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4997/200R - CALATRAVA
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Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

Patek Philippe presents luxury timepieces in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

 

Patek Philippe presents 17 new watch models with innovative technical and aesthetic features, enriching its vast range of collections

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2023, the Geneva-based manufacture is unveiling a wide selection of new models, ranging from a Calatrava with an original 24-hour display and a Travel Time function for the display of a second time zone, to a new haute joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime, and the first Annual Calendar to enter the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection, renowned for its modern casual chic. A new vintage celebrating technical mastery and creativity.

“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves.” That was the message from Thierry Stern, president of the family-owned manufacture, in a recent communications campaign centering on the company’s brand philosophy. From the Grand Complications to the elegant sports models and others that have become icons of horological design, Patek Philippe maintains a vast choice of watches for men and women in every market segment. As time passes, the manufacture takes great care to ensure a balanced evolution of the approximately 150 references, which are crafted in small series, ranging from about ten pieces to a few hundred. The 17 new introductions presented at the Watches and Wonders 2023 salon are the perfect illustration.

Five refined new looks for the striking watches –Grand Complications emblematic of Patek Philippe

Since the manufacture’s foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe has made its mark as one of the greatest specialists in striking watches. Its supreme mastery was confirmed in 2014 by the launch, as a limited edition, of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch, with 20 complications. This timepiece, which joined the current collection in 2016, is particularly notable for its five chiming modes, including an alarm striking the pre-selected time, and a date repeater striking the date on demand.

The manufacture is reinterpreting the design of the double-face reversible case, endowed with a patented rotation mechanism, by presenting it for the first time in a bicolor version combining white gold and rose gold. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 also stands out by its two brown opaline dials, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the side displaying the time of day, and its two-tone chestnut brown patinated alligator strap and bicolor folding buckle.

In 2022, Patek Philippe highlighted the mechanical perfection of the Grandmaster Chime with two gem- set versions, one with baguette-cut diamonds (Reference 6300/400G-001) the other with baguette-cut diamonds and baguette-cut blue sapphires (Reference 6300/401G-001). Now, the manufacture is presenting a new alliance between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001 shimmering with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 ct) in a superb example of the “baguette” and “invisible” setting techniques. This timepiece is endowed with two dials in ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the time side and a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand stitching.

Another outstanding piece among the striking watches, Reference 5316, launched in 2017, unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator. In the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this timepiece a unique new modern allure –with a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and black-gradient rim, affording a veiled glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch.

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001

The manufacture is also enriching its selection of minute-repeating wristwatches –the largest such range in a current collection –with two reinterpretations under the heading of Rare Handcrafts. Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model that always strikes the local time –is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Its dial center is adorned with a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene depicting one of the famous steamboats still plying the waters of Lake Geneva. Another new model, Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012, is endowed with a self-winding movement and “cathedral” gongs whose sound is particularly deep and rich. It features a new dial in blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a distinctive hand-guilloched swirling pattern.

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001

Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 

A new complicated model and refreshed designs in the Calatrava collection

With its sleek round case and air of understatement, the Calatrava collection (launched in 1932) has made its mark as the archetype of timeless elegance. Over the years, Patek Philippe has added to this vast family a variety of complications used in everyday life, such as the Travel Time dual time zone function and the weekly calendar. The manufacture is now expanding its range of travel watches with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 featuring the Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24- hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement is further distinguished by its patented system for correcting local time by the crown. It is housed in a rose-gold case harmonizing with a blue dial embellished by complex finishing touches, adorned with numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold, individually applied by hand.

Since 2015, the models in the Pilot style – inspired by the Patek Philippe watches created for aviators in the 1930s – have featured prominently in the manufacture’s collections, with several versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with the dual time-zone mechanism, as well as a Grand Complication equipped with a 24-hour alarm. Patek Philippe is now endowing this distinctive line, known for its original, highly recognizable aesthetic, with its first two chronograph models: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001, with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. These two watches house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement uniting three practical and user-friendly complications:   a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function and the date indicated by a hand, coupled with local time.

Other new models in the Patek Philippe current collection include the Calatrava references 6007G- 001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 featuring a graphic modern style. The ebony black dials, enriched with three types of finish, center an embossed “carbon” pattern. The dynamism of the design is heightened by touches of color on the dials and straps: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011). The white-gold cases house the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with date and stop-seconds function.

4997/200R - CALATRAVA

4997/200R – CALATRAVA

Patek Philippe is also expanding its range of elegant watches for women with the new Calatrava self- winding Reference 4997/200R-001, a reinterpretation of a great classic that catches the eye with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap decked out in purple. The dial, embossed with a pattern of concentric waves, is coated with more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, creating a mesmerizing sense of depth. The case is adorned with a diamond-set bezel and houses the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

New functions and new faces for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe made its mark in the domain of sporty elegance by designing two models that have acquired cult status: the Nautilus (1976) and the Aquanaut (1997), the latter strengthening its offer in 2004 with the launch of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce line. Following the introduction of a Travel Time dual time-zone model in 2021 and a self-winding chronograph version in 2022, the Aquanaut Luce is now treating itself to a new practical and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar. Graced with a blue-gray dial and strap, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 in rose gold enhances the choice of complicated watches for women with a non-gemset model.

The new self-winding ladies’ Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 coordinates a rose-gold case with a dial and integrated strap in taupe –a warm hue between brown and gray in perfect harmony with this model’s “modern casual chic” style. Its characteristic rounded octagonal bezel is lit by the fire of 48 diamonds. The case is water resistant to 120 m and houses the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with stop seconds.

The self-winding Aquanaut chronograph for men, already available in steel and in white gold, also sports a rose-gold case for the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968R-001, endowed with a sunburst dial in a gradient of brown to black, and a matching composite strap.

From technical models to jewelry pieces

In the segment of complicated watches for men, Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010 endowed with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial lends a new face to this alliance between two sought-after Patek Philippe complications.

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001

The Gondolo collection, comprising the Patek Philippe “form watches” of Art Deco inspiration, announces the return of a jewelry watch with unique style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient, highlighting the case’s refined curves. The brown-lacquered dial presents a floral decoration with contrasting finishes.

A rich collection of rare handcrafts

 Once again, as in previous years, Patek Philippe is also unveiling a splendid collection of one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces (dome table clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches) showcasing the rarest and most refined of the artistic crafts, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, hand engraving and wood marquetry. The “Rare Handcrafts 2023” exhibition, bringing together these 67 creations, will be open to the public from April 1 to 15 2023 in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar 5271/11P 

 

 

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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
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Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar 5271/11P 

5271/11P – GRAND COMPLICATIONS
MANUAL WINDING

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Paying tribute to an iconic Grande Complication, Patek Philippe has created a jewelry version of its chronograph with perpetual calendar Reference 5271, enhanced by 80 blue baguette-cut sapphires (5.16 cts). The aesthetic harmony is complemented by the lacquered blue dial with black-gradient rim and the shiny black alligator strap with contrasting blue stitching.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The CH 29-535 PS Q caliber is distinguished by its traditional architecture (manually wound, column wheel, toothed-wheel horizontal clutch), combined with six patented innovations in the chronograph, as well as its exceptionally slim calendar mechanism.

WATCH
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. Chronograph. Central chronograph hand. Instantaneous 30-minute counter. Perpetual Calendar. Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. Date by hand. Moon phases. Small seconds.
DIAL
Lacquered blue with black-gradient rim, gold applied hour markers.
CASE
Platinum. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs. Water-resistant to 30 m. Diameter: 41 mm. Height: 12.7 mm.
GEMSETTING
58 baguette-cut sapphires: 4.11 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette-cut sapphires: 1.05 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette-cut sapphires (5.16 cts).
STRAP
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black. Fold-over clasp set with sapphires.

Price : 348’870 EUR*

*Suggested retail price taxes included. Prices may be subject to alteration at any time and do not constitute a contract.
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Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023
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Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

JAZZMASTEROPEN HEART LADY AUTO

Uplifting pink hues bring a breath of fresh air to our newest Jazzmaster Open Heart and Ardmore Quartz. Inspired by the flowers in bloom, the Jazzmaster Open Heart is enhanced with a dial dressed in subtle pink for feminine flair and crisp style.

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

Exemplifying the versatile Art Deco appeal, the Ardmore Quartz celebrates the awakening of spring with a pink leather strap and a sunray silver dial with matching-in-color Roman numerals

Hamilton Pink Luxury watch 2023

#hamiltonwatch #pink #myluxepoint

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The new anthracite dial Historiador Asturias

The new anthracite dial Historiador Asturias

Cuervo y Sobrinos just released a new edition of the Historiador Asturias, featuring an anthracite dial. In addition, the Asturias collection is now equipped with the CYS 5124 movement, produced on a La Joux-Perret G100 base which has an impressive 68-hour power reserve.
Historiador Asturias – Soldier


Cuervo y Sobrinos was founded in 1882 by Cuervo and his nephews. This group of remarkable entrepreneurs and highly skilled goldsmiths originated from Asturias, a region in northwest Spain.
Historiador Asturias – Event Historiador Asturias – Event

The Historiador Asturias honours those courageous emigrants who, in the 19th century, sailed to the Americas in the pursuit of fortune. Cuba proved a popular choice for the intrepid Asturians, eager to discover a new world and make a better life.


Historiador Asturias – Event Asturias is a principality located in northwest Spain. The industrial revolution reached this region at some point around 1830. The area was heavily dependent on coal mining and iron production. However, many citizens dreamed of a new life and chose to emigrate to the Americas, including Argentina, Uruguay, Puerto Rico, Mexico and, most pertinently, Cuba.
Ramón Fernández Cuervo an immigrant from Pravia, a town in Asturias, established a jewellery store in Havana in 1862. Many of the Asturians were entrepreneurial and some returned to their home in northwest Spain as wealthy individuals, however, Ramon remained in Cuba and when his business was on a sound footing, he invited many of his family members to join him in Havana.


The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Asturias celebrates the birthplace of Don Ramon Cuervo, the founder of the company, his nephews and the many citizens from Asturias who chose to make Cuba their home. Collectively, these individuals have enriched Cuban society and helped make it what it is today.

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Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier
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Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier

Ready, set, go: Roger Dubuis roars across the starting line to reveal the Maison is now the official timing partner of the 2022 Goodwood Festival of Speed. The new collaboration is set to whip up pleasure-seeking visitors with a series of unforgettable thrills and emotions.

The hyper watchmaker already boasts two renowned partnerships within the motorsport’s universe, creating adrenaline-charged masterpieces with racing legend Lamborghini Squadra Corse and premium tyre expert Pirelli. Welcoming another partner to the fold with the Goodwood Festival of Speed is a natural next step. In honour of the new collaboration, Roger Dubuis is proud to unveil the Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier (MB). Born to race, the new timepiece boasts an expressive blend of hyper materials and hyper mechanics.

THRILLING MECHANICS, RAGING PERFORMANCE

The new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB reflects the DNA of Lamborghini Squadra Corse combined with the horological excellence of the Maison. Powered by an automatic RD630 calibre, the 45-mm diameter Excalibur Spider Huracán channels the same exhilarating performance as its motoring namesake. Strong visual cues are inspired from the Huracán GT3 EVO2, including the honeycomb motif made famous by the supercar, with its hexagonal dashboard paralleled in the shape of the calibre. Built like an engine, the calibre’s twin barrels and 12° tilted balance wheel also represent the movement signature associated with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. When viewed from the back, the skeletonised movement reveals the 360° oscillating rim weight. This reproduces the like-for-like speed effect of a Huracán wheel rim, as well as emulating its design. Finally, a crown inspired by the supercar’s racing nuts is paired with an upper calibre strut-bar bridge design reminiscent of those found on the V10 engine itself. When visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers, iconic timepieces are born.

HYPER-TECH MATERIALS MEET INSPIRING RACING CODES

Both Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse compulsively seek out hyper-tech materials to fulfil their obsession with shaping the future. Just as Lamborghini Squadra Corse chooses carbon fibre for its racing cars, Roger Dubuis crafts the new Excalibur Spider Huracán MB case, bezel, and crown from pure white Mineral Composite Fibre (MCF). Exclusively developed in-house, this hyper-tech material illustrates the Maison’s technical mastery. The 100% integrated Manufacture found that engineering silica via a Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) process could produce a material 13% lighter than SMC carbon. Not only does this lightness make it extremely comfortable to wear on the wrist, it also enables the creation of intricate designs thanks to a sturdy structure. Always seeking out the most expressive aesthetics, the pure white MCF is further elevated with embellishments in striking green, intense red and electrifying yellow to honour the design of the Huracán GT3 EVO. The same shades are also found on the white rubber strap, which features green calf leather perforated with tiny holes to reveal the red beneath. Intricate stitching in red adds to the audacious look, while a Quick Release System ensures ultimate versatility. As exclusive as the Festival of Speed Driver’s Club, the Excalibur Spider Huracán MB is reserved for a select tribe only and therefore limited to 88 pieces.

Join us to discover the Maison’s latest roaring creation and explore iconic timepieces at the Roger Dubuis booth at Goodwood Festival of Speed from June 23rd to June 26th. Adrenaline-seekers beware: This is going to be an epic weekend.

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HUBLOT – Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

https://www.hublot.com/ – Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

A Hublot ambassador since 2020, creative director Samuel Ross brings his unique graphic language to watchmaking for the first time with the limited-edition Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.

https://www.hublot.com/

A 40-year focus on the “Art of Fusion” has resulted in a meteoric rise for Hublot, seeing it catapulted to the pinnacle of innovative watchmaking. With the brand’s ability to combine seemingly diametrically opposed materials, plus an enduring drive to push the boundaries of what is technically and aesthetically possible, it has rewritten the rules of horology, leaving a new design language in its wake.

Fostering a desire to work with the most talented practitioners in alternate fields, the brand introduced its “Hublot Loves Art” initiative more than a decade ago. Hublot has since collaborated with some of the most talented artists and designers of a generation. Ground-breaking in outlook and highly collectable, the resulting watches offer new interpretations of time and timekeeping. The most recent creator to take up the mantle is Samuel Ross.

Mirroring Hublot’s trajectory, renaissance man Ross has experienced an equally breakneck rise to prominence. Describing himself as a creative director, the 30-year-old multi-disciplinary artist, filmmaker, and fashion designer graduated from Leicester De Montfort University in 2012 with a first-class honours’ degree in graphic design and illustration. Since then, he has collaborated with many brands and creative outlets – from Oakley and Nike to Dr. Martens and Mackintosh – launching his men’s Luxury Sportswear label A-Cold-Wall* in late 2015, and his design studio SR_A in 2019.

In 2019, Ross was awarded the prestigious Hublot Design Prize, and a year later he was announced as an official brand ambassador, an occasion marked by the unveiling of REFORM, a sculpture designed to encapsulate 40 years of Hublot. Combining an ancient, organic material (granite) with a modern, manmade one (steel), Ross created his own ‘Fusion’, uniting past and present in a production process that involved both traditional hand-finishing and cutting-edge machining.

The deceptively simple, industrial form of the 40cm high artwork has now been reinterpreted in the 44mm Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross – Ross’s first wristwatch collaboration with Hublot. Ross’s signature use of colour and love of stark geometry and urban design, come together with the innovation and precision that prevail in the work of both Ross and Hublot.

The distinctive, stylised hexagon of the Big Bang case is reflected in the titanium honeycomb mesh used on the sapphire dial, case, case back and strap. A basic building block of nature (seen in environments from beehives and snake’s scales to pineapple skin and snowflakes) the robust and efficient shape, that can be repeated without gaps or overlapping, has been appropriated as a standard for modern-day construction and design thanks to the seamless fit of each unit.

Here the hexagon is a visual symbol of the functionality of the watch – a key strand running through all of Ross’s design. Although it may be a wearable sculpture, Ross never loses sight of the need for it to be durable and ergonomic, the lightweight, openworked titanium structure and malleable rubber strap ensuring its comfort on the wrist. A proponent of colour theory, Ross has chosen orange – representing energy and optimism – for the strap and accents on the crown and tourbillon bridge and lateral bumpers that protect the case, a glowing contrast to the sober grey of the satin-finished case and bezel.

The 282-component, manufacture HUB6035 calibre within beats at 3 Hz and gives 72 hours of power reserve. Just 50 pieces will be produced, each one a piece of art that brings a new perspective and a new visual language

to watchmaking. To celebrate the launch, Ross’s signature colours will envelop Hublot’s 5th Ave boutique in New York City. The takeover will be repeated in Hublot stores across the globe, bringing the Samuel Ross universe to the world of horology.

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It’s fashion, baby! Hublot – Big Bang Unico Summer Purple

Big Bang Unico Summer Purple

It’s fashion, baby! Hublot stays on-trend this summer with the launch of a Big Bang Unico in a brand-new shade – purple! A purple splash for a refreshing dive into the bold, bright colours of Spring-Summer 2022.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Fashionistas around the world agree: bold, bright colours are back this season! Colour blocking is a trend gracing catwalks at the most recent Fashion Week events in the biggest capitals. This fresh, colourful approach has inspired Hublot’s new “Summer in the City” campaign as well as a new Summer edition of the iconic Big Bang Unico, which now has an all-purple look! Its 42-mm case is cut from aluminium, a modern, lightweight material.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

This anodised, satin-finished and polished case is purple all over. This colour has been made possible using a process which guarantees impeccable durability and offers remarkable protection from scratches and impacts. A technical feat on the part of Hublot’s engineers!

Beating at the heart of the Big Bang Unico Summer is the HUB1280 manufacture calibre, a chronograph movement whose column wheel is visible through the dial. It has a power reserve of 72 hours. The hands and indices are in the same shade of purple, enhanced here and there with touches of luminescent white.

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

To match its all-purple look, the Big Bang Unico Summer comes with two straps in the same colour. The first takes the form of a Velcro strap with matching stitching which is closed with a sports clasp. The second adopts the brand’s signature natural rubber and both bracelets feature the One-Click system, an interchangeable clasp system patented by https://www.hublot.com/.

Designed for everyone, the https://www.hublot.com/ watch will be available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. 

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

Hublot_Big_Bang_Unico_Summer_Purple

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OMEGA – Looks Magical. Works Beautifully.

Looks Magical.
Works Beautifully.

OMEGA celebrates its legendary history and the magical qualities of its precise and delicate watch mechanisms, with a stunning new campaign, that turns watch calibres into dream-like worlds.

The inner workings of Co-Axial movements provide the perfect stage settings for a dynamic and playful celebration of the Swiss brand’s extraordinary achievements.

OMEGA latest campaign tells the story of its technical prowess and pioneering spirit with scaled down figures and iconic objects, set against the backdrop of enchanting, futuristic “watch-scapes”.

OMEGA_Quality_Golf

OMEGA_Quality_Moon

OMEGA_Quality_Diving

The centrepiece of the campaign is a visually compelling movie, created by the same studio that produced the 3D Co-Axial video, now showing at the OMEGA Museum. It is from here that OMEGA has drawn its eye-catching pictures and designs for print media and window displays.

Themes explored include moon landings, deep-sea adventures, sports timekeeping and of course precision watchmaking. Even Snoopy makes an appearance, as the famous cartoon beagle has links to OMEGA’s role in the safe return of Apollo 13.

With its magical/sci-fi aesthetic, OMEGA’s new campaign is sure to catch the eyes of watch fans around the world. The settings are otherworldly and the models charming, witty – and collectable.

Making a return appearance in the campaign is OMEGA’s Co-Axial Escapement, launched in 1999.  Its smaller contact surfaces mean less friction, less lubrication and greater reliability. It also works its magic as a sculptural feature in a cinematic landscape.

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Hublot_Square-Bang-Unico-Collection_
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HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO

HUBLOT – SQUARE BANG UNICO – A NEW WATCH-SHAPE TAKES FORM AT WATCHES & WONDERS

Hublot unveils its own interpretation of the square watch, a totally new geometry for the watchmaker. Inspired by the Maison’s iconic Big Bang, this Square Bang Unico adds a new pillar, ‘The Shaped Collection’ to sit alongside the Spirit of Big Bang.

Is there anything that has not been explored in watchmaking? This is the question that Hublot’s R&D department asks itself every day. When you have created the most resistant materials, set up the craziest of partnerships and developed extraordinary complications, the answer is often very simply… In the shape. Hublot currently masters three: a round watch, a barrel-shaped watch, and the MPs, those ‘Master Pieces’ have that have broken free from all conventions.

Today, a fourth shape has been created: the square. Its geometry bewitched Hublot because of the challenges it sets. First, the movement. Since every calibre has the wheel as its basic component, it therefore needs a round movement. If you are to place a round movement harmoniously in a square case, this requires a very specific style. This is why most watchmakers hide their movement, to give the illusion of using a shaped movement or because they have failed to find a consistent aesthetic style.

Hublot decided to take a radically different direction: the watchmaker hides nothing of its own, in-house Unico movement, the pride of the Nyon watchmakers and the beating heart of most of its designs for over 10 years. The chronograph has a column wheel visible at 6 o’ clock, while its bicompax display dispenses with a dial, to reveal its secret inner workings.

The second challenge was the modular construction of the case, designed in line with Hublot’s DNA, with a central housing dressed with an upper and lower plate to enable a myriad of combinations and transformations. But this time, it is square in shape, and therefore much more difficult to make water resistant – Hublot pulls off the challenge with a guaranteed water resistance to 100 metres. The size of the case is also an important factor to ensure this model is perfectly ergonomic, providing comfort on the wrist very similar to that of the 42 mm Big Bang. Its pedigree from the brand’s icon can be seen in countless details.

First of all, there is the sandwich construction of its dial, which gives it different levels of depth and a highly architectural feel. As with the Big Bang, the Square Bang Unico’s dial makes extensive use of sapphire to give a clear view of the Unico movement, and also reuses the same hands.

Next, we find the six (functional) screws on the bezel, placed at exactly the same places as on the Big Bang. On either side of the Square Bang, you find the ‘ears’ from the Big Bang’s case, giving balance to the design while protecting the case. For the strap, in addition to the much appreciated One Click system of the Big Bang and its textured rubber, the two screws are fixed in the middle as an attachment. Finally, the Square Bang uses the same materials as its predecessor, including titanium, ceramic and King Gold, not to mention the famous ‘All Black’ finish.

Lastly, a new strap decorated with ‘chocolate squares’ further emphasises the Square Bang’s identity. Thanks to its interchangeable (One Click) system you can change the look of your watch in one click with an impressive range of Rubber, Alligator and soon soft-touch leather straps.

Five 42 mm models are already available. The first three are in solid titanium, black ceramic or King Gold. The last two blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Each model comes with a black rubber strap and a folding clasp in the same material as the case. These original designs beat to the rhythm of the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a 354-component automatic chronograph, set at 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h).

As is customary at Hublot, the finishing is uncompromising and has a very modern feel: polished and sandblasted screws, over-moulded rubber crown, push-pieces decorated with rubber ‘chocolate squares’, polished satin bottom and rhodium-plated or 5N gold-plated hands, depending on the model. The crown comes in over-moulded rubber. The textured pattern of the strap was created especially for the Square Bang. It includes four rows (like the four sides of the case) of raised squares (like the bezel on the case).

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Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

Jaeger-Lecoultre presents the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

THE PERPETUAL MOVEMENT OF THE SOLAR SYSTEM CAPTURED IN A SUBLIME OBJET D’ART

In keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal quest for precision, the Manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers have created a new complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon more closely than ever before, developing it specifically for the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590. The extraordinary mechanism brings an entirely new dimension to the Atmos – the unique perpetual clock that runs on air – displaying, in three dimensions and in real time, the relative positions and movements of Earth, the Moon and the Sun.

Nicknamed the Atmos Tellurium, this is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, pushing the limits of both precision and design, and the intricacy and architectural beauty of its movement naturally inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier. Dedicating a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration – from miniature-painting and laser-engraving to lacquer-work and meteorite inlay – they have elevated the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 to become a sublime work of art as well as an outstanding timekeeping device.

· Pushing the boundaries of precision and design, the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, requiring more than four years of research and development work

· New Calibre 590 incorporates a complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon

· The artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier dedicated a wide range of craft skills to its decoration, transforming an outstanding timekeeping device into a sublime work of art

Measuring Time as the Planets Move

In the very beginning, thanks to the movements of stars and planets, mankind became aware of the passing of time and began to define and measure it. Days, with periods of light and darkness, were defined by one complete rotation of Earth on its axis; years were defined by the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons.

Over the millennia, scientists invented instruments to reproduce these cycles and enhance their understanding of celestial phenomena. Clock-makers began to measure time by using the values of the various astronomical cycles – although the units of standard civil time are only approximate, based on the average values of solar, lunar and sidereal cycles. In 1543, Copernicus revolutionised scientific thinking with the publication of his heliocentric model of the solar system (first hypothesised by the Ancient Greek astronomer Aristarchus of Samos, the model had been discounted for more than 1,500 years in favour of an Earth-centred model).  The heliocentric model places the Sun, rather than Earth, at the centre of our solar system and its publication triggered the invention of the tellurion (also written as tellurium), a three-dimensional mechanical mobile that illustrates the relative positions and movements of Earth and the Moon in relation to the Sun. From the 18th century onwards, elaborate clocks were sometimes surmounted by these fascinating mechanisms. The nickname of Calibre 590 –‘Tellurium’ – is a tribute to those magnificent clocks.

Invented in 1928, the Atmos needs no human intervention to wind its movement; a temperature variation of just one degree Celsius provides sufficient energy to wind it for 48 hours, enabling it to run perpetually if kept under normal everyday conditions. Because this remarkable system produces only a small amount of energy – some 40 times less energy than a traditional 4Hz watch movement typically offers – the Atmos movement has been designed to consume as little energy as possible, with the balance taking one minute to perform a complete oscillation.

Over time, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have mastered the challenge of adding functions to the mechanism without substantially increasing energy consumption. In doing so, they have discovered that the complications best suited to the Atmos are those based on longer cycles, such as the seasons, months and phases of the moon.

A New Complication and a Captivating Display

The new Calibre 590 was entirely conceived, designed and constructed within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre and assembled in the Atmos atelier, a workshop solely dedicated to Atmos. Comprising 443 components, with the tellurium complication fully integrated into the movement, it required more than four years of research and development – its technical complexity and sophistication naturally meriting a place in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica collection. As well as reproducing with precision the rotation of Earth on its own axis, and the orbits of the Moon around Earth and Earth around the Sun, the new calibre indicates the corresponding months and seasons with a zodiacal calendar.

The clock face is defined by a peripheral ring formed of two layers. The upper layer, fixed in place, is marked with an hour-and-minute track and the names of the seasons; this conceals a mobile ring marked with the months, which appear in an aperture at 6 o’clock. Set within this frame is a disc of translucent blue sapphire crystal, laser-engraved with the zodiac signs. At the centre of the dial, the sun is represented by a burst of polished golden metal rays.

Close to the peripheral ring, balanced by a wedge-shaped counterweight, a circle of meteorite frames a transparent sapphire disc into which a spherical Earth and Moon are set. The Earth rotates on its axis in 24 hours, the length of a civil day, providing a night-day indication as it revolves. At the same time, the Moon orbits Earth in one synodic month, turning on its own axis to show its phases. Defined by one complete cycle of moon phases, a mean synodic month is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2 seconds in length. This mean (or average) duration allows for the slight variation caused by the elliptical shape of the Moon’s orbit. The mechanism of the Atmos is so close to this mean that it creates only one day of error in 5,770 years.

This entire Earth-and-Moon disc orbits around the central Sun, making a complete rotation in one solar (or “tropical”) year, indicating the seasons as it turns. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have succeeded in establishing a cycle of 365.2466 days. This is so close to the reference value of 365.2425 days found in the Gregorian calendar that it varies by only one day in 390 years, meaning that it will not need adjusting until the year 2412 (the only adjustment is the seasonal change).

‘Fully visible from every angle, the entire mechanism seems to hover in space within its cylindrical cabinet of glass. In fact, it is supported, and attached to the base by a virtually invisible glass cloche, which also encloses the annular balance. Like the main body of the movement, the balance also seems to floating as it performs its slow and mesmerising dance.’ explains Lionel Favre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Director.

Naturally, this extraordinary mechanism has inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier to dedicate a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration. Miniature painting adds detail and depth to the spherical Earth; laser engraving evokes the surface of the Moon; lacquer brings a rich glow to the main dial ring; and meteorite – material that has literally fallen from space – is inlaid on the Earth-Moon ring; and the glass cabinet has been hand-painted with a delicate rendering of the constellations.

The most complex Atmos clock ever created, the new Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 pushes the limits of precision and design a step further with a perpetual mechanism complemented by a tellurion that perpetuates time to almost infinity. It showcases this remarkable achievement in the form of a true work of art.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590

Dimensions: 215mm diameter x 253mm height

Calibre: perpetual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 590

Frequency: annular balance with 60-second oscillation

Functions: hours, minutes, night & day, month, moon phases, zodiacal calendar

Cabinet: cylindrical glass hand-painted with the constellations

Decorative finishes: inlaid meteorite; engraving; miniature painting; lacquer

Reference: Q5765300 – Limited edition of 10 pieces

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