Tag Archive for: watches

Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon

Roger Dubuis’ DNA – EXCALIBUR GULLY MONOTOURBILLON

Searching for inspiration in the most unexpected places is in Roger Dubuis’ DNA. This includes uniting with world-famous urban culture artists who share its common values to break the rules, showcase radical expertise and obsess daily over the design of the future. Continuing on a journey to create boundary-breaking masterpieces in the world of Hyper Horology, Roger Dubuis is proud to introduce the second of its URBAN ART TRIBE timepieces with the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon.

Gully, the French graffiti-turned-studio artist, follows the path started by Dr. Woo after being granted access to Roger Dubuis’ most important room: the manufacture itself. Taking on the same creative challenge to reinterpret the astral signature of the iconic Excalibur Monotourbillon, he presents his vision of the star by uniting it with his colourful world of graffiti.

BRINGING TWO WORLDS TOGETHER

Extravagant, determined and disruptive, Gully is as bold and bright in his ideas as Roger Dubuis. Having created a name for himself graffitiing throughout France in the nineties and noughties, he left the streets behind to maintain his anonymity. Now he works in a studio and exhibits his work at respected galleries. Master of appropriations, Gully’s art combines all movements, from hyperrealism to pop art, as well as surrealism and cubism, to create facetious and narrative masterworks that travel the history of art as if seen through a child’s eyes. Talking about his craft, Gully says: “Bringing different worlds together is my trademark. This project has that ethos at its core, making it an obvious collaboration for us both.”

Never one to shy away from a challenge, Roger Dubuis made the decision to recraft and reshape its own work of art – the Excalibur Monotourbillon – earlier this year. Through the exceptional skill and ingenuity of its watchmakers, the perfect conditions were created for the URBAN ART TRIBE collaboration. The use of clean cut lines on both case and movement as well as modern and technical materials not only raises the timepiece to an even higher standard, but also makes it an exciting canvas for creativity. In providing this pure, versatile space, it becomes the playground on which Gully expresses himself.

A MASTERPIECE REMASTERED

Gully unites two worlds into a new singular masterpiece by combining the Maison’s high watchmaking expertise with his fun artistic flair. Consciously appropriating the astral signature and merging it with his graffiti, the star is lifted to new heights by his style. As a nod to his very first street works, Gully’s lettered tag uses the famous single-line technique. Starting from the centre of the timepiece, his hand moves straight towards 11 o’clock, drawing the preliminary draft of a G. The line then heads towards 3 o’clock, but changes direction half-way to partially design a Y. Finally, the line reaches 9, then 12, 6 and 3, before it moves to the centre of the tourbillon and across to 4 o’clock. Returning the line to the centre, it becomes clear that two L’s have been drawn. He finishes the run by drawing a U partially around the tourbillon. Look carefully at the letters born out of this continuous movement as the artist not only reinterprets the Roger Dubuis star but also signs the dial. Look closer still and it becomes apparent that two new stars have been created, levitating in parallel harmony on the top left and bottom right of the dial. From a single line to a singular masterpiece.

Inspired by the spray paint used in urban art, the Maison’s watchmakers filled the letters with luminescent coloured lacquer while the hour markers and the hands are filled withSuper-Luminova™*.The bright modern shades recall the artist’s universe, while creating aesthetic harmony and a one-of-a-kind finish.Imbued with a further technical feat, the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon glows under UV light as the Maison’s obsession withluminescence shines through.

Gully adds: To collaborate with expert craftsmen in industries that I am unfamiliar with helps me grow in my understanding of the world – and of art itself. Together we have created something singular, entirely new, and inimitable.”

The watchmakers’ technical talent is further evident in the RD512SQ calibre itself. By reducing the tourbillon weight, the power reserve is radically optimised to 72 hours, providing the option of leaving the watch unworn over weekends. What’s more, to be sealed with a highly demanding signature in fine watchmaking – the Poinçon de Genève – requires the manual decoration of every component, as well as unexpected and antinomic decorations, such as sandblasted top surfaces and polished angles. Underscored by rarity and limited to just eight pieces, the Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon is housed in a 42 mm Dark Grey DLC Titanium case and mounted on a black calf leather strap, interchangeable with a Quick Release System for ultimate comfort and flexibility.

Together with its friends, the Maison shows what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed. In bringing a visionary artist together with incredible watchmakers, Roger Dubuis proves once again it is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology.

NO RULES. OUR GAME.

*Roger Dubuis is not owner of the trademark Super Luminova™

Jaeger Lecoultre presents the Reverso tribute minute repeater

Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

 

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

In fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

Case material: Pink Gold

Case dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm

Case thickness: 11.41 mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944, manually wound

Functions: Hours and Minutes on two dials, minute repeater

Power reserve: 35 hours

Water resistance: 30 m

Strap: Brown alligator

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

LES VOILES DE ST BARTH RICHARD MILLE

Pasando bruscamente de la serenidad al extremo, Les Voiles de St Barth Richard Mille siempre se ha distinguido como una cita vanguardista en la que la competitividad y la tecnología más rompedora se dan encuentro. Richard Mille ha participado desde sus inicios en 2010.
Edición limitada de 50 unidades.
Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

A lo largo de su primera década, la competición ha recibido a decenas de miles de regatistas y cerca de 500 embarcaciones llegadas de todos los rincones del mundo. Con un promedio de 80 tripulaciones compitiendo en 7 clases en cada edición, se ha impuesto rápidamente como uno de los platos fuertes de la temporada caribeña. La emocionante mezcla de condiciones extremas lo convierte en un evento auténticamente único.

RM 60-01 Cronógrafo automático Les Voiles de Saint Barth

CALIBRE RMAC2

Movimiento de cuerda automática con horas y minutos, contador de segundos situado a las 3, fecha de gran tamaño, mes, calendario anual, cronógrafo flyback con segundero central y temporizador de cuenta atrás de 60 minutos situado a las 9, totalizador de 24 horas situado a las 6, función UTC y rotor de geometría variable.

RESERVA DE MARCHA

Aproximadamente 50 horas (±10 %).
45 horas con el cronógrafo en funcionamiento. La duración real de la reserva de marcha dependerá del tiempo de utilización del cronógrafo.

PLATINA Y PUENTES DE TITANIO GRADO 5

Estos componentes, de titanio grado 5 con tratamiento PVD negro, otorgan gran solidez al conjunto y un acabado perfectamente plano a las superficies, cualidades esenciales para el perfecto funcionamiento del tren de engranajes.

La platina esqueletizada y los puentes han sido sometidos a largas y exigentes pruebas para comprobar su perfecta capacidad de resistencia.

CRONÓGRAFO FLYBACK

Gracias al pulsador situado entre las 4 y las 5 horas, es posible poner el cronógrafo a cero sin tener que detener el mecanismo. En un principio, esta función se desarrolló para pilotos, para que no perdieran tiempo (ni exactitud) al parar, poner a cero y volver a iniciar el cronógrafo al pasar por un punto de navegación.

CALENDARIO ANUAL

Semi instantáneo con ajuste automático de los meses de 30 o 31 días, la fecha de gran tamaño está situada en una hendidura horizontal perfilada a las 12 y el mes se sitúa entre las 4 y las 5 horas.

FUNCIÓN UTC

El RM 60-01 incluye una aguja UTC que puede emplearse como indicador de una segunda zona horaria o, en combinación con el sol y el bisel giratorio, para situar los puntos cardinales.

ROTOR DE GEOMETRÍA VARIABLE

El RM 60-01 emplea un sistema de geometría variable para optimizar el movimiento de armado del rotor.

Especificaciones del rotor
• Brazo de titanio grado 5
• Segmento de masa oscilante de oro blanco de 18 k
• Segmento de masa oscilante con 6 posibles posiciones ajustables mediante tornillos de titanio grado 5
• Alas de oro blanco de 18 k con alto contenido en paladio
• Rodamientos de bolas de cerámica
• Unidireccional: armado en sentido antihorario

Este diseño exclusivo Richard Mille permite adaptar de forma eficaz el armado del muelle real al nivel de actividad del usuario, en ambientes deportivos o no deportivos. Mediante el ajuste de la nervadura de seis posiciones es posible modificar la inercia del rotor para que el proceso de armado se acelere en caso de que la persona que lleve el reloj mueva el brazo con calma o se desacelere si realiza actividades deportivas.

Dongyu Zhou joins the OMEGA family


The world-famous Swiss watch brand welcomes award-winning Chinese actress Dongyu Zhou to its impressive roster of screen legends.

A winner of multiple domestic and foreign film awards, Dongyu Zhou is an accomplished actress capable of delivering convincing and critically acclaimed performances ranging in genres from crime thriller to romantic comedy.


After her outstanding 2010 debut in Zhang Yimou’s film Under the Hawthorn Tree, Dongyu starred in a string of successful films, including Soul Mate (2016), This Is Not What I Expected (2017), Us and Them (2018) and Better Days (2019).

Her many accolades include the Best Actress award at the 53rd Golden Horse Awards in 2016 for her impressive performance in Soul Mate, and best actress for Better Days at the 39th Hong Kong Film Awards and 33rd Golden Rooster Awards.

Dongyu Zhou is the youngest actress to have been honoured with the three most significant film accolades in the history of Chinese film, and OMEGA is thrilled to include her in its distinguished circle of stars, which includes George Clooney, Nicole Kidman, Eddie Redmayne and fellow award-winning Chinese actress Liu Shishi.

Clearly proud of the new partnership, OMEGA’s President and CEO Mr. Raynald Aeschlimann called Dongyu Zhou: “A phenomenal talent who embraces OMEGA’s spirit of reinvention and commitment to excellence. Hard working, gracious and original, she represents the best qualities of the emerging generation and we’re honoured to have her in the family”.

The latest star in OMEGA’s universe wears the brand’s 34 mm Constellation Small Seconds released earlier this year. The slender watches, in keeping with the recent 5th generation Constellation makeover, remain true to the collection’s iconic spirit, while also enhancing the design with extra diamonds and a number of unique details.

Speaking of her new role at OMEGA, Dongyu Zhou said:I am truly elated to be joining the OMEGA family. I have always felt that innovation and precision are at the heart of OMEGA, and I am beyond excited to grow with the OMEGA family in this collective pursuit of excellence as one of their brand ambassadors”.

Christie’s Watches Online: The New York Edition

A selection of highlights from our upcoming sale

Patek Philippe, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Platinum, Diamonds, Ref. 3990E

CIRCA: 1994
CASE MATERIAL: Platinum, Diamonds
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
MOVEMENT NO’:876.839
CASE NO’: 2.945.342
DIAL: Black, Diamonds
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Patek Philippe Platinum and Diamond Tang Buckle, An Additional White Diamond Patek Philippe Dial, A Patek Philippe Extract From the Archives Confirming Date of Sale: September 14th, 1994, Product Literature, Patek Philippe Service Box, Patek Philippe Presentation Box
$150,000-250,000


Patek Philippe, American Calendar Pocket Watch, 18K Yellow Gold, Ref. 725/4

CIRCA: 1969
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 46mm
MOVEMENT NO’: 931.257
CASE NO’: 327.503
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: American Calendar, Digital Display, Moonphases,
Subsidiary Seconds
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESORIES: A Patek Philippe Extract From the Archives Confirming
Date of Sale April 17th, 1973
$30,000-50,000


Patek Philippe, Retailed by Hausmann & Co., 18K Gold Wristwatch, Ref. 570, Formerly Owned by Andy Warhol

CIRCA:1954
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
DIAL: Silver
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: A Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of sale on June 20, 1955, Sotheby’s 1988 Jewelry and Watches Catalogs, featuring this watch as Lot 264 of the December section ‘The Andy Warhol Collection’
$45,000-95,000


Cartier, Crash, 18K Pink Gold, Ref. W1544251

CIRCA: 2003
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Pink Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 38mm X 23mm
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: 18k Pink Gold Cartier Deployant Buckle, Cartier Sales Receipt Dated December 31, 2003, A Cartier Valuation Report for insurance value Dated September 27, 20
$40,000-60,000


Rolex, Triple Calendar, Chronograph, Steel, Ref. 6036

CIRCA: 1963
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 36.5mm
SERIAL NO: 943969
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Day, Date, Month, Chronograph
CALIBER: 72C
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
$80,000-120,000


Breguet, 18K White Gold, Skeletonized, Tourbillion, Ref. 3355

CIRCA: 2010s
CASE MATERIAL: 18k White Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
DIAL: Skeletonized
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Skeletonized, Tourbillon
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: White Gold Tang Buckle
$30,000-50,000


Rolex, Chronograph, Steel, Ref. 6034

CIRCA: 1963
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 36.5mm
SERIAL: 907700
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 165mm Overall Length
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Chronograph
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
$20,000-40,000


Rolex, Sea Dweller, “Great White”, Steel, Ref. 1665

CIRCA: 1978 CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
SERIAL: 5410564
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 185mm Overall Length
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Date,
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Original Crystal Included
$18,000-24,000


Patek Philippe, Nautilus, Steel, Diamonds, Ref. 3800/1

CIRCA: 1996
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
MOVEMENT NO’: 3.021.860
CASE NO’:4.009.746
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 175mm Overall Length
DIAL: Black, Diamonds
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Date
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Patek Philippe Outer Box, Patek Philippe Presentation Box, A Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, Confirming Date of Sale February, 26th 1997
$30,000-50,000


Patek Philippe, Perpetual Caledar Chronograph, Yellow Gold, Ref. 5970J, Double Sealed

ψ This image is of a similar watch of the same model for display purposes only and is not the actual watch being offered for sale nor included in this lot. The endangered species strap is also shown for display purposes only and is not for sale. The actual watch for sale will be supplied with a calf leather strap.
CIRCA: 2008
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Moonphases
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: Yes
ACCESSORIES: 18k Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Buckle, Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Patek Philippe Presentation Box, Leather Folder, Product Literature
ψ Please note the endangered species strap is shown for display purposes only and is not for sale. Upon sale, this watch bag will be cut and the watch will be supplied to the buyer with a non CITES strap (not shown). For further information please refer to the Conditions of Sale.
$100,000-150,000

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.