Tag Archive for: timepiece

Bamford Watch Department x Arsham x King Nerd

Franck Muller Casablanca

Limited Edition

This unique Franck Muller Casablanca personifies the spirit of collaboration and joint artistry with renowned modern artist Daniel Arsham and expert engraver King Nerd, Johnny Dowell, joining forces with Bamford Watch Department on this limited edition.

The style of the Casablanca blends perfectly with the creative ingenuity of Arsham, King Nerd and Bamford Watch Department. Dynamic, contemporary and classic, it is an enchanting model which has been redesigned with an intricacy of detail.

With a striking Arsham Studio Green dial and seconds hand, the Arsham Studio Monogram repeats throughout the design; from the printed dial to the embossed leather strap and hand engraving by King Nerd on the case of the watch. The caseback has also been engraved with an eroded Arsham Studio ‘A’ along with a CASABLANCA logo inspired by the film of the same name.

“It has been amazing to work with two great friends on the canvas of an iconic watch from a brand which resonates with us all. As always, Daniel Arsham and King Nerd brought something special and unique to the project and I am so proud to work with them on this Franck Muller Casablanca.”

George Bamford, Bamford Watch Department “I have always been inspired by the art world and I was naturally very happy to learn that Daniel Arsham was keen to interpret his art into one of our iconic models, the Casablanca. The result is astonishing and I am delighted with this exciting collaboration with Bamford Watch Department.” Nicholas Rudaz, COO, Franck Muller 5-piece limited edition, housed in a unique outer box which continues the Arsham Studio ‘A’ monogram design. Pricing available on request and available from Bamford Watch Department.

www.bamfordwatchdepartment.com @bamfordwatchdepartment
Daniel Arsham says, “I’ve always liked the Franck Muller Casablanca and this project actually started by asking George if he could make one custom for me. As we were talking about all of the different details on it, things got more and more intricate and complex. I started thinking about ideas for engraving onto the case and how we could work with Johnny and integrate the original design ethos of the dial with the Arsham Studio monogram. We wrapped the Arsham Studio Monogram all the way around the watch, from the dial to the embossed leather strap, into the case itself, with the engraving all done by hand. It’s a project that we’ve been talking about and working on for probably two years now and it is finally complete to share with the world.”

FRANCK MULLER | Vanguard Collection

FRANCK MULLER | Vanguard Collection

Distinguished by a sporty tonneau shape, the Vanguard™ calls in for clean and futuristic aesthetics with a one-of-a kind design. With refined taste, inserts on both sides of the case tastefully match the color on the numerals and strap for utmost elegance and style.

The strap is cleverly integrated inside the case in order to maintain and extend the curved aspect of the timepiece, the resultbeing a stunning timepiece with a unique design.

Reference V 45 S6 SQT (NR)

Case Vanguard case
Stainless Steel
Hand polished
Black inserts on both sides of the case
Width: 44 mm x Length: 53.7 mm x Thickness: 12.7 mm
Sapphire crystal
Water resistant up to 30 meters
Functions Hours, Minutes, Seconds at 6 o’clock
Instructions Winding shaft with 2 positions: 1.Winding. 2.Time setting
Movement MVT FM 1740-VS
Manual winding movement
Power reserve of 7 days
175 components
21 jewels
Width: 37.05 mm. Length: 40.20 mm. Thickness: 6.00mm
Balance wheel frequency set at 18,000 alternations per hour
Two barrels
Skeleton movement
Movement
Decoration
Hand chamfering on the flanks of the main plate and on the bridges
Microblasting and satin finishing on the bridges and on the main plate
Circular brushing on the wheels
Bracelet Hand sewn alligator strap
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle
Hand polished

Luxury like no other new The Jacob & Co. x Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is a timepiece Incredible

Four new editions reflect Bugatti design, energy and craftsmanship in a timepiece to honor the iconic Chiron.

Think of all the things that come with the Bugatti sensation: precision, beauty, performance… all linked by the beating heart of the engine that powers the most advanced hyper sports cars in the world. Introduced in April 2020, the Jacob & Co. x Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is a timepiece that brings together the most important feelings that are synonymous with the Bugatti brand, as the iconic 16-cylinder Bugatti engine comes to life in timepiece form for the first time. Representing the artistry, dedication and skill portrayed by the Chiron1, four new editions of the timepiece have been revealed as the pinnacle of the automotive industry meets the height of watchmaking.

Intricately designed and crafted with extraordinary detail, the four new Chiron Tourbillon watch editions epitomize Bugatti in every way. The timepiece features a stunning movement in all versions of the watch, comprising 578 components and marrying engine and watch design in one astonishing creation. Displayed as an engine block, scaled down as a true descendent of the famous 8.0-litre W16 engine, the on-demand engine animation is placed under a huge sapphire crystal. In addition, powering the timepiece is a flying tourbillon movement, inclined at 30 degrees.

These new versions of the Chiron Tourbillon are reimagined with new material choices for ultimate personalization. Inspired by the flowing lines of the Chiron, the overall shape of this stunning timepiece is shaped to suit its automotive counterpart. The first option is made of a solid block of sapphire crystal with a sapphire crystal caseback, using sapphire crystal for the crowns and pushers, and secured on the wrist by a rubber strap with a titanium buckle clasp. The second possibility – limited to 72 pieces – features an 18-karat Rose Gold case, with a special anti-reflective sapphire crystal, an 18-karat Rose Gold open caseback and black DLC titanium crowns and pushers embossed with the Bugatti logo. This version includes a rubber strap with a black DLC titanium and 18-karat Rose Gold buckle clasp.

Limited to 52 pieces, another option features a case made of 18-karat Rose Gold material, set with sparkling white diamonds, with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, plus an 18-karat Rose Gold open caseback and crowns and pushers made of 18-karat Rose Gold and set with baguette white diamonds – again embossed with the Bugatti logo – and secured by a rubber strap with an 18-karat Rose Gold buckle clasp decorated with white diamonds. Finally, the version with a case made of 18-karat White Gold set with 391 black and white diamonds (approximately 20 carats) is the definition of premium luxury. The 18-karat White Gold open caseback is matched by crowns and pushers set with baguette white diamonds, with the rubber strap and an18-karat White Gold buckle clasp set with 18 white diamonds (approximately 1.76 carats).

A Bugatti experience for the wrist

The representation of the iconic Bugatti engine begins once the right-hand crown of the timepiece is pushed. Just like the engine in the hyper sports car would come to life, the ‘crankshaft’ in the watch – one of the smallest and most complicated watch parts ever manufactured, made out of solid steel – turns and the ‘pistons’ pump up and down, mounted at varying angles to add to the complexity. A pair of ‘turbochargers’ on the side of the engine block spin while the powertrain runs, adding to the overall spectacle.

The movement is held in place in four places by miniature Chiron-style shock absorbers. The movement is, in fact, floating inside the case and can be observed moving slightly up and down. This suspension detail created an additional challenge for the watch designers, who had to create and patent a unique automotive-inspired transverse system to ensure the crown posts aren’t damaged by the movement in the case.

The crowns are found at the bottom of the case. The left crown sets the time, the middle crown winds the movement and animation for 60 hours of power reserve, while the push of the right-hand crown starts the animation. The power reserve for the animation and timekeeping are separate, yet both are wound through the winding crown – clockwise for the movement (60 hours), counterclockwise for the engine animation (approximately three activations). The power reserve for the movement even features the universal gas pump symbol on the side of the gauge.

As an interpretation of a Bugatti icon, the timepiece naturally remains true to the company’s design DNA and also conveys its emotionality. Beyond the flying tourbillon with the Jacob & Co. logo, a subtle ‘EB’ logo from Bugatti adorns the engine compartment, where the ‘crankshaft’ holds 16 pistons, all poised and ready for action. The window to the tourbillon is modeled on the horseshoe grille so iconic in Bugatti hyper sports cars.

For the first time ever in the world of watchmaking, the Jacob & Co. x Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon seamlessly marries hyper sports cars and haute horlogerie.

CHIRON:

Fuel consumption, l/100km: urban 36.7 / extra-urban 15.8 / combined 23.5; combined CO2 emissions, g/km: 553; efficiency class: G* [WLTP: Fuel consumption, l/100km: low 43.33 / medium 22.15 / high 17.99 / particularly high 18.28 / combined 22.32; CO2 emissions, combined, g / km: 505.61; efficiency class: G]

 

 

jlc-master-ut-tourbillon-moon-q1692410-front2

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Master Ultra Thin uniting a moon phase display with a tourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin collection epitomises the Manufacture’s philosophy of uniting technical virtuosity with enduring beauty, and in 2020 it is enriched by the new Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon. The new timepiece combines two of horology’s most cherished complications for the first time in the Maison’s long history – a moon phase and a tourbillon, with the addition of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature peripheral ‘jumping’ date. Making its debut in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the new self-winding Calibre 983.

The tourbillon was invented at the dawn of the 19th Century, to counteract the negative impact of gravity on the escapements of pocket watches and thus increase accuracy. However, in the 20th century, as pocket watches were superseded by wrist watches, the tourbillon became largely forgotten. In 1946, as part of its continuous research into timekeeping precision, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a tourbillon movement, Calibre 170. Housed in a pocket watch, it was intended for chronometry trials – and in 1948 won first prize in the Neuchâtel Observatory centennial trials, followed by several more prizes during the 1950s. In 1993 – a time when tourbillon wristwatches were still very rare – Jaeger-LeCoultre produced its first example, a Reverso fitted with the rectangular Calibre 828. Further exploration brought the tourbillon to new horizons, leading to the invention of the first spherical, dual-axis tourbillon in 2004 – the Master Gyrotourbillon 1.

In 2009, the Manufacture introduced the Master Tourbillon with Calibre 978, which won the International Chronometry Prize organised by the Horological Museum of Le Locle, Switzerland. This calibre has been Jaeger-LeCoultre mainstay tourbillon movement ever since, and received a comprehensive update in 2019 featuring new high-end finishes.

For the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers capitalised on the 978 movement to develop the new Calibre 983, with the addition of the moon phase and ‘jumping’ date complications.

The triple moon phase indicator – displaying the age of the moon as well as its phases in both Hemispheres – is also a recent development, having been introduced last year. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the new Calibre 983 offers a power reserve of 45 hours.

Timeless style and a new pink gold alloy

The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is presented in a case made of Le Grand Rose gold. Introduced this year, the new pink gold alloy has a remarkable sheen and depth of colour, and is highly resistant to fading over time. True to the classically elegant design codes of Master Ultra Thin, the case is fully polished, with elongated and bevelled lugs and a fine bezel.

Complementing the warmth of the pink gold, an eggshell-white dial provides a restrained backdrop that places all the emphasis on the moon phase display and tourbillon. Adding to the sense of refinement, the shape of the Dauphine hands is echoed by the elongated arrow-shape of the applied golden indexes. Closer examination reveals different index profiles as the shapes are modified according to their position on the dial, as well as several key details marked in red, to increase legibility and add a discreet touch of colour.

Original and intriguing displays

Set in the upper half of the dial, the astronomical complication displays the Northern Hemisphere moon phases in the traditional way – a deep blue sky scattered with stars provides the background for a polished golden disc. Surrounding this is a ring with applied Southern Hemisphere moon phases on the left and the Age of the Moon on the right, each indicated by a double-ended hand.

For the peripheral date display the Manufacture’s engineers chose Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature ‘jumping’ complication. Every month, the date hand makes 90-degree jump, gliding rapidly from the 15th to the 16th, in order not to obscure the tourbillon.

The lower half of the dial is dominated by the tourbillon. A newly designed bridge in polished pink gold secures the titanium tourbillon cage (which weighs around 0.3 grams with its components) as it completes one revolution every 60 seconds. The fine tourbillon bridge and wide aperture maximise transparency and light, drawing the eye right through the mechanism.

On the reverse side, the long span of the open-worked tourbillon bridge further enhances this transparency, while its Côtes de Genève decoration complements the sunray pattern of the stripes on the main plate. The open-worked pink gold winding rotor, which features the JL logo and a combination of polished and micro-blasted surfaces, allows a clear view of the movement, with additional fine finishes including blue screws, circular graining and chamfered bridges.

Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon carries an eight-year warranty in addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification – one of the watch industry’s most stringent testing protocols.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Dimensions: 41.5mm x 12.10mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 983, 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, peripheral ‘jumping’ date (from the 15th to the 16th), tourbillon, moon phases in both Hemispheres and age-of-moon indicator

Power reserve: 45 hours

Case: Le Grand Rose gold

Dial: eggshell with applied indexes and Dauphine hands

Case-back: open

Water resistance: 5 bar

Reference: Q1692410

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Un OMEGA Trésor en oro con una nueva pulsera de malla

Se han añadido tres nuevas incorporaciones a la popular línea Trésor de OMEGA, cada una elaborada con el oro Moonshine ™ de 18 quilates de la marca. Para las mujeres que adoran el estilo esbelto y la simplicidad de esta colección, es una oportunidad para elevar aún más los niveles de lujo y elegir un reloj que brille con una belleza excepcional.
An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Los nuevos modelos tienen un tamaño de 36 mm y las cajas están hechas completamente de oro Moonshine ™ de 18 quilates. Presentada por primera vez en 2019, esta aleación distintiva está inspirada en la luz de la luna en un cielo azul oscuro. Ofrece un tono más pálido que el oro amarillo tradicional de 18 quilates y también tiene una alta resistencia a la decoloración y brillo con el tiempo.

Otra característica nueva de Trésor es la incorporación de brazaletes de malla. Confeccionadas con un patrón similar a la seda, estas correas de estilo clásico se ajustan elegante y cómodamente alrededor de la muñeca, y son las primeras pulseras de metal de la colección.

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

An OMEGA Trésor in Gold With a New Mesh Bracelet

Los relojes vienen con una garantía completa de 5 años y se ofrecen en tres opciones únicas:

– Un modelo con esfera de oro Moonshine ™ de 18 quilates con patrón de seda en relieve y números romanos.
– Un modelo con esfera blanca, con números romanos en relieve en oro Moonshine ™ de 18 quilates.
– Un modelo con esfera en oro blanco de 18 quilates con baño de rodio, totalmente pavimentada con un engaste de nieve de 768 diamantes talla única. Las marcas aparecen en el cristal frontal.

Como siempre, cada Trésor se define por los 38 diamantes de talla completa que se curvan a lo largo de los lados de la caja, así como un diamante de talla completa adicional engastado en la corona, que a su vez está grabada con una flor OMEGA y llena de líquido rojo. cerámico.

Dando la vuelta a los relojes, el OMEGA Calibre 4061 se encuentra justo detrás de los fondos de espejo pulidos que están adornados con un patrón metalizado único.

 

FRANCK MULLER - Lady Master Square

FRANCK MULLER

Lady Master Square

The Master Square™ collection is all about the geometrical purity and symmetry of the lines giving the collection a perfectly balanced design.

Harmony and grace are the watchwords when it comes to describing the design of the Master Square. Placed under the sign of elegance and refinement, the Master Square features beautiful contours that are showcased on the wrist of ladies with style and personality.

This year, the House of Franck Muller is pleased to present a watch whose geometrical purity of line lends it a perfectly harmonious appearance. Once again the Franck Muller designers have drawn on Art Déco, the rigour of the shape of its case in fact follows the principles of architecture applied at that time.

 

The same concern for refined elegance is to be found on the dial – white painted Roman numerals adorning the black sun-stamped translucent dial and, vice versa, black painted numerals contrasting with a white background.

Harmony and balance best describe the design of the Master Square.

©Franck Muller Geneve
All rights reserved GFM Watchland SA

www.franckmuller.com

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre announces The Sound Maker exhibition in Chengdu, China

JAEGER-LECOULTRE ANNOUNCES THE SOUND MAKER EXHIBITION IN CHENGDU, CHINA
UNVEILING A NEWLY COMMISSIONED WORK BY RENOWNED SWISS ARTIST, ZIMOUN, AND EXPLORING A RICH HERITAGE OF CHIMING WATCHES

THE SOUND MAKER exhibition, a highlight of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s year-long celebration of the art of sound in watchmaking, will be inaugurated at Guangdong Hall, Chengdu, starting from November 10th. The exhibition will immerse visitors in the creative and cultural universe of Jaeger-LeCoultre, exploring the uniquely rich heritage – past, present and future – of chiming watches at La Grande Maison, and paying homage to its home in the Vallée de Joux, where the sounds of nature still provide the backdrop to daily life.

A New Art Commission Makes Its World Debut

At the heart of the exhibition, expanding the dialogue that exists between horology and art, a new ‘sound sculpture’ installation commissioned by Jaeger-LeCoultre from the Swiss contemporary artist, Zimoun, will be unveiled for the first time. After its debut in China, the installation will be exhibited around the world during 2021.
In this new work, Zimoun encapsulates the universe of sound – within the Manufacture and in the natural world around it – that is so intrinsic to the spirit of Jaeger-LeCoultre. He employs simple raw materials and repurposed industrial components, including watch parts – and, in doing so, redefines traditional ideas of sculpture, movement and sound, drawing the audience into an almost transcendent world of sensory experience.


“I first got hooked by the sound, like the soft, appeasing sound of the rain,” says Catherine Rénier, Chief Executive Officer of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “As you get closer, the movement of the metal is mesmerizing. Each angle gives a different feeling and invites you to stop, enjoy and listen.”


In the ability to conjure romance from mundane materials and to create evocative sounds through complex systems of structure and mechanics, there are clear parallels between the work of the artist and the watchmakers of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Just as the components of a watch movement seem to take on a life of their own when assembled, the industrially-produced elements that Zimoun combines into his sculptures seem to develop their own behaviour, producing new and unique sounds and visual effects.
When commissioning the new work, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited the artist to spend time in the Vallée de Joux, where he was able to absorb the valley’s natural sounds, and also spend time with the specialists who work on chiming watches within the Manufacture. The fruit of that rich exchange of culture and ideas, Zimoun’s new installation creates a unique aural signature for Jaeger-LeCoultre, evoking the sounds of nature and of the Manufacture, as well as capturing the rippling of light on the surface of the lake seen from the watchmaking ateliers.
The Story of Sound at Jaeger-LeCoultre


THE SOUND MAKER exhibition leads visitors on a journey through Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rich patrimony, celebrating the twin values of tradition and innovation that have guided it throughout its 187-year history. Featuring rare or unique timepieces curated from both historic and contemporary collections, as well as never-previously exhibited documents and artefacts, it traces the evolution of chiming watches from the Maison’s origins to the new 2020 models, and from the most refined minute repeaters and complex sonneries to the highly practical and much-loved Memovox alarm watch.

The journey begins with a retrospective of the earliest and most historically significant of the LeCoultre chiming masterworks – some of which have never been displayed to the public before; it highlights technical inventions and patents that have contributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s worldwide renown – and to its status as “the watchmakers’ watchmaker” among other great Maisons that it supplied with movements; it reveals the inner secrets of how chiming watches work; and it honours the skill of the artisans who employed their rare crafts to embellish the most precious timepieces.


Paying tribute to La Grande Maison’s home in the Vallée de Joux, the exhibition also features a captivating 8D video installation that immerses visitors in the natural soundscape of the valley and evokes the watchmakers’ deep connections to their peaceful surroundings.
THE SOUND MAKER exhibition will be presented from November 10th until November 22nd, at Guangdong Hall, Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li Chengdu, China.

ABOUT THE SOUND MAKER
In 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates THE SOUND MAKER, paying homage to the sounds of nature that form a backdrop to daily life in the Vallée de Joux, and to its great legacy of chiming timepieces, expressing a century and a half of accumulated expertise in fresh new ways. During the 150 years since the Manufacture developed its first minute repeater in 1870, chiming watches have been a particular forte, with 200 calibres demonstrating its mastery of all forms, from relatively simple alarms to highly complex sonneries and repeaters. In parallel, the Manufacture’s engineers and designers have patented numerous innovations that redefine the benchmark for acoustic quality and beauty.

Historiador Flameante

Apariencia clásica, ultradelgada y una pizca de calor havana

Cuervo y Sobrinos, la marca suiza con raíces cubanas, presenta una nueva edición de su clásico reloj Historiador Flameante con una hipnótica esfera salmón. Inspirado en un modelo original producido por Cuervo y Sobrinos en la década de 1950, el último Historiador Flameante luce una caja ultradelgada de estilo vintage y una esfera original de color salmón ‘flameante’ o ‘flaming’, una combinación diseñada para evocar el tempo dinámico de El Siglo de Oro de La Habana.

La Habana en la década de 1950 era una isla exótica para la alta sociedad y las celebridades. De día, la prestigiosa boutique de relojes Cuervo y Sobrinos en el centro de La Habana atraía a visitantes ilustres como Caruso, Hemingway y Churchill; de noche, las estrellas de Hollywood y la jet-set acudían en masa a Floridita para tomar cócteles y al club nocturno Tropicana hasta el amanecer. Como marca con auténtica herencia cubana, los relojes producidos por Cuervo y Sobrinos evocan esta atmósfera de hedonismo lujoso.

Disponible en acero inoxidable, la caja del Historiador Flameante tiene un diámetro de 40 mm y una altura ultrafina de solo 6,2 mm, un reloj de vestir perfectamente proporcionado que se deslizará discretamente bajo el puño de una camisa. Las audaces orejetas sobresalientes, un guiño a las aletas traseras de los autos estadounidenses populares en La Habana en la década de 1950, tienen un diseño ergonómico y son extremadamente cómodas en la muñeca. La corona, discreta pero fácil de manipular, se asienta cerca de la correa de la caja y el bisel delgado ofrece un panorama generoso de la esfera.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

El motivo de llamas guilloché en forma de remolino grabado en la esfera revela la devoción de la marca por la artesanía. Las llamas danzantes que emanan del centro dotan a la esfera de un espectáculo fluido y fascinante. Evocadora de los atardeceres sobre la Bahía de La Habana, la elegante esfera color salmón contrasta marcadamente con la caja pulida. Ocho marcadores plateados en forma de lanza y facetados, junto con números arábigos en 3, 6 y 9 y el logotipo de la marca al mediodía, se aplican a la superficie de la esfera, lo que proporciona dimensión y volumen adicionales. Animando el dial a las 6 en punto está el pequeño contador de segundos empotrado con un interior en forma de caracol y la palabra “Flameante”. Para consolidar la identidad vintage del reloj, un cristal de zafiro de doble curvatura protege la esfera. No solo es una característica históricamente precisa de los relojes de la década de 1950, sino que también permite que la luz inunde el plano de la esfera, lo que mejora la legibilidad y muestra el hermoso patrón. En sintonía con los estándares contemporáneos, las elegantes manecillas en forma de lanza tienen un toque de luminiscencia en sus puntas para consultar la hora en condiciones de poca luz.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Historiador Flameante

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Historiador Flameante

En el corazón del Historiador Flameante se encuentra el movimiento suizo de cuerda manual ultradelgado (2,5 mm). Visibles a través de la ventana de cristal de zafiro en el fondo de la caja, los acabados rinden homenaje a la relojería tradicional: los puentes están decorados con Côtes de Genève, la placa principal está decorada con vetas circulares y hay una profusión de tornillos azulados. El fondo de caja está grabado con “Testimony of Style since 1882”, una referencia a la fundación de la marca Cuervo y Sobrinos.

Una hermosa correa de aligátor negra de Louisiana agrega el toque final de elegancia al Historiador Flameante.

Technical Features :

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h

Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed s

Historiador Flameante

Classic, ultra-slim good looks and a dash of Havana heat

 

 

Cuervo y Sobrinos, la marca suiza con raíces cubanas, presenta una nueva edición de su clásico reloj Historiador Flameante con una hipnótica esfera salmón. Inspirado en un modelo original producido por Cuervo y Sobrinos en la década de 1950, el último Historiador Flameante luce una caja ultradelgada de estilo vintage y una esfera original de color salmón ‘flameante’ o ‘flaming’, una combinación diseñada para evocar el tempo dinámico de El Siglo de Oro de La Habana.

 

La Habana en la década de 1950 era una isla exótica para la alta sociedad y las celebridades. De día, la respetable boutique de relojes Cuervo y Sobrinos en el centro de La Habana atraía a visitantes ilustres como Caruso, Hemingway y Churchill; de noche, las estrellas de Hollywood y la jet-set acudían en masa a Floridita para tomar cócteles y al club nocturno Tropicana hasta el amanecer. Como marca con auténtica herencia cubana, los relojes producidos por Cuervo y Sobrinos evocan esta atmósfera de hedonismo lujoso.

 

Disponible en acero inoxidable, la caja del Historiador Flameante tiene un diámetro de 40 mm y una altura ultrafina de solo 6,2 mm, un reloj de vestir perfectamente proporcionado que se deslizará discretamente bajo el puño de una camisa. Las audaces orejetas sobresalientes, un guiño a las aletas traseras de los autos estadounidenses populares en La Habana en la década de 1950, tienen un diseño ergonómico y son extremadamente cómodas en la muñeca. La corona, discreta pero fácil de manipular, se asienta cerca de la correa de la caja y el bisel delgado ofrece un panorama generoso de la esfera.

 

El motivo de llamas guilloché en forma de remolino grabado en la esfera revela la devoción de la marca por la artesanía. Las llamas danzantes que emanan del centro dotan a la esfera de un espectáculo fluido y fascinante. Evocadora de los atardeceres sobre la Bahía de La Habana, la elegante esfera color salmón contrasta marcadamente con la caja pulida. Ocho marcadores plateados en forma de lanza y facetados, junto con números arábigos en 3, 6 y 9 y el logotipo de la marca al mediodía, se aplican a la superficie de la esfera, lo que proporciona dimensión y volumen adicionales. Animando el dial a las 6 en punto está el pequeño contador de segundos empotrado con un interior en forma de caracol y la palabra “Flameante”. Para consolidar la identidad vintage del reloj, un cristal de zafiro de doble curvatura protege la esfera. No solo es una característica históricamente precisa de los relojes de la década de 1950, sino que también permite que la luz inunde el plano de la esfera, lo que mejora la legibilidad y muestra el hermoso patrón. En sintonía con los estándares contemporáneos, las elegantes manecillas en forma de lanza tienen un toque de luminiscencia en sus puntas para consultar la hora en condiciones de poca luz.

 

En el corazón del Historiador Flameante se encuentra el movimiento suizo de cuerda manual ultradelgado (2,5 mm). Visibles a través de la ventana de cristal de zafiro en el fondo de la caja, los acabados rinden homenaje a la relojería tradicional: los puentes están decorados con Côtes de Genève, la placa principal está decorada con vetas circulares y hay una profusión de tornillos azulados. El fondo de caja está grabado con “Testimony of Style since 1882”, una referencia a la fundación de la marca Cuervo y Sobrinos.

 

Una hermosa correa de aligátor negra de Luisiana agrega el toque final de elegancia al Historiador Flameante.

 

Technical Features :

 

Collection Historiador
Model Name Flameante
References 3130.1S
Movement CYS 2052

hand-winding

diameter 23.3 mm

height 2.5 mm

power reserve 42 hours

17 jewels

frequency: 21600 A/h

Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case Stainless steel case

diameter 40 mm

height 6.2 mm

double-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

water resistant to 5 ATM

screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal

Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition

 

 

ee-through case back with sapphire crystal

Dial Salmon color with “Flameante” finishing, silver index and CyS emblem applied
Hands Steel color hours and minutes with Superluminova, round shape small seconds
Strap Black matte Louisiana alligator
Buckle Stainless steel folding buckle, engraved CyS emblem
Limited Edition

 

 

CHOPARD
Reloj de alta joyería “Magari” Una obra de arte de la colección Red Carpet

Entre los tesoros de la emblemática colección Red Carpet de Chopard, el reloj de joyería automático “Magari” atestigua vívidamente el amor de la Maison por el más hermoso de todos los diamantes extraídos de la abundancia natural de la Tierra.

El alma creativa de Chopard e iniciadora de su viaje hacia el lujo sostenible, la copresidenta y directora artística Caroline Scheufele celebra las maravillas de la naturaleza a través de la nueva colección Red Carpet. Entre las 73 creaciones de Alta Joyería que componen este precioso cofre, un número en honor al 73 ° Festival de Cine de Cannes, que debería haberse celebrado en 2020, el reloj de joyería “Magari” rinde homenaje a gemas excepcionales. Gracias a su experiencia única, los artesanos de la Maison con sede en Ginebra han adornado la esfera de este reloj automático con reserva de marcha de 40 horas con una sutil corola de diamantes en forma de pera que totalizan más de 32 quilates. Respectivamente fijado a las 12 y las 6 en punto, un elegante diamante rosa y un elegante diamante azul en forma de pera que pesan dos quilates cada uno realzan este reloj con un aura de pureza y nobleza. Han sido seleccionados especialmente por su brillo y colores únicos, resaltados espectacularmente por su asociación con los diamantes blancos con los que está revestido el resto de este reloj de joyería.

La esfera está adornada con un meticuloso engaste de micro-gemas, mientras que la pulsera también está completamente pavimentada con diamantes, que se asemeja a un río con sus reflejos brillantes a lo largo de la muñeca. Un tributo a la belleza de la naturaleza y un diálogo con la luz, todo el reloj de joyería “Magari” está hecho de oro blanco ético de 18 quilates que refleja el compromiso de Chopard con el lujo sostenible.

En los talleres de Chopard en Ginebra, más de 30 artesanos talentosos han combinado su talento para superar los límites de la viabilidad, desde las líneas hasta los volúmenes, desde la orfebrería hasta las piedras preciosas, para dar vida a las joyas que componen la prestigiosa Red Carpet Collection.