Tag Archive for: timepieces

4997/200R - CALATRAVA
, , , , , , , , , ,

Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

 

Patek Philippe presents 17 new watch models with innovative technical and aesthetic features, enriching its vast range of collections

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2023, the Geneva-based manufacture is unveiling a wide selection of new models, ranging from a Calatrava with an original 24-hour display and a Travel Time function for the display of a second time zone, to a new haute joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime, and the first Annual Calendar to enter the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection, renowned for its modern casual chic. A new vintage celebrating technical mastery and creativity.

“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves.” That was the message from Thierry Stern, president of the family-owned manufacture, in a recent communications campaign centering on the company’s brand philosophy. From the Grand Complications to the elegant sports models and others that have become icons of horological design, Patek Philippe maintains a vast choice of watches for men and women in every market segment. As time passes, the manufacture takes great care to ensure a balanced evolution of the approximately 150 references, which are crafted in small series, ranging from about ten pieces to a few hundred. The 17 new introductions presented at the Watches and Wonders 2023 salon are the perfect illustration.

Five refined new looks for the striking watches –Grand Complications emblematic of Patek Philippe

Since the manufacture’s foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe has made its mark as one of the greatest specialists in striking watches. Its supreme mastery was confirmed in 2014 by the launch, as a limited edition, of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch, with 20 complications. This timepiece, which joined the current collection in 2016, is particularly notable for its five chiming modes, including an alarm striking the pre-selected time, and a date repeater striking the date on demand.

The manufacture is reinterpreting the design of the double-face reversible case, endowed with a patented rotation mechanism, by presenting it for the first time in a bicolor version combining white gold and rose gold. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 also stands out by its two brown opaline dials, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the side displaying the time of day, and its two-tone chestnut brown patinated alligator strap and bicolor folding buckle.

In 2022, Patek Philippe highlighted the mechanical perfection of the Grandmaster Chime with two gem- set versions, one with baguette-cut diamonds (Reference 6300/400G-001) the other with baguette-cut diamonds and baguette-cut blue sapphires (Reference 6300/401G-001). Now, the manufacture is presenting a new alliance between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001 shimmering with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 ct) in a superb example of the “baguette” and “invisible” setting techniques. This timepiece is endowed with two dials in ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the time side and a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand stitching.

Another outstanding piece among the striking watches, Reference 5316, launched in 2017, unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator. In the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this timepiece a unique new modern allure –with a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and black-gradient rim, affording a veiled glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch.

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

The manufacture is also enriching its selection of minute-repeating wristwatches –the largest such range in a current collection –with two reinterpretations under the heading of Rare Handcrafts. Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model that always strikes the local time –is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Its dial center is adorned with a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene depicting one of the famous steamboats still plying the waters of Lake Geneva. Another new model, Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012, is endowed with a self-winding movement and “cathedral” gongs whose sound is particularly deep and rich. It features a new dial in blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a distinctive hand-guilloched swirling pattern.

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 

A new complicated model and refreshed designs in the Calatrava collection

With its sleek round case and air of understatement, the Calatrava collection (launched in 1932) has made its mark as the archetype of timeless elegance. Over the years, Patek Philippe has added to this vast family a variety of complications used in everyday life, such as the Travel Time dual time zone function and the weekly calendar. The manufacture is now expanding its range of travel watches with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 featuring the Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24- hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement is further distinguished by its patented system for correcting local time by the crown. It is housed in a rose-gold case harmonizing with a blue dial embellished by complex finishing touches, adorned with numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold, individually applied by hand.

Since 2015, the models in the Pilot style – inspired by the Patek Philippe watches created for aviators in the 1930s – have featured prominently in the manufacture’s collections, with several versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with the dual time-zone mechanism, as well as a Grand Complication equipped with a 24-hour alarm. Patek Philippe is now endowing this distinctive line, known for its original, highly recognizable aesthetic, with its first two chronograph models: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001, with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. These two watches house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement uniting three practical and user-friendly complications:   a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function and the date indicated by a hand, coupled with local time.

Other new models in the Patek Philippe current collection include the Calatrava references 6007G- 001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 featuring a graphic modern style. The ebony black dials, enriched with three types of finish, center an embossed “carbon” pattern. The dynamism of the design is heightened by touches of color on the dials and straps: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011). The white-gold cases house the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with date and stop-seconds function.

4997/200R - CALATRAVA

4997/200R – CALATRAVA

Patek Philippe is also expanding its range of elegant watches for women with the new Calatrava self- winding Reference 4997/200R-001, a reinterpretation of a great classic that catches the eye with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap decked out in purple. The dial, embossed with a pattern of concentric waves, is coated with more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, creating a mesmerizing sense of depth. The case is adorned with a diamond-set bezel and houses the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

New functions and new faces for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe made its mark in the domain of sporty elegance by designing two models that have acquired cult status: the Nautilus (1976) and the Aquanaut (1997), the latter strengthening its offer in 2004 with the launch of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce line. Following the introduction of a Travel Time dual time-zone model in 2021 and a self-winding chronograph version in 2022, the Aquanaut Luce is now treating itself to a new practical and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar. Graced with a blue-gray dial and strap, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 in rose gold enhances the choice of complicated watches for women with a non-gemset model.

The new self-winding ladies’ Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 coordinates a rose-gold case with a dial and integrated strap in taupe –a warm hue between brown and gray in perfect harmony with this model’s “modern casual chic” style. Its characteristic rounded octagonal bezel is lit by the fire of 48 diamonds. The case is water resistant to 120 m and houses the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with stop seconds.

The self-winding Aquanaut chronograph for men, already available in steel and in white gold, also sports a rose-gold case for the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968R-001, endowed with a sunburst dial in a gradient of brown to black, and a matching composite strap.

From technical models to jewelry pieces

In the segment of complicated watches for men, Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010 endowed with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial lends a new face to this alliance between two sought-after Patek Philippe complications.

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

The Gondolo collection, comprising the Patek Philippe “form watches” of Art Deco inspiration, announces the return of a jewelry watch with unique style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient, highlighting the case’s refined curves. The brown-lacquered dial presents a floral decoration with contrasting finishes.

A rich collection of rare handcrafts

 Once again, as in previous years, Patek Philippe is also unveiling a splendid collection of one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces (dome table clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches) showcasing the rarest and most refined of the artistic crafts, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, hand engraving and wood marquetry. The “Rare Handcrafts 2023” exhibition, bringing together these 67 creations, will be open to the public from April 1 to 15 2023 in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar 5271/11P 

 

 

/by
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
, , ,

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar 5271/11P 

5271/11P – GRAND COMPLICATIONS
MANUAL WINDING

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Paying tribute to an iconic Grande Complication, Patek Philippe has created a jewelry version of its chronograph with perpetual calendar Reference 5271, enhanced by 80 blue baguette-cut sapphires (5.16 cts). The aesthetic harmony is complemented by the lacquered blue dial with black-gradient rim and the shiny black alligator strap with contrasting blue stitching.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The CH 29-535 PS Q caliber is distinguished by its traditional architecture (manually wound, column wheel, toothed-wheel horizontal clutch), combined with six patented innovations in the chronograph, as well as its exceptionally slim calendar mechanism.

WATCH
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. Chronograph. Central chronograph hand. Instantaneous 30-minute counter. Perpetual Calendar. Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. Date by hand. Moon phases. Small seconds.
DIAL
Lacquered blue with black-gradient rim, gold applied hour markers.
CASE
Platinum. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs. Water-resistant to 30 m. Diameter: 41 mm. Height: 12.7 mm.
GEMSETTING
58 baguette-cut sapphires: 4.11 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette-cut sapphires: 1.05 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette-cut sapphires (5.16 cts).
STRAP
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black. Fold-over clasp set with sapphires.

Price : 348’870 EUR*

*Suggested retail price taxes included. Prices may be subject to alteration at any time and do not constitute a contract.
/by
blackplain 70-years-diving-watch-02
, , , , ,

Blancpain celebrates the 70th anniversary of the first modern diving watch.

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS 70TH ANNIVERSARY

In 2023, Blancpain celebrates the 70th anniversary of the first modern diving watch.

Launched in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms is the first modern diver’s watch. Created by a diver to meet the needs of underwater exploration, it was chosen by diving pioneers and elite marine corps around the world as a professional timekeeping instrument. With its water resistance, robust doubled-sealed crown, self-winding movement, contrasting dark dial with luminescent indications, unidirectional rotating bezel and anti-magnetic protection, the Fifty Fathoms has become an indispensable instrument for divers on their underwater missions.

These key signature elements that established the Fifty Fathoms as the archetypal diver’s watch continue to define the identity of such timepieces for the entire watch industry. Bearing witness to the past while simultaneously looking firmly to the future, contemporary Fifty Fathoms models incorporate modern movements renowned for their robustness and reliability. They feature numerous technical innovations derived from Blancpain’s longstanding experience in the field of diving, its risks and its imperious necessities.

The Fifty Fathoms has played an essential role in the development of scuba diving and the discovery of the ocean world. It has enabled Blancpain to forge close links with the ocean community that have been consistently strengthened over the past 70 years. The Fifty Fathoms is the catalyst for Blancpain’s commitment to the preservation of the ocean.

/by
, ,

Relojes de lujo Perpetual Extraleganza – El icónico Piaget Polo

Relojes de lujo Perpetual Extraleganza – El icónico Piaget Polo

 

Piaget Polo adopta el calendario perpetuo en el exclusivo modo ultraplano

El icónico Piaget Polo alcanza alturas sin precedentes en 2023 con el Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin impulsado por el calibre 1255P. Este impresionante nuevo modelo exhibe una de las complicaciones más emblemáticas de la relojería, complementada evocadoramente por una indicación de las fases lunares.

Usado por figuras excepcionales como Ursula Andress, Roger Moore, Andy Warhol y Bjorn Borg, este ícono unisex en oro o acero que destaca entre la multitud irradia un carácter singular y un aura inconfundible de distinción que resuena con el espíritu de Piaget. alegría compartida, sofisticación y extravagancia. Los numerosos viajes de Yves Piaget lo ayudaron a sentir el impulso del mercado estadounidense y su apetito por los relojes deportivos de lujo. Por lo tanto, Piaget estaba preparado para anular las convenciones de la industria al ofrecer un enfoque deportivo y relajado de la elegancia de la relojería las 24 horas del día que cautivó a los EE. UU.

El emblemático Calendario Perpetuo

La icónica colección Piaget Polo ahora da la bienvenida por primera vez a un calendario perpetuo mecánico, una complicación emblemática en la que Piaget ha desarrollado una experiencia considerable que ya se ha desplegado en algunas de sus otras líneas de relojes. Diseñados para adelantar el día, la fecha y el año hasta el año 2100 (meses, fases lunares y ciclo de año bisiesto), los relojes con calendario perpetuo atraen de forma natural a un público exigente y perspicaz, personas conocedoras que aprecian la suma del   saber hacer de la alta relojería . incorporados en tales modelos.

Relojería ultrafina pionera

Piaget ha construido su reputación primero en el desarrollo y fabricación de componentes ultraplanos y luego en el desarrollo de movimientos ultraplanos. Combinando destreza relojera, diseño de alta precisión y creatividad audaz, el movimiento interno 12P lanzado en 1960 fue el más plano del mundo porque se basó en la idea de utilizar un microrotor para garantizar su ultradelgadez. Cincuenta años después, este calibre dio lugar a su vez a la nueva generación del calibre 1200P.

Para el nuevo calibre ultraplano de 4 mm 1255P de Piaget, la Manufactura se basó en el calibre ultraplano 1200P con su extrema delgadez y su probada fiabilidad, al tiempo que añadió un calendario perpetuo adicional con mecanismo de fase lunar. Con un grosor total de solo 8,65 mm, el nuevo Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin de 42 mm lleva el universo a la muñeca al mismo tiempo que conserva el ambiente alegre de la alta vida que hace alarde de esta colección fabulosamente festiva y colorida.

Fluidez icónica

El Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin presenta una esfera de color verde esmeralda oscuro con un diseño de galón y tres subesferas para la fecha, el mes (junto con la indicación del año bisiesto) y el día de la semana a las 9, 12 y 3 en punto, junto con el Indicación de fase lunar a las 6 en punto. Fieles a la tradición de Piaget, las subesferas incorporan varios acabados, añadiendo riqueza visual a medida que la luz juega sobre ellas, junto con Super-Luminova ® índices Si bien conserva los gallones que forman parte de la firma Piaget Polo desde 1979 en ambas cajas, el vínculo estético entre la nueva generación de Piaget Polo y sus predecesores se ve reforzado por la reaparición de los gallones en el brazalete. Otras mejoras se relacionan con un nuevo sistema SingleTouch intercambiable para el brazalete, ya que el modelo viene con una cómoda alternativa de correa de caucho, que hace eco del patrón de gadroon en el dial, que diversifica las opciones de uso de manera fácil pero segura.

Un legado de distinción sin esfuerzo

El encuentro por excelencia entre  la alta relojería  y el uso diario, el Piaget Polo se desliza a la perfección del día a la noche, de lo público a lo privado. Siempre encajando, nunca mezclando, ofrece una narrativa contemporánea para las identidades más audaces y versátiles. El nuevo Piaget Polo continúa personificando la alegre mezcla de comodidad, sofisticación y extravagancia que ha forjado su renombre. Para Piaget, el estilo es un regalo. Un séptimo sentido. Algo que no se puede aprender ni comprar. Sea cual sea el lugar, sea cual sea el momento, sin dejar de ser fiel a su distinción sin esfuerzo, Piaget Polo es una invitación a liberar la versatilidad y la autoexpresión personales, encendiendo una capacidad única para encajar y sobresalir.

/by
ZENITH UNVEILS “ULTRA COLOUR” BOX SET OF 8 CHROMATICALLY CHARGED DEFY 21 MODELS
, , , , ,

HIGH-FREQUENCY ACROSS THE SPECTRUM: ZENITH UNVEILS “ULTRA COLOUR” BOX SET OF 8

ALTA FRECUENCIA EN TODO EL ESPECTRO: ZENITH PRESENTA UNA CAJA “ULTRA COLOR” DE 8 MODELOS DEFY 21 CON CARGA CROMÁTICA

Ya se trate de esferas de colores vibrantes en la década de 1970 o de movimientos revolucionarios terminados con tonos llamativos en sus creaciones más recientes, ZENITH nunca ha rehuído explorar los cromatismos de maneras nuevas y atrevidas.

A través del DEFY 21, el primer modelo en albergar el innovador movimiento de cronógrafo El Primero de 1/100 de segundo de ZENITH, ZENITH buscó expresar la noción de precisión de alta frecuencia a través de frecuencias de luz y colores. Esta idea cobró vida por primera vez con el DEFY 21 Ultraviolet en 2020, que estableció un nuevo código de diseño para el DEFY 21 que ZENITH ahora expresa completamente este concepto con la caja DEFY 21 Ultra Color.

12345

Con ocho iteraciones diferentes del DEFY 21 y limitadas a solo ocho cajas, las piezas Ultra Color están todas fabricadas en titanio liviano con acabado completamente mate, lo que permite que brille el cromatismo interno. La esfera abierta presenta contadores de cronógrafo en relieve que combinan con el tono gris de la caja, debajo de los cuales se aplican vibrantes colores metálicos en la parte menos esperada del reloj: el movimiento.a

Luminoso y transparente con un encanto casi cristalino, el conjunto Ultra Box se entrega en una caja de presentación de acrílico transparente, con un efecto iridiscente que refracta la luz para mostrar diferentes colores según el ángulo de la luz. Cada uno de los relojes está grabado en la parte posterior de la caja con un número de edición limitada de 8, y cada caja contará con relojes numerados secuencialmente del 1 al 8, en lugar de tener el mismo número para los ocho relojes en una sola caja.

/by
, , ,

HUBLOT – Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

https://www.hublot.com/ – Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

A Hublot ambassador since 2020, creative director Samuel Ross brings his unique graphic language to watchmaking for the first time with the limited-edition Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.

https://www.hublot.com/

A 40-year focus on the “Art of Fusion” has resulted in a meteoric rise for Hublot, seeing it catapulted to the pinnacle of innovative watchmaking. With the brand’s ability to combine seemingly diametrically opposed materials, plus an enduring drive to push the boundaries of what is technically and aesthetically possible, it has rewritten the rules of horology, leaving a new design language in its wake.

Fostering a desire to work with the most talented practitioners in alternate fields, the brand introduced its “Hublot Loves Art” initiative more than a decade ago. Hublot has since collaborated with some of the most talented artists and designers of a generation. Ground-breaking in outlook and highly collectable, the resulting watches offer new interpretations of time and timekeeping. The most recent creator to take up the mantle is Samuel Ross.

Mirroring Hublot’s trajectory, renaissance man Ross has experienced an equally breakneck rise to prominence. Describing himself as a creative director, the 30-year-old multi-disciplinary artist, filmmaker, and fashion designer graduated from Leicester De Montfort University in 2012 with a first-class honours’ degree in graphic design and illustration. Since then, he has collaborated with many brands and creative outlets – from Oakley and Nike to Dr. Martens and Mackintosh – launching his men’s Luxury Sportswear label A-Cold-Wall* in late 2015, and his design studio SR_A in 2019.

In 2019, Ross was awarded the prestigious Hublot Design Prize, and a year later he was announced as an official brand ambassador, an occasion marked by the unveiling of REFORM, a sculpture designed to encapsulate 40 years of Hublot. Combining an ancient, organic material (granite) with a modern, manmade one (steel), Ross created his own ‘Fusion’, uniting past and present in a production process that involved both traditional hand-finishing and cutting-edge machining.

The deceptively simple, industrial form of the 40cm high artwork has now been reinterpreted in the 44mm Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross – Ross’s first wristwatch collaboration with Hublot. Ross’s signature use of colour and love of stark geometry and urban design, come together with the innovation and precision that prevail in the work of both Ross and Hublot.

The distinctive, stylised hexagon of the Big Bang case is reflected in the titanium honeycomb mesh used on the sapphire dial, case, case back and strap. A basic building block of nature (seen in environments from beehives and snake’s scales to pineapple skin and snowflakes) the robust and efficient shape, that can be repeated without gaps or overlapping, has been appropriated as a standard for modern-day construction and design thanks to the seamless fit of each unit.

Here the hexagon is a visual symbol of the functionality of the watch – a key strand running through all of Ross’s design. Although it may be a wearable sculpture, Ross never loses sight of the need for it to be durable and ergonomic, the lightweight, openworked titanium structure and malleable rubber strap ensuring its comfort on the wrist. A proponent of colour theory, Ross has chosen orange – representing energy and optimism – for the strap and accents on the crown and tourbillon bridge and lateral bumpers that protect the case, a glowing contrast to the sober grey of the satin-finished case and bezel.

The 282-component, manufacture HUB6035 calibre within beats at 3 Hz and gives 72 hours of power reserve. Just 50 pieces will be produced, each one a piece of art that brings a new perspective and a new visual language

to watchmaking. To celebrate the launch, Ross’s signature colours will envelop Hublot’s 5th Ave boutique in New York City. The takeover will be repeated in Hublot stores across the globe, bringing the Samuel Ross universe to the world of horology.

/by
Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple
, , ,

It’s fashion, baby! Hublot – Big Bang Unico Summer Purple

Big Bang Unico Summer Purple

It’s fashion, baby! Hublot stays on-trend this summer with the launch of a Big Bang Unico in a brand-new shade – purple! A purple splash for a refreshing dive into the bold, bright colours of Spring-Summer 2022.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Fashionistas around the world agree: bold, bright colours are back this season! Colour blocking is a trend gracing catwalks at the most recent Fashion Week events in the biggest capitals. This fresh, colourful approach has inspired Hublot’s new “Summer in the City” campaign as well as a new Summer edition of the iconic Big Bang Unico, which now has an all-purple look! Its 42-mm case is cut from aluminium, a modern, lightweight material.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

This anodised, satin-finished and polished case is purple all over. This colour has been made possible using a process which guarantees impeccable durability and offers remarkable protection from scratches and impacts. A technical feat on the part of Hublot’s engineers!

Beating at the heart of the Big Bang Unico Summer is the HUB1280 manufacture calibre, a chronograph movement whose column wheel is visible through the dial. It has a power reserve of 72 hours. The hands and indices are in the same shade of purple, enhanced here and there with touches of luminescent white.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

To match its all-purple look, the Big Bang Unico Summer comes with two straps in the same colour. The first takes the form of a Velcro strap with matching stitching which is closed with a sports clasp. The second adopts the brand’s signature natural rubber and both bracelets feature the One-Click system, an interchangeable clasp system patented by https://www.hublot.com/.

Designed for everyone, the https://www.hublot.com/ watch will be available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. 

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

/by
, , , ,

Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

THE PERPETUAL MOVEMENT OF THE SOLAR SYSTEM CAPTURED IN A SUBLIME OBJET D’ART

In keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal quest for precision, the Manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers have created a new complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon more closely than ever before, developing it specifically for the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590. The extraordinary mechanism brings an entirely new dimension to the Atmos – the unique perpetual clock that runs on air – displaying, in three dimensions and in real time, the relative positions and movements of Earth, the Moon and the Sun.

Nicknamed the Atmos Tellurium, this is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, pushing the limits of both precision and design, and the intricacy and architectural beauty of its movement naturally inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier. Dedicating a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration – from miniature-painting and laser-engraving to lacquer-work and meteorite inlay – they have elevated the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 to become a sublime work of art as well as an outstanding timekeeping device.

· Pushing the boundaries of precision and design, the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, requiring more than four years of research and development work

· New Calibre 590 incorporates a complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon

· The artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier dedicated a wide range of craft skills to its decoration, transforming an outstanding timekeeping device into a sublime work of art

Measuring Time as the Planets Move

In the very beginning, thanks to the movements of stars and planets, mankind became aware of the passing of time and began to define and measure it. Days, with periods of light and darkness, were defined by one complete rotation of Earth on its axis; years were defined by the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons.

Over the millennia, scientists invented instruments to reproduce these cycles and enhance their understanding of celestial phenomena. Clock-makers began to measure time by using the values of the various astronomical cycles – although the units of standard civil time are only approximate, based on the average values of solar, lunar and sidereal cycles. In 1543, Copernicus revolutionised scientific thinking with the publication of his heliocentric model of the solar system (first hypothesised by the Ancient Greek astronomer Aristarchus of Samos, the model had been discounted for more than 1,500 years in favour of an Earth-centred model).  The heliocentric model places the Sun, rather than Earth, at the centre of our solar system and its publication triggered the invention of the tellurion (also written as tellurium), a three-dimensional mechanical mobile that illustrates the relative positions and movements of Earth and the Moon in relation to the Sun. From the 18th century onwards, elaborate clocks were sometimes surmounted by these fascinating mechanisms. The nickname of Calibre 590 –‘Tellurium’ – is a tribute to those magnificent clocks.

Invented in 1928, the Atmos needs no human intervention to wind its movement; a temperature variation of just one degree Celsius provides sufficient energy to wind it for 48 hours, enabling it to run perpetually if kept under normal everyday conditions. Because this remarkable system produces only a small amount of energy – some 40 times less energy than a traditional 4Hz watch movement typically offers – the Atmos movement has been designed to consume as little energy as possible, with the balance taking one minute to perform a complete oscillation.

Over time, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have mastered the challenge of adding functions to the mechanism without substantially increasing energy consumption. In doing so, they have discovered that the complications best suited to the Atmos are those based on longer cycles, such as the seasons, months and phases of the moon.

A New Complication and a Captivating Display

The new Calibre 590 was entirely conceived, designed and constructed within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre and assembled in the Atmos atelier, a workshop solely dedicated to Atmos. Comprising 443 components, with the tellurium complication fully integrated into the movement, it required more than four years of research and development – its technical complexity and sophistication naturally meriting a place in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica collection. As well as reproducing with precision the rotation of Earth on its own axis, and the orbits of the Moon around Earth and Earth around the Sun, the new calibre indicates the corresponding months and seasons with a zodiacal calendar.

The clock face is defined by a peripheral ring formed of two layers. The upper layer, fixed in place, is marked with an hour-and-minute track and the names of the seasons; this conceals a mobile ring marked with the months, which appear in an aperture at 6 o’clock. Set within this frame is a disc of translucent blue sapphire crystal, laser-engraved with the zodiac signs. At the centre of the dial, the sun is represented by a burst of polished golden metal rays.

Close to the peripheral ring, balanced by a wedge-shaped counterweight, a circle of meteorite frames a transparent sapphire disc into which a spherical Earth and Moon are set. The Earth rotates on its axis in 24 hours, the length of a civil day, providing a night-day indication as it revolves. At the same time, the Moon orbits Earth in one synodic month, turning on its own axis to show its phases. Defined by one complete cycle of moon phases, a mean synodic month is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2 seconds in length. This mean (or average) duration allows for the slight variation caused by the elliptical shape of the Moon’s orbit. The mechanism of the Atmos is so close to this mean that it creates only one day of error in 5,770 years.

This entire Earth-and-Moon disc orbits around the central Sun, making a complete rotation in one solar (or “tropical”) year, indicating the seasons as it turns. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have succeeded in establishing a cycle of 365.2466 days. This is so close to the reference value of 365.2425 days found in the Gregorian calendar that it varies by only one day in 390 years, meaning that it will not need adjusting until the year 2412 (the only adjustment is the seasonal change).

‘Fully visible from every angle, the entire mechanism seems to hover in space within its cylindrical cabinet of glass. In fact, it is supported, and attached to the base by a virtually invisible glass cloche, which also encloses the annular balance. Like the main body of the movement, the balance also seems to floating as it performs its slow and mesmerising dance.’ explains Lionel Favre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Director.

Naturally, this extraordinary mechanism has inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier to dedicate a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration. Miniature painting adds detail and depth to the spherical Earth; laser engraving evokes the surface of the Moon; lacquer brings a rich glow to the main dial ring; and meteorite – material that has literally fallen from space – is inlaid on the Earth-Moon ring; and the glass cabinet has been hand-painted with a delicate rendering of the constellations.

The most complex Atmos clock ever created, the new Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 pushes the limits of precision and design a step further with a perpetual mechanism complemented by a tellurion that perpetuates time to almost infinity. It showcases this remarkable achievement in the form of a true work of art.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590

Dimensions: 215mm diameter x 253mm height

Calibre: perpetual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 590

Frequency: annular balance with 60-second oscillation

Functions: hours, minutes, night & day, month, moon phases, zodiacal calendar

Cabinet: cylindrical glass hand-painted with the constellations

Decorative finishes: inlaid meteorite; engraving; miniature painting; lacquer

Reference: Q5765300 – Limited edition of 10 pieces

/by
, , ,

Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin and Patrimony self-winding: Feminine timepieces

Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin and Patrimony self-winding: Feminine timepieces

  • Vacheron Constantin has added new models to its Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections, aimed at women.
  • The Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch, equipped with in-house Calibre 
    1120 QP,  is offered in two gemset 36.5 mm versions in white gold and pink gold respectively.
  • The Patrimony self-winding watch, powered by in-house Calibre 2450 Q6/3, is interpreted through four references in white and pink gold featuring gemsetting on the bezel or dial, and with new gradient-effect dials
  • These six new references are fitted with straps that are interchangeable at the touch of a push-button.

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – The attention that Vacheron Constantin has devoted to women’s timepieces for more than two centuries is freshly interpreted through the models presented at Watches and Wonders 2022. A response to women’s growing desire for complex mechanical timepieces, the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch displays its technical nature in an eminently feminine manner; while the Patrimony self-winding watch flaunts a minimalist silhouette exuding a timeless elegance symbolising a distinctive kind of watchmaking classicism.

Vacheron Constantin and women: a story woven through time

Women took a very early interest in watchmaking, often to adorn their garments with objects that were sometimes unusual yet generally designed as real jewellery. This was however not to the detriment of their practical aspects, as confirmed by the numerous striking or calendar watches made with women in mind. Women also played a role as early adopters of wristwatches.

Vacheron Constantin has left its mark on each era, from the first ladies’ pocket watches made at the turn of the 18th century through to elegant contemporary creations. Whether functional or ceremonial objects, jewellery or sports watches, Vacheron Constantin’s women’s creations have consistently reflected the evolution of artistic sensibilities as well as of fashion trends. They bear witness to perpetually renewed aesthetic and technical creativity aimed at women, within which attention to detail shapes an anatomy of watchmaking beauty that is unique to the Maison.

Vacheron Constantin’s archives make it possible to trace the origins of ladies’ watches commissioned very early in the history of the Manufacture, including a sculpted yellow gold watch with quarter repeater and off-centre small seconds dating from 1838. The ensuring decades witnessed a succession of creations – sometimes housing horological complications and often precious with their hunter-type cases – leading up the appearance of the first wristwatches, a feminine accessory of which the first example in the Vacheron Constantin collection dates from 1889.

With the advent of the 20th century, the Maison’s feminine creations admirably embodied the spirit of the times, initially inspired by Art Nouveau, then Art Deco, with a clear penchant for jewellery watches. Cooperating with Vacheron Constantin’s French agent Verger lasted until 1938 and also brought its share of new models dedicated to women – some of which featured cameos inspired by Asian art or Ancient Greece. From the 1940s onwards, women began wearing watches almost exclusively on the wrist. The geometrical lines of the Art Deco period gradually gave way to more voluptuous shapes. Designed as jewels that tell the time, ‘secret’ watches with covers concealing the display of time were particularly popular at the time, and Vacheron Constantin displayed impressive stylistic inventiveness through its designs vividly reflecting the modern era.

In the wake of the 1970s, Vacheron Constantin dared to experiment with new, uninhibited shapes for ladies’ watches, before adopting the sportier lines of the Overseas range dedicated to the contemporary woman. In addition, the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections were designed to convey the technical sophistication and aesthetic refinement of time measurement for women. This approach was further accentuated by the recent launch of the Égérie watches: inspired by Haute Couture, they embody watchmaking expertise and a sensitivity to feminine codes that has been constantly reaffirmed over the centuries. Drawing on this heritage, Maison is now adding new models to its two Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections.

Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

The brand is unveiling a new feminine timepiece in its Traditionnelle collection, a line imbued with the grand Geneva watchmaking heritage and whose design was intended to adapt to all types of watches, whether simple or equipped with sophisticated complications. The Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch corresponds to women’s desire for mechanical complication timepieces.

This timepiece equipped with in-house Calibre 1120 QP elegantly plays on the distinctive aspects of the Gregorian calendar. It displays the days, dates, months and years on a four-year cycle, including a leap-year indication, without any need for correction before 2100. This calendar display is complemented by a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. Another distinctive feature of this movement is its thinness: measuring only 4.05 mm thick, it is housed in a 8.43 mm-thick case with a 36.5 mm diameter, ensuring perfect visual harmony.

Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in ultra-thin movements that has enabled it to set several records in terms of slimness since the 1950s. With its 276 components perfectly visible through the sapphire caseback, it also reflects noble watchmaking traditions through its extremely meticulous finishing: a circular-grained plate on the dial side, mainplate and bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif on the back, hand-bevelling, circular satin-finished holes and a going train with polished teeth. The oscillating weight featuring a 22K gold segment is also adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and openworked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.

This watch whose aesthetic refinement echoes its technical sophistication pays tribute to the identity codes of Vacheron Constantin, whereby the quest for excellence is expressed through the smallest, even invisible details. Available in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold versions, it is inspired by Vacheron Constantin models from the first half of the last century. It features the strong sense of understatement characterising the collection, embellished with a few special features such as the stepped lugs and case, fluted caseback, as well as Dauphine-type hands flying over a railway minutes track punctuated by baton-type hour-markers. In keeping with the methodical spirit of the time, which held that function should dictate form, this perpetual calendar has been specially designed to make it easy to read the calendar indications thanks to a slimmed-down bezel offering a larger dial opening.

The dial is adorned with blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl for the white gold model and white mother-of-pearl for the pink gold model. The moon-phase disc bears the same colours as the dial, while the depiction of the moon and the stars adopts the same shade of gold as the case, complete with an opaline finish. In a final touch of elegance, the bezel and top of the lugs are delicately set with 76 round-cut diamonds, while the crown is adorned with a round-cut diamond.

For the first time in the collection, this Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch is equipped with an interchangeable strap that can be fitted at the touch of a push-button and without any need for tools. Each model comes with an alligator leather strap – grey blue or rosy beige – secured by a white or pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds.

 

Patrimony self-winding

The Patrimony self-winding watch symbolises minimalist art expressed through horological refinement. Inspired by a historical 1957 Vacheron Constantin with a classic round, ultra-thin style and timeless elegance, the Patrimony collection has been distinguished since its launch in 2004 by a restrained and refined watchmaking aesthetic. In keeping with the line’s signature spirit of purity, the proportions of the new Patrimony models have been revisited. The curve of the 36.5 mm-diameter case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold has been redesigned, while the crown has been subtly rounded.

The slightly convex dial swept over by leaf-shaped hands following its curves features subtle shades of deep blue for the white gold version and blush pink for the pink gold version. These colours appear in a gradient-effect composition that is lighter in the centre and progressively darker towards the edge of the dial, thereby bringing light and depth to the display of the hours, minutes and seconds. The care lavished on each detail is reflected in the date disc at 6 o’clock, which has the same colour as the dial, and in the subtle play of gemsetting on the models. Each of the two versions features either a bezel set with 72 round-cut diamonds lighting up the circular-grained minutes track, or a minutes track itself composed of 48 round-cut diamonds positioned between the applied gold hour-markers. The gemsetting of the minutes track, a complex operation performed on an underlying domed surface, reflects an approach to watchmaking in which every detail is essential to the anatomy of Vacheron Constantin watches.

These four new references are powered by in-house 2450 Q6/3 movement driving displays of the hours and minutes along with central seconds and an aperture-type date. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour – an excellent compromise between precision and reliability – it is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. This 196-component self-winding movement is barely 3.6 mm thick. Its finishing, like that of the case, complies with Hallmark of Geneva criteria such as a circular-grained mainplate, hand-bevelled bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif, straight-grained finishing springs, a going train with polished sinks and burnished pinions. The transparent caseback also reveals an 22K gold openworked oscillating weight inspired by the Maltese cross.

These new Patrimony watches feature interchangeable straps in night blue or rosy beige alligator leather with an iridescent satin finish. They can be removed and replaced at the touch of a push-button, without any need for tools.

The Anatomy of Beauty®

These new Traditionnelle and Patrimony models perfectly illustrate the Maison’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme, celebrating the attentiveness to detail. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.

 

Sum-up

From the first pocket watches at the turn of the 18th century to contemporary wristwatches, Vacheron Constantin has always been able to capture the spirit of the times and meet women’s expectations.

Greatly appreciated by connoisseurs, the 4.05 mm in-house Calibre 1120 QP gives life to a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin designed for women’s wrists. This 36.5 mm-diameter model reflects Vacheron Constantin’s grand tradition of horological complications, notably interpreted through ultra-thin versions. Its 18K white or 18K 5N pink gold case bears the identity codes of the Traditionnelle collection featuring meticulous handcrafted finishing. Its gem-set bezel and its dial graced with delicately shimmering mother-of-pearl have been meticulously designed to ensure optimum legibility of the calendar indications.

True to its restrained and timeless elegance inherited from the 1950s, the new Patrimony self-winding watch reveals a slimmer feminine anatomy graced with redesigned curves and a slightly domed dial with a deep, luminous gradient. This 36.5 mm-diameter model is available in white gold with a deep blue dial or in pink gold with a blush pink dial, complete with either a bezel set with 72 diamonds and a “pearl” minute track, or with a gold bezel and a minute track set with 48 diamonds. The apparent simplicity of the Patrimony self-winding watch stems from meticulous attention to detail, as evidenced by the finishing of its self-winding in-house Calibre 2450 Q6/3 driving displays of the hours, minutes, seconds and date.

These new models in the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections feature interchangeable straps that can be released at the touch of a single button and without the need for tools.

*****************************************************************

TECHNICAL DATA
Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

References
4305T/000G-B948
4305T/000R-B947

Calibre
1120 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
Moon phases                                                          

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.43 mm thick
Bezel and lugs set with 76 round-cut diamonds
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Blue grey/White mother-of-pearl
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hands

Strap
Blue grey (4305T/000G-B948) / Rosy beige (4305T/000R-B947) Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin leather inner shell, stitched tip, square scales          
 With integrated self-interchangeable system

Buckle                                                        
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds

Total diamond-setting                           
94 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
1.20 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

*****************************************************************

TECHNICAL DATA
Patrimony self-winding

References
4115U/000G-B908
4115U/000R-B907

Calibre
2450 Q6/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.20 mm diameter (11¼’’’), 3.60 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Heures, minutes, central seconds
Date                    

Case                                                           
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
Bezel set with 72 round-cut diamonds
36.5 mm diameter, 8.45 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Deep blue / blush pink, gradient effect
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track composed by 48 polished 18K gold pearls
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hour/minutes hands

Strap
Night blue/Rosy beige Mississippiensis alligator leather with satin-effect, calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With integrated self-interchangeable system

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Total diamond-setting
72 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
0.74 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

*****************************************************************
FICHE TECHNIQUE
Patrimony self-winding

Références
4110U/000G-B906
4110U/000R-B905

Calibre
2450 Q6/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.20 mm diameter (11¼’’’), 3.60 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Heures, minutes, central seconds
Date

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.45 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Deep blue / blush pink, gradient effect
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track composed by 48 round-cut diamonds
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hour/minutes hands

Strap
Night blue/Rosy beige Mississippiensis alligator leather with satin-effect, calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With self-interchangeable system integrated

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

/by
, , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface: a contemporary aesthetic for a model reflecting Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

  • A new openworked sapphire face for the Traditionnelle complete calendar watch, interpreted through two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold
  • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with triple calendar and precision moon phase
  • A highly contemporary aesthetic for these timepieces, heirs to Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

Geneva,- Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The openworked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.

Revisiting the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva’s watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCL/2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.

Airy construction

The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers – embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment – highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.

The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.

Calibre 2460 QCL/2

Beating at the heart of these two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, it beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.

———————————————————-

Sum-up

The two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watches in white and pink gold combine the classic attributes of the collection with an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The dial is made of sapphire crystal opening onto the movement featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic treatment. This total transparency on both sides of the watch highlights the technical nature of its horological complications. Equipped with a self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/2, these two 41 mm models provide a complete calendar display complemented by age of the moon and precision moon phase indications. The day and month are shown through central dial apertures below the 12 o’clock hour-marker, while the date is indicated on the periphery by a central hand. Already available in rose and white gold in a more classic interpretation with a solid dial, the two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface versions are paired with a grey alligator leather strap.

TECHNICAL DATA

Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654

Calibre
2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Assembled in three parts:

  • Slate grey guilloche upper part
  • Slate grey opaline flange
  • Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers

18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

/by