Tag Archive for: tourbillon

IN THIS CELEBRATORY YEAR MARKING THE 300TH ANNIVERSARY OF PIERRE JAQUET-DROZ’S BIRTH, THE MAISON UNVEILS AN EXCEPTIONAL UNIQUE PIECE RESERVED FOR THE “ONLY WATCH” CHARITY AUCTION.

For the ninth consecutive time, Jaquet Droz is proud to donate a unique piece of its own creation, designed exclusively for Only Watch, a charity sale to benefit the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy), and featuring a degree of technical ambition and aesthetic never-before achieved: A Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon adorned with a plique-à-jour enamel dial.

The original idea was to extend the initial purpose of the Grande Seconde to provide its owner with the finest and most accurate reading of the seconds—hence its largely dimensioned and off-center dial at 6 o’clock, exclusively dedicated to this effect. How could this precision be achieved? By adding a tourbillon. This escapement, itself a genuine watchmaking complication, aims to compensate for the harmful effects undergone by a timepiece that performs across multiple planes, all subjected to the force of gravity which alters its precision.

The tourbillon of the new Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” was born of Jaquet Droz’s in-house expertise, but entirely reworked in the purest chronometric approach. Thanks to its realization in titanium and the elimination of the sapphire bridges, the cage has been lightened and optimized with regards to its chronometric functions. The balance spring and pallet lugs are made of silicon. Highly open to let light pass through, the tourbillon gives the illusion of being both large and lightweight all at once. Completely revised and placed at noon, it accords the piece a dedicated identity of strength and technicality.

The underlying aesthetic architecture is as technical as it is unique. The skeleton structure is brand new: while the original Skelet-One favored soft and supple curves, the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” focuses on straight lines, angles, modernity and perfect symmetry. This very contemporary skeletonization is as technical as its highly precise tourbillon movement can be, furthering the technical and aesthetic consistency of the piece. Its bridges, finished in black, confer a powerful matte appearance. The tourbillon cage follows the geometry of the skeleton movement, with a triple cross shape which, once a minute, aligns perfectly with its bridges.

For Only Watch, Jaquet Droz put to work its Ateliers d’Art as well, in order to produce a highly exclusive plique-à-jour dial, made specially for the famous charity sale. Once again, whereas the Maison’s most recent plique-à-jour creations featured curves and soft, slightly domed lines, the Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” is made up of various straight and geometric sections separated by white gold, thus forming a dial which has been entirely polished flat. The Maison achieved this unprecedented result by applying an extremely fine diamond powder polish to each area of the enamel, the only kind capable of achieving this thickness.

Every tone of enamel has been painstakingly selected for the model and fired at a very high temperature several times in a row. The choice of these colors therefore owes nothing to chance: a color chart was proposed by Only Watch associating different tones with certain characteristics. The Maison thus translated these variations of red, orange and yellow into an expression of happiness, passion, optimism and even energy—all values that support the cause championed by Only Watch.

An aesthetic and technical achievement, the first Grande Seconde Skelet-One with tourbillon, the first with plique-à-jour enamel, a new geometry of skeleton movement, a fully updated tourbillon… the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” is many things. It’s also the perfect match between an age-old complication and craftsmanship on the one hand, and an eminently modern technique and geometry on the other. A rare, precise balance, like any Jaquet Droz timepiece, which foreshadows all the ambitions of the Maison’s future Skelet-One collection.

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

BIG BANG INTEGRAL TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE: A FEAT OF PURE SAPPHIRE

It is true that sometimes less is more – perhaps a lot more. With the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire, Hublot has taken its Art of Fusion to its ultimate conclusion. A new integral bracelet and case custom-made from sapphire: this feat affirms yet again the technical proficiency and the exceptional expertise that Hublot has acquired in the working of sapphire.

 April 2021 – For some, this will seem a natural development. For others, it will be a total disconnect. The final result is a little of each. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire is the fruit of a long tradition. It is rooted in 2016, and the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, the first sapphire watch. With this piece, Hublot translated the expertise it had developed in machining very hard materials to create an exceptional series of sapphire watches. Today, Hublot is pushing these boundaries even further: the first Big Bang with an integrated case and bracelet, both of which are made from sapphire. A natural (r)evolution and a highly technical feat in equal measure.

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

” For such an exceptional creation, we opted for the new Automatic Tourbillon calibre with its sapphire bridges, the transparency of which creates a stunning spectacle. The act of creating an integrated case and bracelet from sapphire was, however, deemed impossible. But we were the first brand to gain perfect mastery of sapphire, industrialising it and making it reproducible in series production. It took us five years to bring our first sapphire cases to life – and almost as long for the bracelet. Producing both from sapphire and integrating them together is the pinnacle of the in-depth work undertaken by all of Hublot’s teams. We are proud to be the ones writing the first lines in this new chapter in the history of materials”. – Ricardo Guadalupe, HUBLOT CEO

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Watchmakers are sometimes the only ones to know certain details of their watches. With a case and bracelet made entirely from sapphire, all secrets are revealed: the movement and casing fuse, and every aspect is visible.

The case of this new Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire has been reconstructed in its entirety to house the Automatic Tourbillon movement. The goal: to remove almost all of the visible screws, overhaul the general geometry of the case to integrate it with the sapphire bracelet, develop a new case profile to house the sapphire bracelet, and rework the bridges and main plates to give them the illusion of being suspended in space. Hublot also developed inserts and attachments which were reduced to their simplest expression, to allow light through every component. The case is thus composed of no fewer than 37 components, five of which are made solely from sapphire.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

The bracelet was also a complex challenge: it alone comprises 165 components, 22 of which are made from sapphire. Each component had its own industrial process. A third of these were specially designed to provide unique harmony with the transparency of the case, and to offer fluidity and flexibility. Of particular note are the titanium inserts Hublot developed, ultra-reduced to ensure they do not protrude either side of each bracelet link – a first for the manufacture, and probably for watchmaking.
Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

Big Bang Integral Sapphir Tourbillon

In terms of the movement, the HUB6035 automatic manufacture calibre, entirely designed and manufactured in-house, is the beating heart of the piece. It demonstrates a perfect balance between the micro-rotor at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and also with its three transparent sapphire bridges, exclusive to this new Big Bang. The components appear to be literally suspended in space. Each gear train is not only penetrated by light coming in from the dial side and passing through the skeleton movement on the other side: now, and for the first time, light enters the heart of the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire from all directions. It is diffused, refracted, reflected, twisted and twirled – a fragment of light encapsulated on the wrist.
code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

Le Brassus, – Swiss Haute Horlogerie Manufacturer Audemars Piguet presents its Only Watch unique piece 2019: the two-tone Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked.

CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET – TOURBILLON OPENWORKED ONLY WATCH UNIQUE PIECE 2019

The unique model’s two-tone case emphasizes the architectural complexity of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Its 18-carat pink gold octagonal middle case subtly contrasts with the 18-carat white gold extra-thin bezel, lugs and caseback. Satin-brushed, bevelled and polished, the bezel, lugs and case present refined finishing techniques usually found on calibres. The caseback is engraved with “Unique Piece.”

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

This watch houses a hand-wound tourbillon openworked movement, calibre 2948. Its rhodium-toned openworked plate, finished with vertical traits-tirés, is enhanced by pink gold-toned titanium tourbillon and barrel bridges with polished rhodium-toned angles. Echoing the two-tone colour of the case, the decoration of this movement amplifies the watch’s multi-tiered construction. With 70 hand-polished angles, the hand finishing on this movement pushes the openworking art to new heights.


The opaline silver-toned white gold inner bezel nicely frames the openworked movement and accentuates the extra-thinness of the watch’s bezel, barely visible around the dial. The long 18-carat pink gold hands add yet another subtle touch of colour.

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019code-11-59-by-audemars-piguet-tourbillon-openworked-only-watch-unique-piece-2019

This unique model comes with a black alligator strap, which further highlights the refinement and artistry of the watch’s case and movement.
François-Henry Bennahmias, Audemars Piguet Chief Executive Officer, rejoices over Audemars Piguet’s participation in this event: “We are proud to contribute to this charity auction once more and help advance scientific and medical research.”

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked // 41mm
26600CR.OO.D002CR.99
FUNCTIONS
Tourbillon, hours and minute.
CASE
18-carat pink gold case, 18-carat white gold bezel, lugs and caseback, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m.
DIAL
Opaline silver-toned 18-carat white gold inner bezel, openworked, 18-carat pink gold hands.
STRAP
Hand-stitched “large square scale” black alligator strap with 18-carat white gold folding clasp.
MOVEMENT
Hand-wound Manufacture calibre 2948
Total diameter: 31.65 mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness: 4.97 mm
Number of parts: 196
Number of jewels: 19
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 80 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
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About Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is the oldest fine watchmaking manufacturer still in the hands of its founding families (Audemars and Piguet). Since 1875, the company has written some of the finest chapters in the history of Haute Horlogerie, including a number of world firsts. In the Vallée de Joux, at the heart of the Swiss Jura, numerous masterpieces are created in limited series embodying a remarkable degree of horological perfection, including daring sporty models, classic and traditional timepieces, splendid ladies’ jewellery-watches, as well as one-of-a-kind creations. www.audemarspiguet.com
©Audemars Piguet 2019