Tag Archive for: tourbillon

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Overseas tourbillon skeleton: A breath of fresh air for an emblematic complication

Overseas tourbillon skeleton: A breath of fresh air for an emblematic complication

  • First tourbillon skeleton watch in the Overseas collection
  • Two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium respectively 
  • First Vacheron Constantin all-titanium model with integrated bracelet
  • Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, redesigned and skeletonised with a new balance-spring featuring a Breguet overcoil

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – The tourbillon, one of the most emblematic Haute Horlogerie complications, joins the Overseas collection in a skeletonised version. Manufacture Calibre 2160 has been redesigned for the occasion in a contemporary, entirely openworked spirit. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium – first Vacheron Constantin model made entirely of this metal- versions complete with integrated bracelets, this watch is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case.

Vacheron Constantin continues the travel spirit of the Overseas watches with this new tourbillon skeleton model, a first in this collection launched in 1996. Beautifully streamlined with its entirely openworked movement; sophisticated with its robust case; rigorously disciplined with its tourbillon-driven movement ensuring a comfortable over three-day power reserve, this timepiece is designed for the finest journeys – exactly as François Constantin, the tireless traveller who signed an enduring alliance with Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron in 1819, would doubtless have presented it.

The watch comes in two versions, one in 18K 5N pink gold and the other in Grade 5 titanium. The titanium model is the first by the Maison to be entirely made of this same metal – from crown to bezel and from bracelet to case. The self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2160 powering these timepieces has been entirely skeletonised in a contemporary spirit with a degree of attention to detail stemming from an authentic aesthetic quest celebrated through Vacheron Constantin’s “Anatomy of Beauty ®” 2022 theme.

A finely crafted movement, Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ

The skeletonisation work carried out on self-winding Calibre 2160 has enabled not only a 20% reduction in the movement’s weight but also a complete rethink of its architecture. Its curvature is thus very slender, at barely 5.65 mm thick – a real technical feat considering the requirements linked to the integration of a tourbillon carriage. This thinness is notably due to the choice of a peripheral gold oscillating weight, which also enables a completely clear view of the rear of the movement. The work done on the baseplate and the four bridges can be clearly admired, with the NAC (N-acetylcysteine) surface treatment applied by electrolysis conferring an anthracite grey tint. This contemporary touch given to the movement blends perfectly with the classic haute horlogerie finishes in the form of hand-drawn flanks and hand-chamfering with polished bevels to accentuate the light playing across the components. The mainplate and bridges are also delicately decorated to create a finish of very fine, perfectly horizontal grooves. Such concern for details is a credo which holds that even the smallest part deserves the same meticulous attention as those that are perfectly visible.

The same NAC surface treatment can be found on the barrel, of which the drum and cover have been entirely openworked, creating a compass rose shape on the dial side – another original feature of Calibre 2160 SQ. To complete the openworking of this 186-component movement, the wheels have also been made lighter, while the tourbillon is held by a rounded-off upper bridge. The tourbillon regulator rotating once per minute operates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and serves as a small seconds indicator by means of one of the four screws used to secure the carriage and which is grey on the pink gold version and flame-blued on the titanium version.

For this new calibre, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have also redesigned the regulating organ housed in the tourbillon carriage coupled with the escapement. A new balance-spring was designed in-house, equipped with a Breguet overcoil (terminal curve). By folding the outer spring coil towards the centre, outside its horizontal plane, this arrangement forces a flat development of the spring, thus ensuring enhanced isochronism.

The art of details

The sapphire crystal serving as the dial reveals all the details of the calibre, like a horological anatomy taking shape with each component. The hour-markers secured to this crystal are in rhodium-plated 18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold, depending on the model. The same noble metals are used for the hands which, like the hour-markers, are coated with Super-LumiNova® ensuring perfect night-time visibility. The dial ring is available in black lacquered 18K 5N pink gold or in blue PVD-treated 18K white gold.

Particular care has been devoted to the finishing of the case and bracelet. The bezel ring is circular satin-brushed on the 18K 5N pink gold version and sandblasted on the Grade 5 titanium iteration. The case and bracelet of both models are vertically satin-brushed with polished angles on the bracelet links, whose shape is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem.

Both watches feature the Overseas collection specific interchangeable strap system. They come with two straps in calfskin and rubber: black with two 18K 5N pink gold pin buckles for the gold model; and blue with an interchangeable titanium folding clasp for the titanium model.

The Anatomy of Beauty ®

The Overseas tourbillon skeleton watch features architecture and finishes that are meticulous in every detail, reflecting the quest for excellence cherished by the Maison, whose 2022 “Anatomy of Beauty®” theme pays tribute to the extraordinary work of its artisans. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.**********************

Sum-up

Several “firsts” characterize the new Overseas tourbillon skeleton model. It is the first timepiece in the collection equipped with a tourbillon movement in a skeletonised version. The new Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, featuring hand-crafted finishes characteristic of haute horlogerie yet in a contemporary spirit, is equipped with an original regulating organ featuring a balance-spring with a Breguet overcoil. The openworking of the barrel reveals a cover shaped like compass rose, a novel design for Vacheron Constantin. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium, this latest version is the first Vacheron Constantin watch made entirely of this metal, including the bezel and crown. This breath of fresh air, which is entirely in keeping with the travel spirit of the Overseas collection, is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case. Each component is reworked and finished by hand, perfectly illustrating the Maison’s Anatomy of Beauty theme for 2022, which highlights all the richness and subtlety of the details featured in a Vacheron Constantin timepiece. Both versions come with two interchangeable leather and rubber straps.

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference
6000V/110R-B934
6000V/110T-B935

Calibre
2160 SQ
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)
186 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications                                   
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Tourbillon                            

Case                                                
18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium
42.5 mm diameter, 10.39 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Sapphire

18K 5N pink gold / 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®

Bracelet
18K 5N pink gold bracelet / Grade 5 Titanium (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system

Additional straps
Black / blue calfskin leather with white stitches
Black / blue rubber

Buckles
6000V/110R-B934: Each additional strap comes with a 18K 5N pink gold
6000V/110T-B935: Titanium Grade 5 interchangeable folding-clasp

Ref. 6000V/110T-B935 (titanium version) only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

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Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

  • Inspired by the Chinese Jade culture, the Traditionnelle tourbillon model is dedicated to China market, numbered and engraved in 30-piece limited edition.
  • A limited edition entirely dressed in Imperial Green, a color that represents the purest and highest grade of green jadeite.
  • Featuring the ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement, calibre 2160/1.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Geneva, November 29th, 2021 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Vacheron Constantin presents a high complication limited-edition timepiece, exclusive to the China market.

A Gentleman of Jade

“A gentleman of jade” is a well-known phrase since ancient China to describe a man with noble character. The Chinese believe that a real gentleman is elegant and dignified just as the Jade, which gives inspiration to the creation of the first high complication wristwatch specially designed for the China market. Considered as a mirror of Chinese civilization, Jade has been a treasure of Chinese tradition for thousands of years. This gemstone has been a symbol of high morality throughout Chinese history.

“Imperial Green”

The color of green is described in Chinese poetry as gentle, soothing, and full of vigour and energy. Living in a green environment or adding touches of green to your surroundings can surprisingly bring sophistication, tranquillity and vitality to life.

The well-known Hongshan (Green) Jade Dragon from the Neolithic Period – the earliest known jade dragon carving in China – defines the imperial nature of Green jade carvings. In modern times, jadeite, a harder form of jade known by Chinese, is greatly appreciated for its gentle, translucent, luxurious, but not overstated color.

A jade’s quality is largely determined by the purity of its color. Imperial green, the color that Vacheron Constantin’s first high complication China Limited Edition wristwatch is dressed in, is known to represent the purest and most sophisticated shade of green jadeite, and has a sharp boldness while retaining being understated and warm.

!!! No information available !!!

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

This Traditionnelle tourbillon watch features an elegant 41 mm-diameter case in 18K 5N pink gold which houses a self-winding movement developed by Vacheron Constantin.

In addition to the refinement of its openworked tourbillon carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, the emblem of the Manufacture and entirely hand chamfered and finished, Caliber 2160 is distinguished by its incredible slimness: this ultra-thin 188-part movement endowed with an approximately 80-hour power reserve measures just 5.65 mm thick. Its relatively sedate frequency (2.5 Hz), along with its 22K gold sandblasted peripheral oscillating weight, provide a chance to admire the steady beating of its mechanism and the exceptional level of traditional Côtes de Genève finishing visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The new Traditionnelle tourbillon China Limited Edition timepiece displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon, framed by an Imperial green-toned dial graced with gold hour-markers and bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands.

As an old Chinese saying goes, like the Jade, those who accomplish great things are modest about their capabilities. As the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition honors and interprets a Gentleman of Jade.

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Summary

Technical refinement meets aesthetic elegance in this model imbued with exquisite masculinity. It represents the epitome of radiance, balanced proportions, and subtle details. Faithful to the origins of Vacheron Constantin and dedicated to Chinese clients enamored of beautifully crafted watches that are both understated and distinguished. Issued in a 30-piece limited series exclusively for Mainland China, it asserts the style in the accordant shades of green: from the elegant Imperial green-toned sunburst finishing dial to the Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with 18K 5N pink gold buckle. Powered by the in-house self-winding Calibre 2160/1, this Traditionnelle tourbillon watch displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon.

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!!! No information available !!!

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference 6000T/000R-B972

Calibre
2160/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.4 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Imperial Green, sunburst finishing
18K 5N pink applied hour-markers and Maltese cross

Strap
Imperial Green Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Limited edition of 30 pieces, individually numbered

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Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

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IN THIS CELEBRATORY YEAR MARKING THE 300TH ANNIVERSARY OF PIERRE JAQUET-DROZ’S BIRTH, THE MAISON UNVEILS AN EXCEPTIONAL UNIQUE PIECE RESERVED FOR THE “ONLY WATCH” CHARITY AUCTION.

IN THIS CELEBRATORY YEAR MARKING THE 300TH ANNIVERSARY OF PIERRE JAQUET-DROZ’S BIRTH, THE MAISON UNVEILS AN EXCEPTIONAL UNIQUE PIECE RESERVED FOR THE “ONLY WATCH” CHARITY AUCTION.

For the ninth consecutive time, Jaquet Droz is proud to donate a unique piece of its own creation, designed exclusively for Only Watch, a charity sale to benefit the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy), and featuring a degree of technical ambition and aesthetic never-before achieved: A Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon adorned with a plique-à-jour enamel dial.

The original idea was to extend the initial purpose of the Grande Seconde to provide its owner with the finest and most accurate reading of the seconds—hence its largely dimensioned and off-center dial at 6 o’clock, exclusively dedicated to this effect. How could this precision be achieved? By adding a tourbillon. This escapement, itself a genuine watchmaking complication, aims to compensate for the harmful effects undergone by a timepiece that performs across multiple planes, all subjected to the force of gravity which alters its precision.

The tourbillon of the new Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” was born of Jaquet Droz’s in-house expertise, but entirely reworked in the purest chronometric approach. Thanks to its realization in titanium and the elimination of the sapphire bridges, the cage has been lightened and optimized with regards to its chronometric functions. The balance spring and pallet lugs are made of silicon. Highly open to let light pass through, the tourbillon gives the illusion of being both large and lightweight all at once. Completely revised and placed at noon, it accords the piece a dedicated identity of strength and technicality.

The underlying aesthetic architecture is as technical as it is unique. The skeleton structure is brand new: while the original Skelet-One favored soft and supple curves, the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” focuses on straight lines, angles, modernity and perfect symmetry. This very contemporary skeletonization is as technical as its highly precise tourbillon movement can be, furthering the technical and aesthetic consistency of the piece. Its bridges, finished in black, confer a powerful matte appearance. The tourbillon cage follows the geometry of the skeleton movement, with a triple cross shape which, once a minute, aligns perfectly with its bridges.

For Only Watch, Jaquet Droz put to work its Ateliers d’Art as well, in order to produce a highly exclusive plique-à-jour dial, made specially for the famous charity sale. Once again, whereas the Maison’s most recent plique-à-jour creations featured curves and soft, slightly domed lines, the Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” is made up of various straight and geometric sections separated by white gold, thus forming a dial which has been entirely polished flat. The Maison achieved this unprecedented result by applying an extremely fine diamond powder polish to each area of the enamel, the only kind capable of achieving this thickness.

Every tone of enamel has been painstakingly selected for the model and fired at a very high temperature several times in a row. The choice of these colors therefore owes nothing to chance: a color chart was proposed by Only Watch associating different tones with certain characteristics. The Maison thus translated these variations of red, orange and yellow into an expression of happiness, passion, optimism and even energy—all values that support the cause championed by Only Watch.

An aesthetic and technical achievement, the first Grande Seconde Skelet-One with tourbillon, the first with plique-à-jour enamel, a new geometry of skeleton movement, a fully updated tourbillon… the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” is many things. It’s also the perfect match between an age-old complication and craftsmanship on the one hand, and an eminently modern technique and geometry on the other. A rare, precise balance, like any Jaquet Droz timepiece, which foreshadows all the ambitions of the Maison’s future Skelet-One collection.

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A. Lange & Söhne – CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST

CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST

Platinum with enamelled and hand-engraved white-gold dial

Exquisite craftsmanship.

The CABARET TOURBILLON is a milestone in the history of precision watchmaking. In 2008, with this watch, A. Lange & Söhne succeeded for the first time in stopping the tourbillon with a V-shaped arresting spring. This made it possible to set a watch with this complication with one-second accuracy. The watch is based on Lange’s only rectangular model that since its launch has stood for extravagance as well as for a distinctive movement philosophy: the CABARET.

Limited to 30 pieces, the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST is now totally dedicated to a heritage in art. The seventh model of the HANDWERKSKUNST series is characterised by artisanally elaborate finissage of the dial and the movement. The inner area of the three-part solid white-gold dial is manually engraved with a lozenge pattern. A semi-transparent enamel layer adds extra depth to the engraving and showcases various metallic shades of grey. The result is a special dial with a three-dimensional effect.

The manually wound calibre L042.1 has a twin mainspring barrel that delivers a power reserve of 120 hours. It is a masterpiece of technology and craftsmanship. It is composed of 370 parts, of which no fewer than 84 are integrated in the filigreed tourbillon that weighs only a quarter of a gram. Measuring 22.3 by 32.6 millimetres, the form movement is tailored to the rectangular shape of the case. In comparison with the 2008 version, it has a new indexless oscillation system with a Lange balance spring. The lozenge motif of the dial is echoed by the black-rhodiumed engravings on the tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks, creating a visual bridge between the dial and the movement side.

This model was introduced in 2021. The dial is crafted from solid white gold and features manual engravings in the lozenge design style and semi-transparent enamelling. The hands are made of rhodiumed gold.

Price: 320.300,00 €*

*Recommended retail price in Spain including VAT. Non-binding quotation, prices subject to change.
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Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon
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BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: UNA HECHA DEL ZAFIRO PURO

BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: A FEAT OF PURE SAPPHIRE

Es cierto que a veces menos es más, quizás mucho más. Con el Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire, Hublot ha llevado su Art of Fusion a su máxima conclusión. Un nuevo brazalete integral y caja hechos a medida de zafiro: esta hazaña afirma una vez más la competencia técnica y la experiencia excepcional que Hublot ha adquirido en el trabajo del zafiro.

Abril de 2021: para algunos, esto parecerá un desarrollo natural. Para otros, será una desconexión total. El resultado final es un poco de cada uno. El Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire es el fruto de una larga tradición. Tiene sus raíces en 2016, y el Big Bang Unico Sapphire, el primer reloj de zafiro. Con esta pieza, Hublot tradujo la experiencia que había desarrollado en el mecanizado de materiales muy duros para crear una serie excepcional de relojes de zafiro. Hoy, Hublot está ampliando estos límites aún más: el primer Big Bang con una caja y un brazalete integrados, ambos hechos de zafiro. Una (r) evolución natural y una proeza altamente técnica en igual medida.

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

“Para una creación tan excepcional, optamos por el nuevo calibre Tourbillon Automático con sus puentes de zafiro, cuya transparencia crea un espectáculo deslumbrante. Sin embargo, el acto de crear una caja y un brazalete integrados de zafiro se consideró imposible. la primera marca en obtener un dominio perfecto del zafiro, industrializándolo y haciéndolo reproducible en la producción en serie. Nos llevó cinco años dar vida a nuestras primeras cajas de zafiro, y casi el mismo tiempo para la pulsera. Producir ambos a partir de zafiro e integrarlos juntos es el pináculo del trabajo en profundidad realizado por todos los equipos de Hublot. Estamos orgullosos de ser los que escribimos las primeras líneas de este nuevo capítulo en la historia de los materiales ” – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Los relojeros son a veces los únicos que conocen ciertos detalles de sus relojes. Con una caja y un brazalete hechos completamente de zafiro, se revelan todos los secretos: el movimiento y la carcasa se fusionan, y todos los aspectos son visibles.

La caja de este nuevo Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire ha sido reconstruida en su totalidad para albergar el movimiento Tourbillon Automático. El objetivo: quitar casi todos los tornillos visibles, revisar la geometría general de la caja para integrarla con el brazalete de zafiro, desarrollar un nuevo perfil de caja para albergar el brazalete de zafiro y volver a trabajar los puentes y las placas principales para darles la ilusión. de estar suspendido en el espacio. Hublot también desarrolló inserciones y accesorios que se redujeron a su expresión más simple, para permitir que la luz atraviese todos los componentes. Así, la caja está compuesta por no menos de 37 componentes, cinco de los cuales están hechos únicamente de zafiro.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

 

La pulsera también fue un desafío complejo: solo consta de 165 componentes, 22 de los cuales están hechos de zafiro. Cada componente tenía su propio proceso industrial. Un tercio de estos fueron diseñados especialmente para brindar una armonía única con la transparencia de la carcasa y para ofrecer fluidez y flexibilidad. De particular interés son las inserciones de titanio desarrolladas por Hublot, ultrareducidas para garantizar que no sobresalgan de ninguno de los lados de cada eslabón de la pulsera, una novedad para la fabricación y probablemente para la relojería.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

 

En cuanto al movimiento, el calibre de manufactura automático HUB6035, diseñado y fabricado íntegramente en casa, es el corazón palpitante de la pieza. Demuestra un perfecto equilibrio entre el micro-rotor a las 12 horas y el tourbillon a las 6 horas, y también con sus tres puentes de zafiro transparente, exclusivos de este nuevo Big Bang. Los componentes parecen estar literalmente suspendidos en el espacio. Cada tren de engranajes no solo es penetrado por la luz que ingresa desde el lado del dial y pasa a través del movimiento del esqueleto en el otro lado: ahora, y por primera vez, la luz ingresa al corazón del Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire desde todas las direcciones. Se difunde, refracta, refleja, se retuerce y gira: un fragmento de luz encapsulado en la muñeca.
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ROGER DUBUIS – A NEW TRIBE LANDS AS AN ICON ASCENDS

A NEW TRIBE LANDS AS AN ICON ASCENDS

Roger Dubuis has consistently demonstrated a penchant for impertinence and extravagance. Sustained by an integrated manufacture, a flagrant disregard for convention is the backbone of its bold attitude. A true innovator, the luxury watchmaker is driven by an irrepressible willingness to come up with high-impact ideas, boundary-pushing technologies and unmistakable out-of-the-box designs. Living by the motto NO RULES, OUR GAME, the Maison proves once again it is the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY IS HERE

Extravagant, determined and disruptive, the bold and bright are the ones that stand out. Just like any star should. But a star doesn’t just appear. It takes dedication. Innovation. Craftsmanship. Only then can an icon ascend…Introducing the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon: a star restyled for the new world.

To mark the launch of the inimitable skeleton design reinterpreted with a contemporary touch, Roger Dubuis is set to celebrate modern art in all its shapes. Taking form in Hyper Horology with the Maison’s most recent interpretation of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon, this icon of watchmaking is brought to a whole new level; a masterpiece that cannot be ignored, just like its wearer.

Finding kinship with those disruptive souls who dare to make a difference, the Maison partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, world-famous urban culture artists that reflect Roger Dubuis’ values: break the rules, showcase radical expertise and obsess daily over the design of the future.

excalibursingleflyingtourbillon15

THE EXCALIBUR SINGLE FLYING TOURBILLON: FROM A TIMEPIECE TO A MASTERPIECE

Roger Dubuis continues shaking up the world of haute horlogerie with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon. Enhanced with meticulous care, the timepiece is reinterpreted with sophistication and flair using modern and technical materials.

A contemporary masterpiece for the wrist, the new design showcases clean cut lines on both case and movement. Creating the impression of a thinner look and feel, while heightening the sense of transparency and depth, the calibre is rebuilt from bottom to top in an architectural feat that sees the Roger Dubuis star now levitate freely above the barrel. A strong visual identity is created with a signature two-line pattern – seen between the notch on the crown and bezel, the star’s arms, the tourbillon’s cage, the hour’s marking on the flange, the hands – all of which cleverly appear as though they will meet but never do. This dynamic aesthetic is amplified by the Poinçon de Genève, the most demanding signature in fine watchmaking and one that requires the manual decoration of each and every component of the watch, as well as unexpected and antinomic decorations in modern haute horlogerie, such as circular-brushed top surfaces and polished angles that demonstrate Roger Dubuis’ visionary approach.

Always keeping the wearer in mind, the new RD512SQ calibre is stunning in its technical prowess. Now with a titanium lower tourbillon cage – twice lighter than stainless steel – and a mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome upper tourbillon cage, the weight of the piece is reduced to optimum effect. All of which allows the power reserve to be radically optimised to 72 hours, providing the option of leaving the watch unworn over weekends without the worry of resetting come Monday. Proving no detail goes unconsidered, non-magnetic material is used inside the tourbillon to better serve the wearers and improve their experience.

Comfort is key, which is why a range of entirely new strap sizes have become available. With 5 sizes from 0 to 4, finding the perfect strap ensures the buckle is always centred on the wrist, as a Quick Release System offers ultimate flexibility. Underscored by rarity, the 42mm case is only available in eighty-eight pieces per colourway: Dark Grey DLC Titanium, Cobalt Chrome CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM and the new EON GOLD, a pink gold shade that remains more stable thanks to non-tarnish technology. Reimagined for a contemporary era, an icon ascends in the shape of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE ART OF GLOW

Showcasing the Maison’s obsession with art, light and luminescence, in addition to our icons comes the Excalibur Glow Me Up, a world-premiere for Roger Dubuis limited to just eight timepieces.

By day, the new Single Flying Tourbillon calibre is elegantly adorned with 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel. By night, it’s a complete different version that comes to life through this vibrant timepiece with luminescent and dazzling diamonds, an achievement made possible thanks to an intricate two-part process. The first involves filling the grooves that hold the stones in place with Super-Luminova, a singular way to make the diamonds appear luminescent without altering them. Secondly, an additional patent enables Super-Luminova to be applied on the angles of the movement, as well as to the iconic star-shaped bridge.Because at Roger Dubuis less is never more.

ART IN THE MAKING

Roger Dubuis is a destination for the avant-garde. Committed to non-conformity, the Maison stands with those who choose to blaze their own trail. To show what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed, Roger Dubuis partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, composed of three urban culture creatives – tattoo artist Dr. Woo, graffiti artist Gully and mixed-media artist Liu Wei. Rulebreakers in their own fields, they too shape the future by refusing to take ‘no’ for an answer. Brought together to unite a wider community of daring minds, Roger Dubuis and the URBAN ART TRIBE hope to encourage people to challenge the way things are, just as the Maison does when it comes to Hyper Horology, and Dr. Woo and Gully do in their industries.

A leading name among an influential elite who see tattoos, art and fashion as an indissociable whole, Dr. Woo’s singular approach to needle style has shifted the paradigm for tattoos, taking them from subculture to broad popular appeal. Of the partnership he says: “I’ve taken this path because I don’t know where it leads, and that is exactly why I’m here – to seek the unknown and go out of my comfort zone. Tattooing and watchmaking have that in common: the same attention to detail, a dot vs. a tiny component, assembled perfectly for you to see the bigger picture.”

Gully, a well-known graffiti artist, chooses to work exclusively in his own atelier to maintain his anonymity. He uses a wide variety of mixed techniques and materials and explains his artistic concept as one based on conscious appropriation. Telling visual stories of children appearing in splendid settings, he reveals their enchantment with art and particularly with the paintings of the great masters. Speaking to the concept of the tribe, he comments: “Two worlds, a crossing path. I feel driven by the same energy and insatiable envy to come up with something we have never seen before. It comes as a bombshell, provokes surprise, and arouses interest. Bringing different worlds together is my trademark, so I can’t wait to show you the Gully x Roger Dubuis mixture.”

Generously opening the doors to their respective workshops, Dr. Woo and Gully will begin their long-term partnerships with Roger Dubuis by first sharing their creative processes at work. Initially set to reinterpret the brand’s iconic astral signature, they will continue to co-create the future of Hyper Horology alongside the Maison.

AN EXCLUSIVE INVITATION

From April 7 to 13th, Roger Dubuis turns this year’s Watches&Wonders edition into an interactive journey for its guests to dive into the realms of the Maison’s creative process and beyond. Come and celebrate contemporary art in all its shapes, from Hyper Horology to tattoo art, graffiti and beyond.

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RICHARD MILLE – RM 27-04 TOURBILLON RAFAEL NADAL

RICHARD MILLE – RM 27-04 TOURBILLON RAFAEL NADAL

CELEBRATING A 10-YEAR PARTNERSHIP

Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes
• Calibre can resist accelerations of over 12,000 g’s, a record for Richard Mille
• Case produced in a brand new material exclusive to the watchmaking brand: TitaCarb®
• Limited edition of 50 watches

Two men, each with a dream. A dream of pushing back the boundaries of time, or those of performance. One of them on clay, keeping his eyes on the ball; the other with his face turned to time itself. Yet both combine technique, harmony and accuracy while resisting the hard knocks, and inevitable shocks of sporting life.

For Rafael Nadal, ‘unstoppable’ is the word that best expresses the spirit of Richard Mille and his teams. Achieving the impossible. This has been the brand’s credo for the past decade in designing the unique pieces worn by the Spaniard on the world’s tennis courts. And the latest product of their partnership, the RM 27-04, is no exception to this golden rule.

The RM 27-04 balances a lightweight design–at 30 grams including the strap–with tremendous resistance. Its tourbillon calibre, which is suspended within the case, can resist accelerations of more than 12,000 g’s, a record for Richard Mille. The movement is entirely supported by a micro-blasted mesh just 855 square millimetres in surface, comprised of a single cable in braided steel measuring 0.27mm in diameter, and held in place by two tensioners in PVD-treated 5N gold. This construction is unprecedented in the world of watchmaking.

Inspired by the same principle as the strings of a tennis racquet, the watchmaker anchors the steel cable to a tensioner positioned at 5 o’clock and then begins to create the mesh, tying each of the main strings before adding the cross strings. Weaving above and below the main strings, the cable passes 38 times through the hollow bezel in grade 5 titanium before finishing in a tensioner positioned at 10 o’clock. The movement is positioned diagonally, connected to the mesh by five grade 5 polished titanium hooks with 5N gold PVD coating that extend from the back of the baseplate.

However, the singularities of the RM 27-04 do not end with its mesh. The case, with its sandblasted and polished surfaces, is also innovative in its use of an exclusive material, TitaCarb®. This highperformance polyamide has been strengthened with a 38.5% carbon fibre content.

This addition of carbon gives TitaCarb® exceptional tensile strength—370 MPa (3,700 kg/cm2)—making it one of the most resistant polymers in the world.

This new model fits in perfectly with the previous watch collections created for the Spanish champion. It is unique in more ways than one, as it also marks the 10th anniversary of the partnership between

Rafael Nadal and Richard Mille. Initially a purely professional rapport, the collaboration between the 12-time French Open winner and the founder of the brand that bears his name has since turned into a solid friendship. A ‘ very special’ relationship, according to the Majorcan, this friendship grows constantly from their mutual trust and admiration for their respective careers.

The RM 27-04 is the new ally on court for ‘ Rafa’, whose shortened version of his name is engraved on the case band. This watch, a limited edition of 50 pieces, will accompany Rafael Nadal in his quest for new trophies.

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A new feminine look for Audemars Piguets royal oak concept flying tourbillon
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A new feminine look for Audemars Piguet’s royal oak concept flying tourbillon

Le Brassus, July 2020—Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to present a new take on its women’s Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, which pursues the collection’s interweaving of refined feminine aesthetics and complicated micro-mechanics.

A new feminine look for Audemars Piguets royal oak concept flying tourbillon

Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

A new feminine look for Audemars Piguets royal oak concept flying tourbillon

A new feminine look for Audemars Piguets royal oak concept flying tourbillon

Available in 18-carat pink or white gold, the new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon combines the case’s shimmering Frosted Gold finish with a contemporary dial composed of multiple layers. For the first time, the Royal Oak Concept’s case is adorned with Frosted Gold—an ancient Florentine jewellery technique revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and adapted to adorn the Manufacture’s watches. Tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones, like diamond dust. Superposed to the bezel’s polished bevels, this finishing highlights the watch’s design codes, while capturing attention from a distance.


The shimmering case nicely frames the multi-layered dial composed of four juxtaposed circles of increasing size and graded hues of blue emanating from the flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. The graded nuances and sunburst motif further accentuate the dial’s depth and refinement. The flying tourbillon cage also presents a modern design with openworked gold-toned circles topped with an elegant touch of brilliant-cut diamonds. No hour-markers have been included on the dial to enhance the purity of this contemporary design.


Combining tradition and modernity, these watches are powered by hand-wound Manufacture calibre 2964. The flying tourbillon—a high-end complication compensating for the effect of gravity on a watch—is today considered as of one the greatest expressions of watchmaking art. Only a few expert watchmakers retain the necessary skills for its realisation. The movement’s circular motif, visible through the sapphire caseback recalls the dial’s pattern. The alternation of sandblasting and satin-brushing also echoes the finishes of the Frosted Gold case and sunburst dial.


The two highly contemporary models are adorned with a blue “large square-scale” alligator strap for an elegant contrast. An additional blue textured rubber strap with constellation motif, recalling the Frosted Gold case, is also available. Both straps are complemented with a folding clasp adorned with Frosted Gold for a refined look to the slightest detail.

A new feminine look for Audemars Piguets royal oak concept flying tourbillon

“Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon // 38.5 mm
26630OR.GG.D326CR.01
FUNCTIONS
Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes.
CASE
Hammered 18-carat pink gold case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, crown set with a translucent sapphire cabochon, water-resistant to 20m.
DIAL
Multi-layered, graded blue dial with sunburst pattern, pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
STRAP
Hand-stitched “large square-scale” blue alligator strap with hammered 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp. Additional shiny blue textured rubber strap.
MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Hand-wound Manufacture Calibre 2964
Total diameter 29.5 mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 6.63 mm
Number of parts 207
Number of jewels 17
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 72 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
4
Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon // 38.5 mm
26630BC.GG.D326CR.01
FUNCTIONS
Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes.
CASE
Hammered 18-carat white gold case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, crown set with a translucent sapphire cabochon, water-resistant to 20m.
DIAL
Multi-layered, graded blue dial with sunburst pattern, white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
STRAP
Hand-stitched “large square-scale” blue alligator strap with hammered 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp. Additional shiny blue textured rubber strap.
MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Hand-wound Manufacture Calibre 2964
Total diameter 29.5 mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 6.63 mm
Number of parts 207
Number of jewels 17
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 72 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)

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code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019
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CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET – Tourbillon Openworked only watch Unique piece

Le Brassus, – Swiss Haute Horlogerie Manufacturer Audemars Piguet presents its Only Watch unique piece 2019: the two-tone Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked.

CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET – TOURBILLON OPENWORKED ONLY WATCH UNIQUE PIECE 2019

The unique model’s two-tone case emphasizes the architectural complexity of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Its 18-carat pink gold octagonal middle case subtly contrasts with the 18-carat white gold extra-thin bezel, lugs and caseback. Satin-brushed, bevelled and polished, the bezel, lugs and case present refined finishing techniques usually found on calibres. The caseback is engraved with “Unique Piece.”

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

This watch houses a hand-wound tourbillon openworked movement, calibre 2948. Its rhodium-toned openworked plate, finished with vertical traits-tirés, is enhanced by pink gold-toned titanium tourbillon and barrel bridges with polished rhodium-toned angles. Echoing the two-tone colour of the case, the decoration of this movement amplifies the watch’s multi-tiered construction. With 70 hand-polished angles, the hand finishing on this movement pushes the openworking art to new heights.


The opaline silver-toned white gold inner bezel nicely frames the openworked movement and accentuates the extra-thinness of the watch’s bezel, barely visible around the dial. The long 18-carat pink gold hands add yet another subtle touch of colour.

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

This unique model comes with a black alligator strap, which further highlights the refinement and artistry of the watch’s case and movement.
François-Henry Bennahmias, Audemars Piguet Chief Executive Officer, rejoices over Audemars Piguet’s participation in this event: “We are proud to contribute to this charity auction once more and help advance scientific and medical research.”

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked // 41mm
26600CR.OO.D002CR.99
FUNCTIONS
Tourbillon, hours and minute.
CASE
18-carat pink gold case, 18-carat white gold bezel, lugs and caseback, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m.
DIAL
Opaline silver-toned 18-carat white gold inner bezel, openworked, 18-carat pink gold hands.
STRAP
Hand-stitched “large square scale” black alligator strap with 18-carat white gold folding clasp.
MOVEMENT
Hand-wound Manufacture calibre 2948
Total diameter: 31.65 mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness: 4.97 mm
Number of parts: 196
Number of jewels: 19
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 80 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Join the #AudemarsPiguet & discussions @AudemarsPiguet

About Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is the oldest fine watchmaking manufacturer still in the hands of its founding families (Audemars and Piguet). Since 1875, the company has written some of the finest chapters in the history of Haute Horlogerie, including a number of world firsts. In the Vallée de Joux, at the heart of the Swiss Jura, numerous masterpieces are created in limited series embodying a remarkable degree of horological perfection, including daring sporty models, classic and traditional timepieces, splendid ladies’ jewellery-watches, as well as one-of-a-kind creations. www.audemarspiguet.com
©Audemars Piguet 2019

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