Tag Archive for: timepiece

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P
, , , ,

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Patek Philippe  1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Patek Philippe unveils its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

The manufacture reasserts its competence and innovative spirit in the field of short-time measurement: it presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) with 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism, ticks in a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents. Its sporty design emphasizes the highly technical and performance-oriented facets. With this tenthof-a-second monopusher chronograph produced in small series – it is just as difficult to craft as a tourbillon, a minute repeater, or a split-seconds chronograph – Patek Philippe is delighting connoisseurs and enthusiasts with a new attraction in the domain of grand complications.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters. In ca, 1930– 1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340). As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third century were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers. These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements
To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second. For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second. Conversely, the new caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation. The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display
With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customercentric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths. In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect. The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph. Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy. To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement.

And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement. The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability. To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism
To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department. This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.). The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays. This is the first time since the launch of the perpetual calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P“ (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection. But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.
Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements
Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes. Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster). To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 µm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber
Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use. For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process. The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.
A monopusher chronograph
The last notable feature: The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces. In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A resolutely sporty style
A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine. The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays. The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®. Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped. Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch. The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds. The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

• Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1) This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

• Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1) The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
• 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1) This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

• Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2) In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

• Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2) This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

• Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1) With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a siliconoxide surface (Silinvar®).

• Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1) Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which nonmetallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017).

As a veritable concentrate of innovations, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe – all in the first twenty years of the 21st century

/by
Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P
, , ,

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Patek Philippe  1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Patek Philippe unveils its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

The manufacture reasserts its competence and innovative spirit in the field of short-time measurement: it presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) with 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism, ticks in a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents. Its sporty design emphasizes the highly technical and performance-oriented facets. With this tenthof-a-second monopusher chronograph produced in small series – it is just as difficult to craft as a tourbillon, a minute repeater, or a split-seconds chronograph – Patek Philippe is delighting connoisseurs and enthusiasts with a new attraction in the domain of grand complications.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters. In ca, 1930– 1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340). As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third century were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers. These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements
To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second. For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second. Conversely, the new caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation. The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display
With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customercentric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths. In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect. The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph. Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy. To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement.

And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement. The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability. To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism
To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department. This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.). The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays. This is the first time since the launch of the perpetual calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P“ (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection. But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.
Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements
Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes. Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster). To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 µm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber
Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use. For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process. The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.
A monopusher chronograph
The last notable feature: The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces. In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A resolutely sporty style
A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine. The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays. The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®. Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped. Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch. The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds. The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

• Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1) This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

• Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1) The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
• 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1) This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

• Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2) In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

• Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2) This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

• Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1) With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a siliconoxide surface (Silinvar®).

• Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1) Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which nonmetallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017).

As a veritable concentrate of innovations, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe – all in the first twenty years of the 21st century

/by
Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P
, , ,

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Patek Philippe  1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Patek Philippe unveils its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

The manufacture reasserts its competence and innovative spirit in the field of short-time measurement: it presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) with 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism, ticks in a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents. Its sporty design emphasizes the highly technical and performance-oriented facets. With this tenthof-a-second monopusher chronograph produced in small series – it is just as difficult to craft as a tourbillon, a minute repeater, or a split-seconds chronograph – Patek Philippe is delighting connoisseurs and enthusiasts with a new attraction in the domain of grand complications.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters. In ca, 1930– 1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340). As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third century were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers. These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements
To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second. For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second. Conversely, the new caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation. The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display
With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customercentric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths. In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect. The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph. Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy. To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement.

And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement. The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability. To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism
To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department. This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.). The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays. This is the first time since the launch of the perpetual calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P“ (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection. But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.
Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements
Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes. Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster). To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 µm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber
Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use. For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process. The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.
A monopusher chronograph
The last notable feature: The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces. In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A resolutely sporty style
A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine. The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays. The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®. Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped. Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch. The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds. The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

• Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1) This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

• Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1) The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
• 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1) This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

• Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2) In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

• Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2) This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

• Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1) With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a siliconoxide surface (Silinvar®).

• Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1) Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which nonmetallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017).

As a veritable concentrate of innovations, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe – all in the first twenty years of the 21st century

/by
Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P
, , ,

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Patek Philippe  1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Patek Philippe unveils its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

The manufacture reasserts its competence and innovative spirit in the field of short-time measurement: it presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) with 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism, ticks in a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents. Its sporty design emphasizes the highly technical and performance-oriented facets. With this tenthof-a-second monopusher chronograph produced in small series – it is just as difficult to craft as a tourbillon, a minute repeater, or a split-seconds chronograph – Patek Philippe is delighting connoisseurs and enthusiasts with a new attraction in the domain of grand complications.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters. In ca, 1930– 1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340). As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third century were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers. These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements
To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second. For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second. Conversely, the new caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation. The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display
With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customercentric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths. In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect. The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph. Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy. To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement.

And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement. The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability. To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism
To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department. This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.). The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays. This is the first time since the launch of the perpetual calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P“ (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection. But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.
Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements
Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes. Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster). To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 µm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber
Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use. For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process. The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.
A monopusher chronograph
The last notable feature: The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces. In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A resolutely sporty style
A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine. The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays. The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®. Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped. Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch. The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds. The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

• Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1) This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

• Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1) The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
• 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1) This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

• Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2) In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

• Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2) This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

• Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1) With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a siliconoxide surface (Silinvar®).

• Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1) Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which nonmetallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017).

As a veritable concentrate of innovations, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe – all in the first twenty years of the 21st century

/by
Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P
, , ,

Patek Philippe -1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Patek Philippe  1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph  5470P

Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Patek Philippe unveils its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

The manufacture reasserts its competence and innovative spirit in the field of short-time measurement: it presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) with 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism, ticks in a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents. Its sporty design emphasizes the highly technical and performance-oriented facets. With this tenthof-a-second monopusher chronograph produced in small series – it is just as difficult to craft as a tourbillon, a minute repeater, or a split-seconds chronograph – Patek Philippe is delighting connoisseurs and enthusiasts with a new attraction in the domain of grand complications.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters. In ca, 1930– 1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340). As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third century were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers. These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements
To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second. For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second. Conversely, the new caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation. The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display
With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customercentric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths. In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect. The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph. Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy. To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement.

And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement. The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability. To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism
To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department. This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.). The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays. This is the first time since the launch of the perpetual calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P“ (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection. But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.
Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements
Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes. Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster). To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 µm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber
Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use. For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process. The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.
A monopusher chronograph
The last notable feature: The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces. In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A resolutely sporty style
A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine. The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays. The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®. Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped. Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch. The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds. The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

• Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1) This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

• Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1) The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
• 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1) This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

• Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2) In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

• Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2) This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

• Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1) With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a siliconoxide surface (Silinvar®).

• Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1) Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which nonmetallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017).

As a veritable concentrate of innovations, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe – all in the first twenty years of the 21st century

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“The Anatomy of Beauty®” An Art & Timepiece Exhibit in the Vacheron Constantin New York Flagship

“The Anatomy of Beauty®” An Art & Timepiece Exhibit in the Vacheron Constantin New York Flagship

New York, NY, April 25th, 2022 – Dive into an exploration of earth’s organic and complicated structures alongside the artistry of watchmaker Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces in “The Anatomy of Beauty®”, a new exhibition opening in Vacheron Constantin’s New York Flagship at 28 E.57th St NY, NY from April through September 2022.  Vacheron Constantin creates an immersive experience that shines light upon the layered and minute details that create beauty through a curated collection of extraordinary watches alongside larger than life depictions of coral, and the viscerally moving artwork, These Waters, by artist Melissa McGill.

A Commitment to Art & Culture

Throughout its history, Vacheron Constantin has demonstrated a deep commitment to the arts.  Most recently on a global level, the Maison’s partnership with the Louvre, embodies Vacheron Constantin’s unwavering dedication to the conservation, preservation and transmission of artistic craft.  In the Americas, a series of exhibitions in the Flagship boutique have come to life to support and showcase work by American artists including Chris Burden, photographer Cory Richards, and contemporary pop artist Jojo Anavim. In this new exhibition, the Maison introduces work by interdisciplinary New York artist, Melissa McGill.

Beauty in the Details

Vacheron Constantin’s “The Anatomy of Beauty®” is a metaphorical and physical journey.  Coral-structures and skeletonized watch-movements suddenly take on a new relationship, their respective esthetic rhythms of plains and voids, shadow and light echoing one another’s carefully crafted surfaces. The entire composition of a watch movement, although mechanical, appears organic and filled with life as it operates – as lively as the meticulous work of nature which builds the openwork lace-architecture of the ocean’s coral, or the tick tock steady rhythm of the earth’s water waves as depicted in These Waters by Melissa McGill. It is in these details between nature’s work and the work of human hands, that we find incredible, visceral, and undeniable, beauty.

Extraordinary Watches

The Art of Skeletonization

Highly complicated skeletonized watches might be considered the ultimate quest in a mechanical world – the meticulous attention to detail both in beauty and in function is a sight to behold.  This detail-oriented and stunning work of skeletonization is magnificently shown in the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar.  The contemporary gold timepiece is magnified by a sapphire dial which appears to extend an invitation to dive into the heart of its anatomy and explore its ultra-thin and skeletonized perpetual calendar caliber 1120 QPSQ/1.

On special exhibit for the show, the Maison offers a look at a rare repeating watch combined with the beauty of a skeletonized dial in a platinum limited edition Skeleton Minute Repeater reference from 2006.  The caliber 1755 beating inside of the timepiece consists of 330 parts, at only 3.30 mm thick. The view through the sapphire crystal dial shows decorative hand engraving of the wheels and bridges as well as beautiful racks that track the hours and minutes. The platinum 37mm case features iconic tear drop lugs. This Skeleton Minute Repeater visually brings to mind the careful and intricate details of the world’s underwater corals and combines the best of technical expertise in complicated watchmaking with the Maison’s unique artistic expression.

Intricacy of Gem-setting

Whether functional or ceremonial objects, Vacheron Constantin’s women’s creations bear witness to a perpetually renewed notion of beauty and a constant quest for technical creativity, within which attention to detail shapes a watchmaking aesthetic that is unique to the Maison.

The modern Égérie ladies collection showcases an exquisite dial pattern, inspired by a tapestry technique, made using the art of guilloche, and expertly set with diamonds. The signature touch of the Égérie collection on display is a daring off-centered display, designed around two intertwined circles. The date or the moon-phase is part of a subtle diagonal line formed by the Vacheron Constantin logo and the crown audaciously placed between 1 and 2 o’clock o’clock.

On display for the exhibition, an 1822 yellow gold pocket watch expertly set with amethyst precious stones in a delicate wave pattern of brilliant, yet delicate color also serves as an example of Vacheron Constantin’s passion for delicate and beautiful watchmaking arts. The gold dial displays an engine-turned center and 12 Roman numerals, as well as an outer minute track.  The timepiece stands as an excellent example of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage in beautifully detailed gem-set pocket watches and the Maison’s longstanding expertise in gem-setting as it captures and reflects light much like the water’s waves with their glistening sunshine peaks.

Métiers d’Art

Born from a reflection upon the past and the present, the Méetiers d’Art “Les Masques” limited edition collection created in 2007 recounts a thousand years of history across four continents. In keeping with the Maison’s commitment to arts and culture, twelve masks from the Barbier-Mueller Museum’s collection are depicted through a sculpted gold plate on each watch dial. Hand-chiseled reliefs along with interplays of light and transparency capture the emotion of these centuries-old masks. Each piece is expertly equipped with a 2460 G4 beating heart caliber and features written poetry by Michel Butor to depict the civilization represented. The Gabon mask is on display, upon delving further into the dial, poetry encircles its edges and holds its own secret message.

A Powerful Perspective: These Waters

In keeping with the Maison’s longstanding support of artistic arts, as a centerpiece of “The Anatomy of Beauty®” exhibition in the Vacheron Constantin New York Flagship, stands These Waters (2022), an immersive sculptural installation created by New York artist Melissa McGill at the invitation of and with support from Vacheron Constantin. These Waters is composed of five large-scale photographs of New York’s Hudson River on glass.  Panels lean against each other and the wall, appearing to be portals into the waters, their size and placement evoking the rise and fall of the tides.  The artwork creates a stunning conversation between light, reflection, transparency, shadow and ephemerality. Intricate and glittering, These Waters aims to inspire conversation about the preciousness of water–our lifeforce. Through the language of water, viewers are reminded of being one with the natural world, not separate from it.

Inspiration From Nature

Nature produces its own perfection and beauty, one that is complex, organic and alive.  It is this natural perfection that Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from in the exhibition “The Anatomy of Beauty®”.  Much like the beauty found in nature, the care and detail in the Maison’s timepieces are so flawless that blowing them up to a huge and surreal scale is the only way to fully appreciate and admire them.  In “The Anatomy of Beauty®”, the attention, dedication and passion that Vacheron Constantin imbues in the minutest of details, is revealed through a lens of contemporary art and magnified imagery of the organic beauty found in our waters.

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ABOUT MELISSA McGILL

Melissa McGill is a New York based interdisciplinary artist known for ambitious, collaborative public art projects. They take the form of site-specific, immersive experiences that explore nuanced conversations between land, water, sustainable traditions, and the interconnectedness of all living things. At the heart of her work is a focus on community, meaningful shared experiences and lasting impact. Spanning a variety of media including performance, photography, painting, drawing, sculpture, sound, light, video and immersive installation, McGill has presented both independent public art projects and solo exhibitions nationally and internationally since 1991. She lives in Lenapehoking (Beacon, New York). Melissa McGill is a member of the Lenape Center Advisory Council and a National Endowment of the Arts ArtWorks Grant recipient. She is represented in the USA by TOTAH.

ABOUT VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in continuous production for over 265 years, faithfully perpetuating a proud heritage of watchmaking excellence and stylistic sophistication through generations of master craftsmen. At the pinnacle of Haute Horlogerie and understated elegance, the Maison creates timepieces with unique technical and aesthetic signatures, and an extremely high level of finishing touches. Vacheron Constantin brings to life unparalleled heritage and a spirit of innovation through its collections: Patrimony, Traditionnelle, Métiers d’Art, Overseas, Fiftysix, Historiques and Égérie. It also offers its discerning clientele of connoisseurs the rare opportunity to acquire unique and bespoke timepieces by means of its “Les Cabinotiers“ department.

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HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO

HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO – UNA NUEVA FORMA DE RELOJ TOMA FORMA EN WATCHES & WONDERS

Hublot presenta su propia interpretación del reloj cuadrado, una geometría totalmente nueva para el relojero. Inspirado en el icónico Big Bang de Maison, este Square Bang Unico agrega un nuevo pilar, ‘The Shaped Collection’ para sentarse junto al Spirit of Big Bang.

¿Hay algo que no se haya explorado en la relojería? Esta es la pregunta que se hace todos los días el departamento de I+D de Hublot. Cuando ha creado los materiales más resistentes, establecido las asociaciones más locas y desarrollado complicaciones extraordinarias, la respuesta suele ser muy simple… En la forma. Hublot actualmente domina tres: un reloj redondo, un reloj en forma de barril y los MP, esas ‘Master Pieces’ que tienen que se han liberado de todas las convenciones.

Hoy se ha creado una cuarta forma: el cuadrado. Su geometría hechizó a Hublot por los desafíos que plantea. Primero, el movimiento. Dado que cada calibre tiene la rueda como componente básico, necesita un movimiento redondo. Si va a colocar armoniosamente un movimiento redondo en una caja cuadrada, esto requiere un estilo muy específico. Esta es la razón por la que la mayoría de los relojeros ocultan su movimiento, para dar la ilusión de utilizar un movimiento con forma o porque no han podido encontrar un estilo estético consistente.

Hublot decidió tomar una dirección radicalmente diferente: el relojero no oculta nada de su propio movimiento Unico, el orgullo de los relojeros de Nyon y el corazón palpitante de la mayoría de sus diseños durante más de 10 años. El cronógrafo tiene una rueda de pilares visible a las 6 en punto, mientras que su pantalla bicompax prescinde de un dial, para revelar su funcionamiento interno secreto.

El segundo desafío fue la construcción modular de la caja, diseñada en línea con el ADN de Hublot, con una carcasa central vestida con una placa superior e inferior para permitir una gran variedad de combinaciones y transformaciones. Pero esta vez, tiene forma cuadrada y, por lo tanto, es mucho más difícil hacerlo resistente al agua: Hublot supera el desafío con una resistencia al agua garantizada hasta 100 metros. El tamaño de la caja también es un factor importante para que este modelo sea perfectamente ergonómico, proporcionando una comodidad en la muñeca muy similar a la del Big Bang de 42 mm. Su pedigrí del ícono de la marca se puede ver en innumerables detalles.

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En primer lugar, está la construcción tipo sándwich de su esfera, que le otorga diferentes niveles de profundidad y un toque muy arquitectónico. Al igual que con el Big Bang, la esfera del Square Bang Unico hace un uso extensivo del zafiro para brindar una visión clara del movimiento Unico, y también reutiliza las mismas manecillas.

A continuación, encontramos los seis tornillos (funcionales) del bisel, colocados exactamente en los mismos lugares que en el Big Bang. A ambos lados del Square Bang, se encuentran las ‘orejas’ de la carcasa del Big Bang, que equilibran el diseño y protegen la carcasa. Para la correa, además del apreciado sistema One Click del Big Bang y su goma texturizada, los dos tornillos se fijan en el medio a modo de enganche. Finalmente, el Square Bang usa los mismos materiales que su predecesor, incluyendo titanio, cerámica y King Gold, sin mencionar el famoso acabado ‘All Black’.

Por último, una nueva correa decorada con ‘cuadrados de chocolate’ enfatiza aún más la identidad de Square Bang. Gracias a su sistema intercambiable (One Click), puede cambiar el aspecto de su reloj con un solo clic con una impresionante gama de correas de caucho, cocodrilo y, próximamente, de cuero suave al tacto.

Ya están disponibles cinco modelos de 42 mm. Los tres primeros son de titanio macizo, cerámica negra o King Gold. Los dos últimos combinan titanio o King Gold con un bisel de cerámica negra. Cada modelo viene con una correa de caucho negra y un cierre desplegable del mismo material que la caja. Estos originales diseños laten al ritmo del movimiento HUB1280 Unico Manufacture, un cronógrafo automático de 354 componentes, ajustado a 4 Hz (28.800 vib/h).

Como es habitual en Hublot, el acabado es intransigente y tiene un aire muy moderno: tornillos pulidos y arenados, corona de goma sobremoldeada, pulsadores decorados con ‘cuadrados de chocolate’ de goma, fondo satinado pulido y chapado en rodio o en oro 5N. Agujas plateadas, según modelo. La corona viene en caucho sobremoldeado. El patrón texturizado de la correa fue creado especialmente para Square Bang. Incluye cuatro filas (como los cuatro lados de la caja) de cuadrados elevados (como el bisel de la caja).

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Overseas tourbillon skeleton: Un soplo de aire fresco para una complicación emblemática

Overseas tourbillon skeleton: Un soplo de aire fresco para una complicación emblemática

  • Primer reloj tourbillon skeleton de la colección Overseas
  • Dos versiones en oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates y titanio grado 5 respectivamente 
  • Primer modelo Vacheron Constantin totalmente de titanio con brazalete integrado
  • Calibre Manufactura 2160 SQ, rediseñado y esqueletizado con un nuevo espiral con espiral Breguet

Ginebra, 30 de marzo de 2022 – El tourbillon, una de las complicaciones más emblemáticas de la Alta Relojería , se une a la colección Overseas en una versión esqueletizada. El Calibre Manufactura 2160 ha sido rediseñado para la ocasión con un espíritu contemporáneo, completamente calado. Disponible en oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates y titanio de grado 5, el primer modelo de Vacheron Constantin fabricado íntegramente en este metal, en versiones con brazalete integrado, este reloj se acompaña de una meticulosa atención al acabado del movimiento y la caja.

Vacheron Constantin continúa el espíritu viajero de los relojes Overseas con este nuevo modelo de esqueleto de tourbillon, el primero en esta colección lanzada en 1996. Bellamente aerodinámico con su movimiento totalmente calado; sofisticado con su caja robusta; rigurosamente disciplinado con su movimiento impulsado por tourbillon que garantiza una cómoda reserva de marcha de más de tres días, este reloj está diseñado para los mejores viajes, exactamente como lo haría sin duda François Constantin, el viajero incansable que firmó una alianza duradera con Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron en 1819. haberlo presentado.

El reloj se presenta en dos versiones, una en oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates y la otra en titanio grado 5. El modelo de titanio es el primero de la Maison fabricado íntegramente con este mismo metal, desde la corona hasta el bisel y desde el brazalete hasta la caja. El calibre de cuerda automática 2160 de la Manufactura que impulsa estos relojes ha sido completamente esqueletizado en un espíritu contemporáneo con un grado de atención al detalle que surge de una auténtica búsqueda estética celebrada a través del tema “Anatomy of Beauty ®” de Vacheron Constantin para 2022.

Un movimiento finamente elaborado, Calibre Manufactura 2160 SQ

El trabajo de esqueletización llevado a cabo en el calibre automático 2160 ha permitido no solo una reducción del 20 % en el peso del movimiento, sino también un replanteamiento completo de su arquitectura. Su curvatura es, por tanto, muy esbelta, con apenas 5,65 mm de espesor, una verdadera hazaña técnica teniendo en cuenta los requisitos vinculados a la integración de un carro de tourbillon. Esta delgadez se debe en particular a la elección de una masa oscilante periférica de oro, que también permite una visión completamente clara de la parte trasera del movimiento. Se puede admirar claramente el trabajo realizado en la placa base y los cuatro puentes, con el tratamiento superficial NAC (N-acetilcisteína) aplicado por electrólisis que le confiere un tinte gris antracita. Este toque contemporáneo dado al movimiento se mezcla perfectamente con la clásica alta relojería.acabados en forma de flancos dibujados a mano y biselados a mano con biseles pulidos para acentuar el juego de luces entre los componentes. La placa principal y los puentes también están delicadamente decorados para crear un acabado de ranuras muy finas y perfectamente horizontales. Tal preocupación por los detalles es un credo que sostiene que incluso la parte más pequeña merece la misma atención meticulosa que las que son perfectamente visibles.

El mismo tratamiento de superficie NAC se puede encontrar en el barril, cuyo tambor y tapa han sido completamente calados, creando una forma de rosa de los vientos en el lado de la esfera, otra característica original del Calibre 2160 SQ. Para completar el calado de este movimiento de 186 componentes, las ruedas también se han aligerado, mientras que el tourbillon está sostenido por un puente superior redondeado. El regulador del tourbillon, que gira una vez por minuto, funciona a una velocidad de 18.000 alternancias por hora (2,5 Hz) y sirve de pequeño segundero mediante uno de los cuatro tornillos de fijación del carro, que es gris en la versión de oro rosa y flameado en la versión de titanio.

Para este nuevo calibre, los relojeros de Vacheron Constantin también han rediseñado el órgano regulador alojado en el carro del tourbillon junto con el escape. Se diseñó internamente un nuevo resorte de equilibrio, equipado con una bobina Breguet (curva terminal). Al plegar la espiral exterior del resorte hacia el centro, fuera de su plano horizontal, esta disposición fuerza un desarrollo plano del resorte, asegurando así un mejor isocronismo.

El arte de los detalles

El cristal de zafiro que sirve como esfera revela todos los detalles del calibre, como una anatomía relojera que toma forma con cada componente. Los índices fijados a este cristal son de oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates con baño de rodio o de oro blanco de 18 quilates, según el modelo. Los mismos metales nobles se utilizan para las agujas que, al igual que los índices horarios, están recubiertas de Super-LumiNova®, lo que garantiza una perfecta visibilidad nocturna. El aro de la esfera está disponible en oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N lacado en negro o en oro blanco de 18 quilates con tratamiento de PVD azul.

Se ha prestado especial atención al acabado de la caja y el brazalete. El anillo del bisel tiene un cepillado satinado circular en la versión de oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates y pulido con chorro de arena en la iteración de titanio de grado 5. La caja y el brazalete de ambos modelos están satinados verticalmente con ángulos pulidos en los eslabones del brazalete, cuya forma está inspirada en el emblema de la Cruz de Malta de Vacheron Constantin.

Ambos relojes cuentan con el sistema de correa intercambiable específico de la colección Overseas. Se presentan con dos correas de piel de becerro y caucho: negra con dos hebillas ardillón de oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates para el modelo dorado; y azul con cierre desplegable de titanio intercambiable para el modelo de titanio.

La Anatomía de la Belleza ®

El reloj Overseas tourbillon skeleton presenta una arquitectura y acabados meticulosos en cada detalle, lo que refleja la búsqueda de la excelencia apreciada por la Maison, cuyo tema “Anatomy of Beauty®” de 2022 rinde homenaje al extraordinario trabajo de sus artesanos. Este cuidado extraordinariamente minucioso se expresa a través de las elecciones y preferencias estéticas de los diseñadores, así como en el minucioso trabajo de acabado realizado por los artesanos. Todos los componentes de un reloj Vacheron Constantin se benefician de esta atención escrupulosa, incluso aquellos que permanecen invisibles una vez que se ha ensamblado el movimiento. Un buen ojo notará el fino trabajo guilloché en un dial o la escala de minutos engastada con gemas; distinguirá los contornos de la Maisonemblema de la cruz de Malta en los eslabones de una pulsera; notará el pequeño tornillo azulado que sirve como indicador de segundos en un carro de tourbillon y el brillo de espejo de un martillo repetidor de minutos; apreciará el toque delicado de los artesanos al biselar una placa o redondear un puente; y, por último, admirará la pintura de esmalte en miniatura que representa un barco sacudido por un mar tormentoso salpicado de rayos. En Vacheron Constantin, la preocupación por los detalles da forma con delicadeza a una anatomía de la belleza en la que nada se deja al azar.***********************

Resumir

Varias “primicias” caracterizan el nuevo modelo Overseas tourbillon skeleton. Es el primer reloj de la colección equipado con un movimiento tourbillon en una versión esqueletizada. El nuevo Calibre Manufactura 2160 SQ, con acabados artesanales característicos de la alta relojeríapero en un espíritu contemporáneo, está equipado con un órgano de regulación original que presenta una espiral con una bobina Breguet. El calado del cuerpo revela una tapa con forma de rosa de los vientos, un diseño novedoso para Vacheron Constantin. Disponible en oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates y titanio de grado 5, esta última versión es el primer reloj Vacheron Constantin fabricado íntegramente en este metal, incluidos el bisel y la corona. Este soplo de aire fresco, totalmente en consonancia con el espíritu viajero de la colección Overseas, va acompañado de una meticulosa atención al acabado del movimiento y de la caja. Cada componente se reelabora y se acaba a mano, ilustrando a la perfección el tema Anatomía de la belleza de Maison para 2022, que destaca toda la riqueza y sutileza de los detalles que aparecen en un reloj Vacheron Constantin.

DATOS TÉCNICOS

Referencia
6000V/110R-B934
6000V/110T-B935

Calibre
2160 SQ
Desarrollado y fabricado por Vacheron Constantin
Mecánico, automático, rotor periférico
31 mm (13½””) de diámetro, 5,65 mm de grosor
Aproximadamente 80 horas de reserva de
marcha 2,5 Hz (18.000 vibraciones por hora)
186 componentes
30 rubíes
Distintivo de Reloj certificado de Ginebra.

Indicaciones                                   
Horas, minutos, segundero pequeño en carro de tourbillon (tornillo de color)
Tourbillon                            

Caja                                                
Oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates / Titanio de grado 5
42,5 mm de diámetro, 10,39 mm de grosor
Anillo de la caja de hierro dulce que garantiza protección antimagnética Fondo de caja de
cristal de zafiro transparente Hermeticidad
probada a una presión de 5 bar (aprox. 50 metros)

marcar
zafiro

Índices y agujas de horas y minutos de oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N/oro blanco de 18 quilates resaltados con Super-LumiNova®

Brazalete Brazalete
de oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N / Titanio grado 5 (eslabones en forma de media cruz de Malta pulidos y satinados), asegurado con un cierre desplegable de tres hojas de oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N / Titanio grado 5 con pulsadores y sistema de ajuste cómodo

Correas adicionales
Piel de becerro negra/azul con pespuntes blancos Goma
negra/azul

Hebillas
6000V/110R-B934: cada correa adicional viene con un cierre desplegable intercambiable de oro rosa 5N de 18 quilates
6000V/110T-B935: titanio de grado 5

Árbitro. 6000V/110T-B935 (versión de titanio) solo disponible a través de las Boutiques Vacheron Constantin.

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El último destello de brillantez del UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey URWERK

EL ÚLTIMO DESTELLO DE BRILLANTEZ DEL UR-112 AGGREGAT ODYSSEY URWERK

La odisea agregada UR-112

El último destello de brillantez de URWERK

En medio de los cielos tranquilos y serenos de la Alta Relojería , un objeto volador no identificado se vislumbra en el horizonte. ¿Será el anuncio de una convulsión inminente? ¿La intuición de un cataclismo emocional?

Destellando en el cielo nocturno, ¡el nuevo UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey aparece en una lluvia de metal! La última evolución del UR-112 presenta un nuevo fuselaje de titanio y acero. Con esta edición limitada, URWERK, creador de los relojes ‘space opera’, empuja sus límites más allá que nunca… ¡hasta el infinito y más allá!

reluciente como el J-type 327 de Padme Amidala; equipado con dos grandes ventanas redondas en forma de ojo como Archie; el ‘barco búho’ de Watchmen . Aerodinámico como un ave de rapiña klingon. Acanalado como el casco del Battlestar Galactica . El UR-112 Aggregat Odyssée surge del astillero URWERK en una edición limitada, que presenta una infinidad de superficies planas, curvas, ranuradas, esculpidas, atornilladas y encoladas, todas incorporando avanzados acabados que alternan entre mate y brillante, arenado y pulido. Este trabajo minucioso y meticuloso contribuye a realzar las dos grandes cabinas donde operan los prismas giratorios que representan la firma única del UR-112, similares a dos puestos de observación avanzados.

Texturas sofisticadas

El UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey es el sucesor del UR-112 Aggregat Two-Tone . La parte superior de esta nave espacial de muñeca es adecuada para pulir. La cubierta de acero ranurado se abre verticalmente para dar acceso a la reserva de marcha secundaria y a las indicaciones digitales de los segundos. Está pulido como un espejo en la parte superior con un borde pulido con chorro de arena. Su cuerpo central de titanio está satinado, estriado, arenado y granallado, formando así un campo de micropuntos funcionales. Las dos alas de acero del UR-112 Odyssey encajan en este cuerpo central.

Cada zona, cada espacio, cada elemento tiene su propia textura, su propio acabado, su propio lenguaje. Martin Frei, cofundador de URWERK y diseñador jefe, dijo: “Tengo la suerte de experimentar el nacimiento de nuestras creaciones de primera mano, en los talleres y muy cerca de nuestros relojeros. Soy testigo de la asamblea final. Veo que el material cobra vida y, lo que es más importante, acabados que solo existían en mi mente se materializan ante mis ojos. Al igual que los trazos de lápiz que dibujan y refinan los contornos del reloj en el papel, las huellas del mecanizado en el titanio y el acero hacen visible su proceso creativo. Luego se necesita toda la magia y el dominio de la mano del artesano para traducir esta emoción en el producto terminado, que es granallado, cepillado satinado y pulido. En el caso del UR-112, este fue un proceso particularmente largo y difícil, una verdadera odisea, que nos permitió convertir la fuerza de la materia prima en el refinamiento del producto terminado. “

Secuencia digital

El UR-112 pertenece a la línea de Proyectos Especiales. Esta es una desviación del concepto fundacional de la indicación de horas errantes de URWERK, en una escala completamente nueva. No hay cubos, ni carrusel con brazos, ni indicación de tipo de sector de 120 grados como en tantos modelos que han marcado la historia de URWERK en los últimos 25 años. La odisea agregada UR-112muestra las horas saltantes y los minutos finales en prismas. Desplazados hacia la parte delantera del reloj, son visibles en sus grandes carcasas de cristal de zafiro. A medida que las horas saltan por un lado y los minutos avanzan en incrementos de cinco minutos por el otro, un indicador adicional muestra los minutos exactos. Felix Baumgartner, cofundador de URWERK y maestro relojero, dijo: “Una vez más, hemos dejado que nuestras agallas hablen por nosotros al hacer una nave espacial, un OVNI que es un desafío técnico. Este UR-112 es pura locura en cuanto a la mecánica y los acabados. Solo podremos hacer un número muy limitado y puede haber solo cinco de ellos, ¡pero esto es puro placer relojero sin adulterar!”

corazón del reactor

El cuerpo central de la caja contiene los elementos impulsores y reguladores del calibre UR-13.01: un gran barrilete que proporciona 48 horas de reserva de marcha, acoplado a un rotor de cuerda automática. Presionando los dos pulsadores a los lados del reloj se abre la tapa para revelar el indicador de reserva de marcha y el espectacular segundero pequeño. Este último está compuesto por un disco de silicio esqueletizado unido a un puente de aluminio anodizado rojo, una característica de diseño típica de URWERK.

Módulo espacio-temporal

Una vara larga y delgada se destaca en medio de este increíble recipiente. Con varios centímetros de longitud, es posiblemente el componente más largo de la relojería contemporánea. Para garantizar su ligereza y rigidez, este eje cardán está fabricado en titanio y asegura el acoplamiento con el módulo de visualización, situado en la parte delantera de la carcasa. Establece este vínculo gracias a una nueva sucesión de engranajes que accionan los prismas de horas y minutos a través de dos engranajes cónicos de 90°. Los prismas de aluminio negro con lados acanalados están mejorados con Super-LumiNova TM y están asegurados por sistemas planetarios que aseguran que giren tanto sobre su eje como en el espacio. Este enfoque cinemático exige una precisión absoluta y contribuye a dotar al UR-112 Aggregat Odysseycon un diseño totalmente único y poco convencional. ¡Así que URWERK!

Unidad Odisea UR-112

Edición limitada

Precio: CHF 250.000,00 (francos suizos / sin impuestos)

MOVIMIENTO

Calibre: UR-13.01 automático
Joyas: 66
Escape: tipo palanca suiza
Frecuencia: 4 Hz; 28.800 vph
Reserva de poder: 48 horas
Materiales Prismas satelitales de horas y minutos de aluminio; cardán de titanio, segunda rueda de silicio
Acabado de superficies: Graneado circular, arenado, Côtes de Genève, cabezas de tornillo pulidas
INDICACIONES  Horas digitales saltantes y minutos digitales finales en prismas satelitales; segundos digitales de silicio; indicador de reserva de marcha 
CASO
Dimensiones: Ancho 42 mm; longitud 51 mm; espesor 16mm
Materiales titanio, acero
Vidrio cristal de zafiro
Resistencia al agua Presión probada a 3 ATM / 100 pies / 30 m

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ROGER DUBUIS – Paints Downtown Red

UNA HISTORIA DE ARTESANÍA LEGENDARIA
LOS CABALLEROS DE LA MESA REDONDA

Pasión. Compromiso. Audacia. Los códigos de caballería pueden tener miles de años, pero sus virtudes siguen vivas en la mente de muchos. Por eso la excelencia sigue siendo el objetivo de Roger Dubuis. Sin embargo, la misión final de la Maison es su búsqueda perpetua para desafiar las reglas del juego y, como resultado, representar el futuro de Hyper Horology.

Esta mentalidad se lleva a nuevas alturas para la última evolución de la icónica colección Knights of the Round Table. Estableciendo un nuevo estándar, el reloj está adornado con un dominio artístico excepcional, una artesanía sobresaliente y una creatividad desenfrenada. Infundido con el legado de una leyenda, pero diseñado pensando en el futuro, es una declaración poderosa para el aquí y ahora. Para el usuario moderno que entiende cómo la fuerza del pasado crea poder en el presente y más allá. Pero esta historia de artesanía legendaria no se puede contar a cualquiera. Es un privilegio reservado a unos pocos. Los que saben. ¿Te atreves a descubrirlo? Tome asiento en la mesa.

FORJANDO UN MITO A TRAVÉS DE LA ARTESANÍA MODERNA

La amenaza es real. La batalla está en marcha. En las misteriosas profundidades de un lugar olvidado, doce valientes caballeros se preparan para defender su reino contra el poder de la fuerza gravitacional. El suelo se está fracturando, la tierra rota comienza a resquebrajarse. Sintiendo el peligro, los caballeros se posicionan contra este enemigo invisible. ¿Triunfarán?

Dando vida a una leyenda de la manera más emocionante hasta el momento, los caballeros marcados con doce horas fundidos en oro rosa de 18k 750/1000 están diseñados para aparecer en movimiento en sus propias posturas únicas. Esta es la verdadera proeza de la artesanía hiperexpresiva que llevó un año y medio dominar. A través del complejo arte de la microescultura, cada personaje se completa con una armadura, placas, escudo y casco medievales, mientras que sus armas personalizadas están preparadas para luchar contra lo que surja bajo sus pies. Aquí se encuentra la etapa que requirió el armado manual a mano de todas y cada una de las piezas del rompecabezas de vidrio. Con detalles finos tan intrincados como este, Roger Dubuis prácticamente demuestra sus credenciales de métiers d’art. Un honor, como el de los caballeros, reservado a unos pocos, sea cual sea la época en la que se encuentre.

Simbolizando una escena imaginaria en la que los caballeros se preparan para defenderse de un peligro inminente, cada guerrero se asienta contra un borde rojo sangre transparente desarrollado a partir del precioso cristal de Murano. Esta rareza artesanal también se utiliza para construir la textura oscura y brillante de la esfera negra. Como parte de la gran tradición veneciana, el cristal de Murano desvía la luz de formas singularmente modernas e interesantes.

ARMADO CON MAESTRÍA HOROLÓGICA

El evolucionado reloj Knights of the Round Table fusiona una leyenda del pasado con claves de diseño futurista para producir un emblema carismático para el presente. Impulsado por un calibre automático Monobalancier RD821, su nuevo acabado y diseño contemporáneos incluye una caja de corte limpio hecha de un rico y notable oro rosa de 18k 750/1000. Así como los ferozmente valientes caballeros son leales a su juramento del deber, la Maison es leal a la artesanía hiperexpresiva. De hecho, mantener los más altos estándares de excelencia incluyó el acabado a mano de todas las partes de este movimiento de 45 mm con un cuidado meticuloso y de acuerdo con los criterios del Poinçon de Genève; uno de los sellos de certificación más exclusivos de la relojería actual.

Mientras tanto, la corona y su protector tienen la forma intencional de la protección de una espada, diseñada para parecer como si una cuchilla estuviera atascada dentro del reloj, al igual que la espada Excalibur en la piedra por la que Arturo fue coronado rey.

Para aprovechar al máximo los finos detalles del caballero, un nuevo anillo de cristal de zafiro transparente debajo del bisel ofrece una vista completa de sus elaboradas facetas. Ahora, los coleccionistas más exigentes están invitados en secreto a disfrutar de todos los aspectos de sus características con esta vista hiperexclusiva disponible solo para ellos.

En la parte posterior de la caja, el peso oscilante está completamente rediseñado con un acabado circular compuesto por dos capas tejidas de formas piramidales inclinadas que crean la apariencia de una vidriera de castillo. Inspirada en las muescas triangulares alrededor del borde del reloj, esta sofisticada elección de diseño brinda una vista fascinante del peso que se mueve dentro del mosaico. Alrededor de la pantalla, un grabado del famoso juramento pronunciado, según cuenta la leyenda, por todos los caballeros que buscaron defender al Rey Arturo dice: “Alrededor de esta mesa, los caballeros más valientes se reunirán como iguales. Partirán en busca de aventuras, corrigiendo errores, protegiendo a los débiles y humillando a los orgullosos”. Honrando este sentimiento mítico, pero diseñado para marcar las señales del mundo moderno, el usuario puede apoyarse en una leyenda del pasado para darle poder en el presente.

Una correa de piel de becerro negra, la primera de la colección Knights of the Round Table que cuenta con un sistema de liberación rápida, permite una fácil intercambiabilidad, al tiempo que completa la apariencia lujosa de este reloj legendario apto para el guerrero de hoy.

Solo unos pocos privilegiados tienen el honor de llevar un reloj de los Caballeros de la Mesa Redonda de Roger Dubuis; un reloj hiperexpresivo que combina el poder, el mito y el saber hacer del pasado y el mundo moderno. Es por eso que la escasez debe reinar cuando se trata de artesanías como esta. Con una serie limitada de 28 piezas disponibles exclusivamente en las boutiques de Roger Dubuis, ¿te convertirás en uno de los pocos afortunados?

Un secreto desenterrado, una valiente búsqueda emprendida. Pero una leyenda no muere tan fácilmente, y el peligro tampoco. ¿Qué más podría surgir de las profundidades más profundas? Continuará….

SIN REGLAS. NUESTRO JUEGO.

ABOUT ROGER DUBUIS

El subidón de adrenalina, los latidos del corazón, el conocimiento seguro y cierto de que algo está a punto de suceder: ENTRA EN EL FUTURO DE LA HIPER RELOJERÍA. Impertinente, excesivo, incisivo, intransigente y un poco loco, así es Roger Dubuis. Sólidamente sostenido por una Manufactura integrada, un espíritu innovador, un flagrante desprecio por lo convencional y una audacia incontenible son las piedras angulares de su actitud inconteniblemente audaz; el alma de sus relojes inconformistas e inequívocamente contemporáneos. ¡De eso se trata Roger Dubuis! Ríe, grita, ruge y, sobre todo, crea… para una tribu exclusiva que cree en el valor de vivir a lo grande en todo momento. Inspirándose en otras industrias de vanguardia y diseños innovadores, la sofisticación técnica que supera los límites combinada con una pasión innata por la extravagancia para demostrar, una y otra vez, que Roger Dubuis es, sin duda, la forma más emocionante de experimentar Hyper Horology. .

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