more luxurious than stainless steel. As notorious for avant-garde aesthetics as for traditional craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is a signature of the Maison.

Of the hundreds of hours of manufacturing time for this 45mm timepiece, as much of a third of this time is devoted specifically to the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, with each and every component carefully finished by hand at the Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Geneva. Equipped with a 60-hour power reserve, this impressive feat of mechanical engineering is just a further example of the horological boldness of the Maison.

A WINNING PIRELLI TYRE FOR THE WRIST

Just like in motorsports, it takes a team effort to make it easier, faster and simpler than ever before to switch gears and customise a timepiece. Now with three additional kits in red, white or blue – the iconic Pirelli colour codes – the Excalibur Spider Pirelli transforms from full black to a pop of bold colour in a click.

Petrolheads take note! Available in a limited run of just 88 kits per colourway, these are timepieces crafted from race-winning tyres for the wrists of life’s winners. Brimming with racing design codes, the inner design of the strap displays the recognisable Pirelli CinturatoTM Intermediate pattern and the additional colour kits are thicker than the base bezel to mirror the look and feel of the distinctive Pirelli tyres, those that squeal on their way to the finish line.

LIVE LIFE IN THE FAST LANE

What if a click was all the impetus needed to trigger change? A provocative sound resonating with the craziest minds, pushing them to act? Effortlessly interchangeable, this is a click that changes the game entirely, one that empowers those who hear it to experience the world exactly the way they want. Epitomising its larger than life attitude, Roger Dubuis believes wearing a strap made of Pirelli winning tyres is what will get troublemakers beyond the finishing line. So heat up the engine and get ready to live life in the fast lane. Ready to feel the thrill?

#NoRulesOurGame

GREUBEL FORSEY – BALANCIER S

Timepiece with four hands • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve • 30° inclined GREUBEL FORSEY balance wheel system

This creation combines fully – and visibly –sport and chronometry. Circular from above, its case reveals the unique arched ovoid shape from other angles, and its slim profile reinforces its dynamic new momentum

The oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. The perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6 mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance. Its 30° angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance and is prominently visible in action thanks to the unique movement architecture

Balancier S

The exceptional chronometry of this creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement’s reliability and chronometric performance at all times

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

The Tourbillon with HUBLOT’S signature codes Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5 day power reserve carbon white

“The Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon White… different, yet resolutely Hublot. It combines the distinctive codes of our brand: 6 H-shaped titanium screws, “sandwich” case construction, the Art of Fusion with carbon fibre and composite inclusions, an HUB6020 skeleton tourbillon manufacture movement custom-designed for its tonneau case, a jewel of innovation and expertise showcasing the aesthetic approach to movement design central to the Hublot philosophy, and, lastly, strap interchangeability thanks to its patented One Click system.

In the seven years since its launch in 2014, the singular and distinctive Spirit of Big Bang has been cultivating its differences whilst incorporating the signature Hublot codes – 6 H-shaped titanium screws, a “sandwich” case construction, and a demonstration of the Art of Fusion.

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

Spirit-of-Big-Bang-Tourbillon-5-day-Power-Reserve-Carbon-White-3

With the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power Reserve Carbon White, Hublot combines black with white, proving opposites attract. The 42-mm case, case back and bezel are crafted from carbon fibre featuring white composite inclusions. These white inclusions are formed of glass microfibres created as a non-woven fabric (NWF), used mainly to improve the breaking strength of composites: This NWF is then co-impregnated with the carbon fibres using tinted epoxy resin when the composite preforms are created in a special mould.

Released in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power Reserve Carbon White plays with contrasts and transparency with a sapphire case back and dial which reveal the ultra-aesthetic architecture of the HUB6020 manufacture movement. A skeleton tourbillon specially designed to sit within the tonneau case of the Spirit of Big Bang. A power reserve of 115 hours, hand-wound, with a 5-day indicator set at 8 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon cage completes one rotation per minute. Off-centre hours and minutes can be read at 3 o’clock.
Paired with a white lined rubber strap, the Spirit of Big Bang White embraces interchangeability thanks to its patented “One-Click” system.

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty.
An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time.

Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silk-like pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The watches come with a full 5-year warranty and are offered in three unique choices:

– A model with an 18K Moonshine™ gold dial featuring an embossed silk pattern and Roman numerals.
– A model with a white dial, featuring embossed Roman numerals in 18K Moonshine™ gold.
– A model with an 18K white gold rhodium-plated dial, fully paved with a snow setting of 768 single-cut diamonds. The markings appear on the front crystal.

As always, each Trésor is defined by the 38 full-cut diamonds that curve along the sides of the case, as well as an additional full-cut diamond set on the crown, which itself is engraved with an OMEGA flower and filled with red liquid ceramic.

Turning the watches over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits just behind polished mirror casebacks that are embellished by a unique metalized pattern.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies’ watch born to accompany every moment of the modern woman’s life

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

The manufacture is stepping up the allure of its Twenty~4 collection exclusively for women with a fresh interpretation of the original “manchette” or cuff-style quartz model in steel of 1999. It is launching two new versions adorned with white-gold applied Arabic numerals and white-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers. Designed as stylish companions to every facet of an active lifestyle, these Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A- 001 with a blue sunburst dial and 4910/1200A-010 with a gray sunburst dial stand out more than ever as paragons of timeless feminine elegance.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Since 1839, timepieces for women have always featured prominently in Patek Philippe’s collections – whether as the pocket watches or pendant watches of the nineteenth century or the wristwatches that first emerged in the early twentieth century. Several milestones in the manufacture’s history also relate to watches destined for women, such as the first true wristwatch made in Switzerland, created for a Hungarian countess in 1868, and the Geneva company’s very first striking wristwatch, a five-minute repeater housed in a small platinum case with an integrated chain bracelet in 1916.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A modern classic

In 1999, Patek Philippe strengthened its privileged links with feminine watch lovers by launching its first collection dedicated exclusively to women. The aim was to meet the demands of the independent active woman who sought a timepiece with an assertive personality able to adapt to her modern lifestyle. A watch of timeless elegance that would complement her fashionable business wear and most elegant evening wear. It would be her ally on every occasion, uniting contemporary design, technical excellence and impeccable craftsmanship.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Conceived, as its name suggested, for every hour of the day and night, at work, at home and during leisure activities, the new Twenty~4 stood out by its original art-deco-inspired “manchette” or cuff design, featuring a cambered rectangular case that followed the contours of a woman’s wrist and a metallic bracelet that felt exceptionally smooth and comfortable.

The first three Twenty~4 models of 1999 (references 4910/10A) were also distinguished by their pairing of steel with diamonds, an association unique at the time, with the precious stones set in two rows highlighting the rectangular shape of the two-tier case. The dials, adorned with the two applied Roman numerals XII and VI and diamond hour-markers, offered a choice of threecolors: “Forever Black”, “Eternal Gray” and “Timeless White”. An elegant modern advertising campaign marked the launch of this new women-only timepiece, with the slogan “Who will you be in the next 24 hours?” shining the spotlight on the watch’s versatility. The creation of the Twenty~4 strengthened women’s perception of Patek Philippe as a brand of direct relevance and appeal to them. It reminded them that the manufacture developed and built not only the most technically innovative and complex timepieces but those most aesthetically striking and refined.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A great success

Blessed with its strong identity and a design tailor-made to live the lives of modern discerning women, the Twenty~4 quartz “manchette” model was a great success from the start and has established itself in the last two decades as one of the manufacture’s best-sellers. Over the years it has appeared in rose gold and white gold, with other dial colors (brown and blue), in a small format complementing the medium-size models, on satin straps, in dazzling Haute Joaillerie versions (including two endowed with manually wound mechanical movements) and in a yellow-gold model without diamonds on the case. Now seen as epitomizing the classic modern style, the Twenty~4 has represented, for many women, their right of entry into the Patek Philippe universe. It has consolidated the manufacture’s position as a major player in the women’s watch market and paved the way for the expansion of other women’s lines, such as the Calatravas, as well as the complications that are useful in everyday situations (the Annual Calendar, the time-zone watches and the chronographs) and even the grand complications (perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph and minute repeater).

The time of the Twenty~4 Automatic

In 2018, Patek Philippe responded to women’s increasing interest in mechanical watches by launching the Twenty~4 Automatic. While its bracelet retains the same exclusive design, with the broad, gently cambered central links framed by delicate two-tier outer links, this Reference 7300, endowed with a caliber 324 S C self-winding movement, stands out from the quartz-driven “manchette” model by its round case, its bezel lit with a double row of diamonds in a “dentelle” (lacework) setting, and the applied Arabic numerals on the dial, these last providing a distinctly contemporary note. This model is available in steel and in rose gold, with a choice of dial colors, and in a jewelry version with gem-set crown, lugs and bracelet. Patek Philippe also produces an Haute Joaillerie model in rose gold, paved throughout with diamonds, showcasing the “random” or “snow” setting. The launch of this new incarnation of timeless feminine elegance was accompanied by an advertising campaign that excited widespread interest. It gave center stage to a “Twenty~4 woman”: independent, sure of her taste and making her own way in the world.

New Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A-001 & 4910/1200A-010

Patek Philippe is continuing the renewal of its Twenty~4 collection by reinterpreting the original model, the medium-size (25.1 x 30 mm) quartz “manchette” watch in steel. It is issuing two new versions in which the Roman numerals give way to the white-gold applied Arabic numerals 12 and 6 and the diamond hour markers are replaced by applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, also in white gold. This new face constitutes the first major change to the Twenty~4 of 1999 – and an aesthetic evolution in step with the design of the Twenty~4 Automatic. The two new references feature a dial decorated with a blue sunburst (4910/1200A-001) or with a gray sunburst enriched by a gradation to black at the periphery (4910/1200A-010). Their white-gold applied numerals and hour markers and white-gold baton-style hands all have a luminous coating ensuring excellent legibility in the dark. The fine grooved rays of the sunburst emanating from the center of the dial play with the light, lending a refined but dynamic touch.

The distinctive shape of the two-tier rectangular case is underlined by two rows of 18 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (approx. 0.42 ct) set with textbook precision. A Calatrava Cross, emblem of the Patek Philippe manufacture, embellishes the crown. The supple, comfortable bracelet, fitted with a fold-over clasp, is a jewel in its own right. Each component is manually finished and fully polished. The Patek Philippe caliber E15 quartz movement is made with the same devotion to fine workmanship as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The new references 4910/1200A-001 and 4910/1200A-010 with Arabic numerals replace the previous references 4910/10A-001, 4910/10A-010, 4910/10A-011 and 4910/10A-012 with Roman numerals.

“Rituals of my Life”

The launch of these two new Twenty~4 models is accompanied by a digital communication campaign addressing modern women sure of their taste, with an affinity for beauty and fine design. They are independent women, living life to the full, with a range of interests. Patek Philippe chose as central theme “Rituals of my Life”: the precious personal moments that punctuate the modern woman’s life – such as the finishing touches before an evening out; a pause for a moment’s serenity at sunrise; or the luxury of taking time for herself by reading a book or performing the movements that bring her physical and mental wellbeing. Essential, intimate moments that are part of a woman’s life today and that some choose to feature as scenes to be shared with friends on the social media. The slogan “Begin your own tradition” underlines the link with the famous Patek Philippe “Generations” campaign by inviting the Twenty~4 woman to begin a long-term relationship with a brand that shares her values. The images and videos work together with a film describing the creative philosophy behind the Twenty~4 collection: a model of timeless design that has become a modern classic and the gold standard for the “manchette” watch. All of which is set to strengthen Patek Philippe’s increasing success in the ladies’ watch segment and in the hearts of women for whom style and beauty must pass the test of time.

For more information about the new Twenty~4, please visit:
https://www.patek.com/en/company/news/introducing-the-new-twenty4