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Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

Patek Philippe presents 17 new watch models with innovative technical and aesthetic features, enriching its vast range of collections

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2023, the Geneva-based manufacture is unveiling a wide selection of new models, ranging from a Calatrava with an original 24-hour display and a Travel Time function for the display of a second time zone, to a new haute joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime, and the first Annual Calendar to enter the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection, renowned for its modern casual chic. A new vintage celebrating technical mastery and creativity.

“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves.” That was the message from Thierry Stern, president of the family-owned manufacture, in a recent communications campaign centering on the company’s brand philosophy. From the Grand Complications to the elegant sports models and others that have become icons of horological design, Patek Philippe maintains a vast choice of watches for men and women in every market segment. As time passes, the manufacture takes great care to ensure a balanced evolution of the approximately 150 references, which are crafted in small series, ranging from about ten pieces to a few hundred. The 17 new introductions presented at the Watches and Wonders 2023 salon are the perfect illustration.

Five refined new looks for the striking watches –Grand Complications emblematic of Patek Philippe

Since the manufacture’s foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe has made its mark as one of the greatest specialists in striking watches. Its supreme mastery was confirmed in 2014 by the launch, as a limited edition, of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch, with 20 complications. This timepiece, which joined the current collection in 2016, is particularly notable for its five chiming modes, including an alarm striking the pre-selected time, and a date repeater striking the date on demand.

The manufacture is reinterpreting the design of the double-face reversible case, endowed with a patented rotation mechanism, by presenting it for the first time in a bicolor version combining white gold and rose gold. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 also stands out by its two brown opaline dials, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the side displaying the time of day, and its two-tone chestnut brown patinated alligator strap and bicolor folding buckle.

In 2022, Patek Philippe highlighted the mechanical perfection of the Grandmaster Chime with two gem- set versions, one with baguette-cut diamonds (Reference 6300/400G-001) the other with baguette-cut diamonds and baguette-cut blue sapphires (Reference 6300/401G-001). Now, the manufacture is presenting a new alliance between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001 shimmering with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 ct) in a superb example of the “baguette” and “invisible” setting techniques. This timepiece is endowed with two dials in ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the time side and a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand stitching.

Another outstanding piece among the striking watches, Reference 5316, launched in 2017, unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator. In the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this timepiece a unique new modern allure –with a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and black-gradient rim, affording a veiled glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch.

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

The manufacture is also enriching its selection of minute-repeating wristwatches –the largest such range in a current collection –with two reinterpretations under the heading of Rare Handcrafts. Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model that always strikes the local time –is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Its dial center is adorned with a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene depicting one of the famous steamboats still plying the waters of Lake Geneva. Another new model, Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012, is endowed with a self-winding movement and “cathedral” gongs whose sound is particularly deep and rich. It features a new dial in blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a distinctive hand-guilloched swirling pattern.

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001

A new complicated model and refreshed designs in the Calatrava collection

With its sleek round case and air of understatement, the Calatrava collection (launched in 1932) has made its mark as the archetype of timeless elegance. Over the years, Patek Philippe has added to this vast family a variety of complications used in everyday life, such as the Travel Time dual time zone function and the weekly calendar. The manufacture is now expanding its range of travel watches with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 featuring the Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24- hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement is further distinguished by its patented system for correcting local time by the crown. It is housed in a rose-gold case harmonizing with a blue dial embellished by complex finishing touches, adorned with numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold, individually applied by hand.

Since 2015, the models in the Pilot style – inspired by the Patek Philippe watches created for aviators in the 1930s – have featured prominently in the manufacture’s collections, with several versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with the dual time-zone mechanism, as well as a Grand Complication equipped with a 24-hour alarm. Patek Philippe is now endowing this distinctive line, known for its original, highly recognizable aesthetic, with its first two chronograph models: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001, with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. These two watches house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement uniting three practical and user-friendly complications: a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function and the date indicated by a hand, coupled with local time.

Other new models in the Patek Philippe current collection include the Calatrava references 6007G- 001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 featuring a graphic modern style. The ebony black dials, enriched with three types of finish, center an embossed “carbon” pattern. The dynamism of the design is heightened by touches of color on the dials and straps: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011). The white-gold cases house the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with date and stop-seconds function.

4997/200R – CALATRAVA

Patek Philippe is also expanding its range of elegant watches for women with the new Calatrava self- winding Reference 4997/200R-001, a reinterpretation of a great classic that catches the eye with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap decked out in purple. The dial, embossed with a pattern of concentric waves, is coated with more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, creating a mesmerizing sense of depth. The case is adorned with a diamond-set bezel and houses the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

New functions and new faces for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe made its mark in the domain of sporty elegance by designing two models that have acquired cult status: the Nautilus (1976) and the Aquanaut (1997), the latter strengthening its offer in 2004 with the launch of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce line. Following the introduction of a Travel Time dual time-zone model in 2021 and a self-winding chronograph version in 2022, the Aquanaut Luce is now treating itself to a new practical and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar. Graced with a blue-gray dial and strap, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 in rose gold enhances the choice of complicated watches for women with a non-gemset model.

The new self-winding ladies’ Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 coordinates a rose-gold case with a dial and integrated strap in taupe –a warm hue between brown and gray in perfect harmony with this model’s “modern casual chic” style. Its characteristic rounded octagonal bezel is lit by the fire of 48 diamonds. The case is water resistant to 120 m and houses the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with stop seconds.

The self-winding Aquanaut chronograph for men, already available in steel and in white gold, also sports a rose-gold case for the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968R-001, endowed with a sunburst dial in a gradient of brown to black, and a matching composite strap.

From technical models to jewelry pieces

In the segment of complicated watches for men, Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010 endowed with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial lends a new face to this alliance between two sought-after Patek Philippe complications.

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

The Gondolo collection, comprising the Patek Philippe “form watches” of Art Deco inspiration, announces the return of a jewelry watch with unique style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient, highlighting the case’s refined curves. The brown-lacquered dial presents a floral decoration with contrasting finishes.

A rich collection of rare handcrafts

Once again, as in previous years, Patek Philippe is also unveiling a splendid collection of one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces (dome table clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches) showcasing the rarest and most refined of the artistic crafts, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, hand engraving and wood marquetry. The “Rare Handcrafts 2023” exhibition, bringing together these 67 creations, will be open to the public from April 1 to 15 2023 in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar 5271/11P

4 April, 2023/by Jackson Thompson

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Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Searching for inspiration in the most unexpected places is in Roger Dubuis’ DNA. This includes uniting with world-famous urban culture artists who share its values to break the rules, showcase radical expertise, and obsess daily over the design of the future.

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Continuing on a journey to create boundary-breaking masterpieces, Roger Dubuis is proud to introduce the third timepiece from its Urban Culture Tribe with the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier (MB).

Pioneer in his art, the world-famous Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama has been inspiring his peers for decades. By inventing his super-realist feminine “Sexy Robots”, he broke conventions and shook traditions. His talent has been rewarded by multiple awards and his genius led him to work with the biggest names across high fashion, technology, and music. Knowing he chooses to pursue opportunities that force him to push the boundaries of his art, Roger Dubuis invited him to the Manufacture to take on the creative challenge: to reinterpret the Maison’s astral signature.

Embracing this opportunity to infuse his realistic and expressive signature design, the innovative artist co-created a timepiece that merges one radical world with another. Hyper performing, hyper inspiring, and hyper hypnotic, the result is modern art for the wrist.

HYPNOTIC ART FOR THE WRIST

Never one to shy away from a challenge, Roger Dubuis made the decision to recraft and reshape its own work of art – the Excalibur Monobalancier – earlier this year. Clean cut lines on both case and movement create a heightened sense of depth, while the signature star now levitates freely above the barrel. An evolution that not only raises the timepiece to an even higher standard, but also makes it an exciting and versatile canvas for Sorayama to express himself.

Reinterpreting the Excalibur MB with hyper expressivity and sophistication, the artist chose to be provocative by breaking the Maison’s design codes. Curvy lines and a full shine finish blur the sharp design and contrasted finishes Roger Dubuis usually signs its masterpieces with. Sorayama borrowed further cues from his own iconic creations by echoing his 3D sculptures within the polished titanium finish. This striking aesthetics required the Maison’s hyper-skilled watchmakers to develop unusual processes to replicate the desired shiny effect. A first for the Maison and highly challenging task especially when it came to polish fully the titanium case and bracelet. Determined to bring even more play with light to the timepiece, Sorayama also reimagined Roger Dubuis’ micro-rotor to create a hypnotising moiré optical illusion triggered by the natural fluid movements of the wearer’s wrist. This captivating and endless rippling effect – another first for both the artist and Maison – required months of in-house prototyping seeking for the right combination of materials, decorations and finishes. The final execution associates an extremely precise and optimal distance between each line of the stamped décor, with a traditional three-hour long guilloché technique on specific parts of the micro-rotor and an innovative assembly process placing a stamped sapphire dial above the reimagined micro-rotor.

As described by Sorayama, the result is the optimal harmony of two artists coming together: “The Excalibur Sorayama MB is a perfect blend of two worlds, with Roger Dubuis’ and my signature both recognisable at first sight. I’m thrilled we were able to bring such a hyper expressive timepiece to life. By pushing our limits, we’ve created a distinctive moiré and a singular masterpiece.”

HYPER MECHANICS MADE FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE

As artistically inspiring as technically impressive, the Excalibur Sorayama MB houses an automatic calibre recently enhanced with a series of mechanical and aesthetic improvements.

Motivated by a desire for hyper performance, Roger Dubuis’ engineers increased the power reserve of the RD720SQ to 72 hours. They also optimised the micro-rotor to minimise vibrations and doubled the balance wheel inertia to improve stability and make it less sensitive to shocks. Better efficiency and energy transmission was further increased through the use of a new lube and by optimising the shape of the escapement wheel, pairing it with adjustable pallet-stones, and constructing both elements from diamond-coated silicon.

Such high standards of horological mastery and craftsmanship are rewarded with the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

The hyper sophisticated masterpiece is also the first Roger Dubuis titanium grade 5 bracelet to feature its Quick Release System for ease and versatility. Housed in a 42 mm case crafted from titanium grade 5 as well, this exclusive artwork is limited to just 28 pieces and at first available in Japan only.

Together with its friends, the Maison shows what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed. In bringing a visionary artist together with incredible watchmakers, Roger Dubuis proves once again it is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology™.

20 July, 2022/by Maria G

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Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Ready, set, go: Roger Dubuis roars across the starting line to reveal the Maison is now the official timing partner of the 2022 Goodwood Festival of Speed. The new collaboration is set to whip up pleasure-seeking visitors with a series of unforgettable thrills and emotions.

The hyper watchmaker already boasts two renowned partnerships within the motorsport’s universe, creating adrenaline-charged masterpieces with racing legend Lamborghini Squadra Corse and premium tyre expert Pirelli. Welcoming another partner to the fold with the Goodwood Festival of Speed is a natural next step. In honour of the new collaboration, Roger Dubuis is proud to unveil the Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier (MB). Born to race, the new timepiece boasts an expressive blend of hyper materials and hyper mechanics.

THRILLING MECHANICS, RAGING PERFORMANCE

The new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB reflects the DNA of Lamborghini Squadra Corse combined with the horological excellence of the Maison. Powered by an automatic RD630 calibre, the 45-mm diameter Excalibur Spider Huracán channels the same exhilarating performance as its motoring namesake. Strong visual cues are inspired from the Huracán GT3 EVO2, including the honeycomb motif made famous by the supercar, with its hexagonal dashboard paralleled in the shape of the calibre. Built like an engine, the calibre’s twin barrels and 12° tilted balance wheel also represent the movement signature associated with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. When viewed from the back, the skeletonised movement reveals the 360° oscillating rim weight. This reproduces the like-for-like speed effect of a Huracán wheel rim, as well as emulating its design. Finally, a crown inspired by the supercar’s racing nuts is paired with an upper calibre strut-bar bridge design reminiscent of those found on the V10 engine itself. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

HYPER-TECH MATERIALS MEET INSPIRING RACING CODES

Both Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse compulsively seek out hyper-tech materials to fulfil their obsession with shaping the future. Just as Lamborghini Squadra Corse chooses carbon fibre for its racing cars, Roger Dubuis crafts the new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB case, bezel, and crown from pure white Mineral Composite Fibre (MCF). Exclusively developed in-house, this hyper-tech material illustrates the Maison’s technical mastery. The 100% integrated Manufacture found that engineering silica via a Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) process could produce a material 13% lighter than SMC carbon. Not only does this lightness make it extremely comfortable to wear on the wrist, it also enables the creation of intricate designs thanks to a sturdy structure. Always seeking out the most expressive aesthetics, the pure white MCF is further elevated with embellishments in striking green, intense red and electrifying yellow to honour the design of the Huracán GT3 EVO. The same shades are also found on the white rubber strap, which features green calf leather perforated with tiny holes to reveal the red beneath. Intricate stitching in red adds to the audacious look, while a Quick Release System ensures ultimate versatility. As exclusive as the Festival of Speed Driver’s Club, the Excalibur Spider Huracán MB is reserved for a select tribe only and therefore limited to 88 pieces.

Join us to discover the Maison’s latest roaring creation and explore iconic timepieces at the Roger Dubuis booth at Goodwood Festival of Speed from June 23^rd to June 26^th. Adrenaline-seekers beware: This is going to be an epic weekend.

23 June, 2022/by alfredoroses

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HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO

HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO – A NEW WATCH-SHAPE TAKES FORM AT WATCHES & WONDERS

Hublot unveils its own interpretation of the square watch, a totally new geometry for the watchmaker. Inspired by the Maison’s iconic Big Bang, this Square Bang Unico adds a new pillar, ‘The Shaped Collection’ to sit alongside the Spirit of Big Bang.

Is there anything that has not been explored in watchmaking? This is the question that Hublot’s R&D department asks itself every day. When you have created the most resistant materials, set up the craziest of partnerships and developed extraordinary complications, the answer is often very simply… In the shape. Hublot currently masters three: a round watch, a barrel-shaped watch, and the MPs, those ‘Master Pieces’ have that have broken free from all conventions.

Today, a fourth shape has been created: the square. Its geometry bewitched Hublot because of the challenges it sets. First, the movement. Since every calibre has the wheel as its basic component, it therefore needs a round movement. If you are to place a round movement harmoniously in a square case, this requires a very specific style. This is why most watchmakers hide their movement, to give the illusion of using a shaped movement or because they have failed to find a consistent aesthetic style.

Hublot decided to take a radically different direction: the watchmaker hides nothing of its own, in-house Unico movement, the pride of the Nyon watchmakers and the beating heart of most of its designs for over 10 years. The chronograph has a column wheel visible at 6 o’ clock, while its bicompax display dispenses with a dial, to reveal its secret inner workings.

The second challenge was the modular construction of the case, designed in line with Hublot’s DNA, with a central housing dressed with an upper and lower plate to enable a myriad of combinations and transformations. But this time, it is square in shape, and therefore much more difficult to make water resistant – Hublot pulls off the challenge with a guaranteed water resistance to 100 metres. The size of the case is also an important factor to ensure this model is perfectly ergonomic, providing comfort on the wrist very similar to that of the 42 mm Big Bang. Its pedigree from the brand’s icon can be seen in countless details.

First of all, there is the sandwich construction of its dial, which gives it different levels of depth and a highly architectural feel. As with the Big Bang, the Square Bang Unico’s dial makes extensive use of sapphire to give a clear view of the Unico movement, and also reuses the same hands.

Next, we find the six (functional) screws on the bezel, placed at exactly the same places as on the Big Bang. On either side of the Square Bang, you find the ‘ears’ from the Big Bang’s case, giving balance to the design while protecting the case. For the strap, in addition to the much appreciated One Click system of the Big Bang and its textured rubber, the two screws are fixed in the middle as an attachment. Finally, the Square Bang uses the same materials as its predecessor, including titanium, ceramic and King Gold, not to mention the famous ‘All Black’ finish.

Lastly, a new strap decorated with ‘chocolate squares’ further emphasises the Square Bang’s identity. Thanks to its interchangeable (One Click) system you can change the look of your watch in one click with an impressive range of Rubber, Alligator and soon soft-touch leather straps.

Five 42 mm models are already available. The first three are in solid titanium, black ceramic or King Gold. The last two blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Each model comes with a black rubber strap and a folding clasp in the same material as the case. These original designs beat to the rhythm of the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a 354-component automatic chronograph, set at 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h).

As is customary at Hublot, the finishing is uncompromising and has a very modern feel: polished and sandblasted screws, over-moulded rubber crown, push-pieces decorated with rubber ‘chocolate squares’, polished satin bottom and rhodium-plated or 5N gold-plated hands, depending on the model. The crown comes in over-moulded rubber. The textured pattern of the strap was created especially for the Square Bang. It includes four rows (like the four sides of the case) of raised squares (like the bezel on the case).

15 April, 2022/by Carlos

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Overseas tourbillon skeleton: A breath of fresh air for an emblematic complication

First tourbillon skeleton watch in the Overseas collection
Two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium respectively
First Vacheron Constantin all-titanium model with integrated bracelet
Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, redesigned and skeletonised with a new balance-spring featuring a Breguet overcoil

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – The tourbillon, one of the most emblematic Haute Horlogerie complications, joins the Overseas collection in a skeletonised version. Manufacture Calibre 2160 has been redesigned for the occasion in a contemporary, entirely openworked spirit. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium – first Vacheron Constantin model made entirely of this metal- versions complete with integrated bracelets, this watch is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case.

Vacheron Constantin continues the travel spirit of the Overseas watches with this new tourbillon skeleton model, a first in this collection launched in 1996. Beautifully streamlined with its entirely openworked movement; sophisticated with its robust case; rigorously disciplined with its tourbillon-driven movement ensuring a comfortable over three-day power reserve, this timepiece is designed for the finest journeys – exactly as François Constantin, the tireless traveller who signed an enduring alliance with Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron in 1819, would doubtless have presented it.

The watch comes in two versions, one in 18K 5N pink gold and the other in Grade 5 titanium. The titanium model is the first by the Maison to be entirely made of this same metal – from crown to bezel and from bracelet to case. The self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2160 powering these timepieces has been entirely skeletonised in a contemporary spirit with a degree of attention to detail stemming from an authentic aesthetic quest celebrated through Vacheron Constantin’s “Anatomy of Beauty ®” 2022 theme.

A finely crafted movement, Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ

The skeletonisation work carried out on self-winding Calibre 2160 has enabled not only a 20% reduction in the movement’s weight but also a complete rethink of its architecture. Its curvature is thus very slender, at barely 5.65 mm thick – a real technical feat considering the requirements linked to the integration of a tourbillon carriage. This thinness is notably due to the choice of a peripheral gold oscillating weight, which also enables a completely clear view of the rear of the movement. The work done on the baseplate and the four bridges can be clearly admired, with the NAC (N-acetylcysteine) surface treatment applied by electrolysis conferring an anthracite grey tint. This contemporary touch given to the movement blends perfectly with the classic haute horlogerie finishes in the form of hand-drawn flanks and hand-chamfering with polished bevels to accentuate the light playing across the components. The mainplate and bridges are also delicately decorated to create a finish of very fine, perfectly horizontal grooves. Such concern for details is a credo which holds that even the smallest part deserves the same meticulous attention as those that are perfectly visible.

The same NAC surface treatment can be found on the barrel, of which the drum and cover have been entirely openworked, creating a compass rose shape on the dial side – another original feature of Calibre 2160 SQ. To complete the openworking of this 186-component movement, the wheels have also been made lighter, while the tourbillon is held by a rounded-off upper bridge. The tourbillon regulator rotating once per minute operates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and serves as a small seconds indicator by means of one of the four screws used to secure the carriage and which is grey on the pink gold version and flame-blued on the titanium version.

For this new calibre, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have also redesigned the regulating organ housed in the tourbillon carriage coupled with the escapement. A new balance-spring was designed in-house, equipped with a Breguet overcoil (terminal curve). By folding the outer spring coil towards the centre, outside its horizontal plane, this arrangement forces a flat development of the spring, thus ensuring enhanced isochronism.

The art of details

The sapphire crystal serving as the dial reveals all the details of the calibre, like a horological anatomy taking shape with each component. The hour-markers secured to this crystal are in rhodium-plated 18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold, depending on the model. The same noble metals are used for the hands which, like the hour-markers, are coated with Super-LumiNova® ensuring perfect night-time visibility. The dial ring is available in black lacquered 18K 5N pink gold or in blue PVD-treated 18K white gold.

Particular care has been devoted to the finishing of the case and bracelet. The bezel ring is circular satin-brushed on the 18K 5N pink gold version and sandblasted on the Grade 5 titanium iteration. The case and bracelet of both models are vertically satin-brushed with polished angles on the bracelet links, whose shape is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem.

Both watches feature the Overseas collection specific interchangeable strap system. They come with two straps in calfskin and rubber: black with two 18K 5N pink gold pin buckles for the gold model; and blue with an interchangeable titanium folding clasp for the titanium model.

The Anatomy of Beauty ®

The Overseas tourbillon skeleton watch features architecture and finishes that are meticulous in every detail, reflecting the quest for excellence cherished by the Maison, whose 2022 “Anatomy of Beauty®” theme pays tribute to the extraordinary work of its artisans. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.**********************

Sum-up

Several “firsts” characterize the new Overseas tourbillon skeleton model. It is the first timepiece in the collection equipped with a tourbillon movement in a skeletonised version. The new Manufacture Calibre 2160 SQ, featuring hand-crafted finishes characteristic of haute horlogerie yet in a contemporary spirit, is equipped with an original regulating organ featuring a balance-spring with a Breguet overcoil. The openworking of the barrel reveals a cover shaped like compass rose, a novel design for Vacheron Constantin. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium, this latest version is the first Vacheron Constantin watch made entirely of this metal, including the bezel and crown. This breath of fresh air, which is entirely in keeping with the travel spirit of the Overseas collection, is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case. Each component is reworked and finished by hand, perfectly illustrating the Maison’s Anatomy of Beauty theme for 2022, which highlights all the richness and subtlety of the details featured in a Vacheron Constantin timepiece. Both versions come with two interchangeable leather and rubber straps.

TECHNICAL DATA

Reference
6000V/110R-B934
6000V/110T-B935

Calibre
2160 SQ
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)
186 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium
42.5 mm diameter, 10.39 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Sapphire

18K 5N pink gold / 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®

Bracelet
18K 5N pink gold bracelet / Grade 5 Titanium (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold / Grade 5 Titanium triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system

Additional straps
Black / blue calfskin leather with white stitches
Black / blue rubber

Buckles
6000V/110R-B934: Each additional strap comes with a 18K 5N pink gold
6000V/110T-B935: Titanium Grade 5 interchangeable folding-clasp

Ref. 6000V/110T-B935 (titanium version) only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

30 March, 2022/by alfredoroses

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A Piece of Your Time: What Does It Mean to Gift a Woman a Watch?

From as far back as the 16th-century, watches have been a luxury that holds far more sentimental value than merely telling the time. Today, giving a watch as a gift still contains a great deal of meaning. If that gift is from a man to a woman, it’s even more significant.

If you’ve received one of our high-end, luxury timepieces as a gift from the special man in your life you might be wondering what it signifies. To offer some insight, we’ve outlined just some of the wonderful reasons men have bought their girlfriends, fiancées or wives a Backes & Strauss watch.

THE GIFT OF STYLE

Wristwatches have been a must-have fashion accessory since they became popular at the beginning of the 20th century. As small as they are, they say a lot about the wearer, and classic designs can complement even the most dedicated follower of fashion.

Our timepieces have been designed to be worn for decades, and tie into changing tastes in the world of what’s in vogue. When you’re given the perfect watch, you’re getting the result of careful thinking about your specific taste and lifestyle. You’ll hopefully receive an accessory that complements your overall style and makes you look that much more fabulous.

Whether it’s a streamlined chronograph or a frothy rose gold timepiece with a delicate strap, every Backes & Strauss watch has a character of its very own. Just like you do. The person who purchased your watch will have considered the essence of you, and your watch should express this.

THE GIFT OF PRACTICALITY

Even the sumptuous, diamond-encrusted, handcrafted masterpieces we create are utilitarian items. However advanced we may be technologically, people still need watches!

It’s good to stay organised, and this means keeping track of time throughout the day. But as many women can agree, it’s not always the most straight forward task to root around in your handbag to find your cellphone! A quick glance at a beautiful timepiece on your wrist is much easier and far more satisfying. Plus, it provides a subtle yet constant reminder of the special person who gifted you your watch too.

THE GIFT OF LUXURY

There’s nothing that can quite compare to unboxing a luxurious gift and Backes & Strauss makes this part of the process especially enjoyable. The sumptuousness of our designs extends into how our pieces are packaged, and we make sure every second you spend with one of our items counts!

Like jewellery, there is the exquisite suspense in sliding the box open to reveal what’s inside and then the pure joy at the thing of beauty you find. Whether it’s a birthday gift, a present for the holiday season or just because, when you gift a woman a watch, you’re also gifting her a symbol of opulence and splendour.

THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING

Another significant metaphor that comes into play with a watch gift is that of giving someone time. This is a commodity we all wish we had more of with the ones we love. Watches can even become treasured heirlooms, handed down to the next generation of powerful women in the family to mark important milestones. In that sense, the strong sentimental value of your watch has no time limit – it is to be enjoyed for generations to come.

Wearing your new gift may even help you be more on time! After all, it elevates you and makes you look more polished and professional. This goes a long way towards readying you for the challenges you face every day.

THE GIFT OF A DAILY REMINDER

There’s nothing throwaway about the gift of a watch. After all, they’ve been carefully designed to be worn, used, and enjoyed each day. They’re also one of the only things that can be worn all the time and giving someone a timepiece means they’ll think of you more often.

A wristwatch will remind a woman of the person who gave it to her every time she puts it on, each time she looks at it during your day or night. And then once more when she takes it off before a shower, bath, swim, or to get a good night’s rest.

For betrothed couples, watches can make a poetic, romantic gift symbolising the couple’s time together. Classic timepieces are ideal as an anniversary gift as they signify the past, present and future. A man who gives you this kind of present is communicating the depth of his commitment and his abiding affection for you.

If you’re not yet betrothed and have received something of this calibre from the man in your life, it almost always means that he’s committed to you. It signifies the depth of your relationship and cements the idea that he would like to share every second, minute and hour together.

A PERSONAL, UNIQUE GIFT

What makes the perfect wristwatch such an ideal gift for women is the fact that so much care and attention goes into choosing it. You’ll treasure not only the handcrafted excellence that defines our pieces but how personally meaningful it is too. It tells you that the giver values your wants and needs and deepens your relationship with recognition of your individuality.

The gift of wristwatch shows that a lot of thought has gone into the present and that the giver is interested in you and wants to know what you like. As complex a process as this is, it’s simplicity itself and is evidence of a deep and abiding connection between two people.

Giving something as personal and meaningful as a Backes & Strauss wristwatch requires the giver to make a calculated risk because he has to understand you to buy you something you’ll love. It’s a way to establish even more of an emotional tie between a couple and is about your beloved taking a more active role in your life.

Many literal and figurative meanings can be ascribed to the gift-giving of a watch. But at the end of the day, it’s up to you to decipher what the intention is behind it. However, it’s a pretty safe assumption that if someone has taken the time to try and figure out what kind of timepiece would suit you and your needs best; he’s been hit by Cupid’s arrow!

LUXURY WATCHES FOR HER

17 January, 2022/by Nico Nico

RELOJES, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes de Oro, Relojes Edición Limitada

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Lady Date-just the audacity of excellence

“A classic designed for a lady”. So might some describe the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. Maybe they’re right. If “classic” means perpetuating tradition with a blend of elegance and precision, grace and resistance, beauty and technical performance. If being “a lady” means constantly pursuing a higher standard with unyielding determination. Then indeed the Lady-Datejust is a classic designed for a lady.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

1957. THE BIRTH OF AN ICON.
Audrey Hepburn was captivating Hollywood, Sylvia Earle obtained her Master of Science, Françoise Sagan was shaking up the literary landscape, Pat Smythe reigned supreme in equestrian sport, and fashion designer Adèle Simpson had New-York clamouring for her latest creations. Women were changing.

No less ladylike than their mothers, they were enjoying new, active lifestyles. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, understood this: the modern woman wanted to manage her time to control her destiny. She needed as much precision as men. And so was born, in 1957, Rolex’s classic women’s watch: the Lady-Datejust. A watch of smaller proportions built on unwavering standards of excellence. A watch for women that was every bit as reliable as a man’s. With this innovation, the brand had broken new technical ground in terms of the case size, while also obtaining COSC chronometric certification for this small model.

The Lady-Datejust was inspired by audacity. It addressed not only a technical challenge but a cultural one, too: this watch would serve to further women’s independence. An uncompromising creation, combining elegance and accuracy on the wrist of a modern, graceful and accomplished woman. A symbol of assertiveness expressed in exquisitely feminine form.

Incorporating several decades of watchmaking innovations, the Lady-Datejust has established itself as the ultimate classic women’s watch: a piece of technical prowess
made for women who believe in themselves.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

AN AUTHENTICALLY MODERN CLASSIC

Adopted by women whose steadfast determination has led them to remarkable achievements, the Lady-Datejust graces the wrist of the marine biologist Sylvia Earle, the golf champion Annika Sörenstam, and the singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa. As pioneers in each of their fields, they portray a new image of femininity: engaged, modern and in permanent pursuit of excellence.

Inspired by their legacy, the next generation is bringing renewed vigour to disciplines across the spectrum. Whether it be the prodigious pianist Yuja Wang, the tennis champion Garbiñe Muguruza, the biologist Emma Camp working to protect coral reefs, or the sitar virtuoso Anoushka Shankar, these women are the new faces of
contemporary femininity.

FEATURES OF THE LADY-DATEJUST
• Classic timeless elegance
• Instantaneous date with Cyclops lens
• Many variants (large selection of dials, bezels and bracelets)
• Superlative Chronometer certification, specific to Rolex
• International five-year guarantee
• Self-winding mechanical movement, COSC certified
• Power reserve of 55 hours
• Syloxi hairspring in silicon
• High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
• 28 mm Oyster case, waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet)

WATCHMAKING KNOW-HOW AND TECHNOLOGY CONCENTRATED IN A SMALL WATCH 28 MM OYSTER CASE A SMALL CASE FOR A GREAT WATCHMAKING ACHIEVEMENT

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

The Lady-Datejust’s Oyster case, 28 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and elegance. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy, or from 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of
the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Lady-Datejust’s movement.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 2236 A MOVEMENT AT THE FOREFRONT OF WATCHMAKING TECHNOLOGY

The Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. The oscillator of calibre 2236 has a balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed and patented by Rolex.

Calibre 2236 is fitted with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

The movement of the Lady-Datejust will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising
quality standards.

SYLOXI HAIRSPRING AN EXCLUSIVE HAIRSPRING FOR OPTIMUM STABILITY

Calibre 2236 incorporates a Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which is patented and manufactured by Rolex. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Syloxi hairspring provides great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

The Syloxi hairspring found in calibre 2236 has a geometry that guarantees the regularity of the movement in any position. It also includes a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus
escape wheel.

A SINGULAR WATCH IN EVERY WAY

The quintessentially classic watch, known for its timeless and inimitable style, the Lady-Datejust has, over time, unveiled a variety of bezels and dials that reflect as much the personality of its wearer as the model’s ability to renew its own elegance in fine detail. It beckons its owner to shape its own future.

DIALS, BEZELS AND CASES

Multiple dial variations are possible on the Lady-Datejust. They are available in a wealth of materials, colours, motifs and markers – indices, Roman or Arab numerals – with numerous gem-setting options for the hour markers or the dial itself. Among the iconic champagne-colour, silver, white, pink and diamond-set dials, the dial in mother-of-pearl
stands out for its singularity. Domed, fluted or gem-set, the bezel of the Lady-Datejust is available in three different designs, each conferring its own distinctive aesthetic.

MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL NATURAL ELEGANCE

Mother-of-pearl is by its nature full of mystery and surprises. Depending on its origin, it can be pink, white, black or yellow. It differs in colour, intensity and structure according to the part of the shell from which it is extracted. At Rolex, mother-of-pearl is never artificially coloured. Instead, particular know-how and skill are devoted to simply highlighting its natural beauty and preserving the original hues. As all mother-of-pearl dials are unique pieces, an identical dial will never be found on another wrist.

GOLD AND OYSTERSTEEL

The Lady-Datejust is available in several metal alloys: Oystersteel, 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, and in a Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow, white or
Everose gold).

GOLDS BY ROLEX

Whether yellow, white or Everose, the 18 ct gold of the Lady-Datejust shines with a special radiance. Rolex has its own foundry and develops its gold alloys from the purest
raw materials. From casting to the shaping and polishing of the gold, everything is carried out in the Rolex workshops with meticulous care to ensure impeccable quality. Everose gold, an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy developed and patented by Rolex, owes its unique hue to its exclusive composition.

THE GEM-SET LADY-DATEJUST

In 2021, Rolex introduced a new sparkling version of its Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. This entirely gem-set version in 18 ct yellow gold is draped in glittering diamonds. The case is entirely set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, while the bezel features 44 brilliant-cut diamonds. This new Lady-Datejust is fitted on a President bracelet set with 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial is paved with 291 brilliant-cut diamonds.

26 December, 2021/by Maria G

RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer, Relojes Edición Limitada

HUBLOT LOVES ASPEN SNOWMASS

Hublot takes on the (Black) Diamond and pays tribute to 75 years of Aspen Snowmass with the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition

Aspen Snowmass is an enigma. A destination steeped in history and community, it also moves with speed and draws visitors the world over. It is hard to make time stand still in America’s most iconic and adventurous mountain town, but that’s exactly what Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot and Aspen Snowmass have achieved today.

In honor of the 75^th Anniversary of Aspen Snowmass, Hublot: The Official Resort Partner and Official Timekeeper of Aspen Snowmass, has kicked off the resort’s auspicious 75th anniversary (taking place in January 2022) ahead of time, by launching a limited-edition commemorative timepiece to celebrate the Diamond Anniversary (that is fondly termed “The Black Diamond Anniversary” in acknowledgement of the mountain’s famed downhill terrain).

Aspen Snowmass – home to four mountains, two towns and one unforgettable experience at the confluence of nature, culture, and recreation – and Hublot – renowned for The Art of Fusion, have combined forces to design a piece that speaks to the DNA of both the mountain and the Swiss luxury Maison.

Designed in artful collaboration, the alpine-white skeletonized timepiece takes on the iconic Hublot Classic Fusion model. This limited edition of 30 pieces made of black ceramic with a white ceramic bezel features the Aspen tree leaf on the second hand and high shine brilliant titanium, a homage to the silver mining heritage of the Rockies and Aspen township. The limitation is stamped on the back of the timepiece along with the 75-year commemorative logo: the piece is a true collector’s item for 30 lucky few.

26 December, 2021/by Maria G

Especiales, MOTOR, RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes de Mujer

Girard-Perregaux – Tourbillon with three flying bridges Aston Martin Edition

Girard-Perregaux – Tourbillon with three flying bridges -Aston Martin Edition

New Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition celebrates the shared passions of the two luxury brands
This is the first timepiece to be offered after Girard-Perregaux was announced as Official Watch Partner of Aston Martin in February
World premiere – black calf leather strap featuring Girard-Perregaux’s exclusive Rubber Alloy
Just 18 Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition will be made

La Chaux-de-Fonds – Switzerland: The first timepiece borne of the recently announced partnership between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin has been revealed today. The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition unites the watchmaking expertise of Girard-Perregaux with Aston Martin’s unique knowledge of luxury and performance.

Both brands demonstrate a passion for refined craftsmanship and have been working together, sharing their understanding of design, materials and technology. This latest model celebrates the iconic Three Bridges pocket watch from the 19^th century in a decidedly contemporary way, down to the smallest details, including the strap. The latter is a world premiere, presented in black calf leather and featuring Rubber Alloy, an innovative rubber insert injected with white gold. The design of the strap is intended to evoke thoughts of Aston Martin racing cars of the past.

Upholding Girard-Perregaux tradition, this model skilfully plays with proportions and shapes much to the delight of aesthetes.The 44 millimetre case of the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition is formed of Grade 5 titanium, a strong, hypoallergenic alloy selected by Aston Martin for its
lightweight properties. It is suffused with black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), bestowing the watch with a stealthy appearance. Interestingly, titanium ore was discovered in Great Britain, the home of Aston Martin, back in 1791 by an English clergyman, William Gregor, in the same year Girard-Perregaux was founded.

A sapphire crystal ‘box’ is positioned front of house, as well as to the rear, coaxing light to illuminate the case interior, thereby augmenting readability. The movement eschews a mainplate, sitting between both panes of sapphire crystal and seemingly floating in mid-air. Three bridges, an iconic signature of Girard-Perregaux, span the dial and are formed of titanium with black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) treatment and polished angles. The design endows the timepiece with an airy appearance, affording breathtaking views of movement components ordinarily hidden from view. While Girard-Perregaux has a long history of making the invisible visible, in this instance it has ventured off-piste, creating a watch whose movement appears to levitate within the case. This is achieved by paring back the movement, causing the mainplate to seemingly disappear, thereby creating the illusion of the movement flying within the case. It was this particular characteristic that led to the term ‘Flying Bridges’.

The cage of the tourbillon, positioned in the lower portion of the dial, is ‘lyre-shaped’, a characteristic found on all the company’s tourbillons dating back to the 19th century. A blued hand affixed to the cage imparts the running seconds. The tourbillon cage, measuring a mere 10mm in diameter, is composed of 79 components which collectively weigh only 0.25 grams. This remarkably low figure helps mitigate energy consumption.

The barrel, positioned at 12 o’clock, is openworked, affording partial views of the mainspring. A white gold micro-rotor, positioned beneath the barrel, energises the mainspring and, unlike most automatic watches, it grants unobstructed views of the movement. The car company’s name is engraved on the vertical flank of the micro-rotor and is filled with white luminescent treatment which appears blue in restricted light. Likewise, the indexes and hands are also treated with white luminescent treatment and, once again, emit a blue glow in dim light.

Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, said, “We are delighted to partner with Aston Martin, entrusting their team with arguably our most iconic timepiece, delivering a fresh perspective on Haute Horlogerie. Rarely do we work with others to reinterpret the Three Bridges, however, on this occasion, we have made an exception, mindful of Aston Martin’s prowess for design.

“When viewing the design of an Aston Martin, you will note the firm’s distinctive front grille, first seen on the DB Mark III of the late 50s. Likewise, the scoops and side strakes found on the company’s modern-day models are functional elements, intended to improve airflow while enriching the overall appearance of each car.”

“At Girard-Perregaux we share a similar philosophy. For example, when the Maison released the now-legendary Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges in 1867, it transformed three functional elements into attractive aesthetic features and demonstrated an approach that we continue to employ today. Finally, this latest partnership provides a fascinating chapter in Girard-Perregaux’s 230-year history.”Marek Reichman, Aston Martin Executive Vice President and Chief Creative Officer adds: ‘The greatest of the challenges we faced with the design of this new timepiece were those of scale, as you can imagine. We had to consider lines and proportion on a far smaller scale than we are used to in the realm of automotive design. That said, good design is good design, whether it is a watch or a car, the principles remain the same. I’m delighted with the finished watch and congratulate everyone who worked on this project as this collaboration has produced a timepiece of great beauty.

The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition, a limited edition of 18 pieces, is immediately available worldwide in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

23 December, 2021/by Maria G

RELOJES, Relojes de Hombre, Relojes Edición Limitada

Roger Dubuis’ DNA – EXCALIBUR GULLY MONOTOURBILLON

Searching for inspiration in the most unexpected places is in Roger Dubuis’ DNA. This includes uniting with world-famous urban culture artists who share its common values to break the rules, showcase radical expertise and obsess daily over the design of the future. Continuing on a journey to create boundary-breaking masterpieces in the world of Hyper Horology, Roger Dubuis is proud to introduce the second of its URBAN ART TRIBE timepieces with the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon.

Gully, the French graffiti-turned-studio artist, follows the path started by Dr. Woo after being granted access to Roger Dubuis’ most important room: the manufacture itself. Taking on the same creative challenge to reinterpret the astral signature of the iconic Excalibur Monotourbillon, he presents his vision of the star by uniting it with his colourful world of graffiti.

BRINGING TWO WORLDS TOGETHER

Extravagant, determined and disruptive, Gully is as bold and bright in his ideas as Roger Dubuis. Having created a name for himself graffitiing throughout France in the nineties and noughties, he left the streets behind to maintain his anonymity. Now he works in a studio and exhibits his work at respected galleries. Master of appropriations, Gully’s art combines all movements, from hyperrealism to pop art, as well as surrealism and cubism, to create facetious and narrative masterworks that travel the history of art as if seen through a child’s eyes. Talking about his craft, Gully says: “Bringing different worlds together is my trademark. This project has that ethos at its core, making it an obvious collaboration for us both.”

Never one to shy away from a challenge, Roger Dubuis made the decision to recraft and reshape its own work of art – the Excalibur Monotourbillon – earlier this year. Through the exceptional skill and ingenuity of its watchmakers, the perfect conditions were created for the URBAN ART TRIBE collaboration. The use of clean cut lines on both case and movement as well as modern and technical materials not only raises the timepiece to an even higher standard, but also makes it an exciting canvas for creativity. In providing this pure, versatile space, it becomes the playground on which Gully expresses himself.

A MASTERPIECE REMASTERED

Gully unites two worlds into a new singular masterpiece by combining the Maison’s high watchmaking expertise with his fun artistic flair. Consciously appropriating the astral signature and merging it with his graffiti, the star is lifted to new heights by his style. As a nod to his very first street works, Gully’s lettered tag uses the famous single-line technique. Starting from the centre of the timepiece, his hand moves straight towards 11 o’clock, drawing the preliminary draft of a G. The line then heads towards 3 o’clock, but changes direction half-way to partially design a Y. Finally, the line reaches 9, then 12, 6 and 3, before it moves to the centre of the tourbillon and across to 4 o’clock. Returning the line to the centre, it becomes clear that two L’s have been drawn. He finishes the run by drawing a U partially around the tourbillon. Look carefully at the letters born out of this continuous movement as the artist not only reinterprets the Roger Dubuis star but also signs the dial. Look closer still and it becomes apparent that two new stars have been created, levitating in parallel harmony on the top left and bottom right of the dial. From a single line to a singular masterpiece.

Inspired by the spray paint used in urban art, the Maison’s watchmakers filled the letters with luminescent coloured lacquer while the hour markers and the hands are filled withSuper-Luminova™*.The bright modern shades recall the artist’s universe, while creating aesthetic harmony and a one-of-a-kind finish.Imbued with a further technical feat, the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon glows under UV light as the Maison’s obsession withluminescence shines through.

Gully adds: “To collaborate with expert craftsmen in industries that I am unfamiliar with helps me grow in my understanding of the world – and of art itself. Together we have created something singular, entirely new, and inimitable.”

The watchmakers’ technical talent is further evident in the RD512SQ calibre itself. By reducing the tourbillon weight, the power reserve is radically optimised to 72 hours, providing the option of leaving the watch unworn over weekends. What’s more, to be sealed with a highly demanding signature in fine watchmaking – the Poinçon de Genève – requires the manual decoration of every component, as well as unexpected and antinomic decorations, such as sandblasted top surfaces and polished angles. Underscored by rarity and limited to just eight pieces, the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon is housed in a 42 mm Dark Grey DLC Titanium case and mounted on a black calf leather strap, interchangeable with a Quick Release System for ultimate comfort and flexibility.

NO RULES. OUR GAME.

*Roger Dubuis is not owner of the trademark Super Luminova™

15 December, 2021/by alfredoroses