Tag Archive for: watch

RELOJES, Relojes Automáticos, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes Edición Limitada

OMEGA Goes for Gold With a new Seamaster Aqua Terra Tokyo 2020

OMEGA Goes for Gold
With a new Seamaster Aqua Terra Tokyo 2020

Known as the ultimate prize at the Olympic Games, a gold medal represents the greatest accomplishment of an athlete’s career. In tribute to that iconic sporting honour, the Swiss watchmaker OMEGA has crafted two unique timepieces, each dedicated to the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020, and made in full 18K yellow gold.

OMEGA has been the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932, and will serve in the role for the 29th time when the prestigious event begins this July in Japan. If anybody knows about the precision, excellence and commitment required to stand at the top of the Olympic Games podium – it’s OMEGA!

The new Seamaster Aqua Terra watches are offered in 38 mm or 41 mm sizes, and both stand out for their radiant yellow gold cases. As always, OMEGA has used 18K gold, considered to be the premium standard in watch and jewellery making, with its superb balance between purity and practicality.

Presented on blue leather straps, the watches are also notable for their polished blue ceramic dials, which have been laser-engraved with a pattern inspired by the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games emblem. The full emblem can also be found transferred on the casebacks, while inside, each timepiece is driven by a Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre, guaranteeing the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision, performance and magnetic resistance.

Appropriately, one of the first people to wear this new watch on their wrist is Michael Phelps – the most decorated Olympian in history with 28 Olympic Games medals, including 23 gold. Michael has been a part of the OMEGA brand family since 2004, and has always known about the importance of time for an athlete.

He says, “If you’re an Olympian, or trying to become an Olympian, it’s a 24-hour, 7 day a week job. It’s non-stop. It’s around-the-clock.” And he knows exactly what it takes to achieve that coveted gold medal, saying, “To really be prepared for an Olympic Games, you have to put in the work. You have to go through the struggle. For the journey I went five times, it was never easy, but I know the work that I was doing gave me the results that I deserved.”

The new Seamaster Aqua Terra Tokyo 2020 Gold Editions come with OMEGA’s full 5-year warranty and are delivered to customers inside a special presentation box.

2 August, 2021/by Nico Nico

Accesorios y Complementos, Anillos, Belleza, Collares, Complementos y accesorios, DESTACADOS, Especial, ESTILO DE VIDA, EVENTOS, JOYERÍA, MODA, Oro, Pendientes, Pulseras

HAPPY DIAMOND: CHOPARD’S ADN, JULIA ROBERTS INTERPRET THE JOIE DE VIVRE

They whirl, they waltz, they twirl, they appear to float as if weightless and almost make one forget the passing of time. There is nothing more mesmerising than the exquisite motion of the diamonds at the heart of Happy Diamonds watches and jewellery. Free to move at will, they seem to be vibrantly alive.

They perform free variations and dance as if they will do so forever. Diamonds make light of all prevailing rules and norms, including the law of gravity. Protected between two sapphire crystals, they spin according to the movements of the woman who wears the creations of the Maison on her arm, in the hollow of her neck or adorning her ears. A graceful double ballet generated by the wearer’s movements with which the diamonds keep step – or decide to follow their own path.

Invented by the Chopard workshops in the 1970s, the idea came out during a stroll in the Black Forest of Chopard decorator and designer Ronald Kurowski marvelled at the sight of a waterfall: the drops of water bursting from it reflecting the sunlight and shimmered like the colours of the rainbow. This vision sparked his brilliant idea of enabling diamonds to shine more brightly by freeing them from their retaining claw settings and enabling them to move about freely. But above all, so that they can whirl freely on the watch face, the dancing diamonds are set in a domed cylinder culet. When she caught sight of them, Karin Scheufele spontaneously exclaimed “these diamonds are happier because they are set free”, everybody was agreed that the sentence was very appropriated, and they called them “Happy Diamonds”.

Since the Happy Diamonds, the history of Chopard has been punctuated by iconic collections that have made their mark on the development of both watchmaking and jewellery, no doubt that the most important was the creation of the Happy Sport watch.

Happy Sport is the stroke of genius of a young woman driven by boundless daring and creativity. First introduced by Caroline Scheufele in 1993, it bears within it the countless transformations of an era and embodies Joie de Vivre and the free-spirited attitude to which contemporary women aspire.

Having become a quintessential fashion and watchmaking icon, the Happy Sport collection has continued to stage the enchanting choreography of its dancing diamonds through a multitude of variations that have appealed to every generation, embodying a new way of contemplating time. A look back at this true watchmaking legend. As a young woman, she sparked Chopard’s first profound transformation by launching the family Maison into jewellery-making with her clown pendant design. Having entered the field of design through this masterstroke, Caroline Scheufele – now serving as Co-President and Artistic Director – was driven from the early 1990s by the idea of a versatile watch whose precious, casual appearance would make it equally easy to wear on a tennis court, at a business lunch or for an evening out on the town.

She picked up the concept of dancing diamonds, she decided to place them between two sapphire crystals above the dial. One of her workshop foremen told her it was impossible, before nonetheless promising: “Caroline! If you manage to sell these watches, I’ll give you one rose for each of them.” That only further strengthened the determination of the woman who has always considered that “no” is not an answer. She busied herself with transforming this idea into a viable project. The result presented in 1993 was a real surprise.

For the first time in watchmaking history, here was a watch mingling steel and diamonds, fitted with a soft, comfortable pebble-link bracelet, set with cabochon-cut sapphires on the lugs and on the crown echoing the understated blued hands; and finally, featuring a white dial enhanced by seven diamonds caught up in an animated dance recalling the whirlwind of life itself. The aptly named Happy Sport became a new casual chic fashion icon, acclaimed by the press and in strong demand in the markets. Over the years, Happy Sport has generated a magnificent array of interpretations equalled by very few other watches. This abundance has enabled the collection to become the first collector’s item ladies’ watch. Today, for the first time, the Happy Sport watch is appearing in an optimally comfortable 33 mm-diameter case inspired by the ‘golden ratio’ principles of aesthetic harmony. Seven new references are joining the collection in a rich variety of models: four two-tone featuring a Lucent Steel A223 case embellished with ethical 18-carat rose gold, and three entirely crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold, available on a leather strap or metal bracelet. An eighth version in ethical 18-carat white gold is entirely set with diamonds. All of them beat to the rhythm of the Chopard Manufacture 09.01-C movement with automatic winding and each dial is graced with the legendary dancing diamonds.

And to pay homage to the first Happy Sport Watch, Chopard, now presents Happy Sport the First, adding major innovations: a new case in Lucent Steel A223 redesigned in a 33 mm diameter inspired by the principles of the golden ratio, as well as the Manufacture Chopard 09.01-C movement with automatic winding.

For the launch of the new Happy Diamonds film starring Julia Roberts and directed by Xavier Dolan, we talked in an exclusive interview with Caroline Scheufele, Chopard Co-President and Artistic Director she gives an intimate perspective on the things that inspire her and her commitment to Chopard’s creative edge.

As a little girl, you made your first watch from aluminium foil as a present for your parents. How did they introduce you to the creative process?

The first thing my father taught me to do, before I learned the alphabet, was to read the time on a Mickey Mouse watch he brought me from America. This was my first contact with watches, so I looked for anything I could find – paper, aluminium and anything else – to make my own timepiece. The only mistake I made was that I got confused with my piano lessons and wrote Chopin on the dial instead of Chopard!

Chopard is one of the rare family Maisons in the watchmaking world and you are regularly seen with your family at major events. How does your family contribute to making you the woman you are?

One of the things I love most about Asia is that families are very close, with traditions such as having Sunday lunches together or the kids tending to spend time at home. Our family is very similar. In addition to living near each other we work very closely together and I have shared an office with my brother since forever. Chopard is a family-owned and independent Maison. This is one of our main strengths and a great blessing in many ways. We don’t always agree on things, but we like to make decisions together and work as a team with regard to business development, global strategy, production, distribution, new designs, and new products. We hope we will always be able to continue working this way.

How do you think one becomes a creator? Both you and your brother took drawing lessons during your childhood from a teacher who had a great influence on your training. How important was this to your creative process?

We are a very creative family. My brother draws and paints very well. I think our lessons were really the door that opened the way to what we are doing at Chopard today both in terms of what he does in the masculine environment and what I do with regard to jewellery and the ladies’ side of things. My brother is also very passionate about the mechanics of watches and complicated movements however and particularly excels when it comes to his other Maison, La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. It is there that he can truly express himself.

Even today, you never leave home without a sketchbook. As an artistic director, do you think that the need to express your ideas through design is inherent to the nature of creators or do you think that it is a talent that you have to work on?

I think it is a bit of both. On the one hand, being creative never stops and on the other, creators are always searching for something new. One cannot simply push a button and be creative. It is an ongoing process – often in the back of one’s mind. Due to that, I always have my sketchbook at hand, including next to my bed at night, because I might dream of something and not remember the next morning. I may just write down a word so that I remember what happened during the night in the morning. One might have an idea at any moment of the day, even during a dinner – I sometimes even sketch on napkins! To create is a wonderful thing but it’s also a responsibility as one always has to come up with something new.

In 1985, you created your first jewel for Chopard: the Happy Clown. Initially intended to be a one-of-a-kind creation, it soon became a success that marked the beginning of jewellery-making at Chopard. Did you have any idea of this little clown’s potential when you made this sketch?

Never! I was still at school when I designed that little clown. As a child, I loved to go to the circus. And apart from the acrobats and all the animation, my favourite act was the clowns, because although they’re sad, they make people laugh. As a result, I designed the little clown with diamonds in his tummy. And as a surprise, when my father saw the design, he produced it for me for Christmas. I thought it was a unique piece, but a bit later I went to the workshop and saw lots of them. That was the beginning of jewellery at Chopard.

The idea of dancing diamonds came from the vision of a waterfall and droplets gleaming under the sun’s rays. Can you tell us more about them?

Actually, the Happy Diamonds concept has existed for much longer than I have been involved in the Maison, but I’ve always been fascinated by seeing these little diamonds spin around and actually talk about dancing from their place within the pieces of jewellery or the watches.

My mum invented the name Happy Diamonds. When she saw the first prototype in our workshops, she said: “Diamonds are happier when they are free”. Just as a person who is free is happy. Everybody agreed that her comment was very accurate, and it became the name of the entire collection.

In the 1990s, you decided to create a new watch with dancing diamonds: the Happy Sport. When you presented the project, is it true that a workshop manager originally didn’t believe in it very much?

Actually, not just the workshop manager, but the whole watch development team, along with my parents… They thought it was a crazy idea to put diamonds in a steel case when diamonds are normally hosted in white gold or in platinum. But there was nothing to prevent it. Steel isn’t a precious metal but it’s cool, young, and fun and you can wear it around the clock. It was a big battle, however. And when it came to producing it, it was another challenge because everybody thought I had definitely gone mad. But I’m a very persistent person who doesn’t take no for an answer. The more I hear no, the more determined I am. Anyway, it did happen, and the results are clearly visible. I remember the workshop manager saying that for every watch sold, he would give me a rose. I ought to have a rose plantation by now!

Did he keep his promise?

As we had this little bet, at the end of the day, he kept his promise. One Sunday morning, I received a beautiful rose tree for my garden!

What were the Happy Sport’s technical challenges?

Originally, in the classical Happy Diamonds watches, the dancing diamonds were just allowed to spin around the dial. In the Happy Sport, they’re totally free, because they’re floating over the watch. This was a technical challenge because we had to find the aesthetic balance between the case, the dial, the first sapphire crystal, the position of the dancing diamonds and the next sapphire crystal, which made it quite complicated. Then, of course, the watch had to be waterproof. That was another technical challenge.

For me, when you say Happy, it says it all. The diamonds inside are actually truly free. They’re not stuck in a setting where they can’t move. And when you see them dancing, you realize it was worth the challenges!

Like Yves Saint Laurent, whose invention of luxury ready-to-wear enabled women to dress in designer clothes on a daily basis, your introduction of the Happy Sport took the mystique out of jewellery watches, meaning women could wear them 24/7. You invented the watch of the free-spirited 1990s woman. What does being a free-spirited woman mean today?

When I invented the Happy Sport, it was most of all because I was doing a lot of sport myself. That’s why the word “sport” is in there. At Chopard, we had a few summer watches, which were cool sporty pieces. But I really wanted something with a bit of sparkle that you could wear around the clock, suitable for going swimming, water-skiing, playing tennis, shopping, taking the kids to school, going to the office or going to a cocktail party. So if there was no time to change, you would already be somewhat dressed up with little diamonds dancing on your wrist. For me, that was what being a free spirit was all about, because today’s women are all active, whether it’s taking care of several kids or doing charitable work or travelling or working… And this watch is just perfect for all of it.

Women no longer simply look at the time, they take the time to contemplate the choreography of the diamonds. Were you aware that you would revolutionized our relationship with time this much?

I wasn’t really thinking of shaking up the watchmaking industry, I was just doing my job, which is also my passion, namely creating and designing. Maybe I did come up with something very unusual and unexpected, which is often the case with the best creations. But I had no idea that we would come that far with this watch.

How do you explain that the Happy Sport is still as contemporary today as it was when it was created in 1993? When young women come to your boutiques asking for the same Happy Sport that their mothers and grandmothers wore, what do you feel?

It’s a watch that somehow really crosses generations. I think this is how icons are born, when something is passed on from grandmother to mother to daughter. I had no idea when I first designed it that this would be the case.

How do you wear your own Happy Sport or think it should be styled?

I would mix and mismatch it. You could wear it alone, or with beautiful Happy Hearts bangles, or with some beautiful diamond bracelets that would also go well with it to dress it up. I also wear the iconic clown pendant with it, so it definitely lends itself to being dressed up or down. That is the beauty of the Happy Sport. You can easily pair the steel version with a diamond ring. There is no “no go”.

Since 2015, Happy Hearts has also become a jewellery icon. How did this idea come up?

It was during a very boring meeting! When I get bored, I start designing, so I doodled around. We already had these long chains with simple empty hearts, which I also design. And I thought about giving them some colour and started colouring the hearts. One often doesn’t see things that are glaringly obvious as was the case in this instance. Subsequently, the trend was for young girls and women to wear lots of chains and good luck charms and bangles. As a result, we came up with the bangle, which is beautiful as well as being lovely to wear because it’s very soft and easy to put on and take off.

You chose Julia Roberts to embody the Happy collections. Was she an obvious choice? Why this particular actress?

When we first talked about launching a Happy Diamonds film, the team said it would be nice to have an ambassador with an incredible smile. So I immediately suggested Julia Roberts! I said that to my mind she has the most radiant smile on the planet! Who doesn’t like Pretty Woman? Who wouldn’t want to be Pretty Woman? She is one of my all-time favourite actresses. She has made great movies including Erin Brockovich. She’s the kind of actress that shines from the inside out. She’s a happy person. She has this sunny energy fostering hope that everything will be reborn even more beautiful than before, as well as amazing magnetism and inextinguishable Joie de Vivre. Julia Roberts was the only person I felt could convey the free-spirited charisma of Happy Diamonds and that is exactly how I wanted the Happy Sport watch portrayed.

How did you come up with the idea of entrusting the film to Xavier Dolan? How did you meet him?

He is one of the darlings of the Cannes Film Festival, where I met him. As one of my favourite directors, I immediately thought I should ask him to collaborate on our project so he could capture the emotions I wanted to convey thanks to his sharp attention to detail, which is what makes the intensity of his movies. He was instantly enchanted with the idea of working with Chopard and Julia Roberts and has turned out to be a very good choice.

This brings us to your historical partnership with the Cannes Film Festival that reflects your love for cinema. When did this passion strike you? Tell us the story of your collaboration.

I have loved going to the cinema ever since I as a little girl, and I still do. The beauty of movies, whether they’re romantic, scary or educational is that they take you into another world completely for two hours. I think that’s what initially led me to Cannes. I had always followed the festival from afar, however, and one day I suggested opening a boutique during the festival because of all the celebrities in town. I went to Paris to investigate the possibilities and met Pierre Viot, then president of the Festival. He was charming and he invited me to redesign the Palme d’or, for the 50^th anniversary. I left Paris that afternoon with the old version Palme under my arm and stormed into my brother’s office in Geneva and told him I was going to redesign the Palme d’or. He looked at me as if I were completely mad but that was how it all began. Twenty-four years after the new Palme d’Or was unveiled in its current form, the love story continues. Since 2014, as part of our Journey to Sustainable Luxury, the trophy is made of Fairmined gold. We also created the Chopard Trophy in 2001, in order to reward young acting talents. Chopard belongs to Cannes and a bit of Cannes belongs to Chopard.

As one of these free-spirited women, you were at the origin of the Journey To Sustainable Luxury initiated in 2013 by Chopard. Today, sustainability is at the heart of the concerns of all the major maisons. Tell us how you came up with this visionary idea?

In 2012 at the Oscars, Livia Firth asked where our gold comes from. My immediate reply was “from the bank” but that wasn’t really the expected answer. There are millions of men and women digging up gold, often working in unsafe conditions and unfairly compensated for their work, or not at all. From that moment onwards, I was determined to embark on a mission to change not only Chopard as a company but also the entire industry. Sustainability is a Journey which never ends. And today, more than ever, our priority has to be to protect the people on the ground who make our business possible. Once we became aware of the situation, there was no going back. All of us at Chopard are convinced of the importance of putting ethical issues at the heart of our concerns. The sourcing of responsibly mined gold for our watch and jewellery production was one of the biggest milestones on our Journey to Sustainable Luxury.

People who know you say that your optimism and positivity are contagious. What are your tips for happiness?

First of all, I think you have to be happy in yourself. Otherwise, you can’t make others happy. It doesn’t cost much to smile. I always see the glass half full, not half empty, and I think waking up in a good mood, going to work in a good mood, and sharing your good mood with your team is essential.

What is your favourite motto?

Be happy!

And dance with your Happy Diamonds, of course.

Happy Talk

with Julia Roberts

Something that makes you happy instantly?

The sunrise. Instantly is very specific…

A movie that makes you happy?

The Philadelphia Story is a movie that makes me happy, to think about or to watch.

Your happiness tips?

-1- be kind to others;

-2 -surround yourself with loving, kind, compassionate people;

-3- kissing, followed by dancing as a close second.

Your favourite qualities in a woman?

Depth, soulfulness and just a real personal strength.

Your greatest extravagance?

Travel.

What makes you laugh?

Cleverness; not so much things that are funny, but things that are clever: a thoughtful thread to humour.

What do dancing diamonds evoke to you?

Perhaps the idea that something is going to happen!

How does your Happy Sport watch make you feel?

There is something about having a watch and every time you look at it seeing all these sparkling diamonds whirling around; it’s pretty awesome and truly good stuff.

What does being a free-spirited woman mean today?

Being comfortable in your convictions and sharing your convictions with those around you. Not all women have those liberties and I am very grateful that I have them.

How important to you is responsible luxury?

I would say that the idea of responsible luxury is something that not enough brands pay attention to. The thing with a Maison like Chopard is that it has really pioneered the idea of having a conscience, leading the charge and setting an example for other brands to follow.

What is so special about Chopard?

Chopard just represents this timeless idea of elegance and sparkle and being ladylike. You kind of think: “When I grow up I want to be having a great time and wearing watches and earrings by Chopard”… and now look at me, I’m all grown up!

Your favourite motto?

The motto that I repeat the most is “no way out but through”.

What’s your present state of mind?

I am really happy right now; it’s been such a beautiful day and I have felt such a really great sense of kinship that I had not expected today, so I’m superhappy.

25 July, 2021/by Maria G

RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes Edición Limitada

Vacheron Constantin | “Les Collectionneurs” London, 8th June – 8th August, 2021

Eleven vintage watches spanning the 20th century;
London, from 8th June to 8th August 2021
Models sourced by Vacheron Constantin’s experts, then restored and delivered with a digital certification of authenticity with Blockchain technology and a two-year guarantee.

Les Collectionneurs

Chosen with patience and talent by the Maison’s heritage department specialists, vintage watches covering the 20th century are now part of the aptly named “Les Collectionneurs” collection. The latter continues to evolve over time and is regularly offered for sale to brand aficionados at dedicated events organised in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world. “Les Collectionneurs” models all come with a digital certification of authenticity with Blockchain technology and a two-year guarantee – an offer unmatched in the watchmaking world.

When vintage is second nature
The notion of vintage is second nature to Vacheron Constantin. It is expressed through a strong attachment to everything relating to its heritage. In more than 265 years of existence, the Maison has accumulated a unique set of archives in the field of time measurement. Engaged in uninterrupted production since its origins, the Manufacture is also able to take care of – and restore if necessary – any timepiece from its workshops, whatever its age.

A closer look at its archives and its private collection of more than 1,500 timepieces offers an excellent insight into this historical depth and the means used to nurture it. From the watchmakers and craftspeople of its restoration workshop to the historians of the Style & Heritage team, the experts at Vacheron Constantin possess all the necessary skills to best honour this vintage watchmaking service that now enjoys such an excellent reputation.

“Les Collectionneurs”
Vacheron Constantin wanted to unite connoisseurs and aficionados of the Maison around their passion for vintage timepieces, leading to the creation of “Les Collectionneurs”: an approach consisting in using the Manufacture’s considerable resources to gather and restore a series of historical Vacheron Constantin pieces, subsequently offered for sale at dedicated events in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world.

“Les Collectionneurs” represents another facet of Vacheron Constantin,” comments Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director. “The collection perpetuates this precious link between past and present, enabling our clientele of connoisseurs and collectors to acquire restored vintage pieces directly through the Maison, which is a real guarantee. As for the events organised around the world to unveil these pieces, they attract both seasoned collectors and young generations eager to delve more deeply into watchmaking history.”

Watches ready for a new life
The Vacheron Constantin Heritage team works to bring together these vintage watches, whether pocket or wristwatches. The objective is to create a representative range of timepieces offered by Vacheron Constantin over the years. All kinds of channels are used in order to locate them: auction rooms, personal contacts with private individuals – bearing in mind that an expert eye is decisive in the choice of these timepieces, be they simple or striking models, calendars or chronographs…

Pocket watches mainly covering the years 1910 to 1930 and wristwatches prior to 1970 – with a preference for the period from 1940 to 1960 – are then subjected to a dual appraisal. First of all, a historical evaluation is undertaken in order to authenticate the piece with reference to the in-house archives, which have been listing cases and movements by serial number for a century and a half. Then comes the technical assessment aimed at determining which interventions may be necessary, from simply cleaning the timepiece, to its restoration – the objective being to preserve these timepieces in a state as close as possible to that of their origins. If necessary, they are restored to working order using period components, of which Vacheron Constantin maintains a large stock, or else reproduced the old-fashioned way and in identical form within the Manufacture. Once the process is complete, each timepiece is accompanied by a digital certificate of authenticity and a two-year guarantee, the latter being the same as that delivered with all models within the Maison’s standard collections.

Models unveiled at dedicated events
Throughout the year, Vacheron Constantin organises special events or exhibitions of historical models from its private collection in its boutiques. These are all special experiences that give connoisseurs an opportunity to discover this “Les Collectionneurs” collection; and Vacheron Constantin’s experts a chance to share the history related to the “experience” of these models. Thanks to its extremely well documented archives, the Maison can retrace the destiny of these timepieces that have survived through the ages as testimony to their time and to its watchmaking expertise. Rare and doubtless unique for those who cherish them, these Vacheron Constantin timepieces bearing the patina of age as a badge of honour are thus ready for a new life.

Watches highlight
18K yellow gold minute-repeater gentleman’s wristwatch (Inv. ref 11761) – 1951
Tear-drop lugs soldered to the middle. Silvered dial, circular guilloché hour-circle, 4/4 Roman numerals and 8 lapidated and pointed indexes, external pearled minute-circle. Yellow gold pointed baton hands.An exception grand complication, the reference 4261 combines an impressive thinness and superb aesthetics.The minute repeater mechanism was the third type of complication to be miniaturised enough to fit into the space of a wristwatch after the calendar and the chronograph mechanisms. It has been developed around 1930.The model 4261 was the first ultra-thin minute repeater produced by Vacheron Constantin. When it was launched in 1943 it was considered as one of the thinnest minute repeaters ever made. Less than 40 pieces were produced between 1944-1951, in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum. This watch is one of the last pieces produced.The reference 4261 is most probably the most sought-after Vacheron Constantin timepieces, from the collector’s perspective.

Les Collectionneurs

18K yellow gold open-face worldtime pocket watch (Inv. Ref 10394) – 1949
Silvered dial made in 3 parts. 24 hours disk divided in two zones, dark blue zone for the night hours and silvered for the daylight hours. external fixed disk graduated with the name of 41 cities and placesIn 1932 the Vacheron Constantin first World Time pocket watch displays the Cottier system capable of displaying the 24 time zones on the same dial, rotating with the movement. The Maison assigns model ref 3372 to this brand new watch. Watches indicating 24 time-zones were progressively named “Universal time, “international time” (ref. Vacheron Constantin archives) and then “World time” for most contemporary watches. In 1936 seeking to show that the complication was worth perfecting. Vacheron Constantin presented two new version of its international time model whose featured 31 international cities for reference 3650. In 1946 Vacheron Constantin assigned reference 4414 to the world time model with a dial comprising 41 cities. This reference was ordered by famous watches collectors as well as the Agnelli family in 1941. King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 or 52nd United States secretary of States John Foster Dulles who received a world time 4414 model from dramatist and diplomat Mrs Clare Booth Luce in 1955.Vacheron Constantin Worldtime watches are not indexed on political/state time zones but under the Meridian for each of 24 time zones (a kind of geographic hour). Following this concept, each time zone is spaced by 15° longitude.

8 June, 2021/by Maria G

DESTACADOS, RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes Edición Limitada

IWC UNVEILS BIG PILOT’S WATCH CAMPAIGN STARRING BRAND AMBASSADOR LEWIS HAMILTON

Schaffhausen, 3rd June 2021 – Following the launch of its new Pilot’s Watch collection in April, IWC Schaffhausen kicks off a global advertising campaign focusing on the Big Pilot’s Watch. The campaign features seven-time FIA Formula One™ World Drivers’ Champion Lewis Hamilton, who has been an IWC brand ambassador since 2013, and tracks Hamilton’s evolution from a ‘driver of the fastest cars’ to a ‘driver of change’, as he increasingly seeks to use his talent and influence to raise awareness of social injustices and broaden opportunities to people from diverse backgrounds. The stunning imagery was shot by British photographer Misan Harriman, who also joins the global IWC family as a new brand ambassador.

IWC’s new campaign pairs Lewis Hamilton with the Big Pilot’s Watch, underscoring the unique status of both. First introduced to the luxury market in 2002, the Big Pilot’s Watch has evolved into a modern design icon and an expression of a distinct mindset. Today, it is the timepiece of choice for cultural creators, bold entrepreneurs and people who go their own way to pursue their vision. Having journeyed from being an athlete who focused on chasing records in his sport to becoming a ‘driver of change’, Hamilton perfectly matches this profile.

He is using his platform more and more to speak up about social issues, including issues relating to diversity and inclusion in his sport. In the campaign, Hamilton wears several timepieces from the new collection: The Big Pilot’s Watch 43, the Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Edition ‘Mojave Desert’, the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41.

“We could not have found a better person than Lewis Hamilton to express the unique character that the Big Pilot’s Watch embodies. He is not only a remarkable athlete but a multifaceted personality driven by passion and purpose, using his voice to speak out. Lewis deserves our deepest respect for his achievements, not only on the track but also as a driver of change. As we strive to become a more inclusive organisation in line with our ongoing commitment to sustainability and responsibility, we are proud to partner with Lewis who embodies these values on this new campaign,”

Franziska Gsell, CMO IWC Schaffhausen and Sustainability Committee Chair

MISAN HARRIMAN ANNOUNCED AS IWC BRAND AMBASSADOR

The campaign imagery was shot by renowned photographer Misan Harriman. Born in Nigeria, Harriman was raised in the UK and recently made history by becoming the first black person in the 104-years of British Vogue to shoot the cover of the magazine’s September issue. Entirely self-taught, he has documented many recent defining moments in history and is known for his unique narrative and reportage style. IWC is pleased to announce that Harriman will join its circle of brand ambassadors. The British photographer also appears in IWC’s digital Big Pilot’s Watch campaign. In a short video available on the brand’s digital channels, he talks about milestones in his career and his love for the Big Pilot’s Watch. IWC has also released a conversation between Harriman and Hamilton, in which they discuss the Formula OneTM driver’s incredible career, his passion for fashion and music, and his role as a social activist.

Link to watch Misan Harriman’s IWC digital Big Pilot’s campaign: https://watches.iwc.com/misanigtv

Link to watch the conversation between Misan Harriman and Lewis Hamilton: https://watches.iwc.com/misanxlewis

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

In 1868, the American watchmaker and entrepreneur Florentine Ariosto Jones travelled from Boston to Switzerland and founded the ‘International Watch Company’ in Schaffhausen. His visionary dream was to combine advanced American manufacturing methods with the craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers to make the best pocket watches of his time. In doing so, he not only laid the foundation for IWC’s unique engineering approach but also established the centralised production of mechanical watches in Switzerland.

Over its 150 year history, IWC Schaffhausen has developed a reputation for creating functional complications, especially chronographs and calendars, which are ingenious, robust, and easy for customers to use. A pioneer in the use of titanium and ceramics, IWC today specialises in highly engineered technical watch cases manufactured from advanced materials, such as titanium aluminide and Ceratanium®. Preferring the principle of “form follows function” over decoration, the Swiss watch manufacturer’s timeless creations embody their owners’ dreams and ambitions as they journey through life.

IWC sources materials responsibly and takes action to minimise its impact on the environment, creating intrinsically sustainable timepieces that are built to last for generations. The company prides itself in training its own future watchmakers and engineers, as well as offering an excellent working environment for all employees. IWC also partners with organisations that work globally to support children and young people.

3 June, 2021/by Carlos

RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer

Vacheron Constantin | American 1921 Pièce unique: The iconic American 1921 watch faithfully recreated as if in 1921

To celebrate the 100^th anniversary of the American 1921, Vacheron Constantin has faithfully created this emblematic model from the Roaring Twenties while safeguarding its original attributes.
This exceptional one-of-a-kind creation symbolises the Manufacture’s commitment to the transmission and enhancement of traditional skills.

Geneva, May 25^th 2021 – To mark the 100^th anniversary of the American 1921 watch, Vacheron Constantin has delved into its archives and its horological expertise to offer a faithful reproduction of the timepiece emblematic of an era. Stemming from an impressive technical and human epic saga pushing the limits of fine craftsmanship excellence, the creation of the American 1921 Pièce unique watch mobilised the remarkable expertises of the Maison’s Restoration workshop and the Heritage department for an entire year. This approach might be a first in the watch industry, reflecting Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to the conservation, transmission and continuous enrichment of its heritage and of traditional skills.

Only 24 pieces of the reference dated 1921 were originally manufactured. Today only one of them is part of Vacheron Constantin’s private collection, making it an extremely rare and sought-after timepiece for collectors and watch connoisseurs. Some watches tell stories, inviting us to travel back in time, to retrace origins and immerse oneself in bygone eras. Faithfully recreated as if in 1921, the American 1921 Pièce unique watch presented this year is a case in point, offering a journey into the creativity of the Roaring Twenties and reviving the beauty of artisanal skills as practiced a century ago. More than a jubilee watch, it is the fruit of a fascinating odyssey into the heart of the artisanal know-how cultivated by Vacheron Constantin for over 265 years.

American 1921 Pièce unique: The iconic American 1921 watch faithfully recreated as if in 1921

Heritage and Restoration departments’ commitment to perpetuate the art of high watchmaking

When the idea of faithfully recreating an American 1921 model from the Vacheron Constantin private collection first took shape, the project looked set to be both exciting and ambitious.

A bridge between the past and future of the Maison, the Vacheron Constantin Heritage department has a place of its own within the Manufacture. Spanning an exceptional timeline that began in 1755, and overseeing a unique collection, it is anything but a dusty museum. The research and expertise of the teams working there on a daily basis are an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the creation of new collections and a masterful reference for the Restoration workshop. The department preserves 800 machine tools, workbenches and sets of watchmaking tools, along with substantial documentary and iconographic archives. No less than 420 linear metres are taken up by an infinite wealth of production and accounting registers comprising foreign sales, correspondence between associates, suppliers and clients, various documents and photographs. All contribute to shedding both historical and artistic light on Vacheron Constantin’s activity through the years and centuries. They represent a sum of written instruments serving to ensure the traceability of a creation since its origins, given that all the models produced are systematically referenced in the production registers. This unprecedent heritage helped retrace the history of the creation of the American 1921 and provided a solid basis for the Restoration workshop teams. The latter thus took up the authentic challenge of reviving some forgotten skills and combining today’s techniques with yesterday’s know-how.

Few Manufactures are able to restore all the watches that have come out of their workshops for centuries. That is why Vacheron Constantin makes it a point of honor to pass on this watchmaking know-how and to ensure that the great history of each of its timepieces continues. The skill and style of the Restoration artisans thus consists in showing respect for ethical considerations in their work. To achieve this, they can draw upon a substantial stock of components, adjust component blanks or entirely remake them – the latter being the most delicate task of all and calling for particularly complex size calculations. Experts in the art of maintaining Vacheron Constantin’s oldest timepieces without altering their nature, the Restoration workshop’s seasoned watchmakers are thus accustomed to combining a historian’s perspective with scientific analysis, but until now they had never undertaken to reproduce an antique watch in its entirety. This unprecedented work of reconstitution, respectful of ethics because it is faithful and precise down to the smallest detail, called upon the multiple competencies of these artisans, who pursued an empirical approach throughout this year-long project.

American 1921 Pièce unique: The iconic American 1921 watch faithfully recreated as if in 1921

Several months of research in the Manufacture’s archives, weeks of reflection and observation, numerous experiments, as well as unsuccessful attempts and successful trials were necessary to produce such a work. The American 1921 Pièce unique will be in the spotlight throughout 2021 through prolonged exposure in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world.

Antique machines and tools

In order to reproduce the hand-crafted operations performed back in the day, artisans had to work with some historical tools from Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage. A late 19^th century facing lathe enabled them to faithfully recreate the elements composing the case; a rounding-up (topping) tool from the latter half of the 19^th century served to modify the profile of wheel teeth and to adjust their diameter. Watchmakers used an 18^th century upright drilling accessory to drill through the movement’s mainplate. To drive the jewels into their settings, they resorted to an early 20^th century staking tool.

These vintage machines were complemented by tools specially made for this project, such as custom-made milling-cutters and riveting tools in line with those of the early 20^th century, enabling the artisans to work in a manner attuned to that period and closely reproducing the operations and development techniques of the time. The result of this remarkable stylistic exercise is an exceptional collector’s item symbolising Vacheron Constantin’s unwavering commitment to the transmission, enhancement and continuous enrichment of its production skills.

Rebirth of a vintage movement

While the watchmakers in Vacheron Constantin’s Restoration workshop fully master the art of bringing back to life the most exceptional timepieces produced by the Manufacture in the course of its long history, never before had they been called upon to rebuild a vintage calibre from scratch.

They began by disassembling and examining every single component of the original 11-ligne Calibre Nouveau powering the original model. Apart from the bridges and mainplate which had to be recreated, the Restoration workshop’s stocks proved to be a goldmine for the artisans who thereby had access to all the necessary blank parts. This involved extremely laborious research, since a vintage case could contain an infinite number of components, all different in terms of size and shape. In order to identify them one by one, the first stage consisted in taking the measurements and dimensions of each of the 115 components of the original movement. This meticulous work of observation and comparison subsequently led watchmakers to make plans and mock-ups of the calibre, a particularly delicate task requiring extremely complex sizing calculations.

At this stage, the archive documents safeguarded by the Heritage department proved extremely valuable, notably in recreating the bridges and the mainplate according to the specificities of this vintage movement. How could each component be adjusted and calibrated prior to assembly? How should the vintage machines be regulated? How could the jewels be set on the movement, whereas they are now generally driven in? How could the exact colour of the gilding on the wheels be achieved? At what distance and at which height should they be placed in order to be faithful to the original calibre? These were all issues that the watchmakers had to resolve by assembling the components one by one, as any potential error could jeopardise the entire project.

Setting the jewels on the movement was also a real tour de force. Since the 1940s, it has been customary to drive in the jewels, and while the watchmakers in Vacheron Constantin’s Restoration workshop are accustomed to replacing damaged jewels on very old timepieces, until now they had never had the opportunity to make the settings themselves. Successfully hollowing out the metal to the exact depth required to fit the stones to the nearest hundredth required multiple trials. Not to mention the patient research work required to develop the system for reproducing the unique ribbed pattern which, alongside various manual engravings, adorns the movement in the same way as was done at the time.

A dial and case distinguished by sophisticated craftsmanship

Accurately reproducing the exterior of the American 1921 also represented a real feat of manual workmanship. Here again, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers had to provide answers to numerous technical questions by observing the 1921 timepiece in minute detail, while comparing it with archive documents, and then individually crafting each element of the case and dial.

Some period components were available in the stocks of the Restoration workshop, such as rough blanks of the crown and hands. Others had to be entirely recreated, starting with the 31.5 mm case, according to the dimensions of the original American 1921. It was crafted by a Restoration workshop goldsmith from the specific gold alloy used for the historical model (18K 3N yellow gold), identified with the help of a spectrometer in order to reproduce its exact colour. Only a laser engraving applied to the case back, for customs purposes, distinguishes the American 1921 Pièce unique watch from its ancestor.

The creation of the dial also called for highly specialised expertise on the part of the artisan responsible for restoring the grain and unique beauty of the original dial. Crafted in Grand Feu enamel, an ancestral technique considered to be one of the most delicate in the field of watchmaking ornamentation, it required numerous firings in the kiln at a temperature of over 800°C. It features vintage numerals and logo, along with slender open-tipped hands that have been hand-blued by the Restoration workshop using the production techniques of the time.

And since no detail is left to chance, the exercise in style has continued right the way through to the end of the strap, whose pin buckle in 18K 3N yellow gold (the same alloy as the original model) was also produced in the Vacheron Constantin workshop.

A tribute to the art of wearing a watch in 1921

Because it retains all the original properties of the original American 1921, this unique, identically recreated timepiece reflects a historian’s approach.

It subtly mirrors the social and cultural context of the 1920s, the effervescence and the wind of freedom blowing across the United States and Europe at the dawn of the Roaring Twenties. Its distinctive design illustrates the stylistic creativity of Vacheron Constantin which revelled in expressing its “classic with a twist” style through multiple case shapes.

It also tells the story of the early days when the wristwatch began to become more widespread. At that time, men’s wristwatches were only just beginning to take precedence over pocket watches, until then regarded as more robust and accurate. Despite the considerable progress made by watch manufacturers in terms of movements’ resistance, reliability and miniaturisation, water-resistance requirements as we understand them today were not yet a reality. Choosing to wear time on the wrist thus meant exposing the watch to more risks in terms of shocks and external aggressions such as dust, humidity or water. In order to avoid any possible damage, watch owners took numerous precautions, notably including placing their wristwatch on the edge of the washbasin when they washed their hands. The watch was regarded as a life companion that was taken care of and had to be wound every day by hand.

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Sum-up

Enriched by a heritage based on the transmission of watchmaking expertise and stylistic research through generations of master artisans, Vacheron Constantin continues to celebrate the 100^th anniversary of the American 1921 by recreating this emblematic model from scratch. From the 11-ligne Calibre Nouveau to the gold case along with the decorations and exterior components, the American 1921 Pièce unique watch reproduces the original properties of its ancestor created a century ago. This highly complex and unprecedented process involved the most experienced watchmakers in the Restoration workshop and the Vacheron Constantin Heritage team, who spent a year reviving old tools and forgotten know-how in the course of a passionately exciting human and technical adventure. The result is an exceptional one-of-a-kind timepiece, a symbol of the Maison’s attachment to its heritage and to the continuous enrichment of traditional know-how.

TECHNICAL DATA

American 1921 Pièce unique

Reference 1921H/000J-B949

Calibre
1921
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, manual-winding
24.8 mm (11‘’’) diameter, 4.31 mm thick
Approximately 30 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
115 components
16 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds

Case
18K 3N yellow gold, same alloy as the 1921 original timepiece
Hand-crafted in the Vacheron Constantin restoration workshop
31 mm in diameter, 8.75 mm thick

Dial
White, Grand Feu enamel
Blued steel open-tipped hands – blued in our workshops

Strap
Brown calf leather, hand-sewn, tone-to-tone stitching, Calf lining

Buckle
18K 3N yellow gold pin buckle, same alloy as the 1921 original timepiece

Hand-crafted in the Vacheron Constantin restoration workshop

1 June, 2021/by Nico Nico

RELOJES, Relojes Automáticos, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes Edición Limitada

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Squelette

Throughout life, we often feel an unwavering desire to uncover hidden treasures. Cuervo y Sobrinos is proud to unveil a new iteration of the Historiador Squelette that reveals the intricate mechanisms at work beneath the dial.