Tag Archive for: timepiece

Relojes de lujo Perpetual Extraleganza – El icónico Piaget Polo

 

Piaget Polo adopta el calendario perpetuo en el exclusivo modo ultraplano

El icónico Piaget Polo alcanza alturas sin precedentes en 2023 con el Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin impulsado por el calibre 1255P. Este impresionante nuevo modelo exhibe una de las complicaciones más emblemáticas de la relojería, complementada evocadoramente por una indicación de las fases lunares.

Usado por figuras excepcionales como Ursula Andress, Roger Moore, Andy Warhol y Bjorn Borg, este ícono unisex en oro o acero que destaca entre la multitud irradia un carácter singular y un aura inconfundible de distinción que resuena con el espíritu de Piaget. alegría compartida, sofisticación y extravagancia. Los numerosos viajes de Yves Piaget lo ayudaron a sentir el impulso del mercado estadounidense y su apetito por los relojes deportivos de lujo. Por lo tanto, Piaget estaba preparado para anular las convenciones de la industria al ofrecer un enfoque deportivo y relajado de la elegancia de la relojería las 24 horas del día que cautivó a los EE. UU.

El emblemático Calendario Perpetuo

La icónica colección Piaget Polo ahora da la bienvenida por primera vez a un calendario perpetuo mecánico, una complicación emblemática en la que Piaget ha desarrollado una experiencia considerable que ya se ha desplegado en algunas de sus otras líneas de relojes. Diseñados para adelantar el día, la fecha y el año hasta el año 2100 (meses, fases lunares y ciclo de año bisiesto), los relojes con calendario perpetuo atraen de forma natural a un público exigente y perspicaz, personas conocedoras que aprecian la suma del   saber hacer de la alta relojería . incorporados en tales modelos.

Relojería ultrafina pionera

Piaget ha construido su reputación primero en el desarrollo y fabricación de componentes ultraplanos y luego en el desarrollo de movimientos ultraplanos. Combinando destreza relojera, diseño de alta precisión y creatividad audaz, el movimiento interno 12P lanzado en 1960 fue el más plano del mundo porque se basó en la idea de utilizar un microrotor para garantizar su ultradelgadez. Cincuenta años después, este calibre dio lugar a su vez a la nueva generación del calibre 1200P.

Para el nuevo calibre ultraplano de 4 mm 1255P de Piaget, la Manufactura se basó en el calibre ultraplano 1200P con su extrema delgadez y su probada fiabilidad, al tiempo que añadió un calendario perpetuo adicional con mecanismo de fase lunar. Con un grosor total de solo 8,65 mm, el nuevo Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin de 42 mm lleva el universo a la muñeca al mismo tiempo que conserva el ambiente alegre de la alta vida que hace alarde de esta colección fabulosamente festiva y colorida.

Fluidez icónica

El Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin presenta una esfera de color verde esmeralda oscuro con un diseño de galón y tres subesferas para la fecha, el mes (junto con la indicación del año bisiesto) y el día de la semana a las 9, 12 y 3 en punto, junto con el Indicación de fase lunar a las 6 en punto. Fieles a la tradición de Piaget, las subesferas incorporan varios acabados, añadiendo riqueza visual a medida que la luz juega sobre ellas, junto con Super-Luminova ® índices Si bien conserva los gallones que forman parte de la firma Piaget Polo desde 1979 en ambas cajas, el vínculo estético entre la nueva generación de Piaget Polo y sus predecesores se ve reforzado por la reaparición de los gallones en el brazalete. Otras mejoras se relacionan con un nuevo sistema SingleTouch intercambiable para el brazalete, ya que el modelo viene con una cómoda alternativa de correa de caucho, que hace eco del patrón de gadroon en el dial, que diversifica las opciones de uso de manera fácil pero segura.

Un legado de distinción sin esfuerzo

El encuentro por excelencia entre  la alta relojería  y el uso diario, el Piaget Polo se desliza a la perfección del día a la noche, de lo público a lo privado. Siempre encajando, nunca mezclando, ofrece una narrativa contemporánea para las identidades más audaces y versátiles. El nuevo Piaget Polo continúa personificando la alegre mezcla de comodidad, sofisticación y extravagancia que ha forjado su renombre. Para Piaget, el estilo es un regalo. Un séptimo sentido. Algo que no se puede aprender ni comprar. Sea cual sea el lugar, sea cual sea el momento, sin dejar de ser fiel a su distinción sin esfuerzo, Piaget Polo es una invitación a liberar la versatilidad y la autoexpresión personales, encendiendo una capacidad única para encajar y sobresalir.

Hublot and Takashi Murakami

CLASSIC FUSION TAKASHI MURAKAMI SAPPHIRE RAINBOW

Hublot and Takashi Murakami unveil the second timepiece of their collaboration: the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. This new watch takes the smiling flower, the iconic theme of the Japanese artist’s work, and transforms it into a whirlwind of transparency and colour. Hublot loves Art!

After launching the first timepiece at the beginning of the year – an All Black watch, which became an instant collector’s item – Hublot and Takashi Murakami are continuing to transpose the Japanese artist’s Kawaii world into horology, by introducing the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow watch. This new piece, still based on the smiling flower, the iconic theme of Murakami’s work, has moved from black to colour with transparent effects.  

The technicians in Hublot’s workshops have created a unique setting with this new work of art, a transparent background through which we can contemplate both the artist’s work and the intricate mechanics of the watchmakers in Nyon. Reusing the characteristic features of the Classic Fusion model, this 45mm-diameter case is cut from sapphire crystal, a technological feat pioneered by Hublot.

The smiling flower presents a mischievous smile on a three-dimensional face that literally emerges from the watch dial, extending out beyond the sapphire crystal. 12 colourful petals rotate around this face, and their polychromatic effect is achieved by setting 487 stones representing the colours of the rainbow: rubies, pink sapphires, amethysts, blue sapphires, tsavorites, yellow and orange sapphires. Thanks to an ingenious ball-bearing system specially developed by Hublot’s engineers, the petals start turning under the watch crystal and bring Takashi Murakami’s smiling flower to life.  

In the beating heart of the watch, the Nyon watchmakers have placed the company’s HUB1214 calibre, here without the stopwatch function. This movement has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Targeting Contemporary Art insiders, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow watch is available in a limited edition of 100 numbered pieces. 

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

  • Inspired by the Chinese Jade culture, the Traditionnelle tourbillon model is dedicated to China market, numbered and engraved in 30-piece limited edition.
  • A limited edition entirely dressed in Imperial Green, a color that represents the purest and highest grade of green jadeite.
  • Featuring the ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement, calibre 2160/1.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Geneva, November 29th, 2021 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Vacheron Constantin presents a high complication limited-edition timepiece, exclusive to the China market.

A Gentleman of Jade

“A gentleman of jade” is a well-known phrase since ancient China to describe a man with noble character. The Chinese believe that a real gentleman is elegant and dignified just as the Jade, which gives inspiration to the creation of the first high complication wristwatch specially designed for the China market. Considered as a mirror of Chinese civilization, Jade has been a treasure of Chinese tradition for thousands of years. This gemstone has been a symbol of high morality throughout Chinese history.

“Imperial Green”

The color of green is described in Chinese poetry as gentle, soothing, and full of vigour and energy. Living in a green environment or adding touches of green to your surroundings can surprisingly bring sophistication, tranquillity and vitality to life.

The well-known Hongshan (Green) Jade Dragon from the Neolithic Period – the earliest known jade dragon carving in China – defines the imperial nature of Green jade carvings. In modern times, jadeite, a harder form of jade known by Chinese, is greatly appreciated for its gentle, translucent, luxurious, but not overstated color.

A jade’s quality is largely determined by the purity of its color. Imperial green, the color that Vacheron Constantin’s first high complication China Limited Edition wristwatch is dressed in, is known to represent the purest and most sophisticated shade of green jadeite, and has a sharp boldness while retaining being understated and warm.

!!! No information available !!!

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

This Traditionnelle tourbillon watch features an elegant 41 mm-diameter case in 18K 5N pink gold which houses a self-winding movement developed by Vacheron Constantin.

In addition to the refinement of its openworked tourbillon carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, the emblem of the Manufacture and entirely hand chamfered and finished, Caliber 2160 is distinguished by its incredible slimness: this ultra-thin 188-part movement endowed with an approximately 80-hour power reserve measures just 5.65 mm thick. Its relatively sedate frequency (2.5 Hz), along with its 22K gold sandblasted peripheral oscillating weight, provide a chance to admire the steady beating of its mechanism and the exceptional level of traditional Côtes de Genève finishing visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The new Traditionnelle tourbillon China Limited Edition timepiece displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon, framed by an Imperial green-toned dial graced with gold hour-markers and bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands.

As an old Chinese saying goes, like the Jade, those who accomplish great things are modest about their capabilities. As the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition honors and interprets a Gentleman of Jade.

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Summary

Technical refinement meets aesthetic elegance in this model imbued with exquisite masculinity. It represents the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details. Faithful to the origins of Vacheron Constantin and dedicated to Chinese clients enamored of beautifully crafted watches that are both understated and distinguished. Issued in a 30-piece limited series exclusively for Mainland China, it asserts the style in the accordant shades of green: from the elegant Imperial green-toned sunburst finishing dial to the Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with 18K 5N pink gold buckle. Powered by the in-house self-winding Calibre 2160/1, this Traditionnelle tourbillon watch displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon.

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!!! No information available !!!

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference 6000T/000R-B972

Calibre
2160/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.4 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Imperial Green, sunburst finishing
18K 5N pink applied hour-markers and Maltese cross

Strap
Imperial Green Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Limited edition of 30 pieces, individually numbered

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST

Platinum with enamelled and hand-engraved white-gold dial

Exquisite craftsmanship.

The CABARET TOURBILLON is a milestone in the history of precision watchmaking. In 2008, with this watch, A. Lange & Söhne succeeded for the first time in stopping the tourbillon with a V-shaped arresting spring. This made it possible to set a watch with this complication with one-second accuracy. The watch is based on Lange’s only rectangular model that since its launch has stood for extravagance as well as for a distinctive movement philosophy: the CABARET.

Limited to 30 pieces, the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST is now totally dedicated to a heritage in art. The seventh model of the HANDWERKSKUNST series is characterised by artisanally elaborate finissage of the dial and the movement. The inner area of the three-part solid white-gold dial is manually engraved with a lozenge pattern. A semi-transparent enamel layer adds extra depth to the engraving and showcases various metallic shades of grey. The result is a special dial with a three-dimensional effect.

The manually wound calibre L042.1 has a twin mainspring barrel that delivers a power reserve of 120 hours. It is a masterpiece of technology and craftsmanship. It is composed of 370 parts, of which no fewer than 84 are integrated in the filigreed tourbillon that weighs only a quarter of a gram. Measuring 22.3 by 32.6 millimetres, the form movement is tailored to the rectangular shape of the case. In comparison with the 2008 version, it has a new indexless oscillation system with a Lange balance spring. The lozenge motif of the dial is echoed by the black-rhodiumed engravings on the tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks, creating a visual bridge between the dial and the movement side.

This model was introduced in 2021. The dial is crafted from solid white gold and features manual engravings in the lozenge design style and semi-transparent enamelling. The hands are made of rhodiumed gold.

Price: 320.300,00 €*

*Recommended retail price in Spain including VAT. Non-binding quotation, prices subject to change.
ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

ROGER DUBUIS – ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

Heart racing, tarmac scorching, the wheels scream into life. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

3, 2, 1: Introducing the new Excalibur Spider Pirelli, the first Roger Dubuis fully versatile timepiece fuelled by adrenaline and crafted with winning motorsport tyre rubber.

The latest Roger Dubuis innovation to emerge from an exclusive collaboration with Pirelli, Excalibur Spider Pirelli shows what happens when the finest minds from different industries come together to share their unrivalled know-how, breakthrough research and boundless creativity. Driven by a desire to create adrenaline-charged masterpieces for a fearless tribe, serial innovator Roger Dubuis and motorsport performance pioneer Pirelli present the newest interpretation of the Excalibur Spider collection, which sees iconic calibres heightened by interchangeable straps that features rubber inlays from certified race winning Pirelli tyres.

A ROGER DUBUIS WORLD-PREMIERE: INTERCHANGEABILITY IN ONE CLICK

On the road to victory, a few seconds is crucial. It makes all the difference. Inspired by the renowned motorsport Pit Stop, each element of the new Excalibur Spider Pirelli is interchangeable, from strap to crown and bezel – all with a simple click. A Roger Dubuis world-premiere, not only is this an extremely customisable timepiece, it also features innovative lock technology. With an uncompromising focus on a clicking sensation and sound both reassuring and thrilling, the Quick Release System on the strap and crown is now taken to the next level at the bezel, with a precise position alignment that fixes the clock with one click. A click that tells you it’s time to go. When suddenly you’ve accelerated beyond the limits– ahead of the game.

ONE CLICK AWAY FROM CHANGING THE GAME

Excalibur Spider Pirelli

A SIGNATURE SKELETON

The Excalibur Spider Pirelli is an adrenaline-charged mechanical masterpiece. With a calibre that includes Roger Dubuis’ first automatic skeleton, the transparent view of its self-winding movement is held directly on the inimitable Roger Dubuis star. It also features a micro-rotor, one reduced to its strict essence at 11 o’clock, turning seamlessly with that of the wrist. The perfect balance of weight to wind the RD820SQ is further achieved through the use of innovative materials, such as DLC Titanium, both lighter and more luxurious than stainless steel. As notorious for avant-garde aesthetics as for traditional craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is a signature of the Maison.

Of the hundreds of hours of manufacturing time for this 45mm timepiece, as much of a third of this time is devoted specifically to the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, with each and every component carefully finished by hand at the Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Geneva. Equipped with a 60-hour power reserve, this impressive feat of mechanical engineering is just a further example of the horological boldness of the Maison.

A WINNING PIRELLI TYRE FOR THE WRIST

Just like in motorsports, it takes a team effort to make it easier, faster and simpler than ever before to switch gears and customise a timepiece. Now with three additional kits in red, white or blue – the iconic Pirelli colour codes – the Excalibur Spider Pirelli transforms from full black to a pop of bold colour in a click.

Petrolheads take note! Available in a limited run of just 88 kits per colourway, these are timepieces crafted from race-winning tyres for the wrists of life’s winners. Brimming with racing design codes, the inner design of the strap displays the recognisable Pirelli CinturatoTM Intermediate pattern and the additional colour kits are thicker than the base bezel to mirror the look and feel of the distinctive Pirelli tyres, those that squeal on their way to the finish line.

LIVE LIFE IN THE FAST LANE

What if a click was all the impetus needed to trigger change? A provocative sound resonating with the craziest minds, pushing them to act? Effortlessly interchangeable, this is a click that changes the game entirely, one that empowers those who hear it to experience the world exactly the way they want. Epitomising its larger than life attitude, Roger Dubuis believes wearing a strap made of Pirelli winning tyres is what will get troublemakers beyond the finishing line. So heat up the engine and get ready to live life in the fast lane. Ready to feel the thrill?

#NoRulesOurGame

Watches and Wonders 2021 – Morning Show – April 9

#watchesandwonders2021 A lively show this morning with highlights from yesterday’s brand announcements, discussed in fine detail with Zhixiang Ding, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos China. There was a strong sky theme, with moons, astronomy, the calendar and even rainbows.

We were joined live from Neuchâtel by Antoine Pin, CEO of the Watch Division at Bulgari to talk about his plans for the year ahead. Then we crossed to Schaffhausen to speak live to Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen about the brand’s roots in engineering, and its forward-facing blend of digital and in-person interactions going forward. The Watching Brief was all about Design today. In Shanghai, Carson Chan, chief advisor to FHH, talked us through the greens and puristic designs on screen, while in the studio independent watch consultant Gianfranco Ritschel once more donned his gloves on to show us the structured dials in the ‘flesh’. We went Behind the Clock Face with Cartier, Panerai and Piaget looking at new innovations and customer experience. And Pascal Ravessoud, Director of External Affairs for FHH, was on set to catch you up if you missed yesterday’s panel on Corporate Social Responsibility and tease today’s panel on distribution in a post-pandemic world.
Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty.
An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time.

Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silk-like pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

The watches come with a full 5-year warranty and are offered in three unique choices:

– A model with an 18K Moonshine™ gold dial featuring an embossed silk pattern and Roman numerals.
– A model with a white dial, featuring embossed Roman numerals in 18K Moonshine™ gold.
– A model with an 18K white gold rhodium-plated dial, fully paved with a snow setting of 768 single-cut diamonds. The markings appear on the front crystal.

As always, each Trésor is defined by the 38 full-cut diamonds that curve along the sides of the case, as well as an additional full-cut diamond set on the crown, which itself is engraved with an OMEGA flower and filled with red liquid ceramic.

Turning the watches over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits just behind polished mirror casebacks that are embellished by a unique metalized pattern.