Tag Archive for: Watchmaking

El #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard une la relojería de lujo suiza y la moda callejera japonesa al fusionar los elementos de cada universo, con los toques característicos de sus creadores. Esto es inmediatamente evidente en la esfera, donde la estética atemporal pero vanguardista de Franck Muller ha adquirido sensibilidades de estilo urbano. Una base de esfera blanca mate comienza estableciendo una estética de clave alta, sobre la cual se encuentran las manecillas negras, las marcas y los índices aplicados.

El aspecto monocromático de alto contraste se completa con una encantadora peculiaridad a las siete en punto. Aquí, Franck Muller ha situado el provocativo motivo Fxxking Rabbits de #FR2 en lugar de marcadores de hora, con el ojo rojo de un conejo como único punto de color en la esfera. En la oscuridad, el #FR2NCKMULLER Vanguard también ofrece un giro idiosincrásico. Super-Luminova se ha aplicado selectivamente de manera que las manecillas, los índices y el motivo gráfico del obelisco esqueletizado sobresalen de la esfera en ausencia de luz.

El diseño audaz y audaz se extiende al resto del reloj. Esto incluye la caja Vanguard en forma de tonel de Franck Muller, que se ha fabricado en un nuevo compuesto de fibra de vidrio y carbono, una novedad para la marca y que se reservará para el sudeste asiático, solo modelos exclusivos. Para crear el material ligero pero resistente, se combinan polvo de carbono y fibras de vidrio, antes de que la masa resultante se impregne con una resina adhesiva. Luego, la mezcla se hornea a 150 grados centígrados durante tres horas bajo 200 toneladas de presión, para finalmente producir un compuesto que luego se puede mecanizar en los componentes necesarios. Debido a las variaciones aleatorias en la forma en que se comprime la mezcla, cada caja de reloj ofrecerá un patrón único de estrías. El toque final aquí es la correa de nailon blanco, adornada con texto negro en un estilo tipográfico que resultará familiar para los aficionados a la moda callejera.

El trabajo de Franck Muller con #FR2 es un raro ejemplo de la colaboración del relojero suizo con marcas externas, que se ha limitado a un pequeño y selecto grupo de socios. “El fundador de #FR2, Ryo Ishikawa, no es solo una figura icónica en la escena del streetwear de Tokio”, comparte Sharon Lim, CEO de Franck Muller SEA. “Como la fuerza creativa detrás de Fxxking Rabbits, ha adoptado un enfoque multidisciplinario para las creaciones de su sello mientras mantiene un espíritu ferozmente independiente. Estos son valores en los que creemos y con los que nos identificamos en Franck Muller, lo que hace que esta exclusiva del sudeste asiático sea una colaboración natural. Por supuesto, el producto que hemos creado habla de eso”.

El #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard es una edición limitada de 800 piezas y está disponible en el sudeste asiático y Australia desde el 6 de enero de 2023.

Acerca de #FR2

#FR2, también conocido como Fxxking Rabbits, es una creación de Ryo Ishikawa, un anciano estadista en el mundo de la moda callejera japonesa, quizás mejor conocido por fundar la marca de moda Vanquish. Tras su establecimiento en 2014, #FR2 rápidamente atrajo seguidores con su característico conejo y los motivos “Fumar mata”, así como con las audaces impresiones fotográficas de sus productos. En el camino, Ishikawa también ha diferenciado a la marca con imágenes de campaña provocativas, que él personalmente tomó como lentes, y un enfoque irónico de la moda. Desde sudaderas con capucha y cámaras desechables dispensadoras de caramelos, la marca ofrece una gama ecléctica de prendas y objetos de arte que posiblemente sean los más íntimos de Ishikawa hasta el momento.

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle complete calendar openface: a contemporary aesthetic for a model reflecting Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

  • A new openworked sapphire face for the Traditionnelle complete calendar watch, interpreted through two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold
  • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with triple calendar and precision moon phase
  • A highly contemporary aesthetic for these timepieces, heirs to Geneva’s grand 18th century watchmaking tradition

Geneva,- Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The openworked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.

Revisiting the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking

Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva’s watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCL/2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.

Airy construction

The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers – embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment – highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.

The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.

Calibre 2460 QCL/2

Beating at the heart of these two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, it beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.

———————————————————-

Sum-up

The two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watches in white and pink gold combine the classic attributes of the collection with an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The dial is made of sapphire crystal opening onto the movement featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC galvanic treatment. This total transparency on both sides of the watch highlights the technical nature of its horological complications. Equipped with a self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/2, these two 41 mm models provide a complete calendar display complemented by age of the moon and precision moon phase indications. The day and month are shown through central dial apertures below the 12 o’clock hour-marker, while the date is indicated on the periphery by a central hand. Already available in rose and white gold in a more classic interpretation with a solid dial, the two new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface versions are paired with a grey alligator leather strap.


TECHNICAL DATA

Traditionnelle complete calendar openface

References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654

Calibre
2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Assembled in three parts:

  • Slate grey guilloche upper part
  • Slate grey opaline flange
  • Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers

18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Watches and Wonders Geneva | Nearly 40 watchmaking Maisons to exhibit at the physical Salon in 2022

After two entirely digital editions, the key watchmaking industry event is confirmed to take place in Geneva both in a physical format – in the halls of Palexpo – and digitally, via the watchandwonders.com platform. Nearly 40 watch and jewellery brands will gather at this watchmaking summit for the first time over 7 days – from 30 March to 5 April 2022.

The next Watches and Wonders Geneva, which is eagerly awaited after two years of being entirely online, is already shaping up for 2022. More than a trade show, this watchmaking summit will bring together the main industry players, with the arrival of new brands such as Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith from the LVMH Group, Grand Seiko, Oris and the jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels who is making its return to the Salon.

 

Reputed brands such as Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor will also be exhibiting for the first time in Geneva. Not to mention other major Maisons, such as Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin, who have been regulars for many years.

All these players will vibrate to the rhythm of a thrilling watch-industry week and will be showcased in one single setting at Palexpo. The Carré des Horlogers will welcome fifteen independent designer-craftsmen and women at the centre of the exhibition.

A hybrid, flexible concept.

After proving its agility over the last two events, Watches and Wonders Geneva is moving to a hybrid format so that visitors can above all have a face-to-face experience but also participate on line, depending on the changing context of the pandemic.

Everything has been thought through and organised to ensure that the product presentations, new product launches, keynotes, panel discussions and conferences be followed in Geneva by visitors onsite, but also, for those who are unable to travel, remotely, via the www.watchesandwonders.com platform. All the content will be available online, live or in replay.

But nothing can ever replace in-person experience. Industry players have clearly stated their desire to get together around the products. They want their guests to be able to see and touch the exceptional pieces, to discuss, debate and interact on site.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 promises once again to be a great success but also a wonderful reunion. Whether in Geneva or elsewhere in the world, make a date for this leading watchmaking summit, from 30 March to 5 April 2022!

EXHIBITING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER |

CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS | CZAPEK | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

More information at watchesandwonders.com